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Thank you so much for the suggestion. The oil cooler turned up (ordered from Autodoc for £38 with gasket) and was fitted a few days ago. The oil cooler gasket was also replaced and the oil filter housing gasket was wrecked and botched with silicone before. This was also replaced. Also a new brown low oil pressure sensor from febi bilstein at the same time, to replace the official Audi one, although the last one was changed recently too, thought I may aswell do that. Had a few spirited drives to try get the warning up again, but nothing so far! I'm going to mark this as a solution for now and if it somehow happens again, I will update this thread. As things stand the oil cooler and gaskets seem to have done the trick. My greatest appreciation to Cliff for this suggestion, thank you so much. I'd love to buy you a drink sir!

Hello there, I'm in the process of trying to find an Audi A4 B9 to buy and have a few trim related questions. A little background. I'd like a upgraded sound system, and quietness (to enjoy the sound system) is high on my priorities. Nice to have are leather seats and Android Auto. Budget will only really stretch to an older model: 2016-2018. I've found an SE with a B&O 3d sound system as part of a Comfort and Sound Pack 1) Are a subwoofer and a spare tyre mutually exclusive (i.e can you have both or is it an either/or scenario)? 2) if I get a basic (SE) trim, apart from the seats and suspension and styling are there any structural differences to the Sport/S-line? Especially as regards sound proofing 3) If I got some S-line seats (I've seen some on eBay) could I fit them into an SE 4) I believe I can get Android Auto on an older B9 with a retrofit kit. Does anyone have any experience? https://integratedautomotive.co.uk/product/audi-mib1-mib2-mmi-retrofit-carplay-and-android-auto-kit/ 5) What else does the Comfort And Sound Pack include apart from the sound system Thanks in advance Phil

Hi, I did not have the chance to get my injector replaced yet. I need the car almost every day of the week and it's very difficult to find time for this. I have an appointment for the 26th of May to finally get this done. I also have the exact same condition as described by you. A very noticeable clicking/tapping noise when the engine is cold which then goes away almost completely when the engine warms up. If the car idles for a longer period, the tapping comes back. The engine stutter is still happening from time to time. Some days it's better, some days it's worse. Literally 2 hours ago I came back from the 4th mechanic (break pads needed changing) and he also listened to the noise and confirmed it's the 5th cylinder injector - driver side, middle cylinder. I purchased the new injector last week and the only thing remaining now is to get it installed by someone. We checked the real time values of the return fuel and this injector had almost double the values of the collective baseline at 50+ mg/h I'll provide an update after I get this done.

I need help, I can't find the amplifier, it's neither in the trunk on the left side or under the front seats, I don't know anymore. I have a basic setup, I bought Bose speakers without an amplifier, the right door has stopped working, I want to fix it and the first thing I wanted to do was to check the amplifier, but I can't find it. Does anyone know if I even have one there? Thank you for any help.

Hello I strongly recommend not to buy this car. I had alot of sleep less nights because of this problem. Im Lucky i traded mine in for a Passat Bitdi which is similar performance with a stage 1 tune and imo much more reliable since ive owned one before from 120k km to 210k without any issues except for break and oil change.

Hey Dongleboo, Did you get to the bottom of this? I test drove a 2012 Audi A6 Avant 3.0 TDI on Saturday and felt exactly the same judder that you experienced, worst I found in higher gears at slower speeds when the engine was under more load and lower RPM I could feel almost a misfire, seller said he believed it was due to a injector that he has agreed to change what was noisy when cold. Wondered if this fixed it for you? I have to re test the car before purchasing but would love to know if the injector solved it for you, would give me a little more peace of mind!

OK David -missed that last sentence. Possible coolant temperature sensor that senses the coolant temperature and signals the ECU to provide the correct mixture in relation to coolant temperature?? They can fail to an arbitrary condition where starting and running mixture is too weak.

He says it's the 1.8 turbo petrol in the OP.

Petrol or diesel David?

So are you fitting a new track rod end, and if so what brand is it and where did you buy it from?

Upon reflection is it possible the fuel pump is giving up, as per the hard turnovers before starting, not so perfect idling, lean reading and not so good mpg ? My mechanic has a sophisticated code reader and every check he did came back with no fault apart from the lean reading

Hi can anyone help me with my radio code .I have recently bought the car and the battery went dead. as its old so when I put the new one on the radio is in safe mode. The code in the book didn'twork and its on 1 now so not goingto get it locked out.Also the mmi screen is blank.is the a rest procedure for that. Any help much appreciated

Keep us posted on how you get on 🙂

Glad you got sorted 🙂

Yes it has a Hex at the end of the thread. It’s almost like it runs out of thread before you can torque it up.

Does the end of the thread have a hex/ torx or triple square like the lower balljoint?

Hi, Selling my 2013 A8 Black 4.0 TFSi, 91,000 miles. In great condition, MOT till October 2025. If any interest i have plenty of pictures. £11250 Im in TA6

That’s the problem, even with a jack on the verge of lifting it into the air it’s still spinning and not locking on.

The balljoint should have a taper, when it's done up it should pull it's self tight and lock. You can use a jack on the bottom of the track rod to add extra pressure to help tighten it and stop it spinning.

Yes i am.

Right guys....... i put a 7.5 am fuse in No 1 in box under bonnet ( the box I messed about with Expensive lesson, although when the auto electrician check the cluster before I sent it off he said it was dead....... Thanks to everyone for their input and help... I am sure I will be back onwith more questions soon...

Cheers OJ! I guessed as much and fortunately have a laptop running an older version of windows. -the one before 10 I think - and now that I think about it, my bruv (who has the full VCDS setup) has loaded parts of the workshop manual as relates to bodywork on it I think......but he lives 300+ miles away near Newcastle and is currently on the other side of the planet for work.....I guess if it can hold the manual, it could take the software....I have heard it's pricey to obtain but that might just be scuttlebutt, I dunno. Ho hum, onwards and (hopefully) upwards. Thanks again.