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Hello. I have an Audi 80 from 1994. I believe the model is b4 8C2. Its a 2.0l gasoline automatic. I have been trying to figure out the problem in it for a while now. Firstly it only used to unlock all the doors from the trunk and if you used other doors it would set off the alarm, until one day when the boot also did the same. Ever since it has no working central locking and does not shut off the alarm and immobilizer. The pump for the central locking has been changed and fully cut wires from the boot have been fixed. I have tried to find the immobilizer but have not yet found it. Also i have followed the wires for the pump but they seem to be fine. Neither pump seems to be running but the wiring does have voltage coming in. I have checked all the fuzes in the fuze box and tested varieties of fuses according to different diagrams. Thank you.

Hi guys Wonder if you have any suggestions., I have a 20 foot X 10 parking area with 2 paving stone runways to the side of my home great But to this side is a BIG SILVER BIRCH tree with a Conservation order on it. It is dripping lots of sap on the A5 CVT and the tree can't be altered. In front of my home leading to a garage is another drive maybe 15 feet I went to park the A5 but as I pull on the the drive before I get to the garage door the rear wheels on on the road level at the Dropped Curb, Front wheels are on the drive So the A5 thinks its on a hill and won't just Creep. At that point I am maybe 2 -3 feet off the Garage door. I start to to try a bit right pedal but i feel nerrvious i am just going to go into the garage door a BIT FAST rather than creep. Can i fiddle on the Brake button its a bit of a pain yet. I have parked normal Auro car on this drive but they did not know the were on a hill. Any ideas is it just right foot action ? Johnnym

maybe something in here!??? ...

What was the outcome ? as i stated above , it has been fine for over 12 months but ive noticed the (very) occasional creak since the hotter weather what did they replace & did they say what was causing the noise? They changed the parts i supplied above...under my self diagnosis of the issue.

But I will respond Bob. I take your comments on board, and in my book, it’s very, very rare the anyone’s background or abilities to be enquired about, or indeed needed to be qualified in any way. In your case, I’m left unsure as to why your competence led you to enquire in the first place, and it’s equally confusing to see what has been said that represents a personal criticism, but if your logic points it to be, then so be it, in your mind. Good luck with it. Regards, Gareth. I

Hello Nigel, What would be your route to acquiring a beige carpet for the car, if you could find a colour code? Finding a carpet in useable condition for a 30 year old car would be a bit of an ask - in my opinion. Getting one made and moulded would likely cost 2 arms and 2 legs. Alternative:-why not fit tailored beige overmats over your black carpet? You should find plenty of sellers on EBay offering variations on carpet quality and edge sewing choices. Please let us know what you think Nigel. Kind regards, Gareth.

I wasn't going to comment at this point as I see nothing good to comment on but as you have specifically pushed for a reply I will give you one. I am a fully qualified radio electronic maintainer, now retired, with many years experience maintaining, repairing and altering equipment both mechanical and electronic. I virtually built my first vehicle from scrap and in the early days spent many hours under the bonnet or the whole vehicle servicing, repairing and altering to keep it on the road. No-one asked me for my credentials and I saw no reason in supplying them. I have a garage with an electric door that opens from a fob just throwing about in the drink wells of the car, it would be so much neater to have a dedicated button on the dashboard to do this. I have already dismantled the fob and added two wires into the switch that could be plugged into a hidden socket under the dashboard connected to one of the switches and have absolutely no qualms about adding a pair of wires on a socket to do this. You and your co-commenters didn't ask about my ability before criticising my efforts. I looked at the question again and couldn't find the part that says "don't help me just criticise my efforts". I do feel that had you been around in the early days of man we would still be hunter gatherers without even the use of the wheel and that is a world I don't wish to return to so If you don't mind I will not get involved in criticisms of people who are trying to improve the world and there own part in it. Please don't bother commenting unless it is to offer assistance with my original question as I am sure this answer will be criticised just as much, remember you called for a reply.

Sorry couldn't find a way to edit this post. Not sure what this pipe is coming from under the air intake. The far end is not connected to anything. Is it suppose to be like that. Have looked a lot on line but can't get an answer. Thanks.

Hi can't find any good set ups . Pictures on some of the forums are a little vague. I have the 2.7T

Yes, it does have an SD slot, but from what I've seen on YouTube the car it should have a USB port as well, which my car doesn't.

Hi folks i hope someone can help . I have a 2014 Audi a6 c7 sline ultra automatic intermitting stalling when about to take off and also when driving the car also has intermitting jerking as if for a split second fuel was cut. sometimes it can be ok for a week or so then other times it can happed 2 to 3 times a day regards jerk when driving the stalling when taking off happens only about once a week or fortnight. I have vcds and have run scans and no fault codes anywhere I have seen in previous post years ago of a fuel rail sensor issue but there are two sensors on the rail i did change the front one part No 04L 906 054 but it was 2nd hand maybe i should off bought new or maybe i got the wrong fuel rail sensor and that it is the other sensor on the end of the rail also I have start/ stop disabled so that cannot be the cause. Can someone help as I'm at my wits end as when in traffic at lights and about to take off the car cuts out i have to then put it in park and press the start button sometimes maybe twice. I dread that someone will drive int the back off me.

did you ever get the fix?

I have have a 1990s Cabriolet with black carpets but I fancy some original beige carpets were changed. I've no details of the original car's spec but could there be any code number on any chassis plate which tells me what colour original carpets were? Regards Nigel

2008 a3 Quattro s line I am already aware that the inlet manifold needs a change and so I am pretty sure this is the cause of my issue - however just to be sure I thought I’d ask When reversing after a long drive, I will stop the car infront of my drive and put it into reverse. I then notice that my revs are super high before the car starts to move backwards and it jitters - around 4.5rpm approx. Could this be the manifold? (Getting changed sometime next week) or some other issue? Thanks

If you can hear the solenoids then it would suggest your switch is working fine. My first step would be to check the level of the hydraulic fluid in the convertible roof motor pump. If you’ve not done that before it’s in the boot on lower right hand side. You’ll need to remove the interior boot trim to get to it. Alternatively, perhaps the handbrake switch is defective / stuck?

Hi I'm getting close to buying a new 2025 A3 1.5 TFSI 35 Black Edition Sportback. I'm in the UK. It will replace a 10 year old Ford Focus. Can anyone help me out with a few questions I have? 1) I don't really like all the data they collect via the in car eSIM (similar with any new car these days). I guess there's not much I can do about it? 2) I don't plan on using any apps, connecting smartphones, paying for services first 3 years or after. Is that going to cause me issues? 3) Is there any generally known common things with this vehicle I should consider before buying, or when checking the new car when it's ready? Many thanks!

What was the outcome ?, what did they replace & did they say what was causing the noise?

Any comments so far Bob?

Thanks

Hiya folks…. Apologies to reply to, and drag back up to the top an old thread. I’ve not seen any other threads like this (but it has been a long week!!) is there a way around this? Code it out or similar? Every trip for almost two years now I have to change from efficiency drive mode to something else and back again to fully get efficiency mode gearbox (with intelligent free wheel etc…. I’ve poked around in VCDS but I’m very new to it. I’ve done basic settings and addressing of some heater flaps and I felt very smug at achieving that much 😂

Just purchased my 2021 E-Tron 50 and my AC has the same behaviour. It comes on initially and then stops working after a minute or so. I have a 60 day Arnold Clark warranty and i actually purchased an Audi extended warranty that starts in June too. Seems to be a pretty common fault unfortunately and bad timing with the current weather :-(

Driving the car back on a 12 mile round trip and the ‘checking engine light” came on. The car is a 3 yo A6 C8 40 TDi with 15,000 miles on the clock.Any ideas on what to check first? Is this a sensor fault or soot build-up? Thanks in advance for any gen

Hi, would someone please help me out with correct settings for Bluetooth in the green menu, as I stated in a previous post I went a bit giddy in the green menu last week and everything is now either not working or blacked out. The Bluetooth simply isn’t working so some help would be very much appreciated.

So... Camshaft magnets done, car insured again, idles smooth and knocking noise gone quiet Gone to take car into a friend's bodyshop (5 mile drive) Knocking nose starts again just down the road from bodyshop and starts running rough, sounds almost like metal on metal, plugged diagnostic in and cylinder 4 misfire. Compression test shows (from 1 to 4) 175 - 175 - 175 - 150. Looks like im going to need a new engine at this rate 🤔 🙃

as i posted ...above