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Most wiring for hatchback/coupe boot lids will enter the car near the hinge. Usually a rubber grommet, and not unheard of to have a break or some other anomaly there, so worth investigating. Regards the alarm horn, I’ll bet it had a failed rechargeable Ni-Cd battery in it and the previous owner stripped it out. More details here. https://www.ttforum.co.uk/threads/how-to-mk1-alarm-siren-fix.73315/ Getting the car connected to VCDS would help. If you’re chasing wiring diagrams, consider subscribing to ErWIN. You can buy access for a day and download or print what you need. https://audi.erwin-store.com/erwin/showHome.do

UPDATE… So. Having tried to zip in the replacement plastic window a few times I have concluded that the canvass of the soft top has contracted over time and so the zip of the replacement will never be long enough to mate to it properly. There’s not much in it, but enough to make me think I’ll have to abandon the idea The remaining low cost option would be to forget about the zip then glue and pin the plastic in place before sewing it in myself after the glue dried. Failing that, it’ll be off to the pros to replace the whole hood. I guess it is 26 years old!

Hi Gareth, Apologies for the longish break from comms but life etc got in the way. The Jaguar(s): 2 x Series 3 V12 Sovereigns...one 1985 and the other 1988. 1988 is undergoing one of those ongoing renovations we all get into eventually that is turning into a long job. Hence just acquired the 1985 as a "light restoration" (to quote the advert) with a severe misfire to get back into "Jaguars on the road" a bit sooner. Meantime back to my friend's Audi TT. We got nowhere with the request to DVLA for info. Apparently wanting to rebuild your car's history isn't a good enough reason anymore. When he can he's still driving it around and it's running well (so it pains him to know he will be selling it soon). We're now back on ironing out remaining problems and one of which is it has a bad habit of flattening its battery if left standing for a couple of days. Some background: We have measured the parasitic current drain with the car standing idle and it is around 0.7 Amps continuous. That 0.7 Amp is flowing down the first red wire (the one next to the black wire) running from the battery distribution buss bar. On locking the car with the plip the alarm sequence does not complete: the doors lock but the sidelights do not flash and the red LED lights in the doors do not become active. We have discovered that some previous owner has removed the alarm sounder. The instrument display shows the bootlid as continuously open, even though it is locked. Could that be why the alarm cannot complete its cycle and hence the electrics never go "quiescent" so the heavy parasitic drain remains to draw down the battery? We have checked out the bootlock microswitch after spending an inordinate amount of time trying to find it and its associated cable. Thanks Audi for a superb way of hiding the switch behind the lock and between it and the car body plus making test access to it almost impossible without demounting the lock first. The microswitch changes state when the locking solenoid is operated. This produces no change on the instrument panel, it still shows bootlid open all the time. Removing the cable so the switch is effectively open circuit produces no change in the display. Linking together the pins on the cable end , so it thinks the switch is closed, produces no change in the display! We are now into unknown territory as it looks like the cable is defective somewhere between the end we can see and wherever it goes. Does anyone have any info on the routing of this cable and where it ends up? This flattening the battery problem is giving my friend a lot of grief (something he doesn't need right now) and spoiling an otherwise nice car. Can anyone offer any help/ideas?

Hi all, I’ve got a 2015 Audi A5 with a recurring issue related to the power steering control module (J500). The fault is U140A00 – Terminal 30 open circuit, and it disables the power steering when it happens. It's happened twice now under very specific circumstances where I've rode the clutch for maybe a second longer than I should have, before selecting third gear. The engine cuts outs mimicking a stall, and then the power steering is gone until a garage resets the fault. Audi performed an initial repair for £900, replacing some of the wiring. They reset the fault using their diagnostic tool (probably ODIS), and the steering worked fine afterwards — but the fault returned a week later, and they now want £3,500 to replace the steering rack, which I’m not convinced is necessary. If the steering functions perfectly once the fault is cleared, that suggests the issue is superficial — possibly a false positive or transient electrical glitch rather than mechanical failure. They've reset the fault again, and all is currently working, but it will fail again. My goal is to buy a reliable OBD2 device that can clear this fault when it arises, ideally one that can access the J500 module directly and possibly run some diagnostics too. Has anyone successfully used a consumer-level tool (OBD11, VCDS, Carista, etc.) to clear this specific fault? Would love to know: Which device you used If it could access the J500 module / steering assist If it actually cleared the U140A fault (and didn’t just read it) Thanks in advance! For anyone interested, this is Audi's diagnostics report: SYS01_x_1_0715_21_GW_Info_00000 Functional checks (2) Function test 3: SYS_8T_45_____1_0618_21_J500_FSP_00021 Time required (TU): 0.3 Result: X Time required (TU): 0.3 ( 2025-04-30 07:54:32 - 2025-04-30 07:54:41 ) Mouse clicks: 2 Keyboard entries: 0 Test step: Preparation steps Test step: Read fault memory Action: Message In the ABS control unit -J104 fault 01309 Power steering control unit / Read fault memory is stored. Test step: Read fault memory Action: Message Faults are entered in the fault memory of the Power steering control unit -J500. For further fault treatment work through the test plan. Test step: Caster Action: Message End of test. Function test 4: SPG_8K_48_____1_0511_SPGSVERSORGUNG_KL_30_A4_A5_00021 Time required (TU): 3.1 Result: OK Time required (TU): 3.1 ( 2025-04-30 07:54:51 - 2025-04-30 07:56:24 ) Mouse clicks: 14 Keyboard entries: 0 Test step: Preparation steps Test step: Brief description of test Action: Message Using this test program, you can check the following component/system: Terminal 30 Required test equipment: Possibly VAG 1594/13 CLAMP ON TEST PROBES from VAG 1594 A Connector Test Kit. Road test if necessary Test step: DTC memory Action: Message The DTC memory of the Power Steering Control Module -J500- stores the malfunction U140A00 Terminal 30 open circuit . Function call: jxxx_xx_1_0416_21_DTCs_pruefen_00000 Test step: DTC memory Test step: Check fuse Action: Selection Was the fuse for terminal 30 faulty and was it replaced? Input: No Test step: Check harness connector/wire 1 Action: Message - Check harness connector of Power Steering Control Module -J500-. - Check the connector for: Correct seating/loose contact; Bent and pushed-in pins; Widened connector terminals; Water entry, contact corrosion; Crushing, kinking and abrasion of the connected wiring. Action: Selection Is there a malfunction? Input: No Action: Selection - Check Ground (GND) connections of steering according to wiring diagram. - Check wiring for short circuit to ground. Is the wiring OK? Input: Yes Action: Message The wiring and harness connectors are OK. Control unit communication (UDS) Control unit: Power steering (LL_SteerAssisUDS) Job status: OKAY Service: SinglJob_ChangDiagnSessi Request parameters: Response parameters: Function call: j500_8R_48_____3_0111_21_fsp_loeschen_00021 Test step: Mode change Control unit communication (UDS) Control unit: Power steering (LL_SteerAssisUDS) Job status: OKAY Service: SinglJob_ChangDiagnSessi Request parameters: Response parameters: Test step: Read DTC memory Action: Message Next, the DTC memory of the Power Steering Control Module -J500- will be checked again. Action: Message DTC memory is being checked. Please wait Control unit communication (UDS) Control unit: Power steering (LL_SteerAssisUDS) Job status: OKAY Service: SinglJob_ReadAllDTCFreezFrame Request parameters: Response parameters: Control unit communication (UDS) Control unit: Power steering (LL_SteerAssisUDS) Job status: OKAY Service: SinglJob_ReadAllDTCFreezFrame Request parameters: Response parameters: Action: Message The DTC U140A00 Terminal 30, open circuit is not stored in the DTC memory of the Power Steering Control Module -J500-. Test step: Road test Action: Message To check the function, perform a road test while observing the following instructions. - Drive off-road if possible.

The only thing I have had similar was that the cooling system was blocked on a 2017 passat, it ended up being the silika bag in the coolant bottle had burst, it blocked the matrix and the cooling system.

Untill the new wheels arrive, I have put the old ones back on. I am undecided on the color, but the new wheels are bronze so the black calipers may look OK.

I think I’ve fixed it! I noticed that the option to deactivate the digital key in the MMI settings was greyed out (I guess because there was no digital key setup). So I re-added the digital key to my phone and was then able to deactivate it in the MMI. So now, whilst I now have the digital key in my iPhone’s wallet, it doesn’t work by me just walking up to the car and opening the door. And also, once in the car, I am no longer getting the message to set up a digital key.

Hello Martin, It wouldn’t surprise me that there isn’t, but well worth passing it passed your selling dealer for confirmation or refuting. Perhaps you could update us on how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

I’ve recently purchased the Edition 1 version of the A5 Avant, having previously had an A6 Avant, and I love it! I originally set up the digital key on my phone, but have since removed it - the thought of someone stealing my phone and then being able to just walk up to my car and drive it away didn’t appeal to me. Anyway, I also use a crooklock, so will need to carry my key around in order to unlock it. Since removing the key from my phone, every time I drive the car, there is a message on the MMI, with a mortarboard hat at the start, telling me to activate the digital key. I don’t want to, but can’t find any way of turning off this message! Any ideas? Thanks

Hello Dave, Worth placing a wanted advert in magazines such as Classic Car Weekly and similar publications. Also registering your want on on line car breaker websites such as Partsfinder - there are more. Kind regards, Gareth.

Can anyone help - my A4 Avant 2016 is blowing cold air in footwells but warm through all other vents! surly it cant be the heater matrix as this would have cold air in all vents? Any suggestions? Thanks

Could you post some more pics from other angles please Tom.

Jumps out of gear and "Gearbox Malfunction" appears on dash. Sometimes works for a little while before this happens. Scanned with VCDS and I am getting 20888 - Pressure Control Solenoid 1 - P0748 error. I have replaced the ATF, motor, filters and all the solenoids. Does anyone have any experience with these.. could the TCU be faulty or is there another hardware element within the ATU which could be at fault. -- VCDS OUTPUT -- Address 02: Auto Trans Labels: 0CJ-927-156.clb Control Module Part Number: 4G0 927 153 L HW: 0CK 927 156 Q Component and/or Version: 0CK 20TDI RdW H01 0002 Software Coding: 100001 Work Shop Code: WSC 02391 785 00200 ASAM Dataset: EV_TCMDL382021 002014 (AU57) ROD: EV_TCMDL382021_AU57.rod VCID: 323AC2AFE4A6AE7A99F-8066 1 Fault Found: 20888 - Pressure Control Solenoid 1 P0748 00 [10101111] - Electrical Malfunction MIL ON - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear Freeze Frame: Fault Priority: 1 Fault Frequency: 8 Mileage: 332432 km Date: 2000.00.00 Time: 00:00:00 Engine RPM: 0 /min Driving position: d ATF temperature: 14 ∞C Transmission output speed: 0 /min Voltage terminal 30: 12.7 V Engine torque: 0 Nm selected gear: N Ctrl. mod.: operating condition: regular operation Auxiliary pump for transmission: requesting function: Fill hydraulic press. accum. Auxiliary hydraulic pump for transmission oil: current: 4 A Oil pressure reservoir: pressure: 0.7 bar Pressure of clutch 1: actual value: 0.0 bar Pressure of clutch 2: actual value: 0.0 bar Clutch status: New Unlearning counter according OBD: 40 Occurrence_counter_over_length_of_life: 206 -- Thanks!!

Hi Due to the fact that the radio did not fit I have sent it back, so can't really say about the sound quality. Sorry.

I think sometimes you have to get a fascia adaptor to get a good fit. I'm hunting one for a 2003 A6 as I really fancy a modern head unit but don't want it to look like it was fitted by a five year old. How are you finding the head unit, are they as good as they look?

Any good? HEIZUNGSGEBLÄSE GEBLÄSEMOTOR INNENRAUMGEBLÄSE MAXGEAR 57-0010 A FÜR AUDI 100 | eBay UK

The porsche calipers fit good, the front wheels have been ordered. The only issue is that I have had to fit the left on the right and right on the left, due to them coming from a porsche which had them at the front of the hub carrier.

Hello there, I owned an A class 250e from 2021 which I later on swapped for the A3 45 TFSIe and both made this exact same noise. Both were used cars when I bought them but my service car at work is a 330e from 2024 brand new and it started making the exact same noise after a couple of months. It must be debris that get into the breaking pads. If you clean the breaking pads the noise will stop for a while but it will eventually come back. I drive all the cars on EV mode most of the time but if I turn the engine on its barely noticable.

Hi all, I’ve got a weird one. My locking confirmation via horn doesn’t work, the option is enabled properly on the dash but it just doesn’t want to work. It hasn’t worked since I got the car (February) but I do really want this feature haha. I’ve seen a few things about coding it in via vcds, but since this option is already displayed in my dash I shouldn’t need to bother with that right? The possible clues I have is my alarm siren doesn’t work (has been replaced in an attempt to fix it, but since the confirmation is via horn it shouldnt affect it?) and the rear doors have that age old vag problem where they dont open from the outside after unlocking the car, but opening from the inside and then shutting the door will allow you to open it from the outside until the next time you lock it. Really hoping someone can hit the nail with this one!

Hi everyone, I've got a lovely old Audi 100 Quattro 2.8E from 1994. Sadly the bearings have gone in the interior blower, leading to horrible noises any time I try to use the climate control. I tried to source a replacement part, but the one that was sent has a different mounting to what's in my car. I can see one number on the old blower, but web searches don't seem to find anything for it: 3135102138 I ordered one of these from autodoc.co.uk: 2669I0008 RIDEX Interior Blower for vehicles with/without air conditioning, for left-hand drive vehicles for AUDI 100, A6 | AUTODOC price and review but it doesn't fit - on my original blower (see "old fan side" and "old fan back") the electrical connection is off to one side, whereas on the RIDEX one I was sent it's in the centre (see "ridex fan"). Does anyone have any ideas about how to track down the correct model? I've tried using OEM searches such as Blower Motor & Fan for 1994 Audi 100 Quattro | OEM Parts Online - that suggests I should be looking for part 4A0-959-101-A - but that seems to take me to things similar to the RIDEX blower that doesn't fit. Any clues welcome... Tom

Hello guys my 25 Audi a6 40 TDi ( C8.5 ) has just done 4500 miles and the oil low message has popped up . is this one from Costco compatible with my engine ? Thanks in advance !

Thanks for this. Seems like it's the only option to get at the bolts behind the hub!

Thanks for the reply, I'll give it a go if can't find a drain somewhere

Pretty sure you'll need to undo drive shaft bolt and remove lower balljoint so you can withdraw driveshaft and CV from hub to see. A wobble impact triple square is handy. See videos for Dave Sterl on YouTube. He's done A4, so can't see A3 being different. You'll need a new driveshaft bolt, and torque with wheel off the ground. Bearing wise, F.A.G. every time. Make sure hub face is spotless before fitting. Wire brush attachment on a drill, that sort of thing.