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To be honest at this stage I don't think it's a crack , it's showing no sign of oil coming through it , and like I said there is absolutely no sign of oil anywhere i park . Also surly if it was leaking out oil there would be traces of it the whole way along the bottom side of the car , of which there's none . And also the car is driving extremely well surly a crack gearbox would show alot of symptoms. Thanks

Like Magnet, I am not convinced the water pump has anything to do with the symptoms. Before committing to any major expense I suggest you get the battery professionally tested. A failing battery can cause limp mode and false error messages, amongst other problems.

So I think that pin 1 is sending 5v from the ecu to the maf in error. Does anyone agree? Pic attached shows pin 2 as ground. Pin 3 routes to B277 positive connection 1 in wiring harness. Pin 2 should be for maf to to send voltage to pin 22 in ecu, not send 5v to maf sensor. So what feeds pin 22? Anyone understand where in the ecu it can produce the 5v? Or where else in the system 5v could be fed into the ecu which is then going to the maf? It'd be good to know what other wiring I can investigate that could be causing this.

Imperfections in the sand mould can often create surface imperfections in the metal that look like cracks in the casting, or it may actually be a real crack. The only way to be certain is to take it off, clean it thoroughly, and apply a penetrating crack detector dye.

I was initially tempted to point to the universal joint in the steering column, but the sound does not match what I would expect to hear from such a joint. I suggest removing the plastic shrouds around the upper part of the column to see if there is anything out of place there.

excellent glad you got it sorted and thanks for the update.

Afternoon all, looking for help. Had the airbag light on dash, looked for solution on forum’s, done everything suggested, lastly to disconnect battery. Which I have now done. On reconnection. Air bag light, ldw , traction control, tyre pressure warning etc, etc. Now can’t do anything via MMI or is it a trip to Audi. Car 21 plate saloon. Thanks in advance.

It’s asking me to press the clutch to start and when I do it goes off 🙂 don’t know if that helps

Thank you do you have your video of how you did the bypass it isn’t working on your post I have a machanic friend who will try the ideas as he knows what’s he’s doing 🙂

Are there any sensors that can be replaced or are they all part of the water pump?

There we are Roxanne, and many thanks to D for the summary. As D say, please let us know how you get on. Regards, Gareth.

Thank you very much.

Many thanks Antonio, If we haven’t received a response from Andrew by the end of tomorrow, I’ll send him a PM for you, and hopefully post a response. Regards, Gareth.

Thank you very much for your reply. Audi dealership is trying to solve this problem since october 2023. After the diagnosis they find error P044100 - EVAP emission incorrect. The solution was to change N80 valve, but the problem came back! Every 2000km, more or less, the problem returns and i have to stop the car, shut off engine and restart the car so that the system works normally again. I went back to the workshop more than 10 times and they changed practically everything in the EVAP system, but without success. Next appointment at the dealership will be on the 11th. I'm curious about what they'll replace this time...

Hi Roxanne, My investigations showed there are two common faults. The ignition switch and the micro switch which operates on the clutch pedal being depressed. The latter can be on the pedal itself close to where it pivots or it can be on the clutch master cylinder. If you are confident you know what you're doing try my jumper wire mod detailed above. If that works then you know it's not the starter or solenoid. The ignition switch is dead easy to swap. My guess is it's the microswitch on the clutch. It would be dead easy to fit a starter button to get around the issues just power it from an ignition switched live 12V so without the key the starter can be operated. Good luck and please let me know what it turns out to be.

Welcome Antonio, Regrettably Andrew never did return to let the forum know how the issue was resolved. Let’s hope he does now, but if not, you could send him a PM and hope for a response. Regards, Gareth.

Welcome Roxanne and thanks for joining. Since the car won’t crank, it will first need to be established whether the stater motor solenoid is getting a full 12 volts. If it is, suspect the starter motor, if it isn’t, the wiring will need tracing and checking from the ignition/key start to the starter motor. If it were mine, I think I would consider investing in an hours time with a trusted auto electrician. Please let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hi Same problem. Any update about the solution? Thanks

Hi I am having the same issue a4 b8 won’t crank I have ran diagnostics and got the fault on the picture have tried new relays still nothing… only had the car a couple of month really stressing me out please help when it first happened it did eventually start again after a lot of tries 😕 battery is new and fully charged

Fantastic work, hope you can get it back this week and enjoy it 🙂

As Dave has said it's often a loose wire under the passenger seat.

Welcome Kenny, but please give us some more information for members to go with. Could you please describe the problem you are having? Regards, Gareth.

A little update for you guys. New clutch is fitted, spent about 12 hours all in with two people over two days. Went off without a hitch! Taking off the old clutch made the cause of the noise readily apparent; two of three metal straps holding the pressure plate together was broken! This caused a rough idle and an ungodly rattle with the clutch pedal depressed. Lifted the car by the gearbox side motor mount with an engine lifter and put it on tall jack stands, removed the battery and battery tray. Next we unbolted the wheel well cowling(?)/plastic and the lower control arm for the bushings on the drivers side (Norway so LHD not RHF) so we had space to pull the driveshaft out completely, right hand side driveshaft only need unbolting from the gearbox. After all the bits and bobs on the gearbox was out we dropped it from the bottom with one person underneath. This was a bit finicky but it was enough space to do it without too much trouble. Gearbox oil changed, new clutch slapped on. We didn’t have the tool to compress/pretension the pressure plate so we used a simple centering tool and gradually torqued the screws to 20nm in typical zig zag fashion. With me lying on a creeper/roller and the gearbox on my chest lifted the gearbox and mated it back to the engine with the other person standing above the engine bay and lifting from there. This wasn’t super easy, but a bit of finessing and manouvering of the gearbox did the trick. Highly recommend being two for this job, especially for the mounting and dismounting of the gearbox. The 12 hours includes coffee breaks, googling stuff and a trip to the local parts store. For the algorithm: This was done on a manual 2013 Audi A3 8V 1.4 TFSI CMBA 122bhp engine, gearbox code is MYF/0AJ.

Looking at it closely I think it's just staining and not actually a deep crack , it's like the edges of wet staining. The car is driving to well for me to believe that the gearbox is cracked, When I look there is no sign of oil leaking down from the marks . That surly would suggest that it's not leaving oil out .

Also the car is driving perfect, no skipping gears , smooth gear changes , everything seems normal .