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Personally I’d swop out the battery. On 2017 car that’s now 8 years old and these cars are very picky about voltage drop or you get into all sorts of issues. Go AGM and get it coded to car, clear fault codes and go from there.

Nice car, cracking colour and I rate CrossClimate tyres for grip and are hard wearing if this is going to be mile muncher. The B7 forum on AudiSport channel is very active for specialised stuff.

Jack up the car at the front, on both sides, drop the engine under tray, and you can access bolts to ARB. Wire brush first and spray with penetrating release, buzz the bolts off if you have a power driver. You will also need to remove the drop links too. If the drop links have play at balljoints, replace with Meyle HD. On fitting new bushes, use red rubber grease. Don’t use any other grease.

I had the ball joint replaced mate, but if you think ARB bushes, is it an easy job to replace?

Potentially if the balljoints are goosed. My money is on ARB bushes. Wouldn’t expect top mounts to have gone on 2017 car unless high mileage.

Would droplink sound rubbery ? Creaking ??

Audi service desks don’t listen to hearsay or talk of forums however well intended. Minimum is they will scan car with VCDS, then perform repair. Their labour charges are horrific.

Worn drop links or ARB bushes. Both inexpensive.

Don’t under-estimate the task at hand. Luckily this is a 2WD version, but you’re looking at 13 year old car, and everything will be seized on. Hat off to you for attempting. Look at parts here: https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/audi/RDW/A6/717/5 If it were me, then absolute minimum tools would be air compressor with air hammer, axle stands, full socket set with 1/2” extension breaker bar, heat (blow-torch), plus gas penetrating fluid, impact driver, battery or power torque wrench, ceramic anti seize grease, coil spring compressors, scissor jack, 2-tonne jack, wire brush, preferable on drill attachment for exposed bolt threads. Put money on rear coil spring rubber seats. being corroded. Given the work you’re going to, this had better not be your daily driver. Allow yourself a few days, ideally under cover. Brake lines, then flexible hoses, clamp where possible, you’ll need to bleed brakes afterwards. Suspension parts, Meyle HD or Lemforder, and only torque with full vehicle laden weight. Prior to dropping subframe, mark position. At the end, you’re still going to need to do alignment. Also use new subframe bolts from Audi. You will likely need VCDS for rear electro mechanical brake, or chance it just leaving handbrake off and refit pads. Put the car battery on trickle charge, during refit. Given you’re going to hassle of replacing, then swap out rear bearings too. F.A.G., nothing else. Once done, spray everything with Lanoguard every year.

Hi all I purchased an approved Audi Q4 from Stansted Audi. At first glance it was a beautiful 73 plate sport with upgrades, registration LL73VNF. I later find out that it had been involved in some sort of prang and had been subject to a sub quality repair. I had a poor experience with the below garage though positively the garage were open to the feedback. They claim they are assessing it and will ensure it is appropriately repaired before it is sold again. I wanted to share my experience with you all, especially if someone else considers this car or garage. I may have just been lucky as many others have had positive experiences with the dealership. https://maps.app.goo.gl/UJDpEHaPUKWUefzv6?g_st=i Thanks all 👌

Good evening, I have just joined this forum after owning my a6 avant for 8 years. At the beginning of the year my MOT reviled that my rear subframe was heavily corroded so I took it upon myself to rub it down and give it a coat of paint. In doing this I knocked a fairly large hole in the right supporting arm of the subframe. Rather than give up on this car and rush to we by any car I have decided to replace the rear subframe. I found a replacement on eBay that appears to be in reasonable condition and I’d like to order replacement parts such as drop links, control arms if required and all the fasteners required. I am having difficulty finding part numbers especially for the fasteners. Are there any diagrams with part numbers available? I have found American ones but not exactly what I need. Has anyone tackled this job before ? I have a fair amount of experience working on cars but haven’t tackled anything like this. I’m worried about alignment of the subframe and haven’t worked out exactly where to start. I’d like to remove the entire subframe with all the arms, hubs, brakes etc then swap everything over on the drive before refitting. Any help would be greatly appreciated! 2012 A6 avant C7 2.0tdi FWD

Guys my S3 has been creaking from the front left side every time I turn left, it’s more prone when it’s slower, I’ve had ball joint and track rod end changed, no joy. It’s so annoying!! It’s sounds like a dry rubbery sound but can’t find what it is… It’s actually worse when the weather is warmer on a hot day. Any suggestions as I don’t want to keep spending loads and it still be there. Mechanic said process of elimination, could be top mount or steering rack. Tbf before it used to come and go, but as weather is warmer now i can hear it a lot more. Anybody had this issue, any suggestions or help would be appreciated

Ah, so you did. Apologies.

Added a genuine S3 Lip Spoiler to the boot lid. I love it. Such a small, subtle mod but makes so much difference. Next will be rear window tints. Just to smoke them out a little.

It is just 62000 miles.

Hi Cliff, I have stuck the number of studs and the pcd in the title of my post, thanks.

That sounds about normal for a couple of hours work.

A new transmission on a six year old car is surprising. How many miles has it done?

It might help if you told folk what PCD and number of holes you are looking for.

I trust my local mechanic far more than I do Halfords

As suggested - just take it to Halfords and get the alternator output checked.

NOW SOLD

I had an issue with the air conditioning in my 2019 e-tron 55, so I took it to Audi Milton Keynes. The problem was that I couldn’t activate the AC either through the mobile app or directly from the car. It was showing a fault code, but the code only indicated that the AC wasn’t working—without explaining the cause. After checking several forums, I found that it could be a pressure sensor issue. I shared this with the service team, but they insisted it was a wiring problem and said they needed to perform wiring diagnostics. In the end, it turned out there was no wiring issue at all—the problem was caused by a £100 pressure sensor. However, I still had to pay an extra £400 for the unnecessary wiring work.

Scan the car with VCDS. Normally when the dash lights up like a Christmas tree it’s a wheel speed sensor.

Hi everyone, I have a 2019 e-tron 55, and a few days ago I started noticing a noise coming from the rear when starting to move and braking. At first, I suspected that something might have gotten stuck in the brake pads, as it sounded like a scraping noise. Then I tried braking while the car was in neutral, and interestingly, the noise didn’t occur. I took the car to Audi Milton Keynes, but they told me there were no fault codes detected. However, when they took a sample from the transmission oil, they found metal particles and said the transmission needs to be replaced. I called several places for repair, but it’s nearly impossible to find a specialist. Considering the average repair cost for most cars is around £3000, the £4600 quote I got from the dealership actually seemed reasonable. They said the part will take 3–4 days to arrive, and the removal and installation should take another 2 days.