All Activity

Did you manage to get this sorted, I had my ad blue injector and cap replaced but still comes up with fault, please let me know.

Hello all New to the club, bought the tickets and will be there with my S3, probably won't make Tesco though

Just purchased an Audi A1 TDi S and cannot for the life of me find out how to retract the side mirrors on it. Can anyone advise?

Hello ‘Rambo’, Would you please take a little of your time to complete your profile properly, so that members may be more inclined to spend a little of their time to help you out. Thanks.

I’m sorry if I have brought this topic up before but I find this forum really helpful. my issue is I have an Audi a5 sportback 2017, and I also have the Audi app. The app shows my ad blu level is sitting at 1500 miles. It doesn’t matter how much ad blu I put in my ad blu tank, this figure of 1500 miles doesn’t change. Can anyone please tell me if this is correct. I thought my maximum level was 9000 miles for my ad blu but I may be wrong. I thought if I put more ad blu in the tank, the dull level would go up on my app. thanks in advance. David

If the battery went flat over a few days it is dead and needs to be renewed. Spoilt batteries can not be resurrected no matter how long you leave them on charge and no matter what a simple voltage test may tell you. Sulphation, or its equivalent on a modern battery, has left it with an internal fault that can not be repaired.

Hi does anyone know whats up with my 2004 audi a4 1.8T ? Basically its been starting fine since i bought it 2 weeks back but the batteries been dead today as its been sat a few days so ive charged it up and its turning over but the engines not turning on everything sounds as it should when turning the car over but the that engines not starting any ideas ? Ive cleaned the battery terminals not that, i cant see it being flooded but checked that too nope dont know where to go from here chances are its going to be something simple If you could help that would be great

Hi no adjustment, they are a fixed length between the actuator and turbo not like the older type of actuator where you could shorten the rod to tweak up the boost pressure.

Take it these actuators aren’t adjustable they are just straight swap? Adapt turbo on vcds and should be good to go?

Much appreciated Steve. That's great. I'll let him know and we'll get it sorted!

Seems quieter but not had long enough to take it a good drive

well did it improve the performance.

Hi it looks like the PCV valve has become broken/disconnected and is spraying crankcase gas and oil vapour over the engine, the part wont be that expensive and I should imagine about an hours labour easy fix. Steve.

😂😂 just did the wynns turbo cleaner yesterday!

Hi based on what you have posted it may well be the actuator, BUT I have seen this many times with Variable Vane Turbos, what happens is the vanes become sticky and can't open and close quickly this in turn knackers the actuator as its constantly trying against increased resistance to close the vanes therefore killing the actuator, easy way of checking the vanes is to chuck a spray can of Wynns turbo cleaner down the inlet ducting after the air box, if after treatment it runs better it will definitely be the vanes sticking, depending on the milage you may be better getting a new turbo as if you fit the new actuator you will soon be back to square one. Steve.

Hi all, Just joined up and wondering if someone can help with an issue. My dad's A4 Avant has had the engine management light come on and there was a strong smell. Popping the bonnet I noticed what looked like smoke and I'm guessing a disconnection between a part of the engine. Please can someone let me know what they think the problem might be and any idea what the cost for repair may be. He's in his early 80's, I can only get round there once a week and worried he might get taken advantage of. Thanks in advance. 20240531_163457.mp4

So I’m having some problems with my turbo actuator on my 2015 Audi a6 2.0 TDI….read a lot of places these can be adjusted however the one I have and the replacement one part number doesn’t look as though it has any adjustment capability. im advised the actuator should read 3.6V with power on (tolerance 3.3v to 3.9v) engine off and 0.76v with engine on at idle. my readings are currently 3.2v power on, engine off and 0.72v with engine on at idle. the actuator itself has not nut/bolt to allow adjustment. have ran turbo adaptation on VCDS but no change to readings. basically my cars running like rubbish especially 4th, 5th and 6th gear as if it’s struggling. No EML, not fault codes. if I were to replace the actuator I take it that it would just be a straight swap over. image of actuator

Still available Now reduced to £600

Thanks for coming back on this Alan. My (jaundiced?) view on ‘fancy large wheels’ is that they may appeal to some onlookers who take any interest in looking at car wheels, but such people can be rare to come across. They will also appeal to owners who want, or expect, others to fancy their large wheels, and if that is what turns anybody on, then that’s fine too. The practical and downsides:- So that gearing etc. is not affected, the total diameter of wheel + tyre has to remain constant, so the larger the wheel dia. the lower the profile ( sidewall height) of the tyre has to be, and dictated profiles can be reduced to silly levels as with your current 30. The lower the tyre profile, the much harsher the ride quality the driver has to suffer, for the ‘benefit’ of being able to view the static car with the large fancy wheels - which can’t be seen by the driver when using the car! Does that significant disadvantage add up? I guess, yes, to some owners. Convertibles are for enjoying with the hood down, with a nice comfy ride, while you take your time to smell the flowers along the way. Just one person’s point of view, and very much open to debate. Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks for the update Paul, In addition to Cliff’s queries, I think I’m reading it correctly, that you changed the actual bearings in the original hub casing- correct? If so, any particular reason why you chose this labour intensive route, rather than renewing the hub assembly - complete - already fitted with new bearings? Kind regards, Gareth.

I have never come across wheel bearings that have over-heated unless there is a lubrication fault, which seems unlikely if the car has been well maintained. That leads me to wonder if the caravan is over loading them. Have you checked the load on the tow hitch?

Gareth, Thanks for the welcome to club and your thoughts on wheel size. The 20" wheels are what where with the car. Also appreciate your thoughts on going to 18" and I will start looking for some fresh rims and tyres to do a changeout. Many thanks. Alan

Hi Gareth, I am in the same position. Did you ever get to the bottom of this. Regards

Well, fancy that! Many thanks Cliff. Great shame you weren’t able to be one of the S. Wales’ valley academics who got me into this bad habit. I like the ingrained bit - this certainly has been exactly that with me over too many decades to recall. Kind regards, Gareth.

It is an S4 Avant B9 but I imagine the dimensions are the same. My partner has a 62 plate S5 and that also works but the low sloping glass window at the very back does require more fiddling. Mind you these are road bikes (42cm wide handlebars). With the wheels off, it should be much easier.