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What's with the rudeness? You don't like the answers use Google, Facebook etc. makes me question what research you did in the first place regarding these engines. Alternatively, take it to a garage for a proper diagnosis like every car owner who isn't mechanically minded has to do.

Well, I need someone who is technically literate Steve Q! I asked highly technical questions and was hoping for highly technical responses. Unfortunately, I don't think this forum is up to it. Being passionate about Audis is all very well but I think it's better to think of them just as glorified VWs, warts and all.

Checked the fuses - the car was drawing 8amps without the engine on. Systematically going through the fuses, here were the issues; Slot 25 passenger side - Telephone. Was drawing around 4-5 amps even though the car has no phone 🙂 Slot 21 driver's side - blank but has a 5 amp fuse in it, drawing around 1 amp. Any idea what this is? Slot 39 driver's side - Door control front right. Not really an issue, the door was open to check the fuses. Once I've received the MMI mechanism and fit it to the car, I'll check again. But either way, this is a huge difference already. Let's see how it goes 🙂

Changed o2 sensor (bank1 sensor 2 OBD reading says not receiving data ) still getting same warning light any ideas

Bless ya, please keep us posted on how you get on

I've tried to help you, and I haven't been negative just advised you. I'd missed the part about no smoke or smell. With no smoke or smell it could still be a leak. I find you're not being particularly nice when I've tried to help you. We're passionate about the Audi brand and are enthusiasts but not all mechanics! I did some Googling for you which is where my advice has come from. As I've never used any of the products you have are mentioning I can't advise. Please note as moderators we are all volunteers and try to help in our spare time.

Ah right, might be worth not fitting one just in case it melts.

Keep us posted on how you get on

Yea you'll need additional modules etc to make it work.

Keep us posted on how you get on

Have you progressed this matter Martin?

regarding the engine cover, it appears, that Audi used to fit them to models with a petrol engine,but had some problems with the covers melting, due to the heat generated by the turbo, so they stopped fitting them, (my engine has only 3 out of 4 fixing points for the cover,) I have seen them on E Bay etc, but won't bother, as I don't want any problems. Brian.

So diagnostic showed an issue with the DPF unit the dealer arranged for this to be replaced at no cost to me I had a chat with the mechanic who showed me the old unit explained how it works and said it took him an age to remove due to the build up of hardened residue so problem solved for P2002 let’s hope I have no more problems

Thanks Steve, I’ve looked through the MMI but can’t seem to locate the setting, guessing it may be a no which is a surprise…

I'll try to keep on eye on that, hopefully, I just bought this car and I didn't noticed anything like that before

I already said I'd give feedback on my success or failure! I thought this dedicated forum would have knowledgeable people like some American forums. I was expecting technical knowledge. For example, I joined a Honda forum with very detailed questions about the innards of the carbs on my son's CB600 F3. I got incredibly helpful replies from people that obviously got their hands dirty. I've a lifelong interest in bikes and cars and was doing all my own servicing including some engine rebuilds of both bikes and cars until I got too old. I don't think a reply saying "you shouldn't have bought it" is of any use to man nor beast. I do, of course, understand and to some extent sympathise with the context but it was best left unsaid. That's the sort of useless and indeed harmful comment you should be moderating in my view.

So, bizarrely the probelm appears to have sorted itself out. However, I have managed to find all the reset button movements for the car which is a plus!

Hello Andy, I’ve distanced myself from this thread, but I’m sorry to hear that answers to date have not been of any help. I/we don’t know what your particular discipline is in in the sphere of Chartered Engineer, but to me, the logic seems to point that you went into purchasing this vehicle, in knowledge that it was burning oil, and it would be reasonable to expect that the seller would ‘under estimate’ the extent. I don’t like to assume anything, but we just hope that it was ‘bought cheap’. What I am unsure of, what was the extent of your knowledge on the issue before ( in caps) you bought it. If it was as you write now, then you entered into the purchase with your eyes wide open - unlike other poor unfortunates on this site - and if so, did you do so on the basis of placing your faith in sorting this out, via. the course of action you now intend to carryout? Would I be on the right line by now thinking that any contra opinion is seen as unhelpful, and what you were hoping for from here was ‘ Sounds a great idea Andy’. Now whether you are amenable to this suggestion, or not, but what would be great would be if you were to add to our knowledge bank, and actually try your procedure - and most important to others on here - report back on the subsequent figures regarding the reduction in the vehicle’s oil consumption. Would you be prepared to do that for us Andy? Kind regards, Gareth.

Steve Q: I'd already covered these in my post: no smoke, no smell, no leaks. Steve Q and cliffcoggin. I appreciate your concerns to save me wasting my money on snake oil products but there is a world of difference to risk spending tens of pounds for trying out gum-loosening additives and knowing there will be thousands of pounds to rebuild the engine. My view is simply that it sounds logical and it's worth a try. I've seen many photos of the gummed up oil pasages in Audi piston rings of that particular 2 year period. The drain holes were simply too fine and, in fact, an English manufacturer supplies a better design of rings compatible with those pistons. In an effort to reduce engine friction and hence increase fuel efficiency, Audi had also reduced the spring strength. Ie the pistons were simply easier to slide up and down but at what later cost! My post was simply asking whether others in UK had similar experience and could help me. Neither of your answers was of any help. I don't know if either of you are aware but the internet is full of accounts of successes (and some failures) with these methods of un-gumming oil control rings on a variety of engines. It's not just the Audi tfsi that suffers: Kia, Toyota and Volvo 5 cylinder turbo have also been mentioned. There are dozens of YouTube videos. Maybe Americans are more open minded or are they all liars? I've pasted in just one comment that I found on an American Audi forum: "I now have 82,000 miles, I tried the Liqi Moly flush 2 times as well as running some marvel mystery oil but nothing slowed down the oil burn, it got as bad as 1 quart in 550 miles. I finally tried the piston soak method with Berryman B12 last week and it worked!!! 700 miles so far and only a small change on the dipstick level." I'll keep you posted on my success or failure.

Thanks Steve. The Cabriolet has an integrated zip which should make the process a little more straightforward, although I’ve heard that lining up the teeth of the zip can be a nightmare! The replacement window comes with an adhesive strip, but I’m also doing to use a speedy stitche awl to use the original stitching holes to re sew it too. For extra measure I may also use a sealant on the zip teeth themselves too. Leave it with me and I’ll try and document the process.

I wonder if it's similar to the golf mk,4 etc where you'd need the correct stalk and wiring harness. I'd recommend buying the parts from the US if you know yiu can definitely get them there. I'm surprised UK cars didn't have it.

Please keep us posted on how you get on. I did this post a few years ago for TT convertible which might help:

Standard MMI and screen. I've ordered the whole mechanism secondhand, when it arrives, I'll fit it back to original and see if that helps. No battery issues, everything looks good if I drive it. Battery charges fine and will work fine all day, it's always the next morning that it struggles to start.

You definitely need a diagnostic check to see if any fault codes flag up

Looks like StandFree has it, I will see if I can return my stock item and upgrade.