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so in general,the water isn’t coming out of sunroof,it’s coming from that sound barrier? I can’t open any file/video on this page. Can someone reach out to me,my email is [email protected] with the video and pdf file of bulletin how to fix it. Thank you!

Hi my keyfob won't work so changed battery and still the same so I use door key which activated my alarm and it wouldn't start I put keys in the right place to connect but kept saying key not detected Its a a5 40tfsi 2022plate

Your video doesn’t play. Invariably these clips don’t add anything to pinpoint the source issue. If you’ve had car 8 years, then you know service history. Suspect it could be a wheel bearing. You tend to hear them between 40-50mph. If you’re hearing it from 20mph it must be particularly bad. Couple of ways to pinpoint them. Car raised at front, both sides. Hold wheel at 10-to-2 position and try lateral movement. Then try at 12-to-6 position. Any movement should be obvious. That can still be difficult to confirm, so other way is to remove brake caliper and feel the hub rotation. Cars with Quattro drive are always hard to pinpoint. Luckily it’s a hub unit. Four triple-square bolts hold it on. You’ll need to remove through hub bolt too, and replace. Bad news is these bearing hubs can seize on, so air hammer is your friend for these jobs, plus flap wheel to clean any oxide corrosion. Use a smear of ceramic grease on new bolts. Parts wise, F.A.G. units every time. Pretty sure that will be OEM. Always fit in pairs.

Thanks for the advice, ill have a shop around and see what decent wheels I can find 👍

Hi guys New to the Audi forum, even though I've had my car for about 8 years. Had a lot of work done on it lately, including crank pulley, drive belt, water pump, coolant valve, etc. Car is in otherwise good working order and has clocked up 108k miles. Last few days, I've noticed that when I accelerate (and ONLY when I accelerate), car is making an audible sound when I go past 20mph. Its not going into limp mode. It still pulls well and the revs go up as they should. The more I accelerate, the more this noise gets louder. The clutch doesn't feel too spongey or too firm. At a push, the accelerator pedal may be giving off a very subtle vibration - nothing major. The best way I can describe the sound is like that of a sporty car with a loud exhaust when it is being driven fast. Like a loud whining sound? I have attached a clip that will hopefully be able to help. My possible thoughts are either something to do with the turbo or the wheel bearing. Many thanks in advance for anyone that recognises the issue!20260702_121029.mp48

The greater the offset, the more the rim is moved away from the hub, so you need more offset to clear the leg.

Count yourself lucky its not the V10. The V8 is generally reliable, however you're buying a 2016-2018 supercar, so it's been around. History is everything. If there's more paperwork than a Brexit export, then you're on the right lines. If the tyres are on the legal limit and brakes need a refresh, then be aware it will be expensive and more importantly question why? Simply saying RS6 seems to add £2k to everything. I'd want the car scanned first off with VCDS to see if there's any historical DTC errors logged. This is a performance car so oil changes every 5-8k miles. In terms of issues. Air intake valves can carbon up. You could treat it to a walnut blast. It's sensor heavy, so if original battery, factor in replacement. It needs coded to car and vented. If panoramic roof, check drain holes. Run mild detergent down them (exit above hinge on front door) and behind rear wheel arch liner. VAG have specific grease for sunroof. Also clean rubber seals. Assuming LED headlights. Potentially LED matrix if later car. Then check operation. Dipping light adjustment on start up is normal, but any further sporadic movent underway points to damaged or siezed height adjustment sensors. Servicing, diffs could use gear oil change. Depends on mileage. It's a ZF 6-speed transmission, but there will be a filter kit, so unless evidence of having it done, factor in. Cooling, apparently this thing has multiple radiators, fans and oil coolers. All are prone to wear and tear. If the car was remapped, be very wary.

Just wondering which gearbox service kit members recommend for the zf 6 speed auto box on the 3.0 tdi (240bhp) A6 C6 Allroad? Thanks

When you say greater offset do you mean less? My originals i have on are 15s but they look lost in the wheel arches, ive looked at numerous pics of c4s with what ranges from 17s to 19s. Like you say I dont really want to go down the spacer route and with them being on the front aswell.

Good evening gentlemen, upon replacing my pcv I have taken my car down the motorway and a large amount of blue smoke came from the back when overtaking, I had continued for another 3 miles and pulled over and there was some smoke coming from exhaust, I turned car off for about 10 mins and drove the 15 miles home and not a single bit of smoke, gave it proper acceleration all the way through 3rd and 4th to about 110mph and nothing so belive this has fixed my issue

Hi guys, I have a 2008 audi a5 coupe 3.0 tdi on about 138k miles, the ac was blowing ice cold on 1 side and slightly warmer on the other, it was like this for a couple weeks but then eventually stopped blowing cold at all so I thought it was just a case of getting it regassed, I took it to 2 different places to get it regassed but both said that no matter what they couldn't get the compressor to engage/kick in.. they said it could be a sensor, a switch or the compressor itself.. so I've now taken it to a 3rd place for a diagnosis and they said they think it's the compressor but to test the compressor they have to basically get to a point where they start taking it off to get to the plug so I might aswell just replace it while they're at it since they think that's the problem anyway.. what do u guys think? I've scanned the car using obdeleven and got the car scanned by them and it's got no codes at all

Yes u are right, cleaned it off and inspected it properly and its pointing towards front crankshaft seal. I keep getting a persistent P0341 error for camshaft sensor, which I’ve replaced but still appears. Im thinking it could be related. Once again thank you for your input 🙏

Tyres that rub on the suspension leg will certainly cause problems, to put it mildly. While spacers might solve the problem they are bodge. You would do better to buy wheels with a greater offset.

Hi, im after some advice/help? I purchased a set of oem audi wheels, there 17s ET45. I went to have them fitted yesterday, the rear looks perfect but the front the tyres sit on the suspension leg. Ive searched and asked questions, im told 10mm spacers on the front will sort the problem but im a little concerned overtime it could cause problems? All the pics ive searched/seen the c4s range from 17s to 19s all round Thank you 🙂

Gauze missing from cam-bridge...... Removed pcv, hpfp, vacuum pump and of course the cam-bridge and valve parts. Had the inlet manifold off to fit another seal so been check there also (I know not likely) Any rare sightings welcomed 🤔

Into the garage on Monday

Hi guys New to the Audi forum, even though I've had my car for about 8 years. Had a lot of work done on it lately, including crank pulley, drive belt, water pump, coolant valve, etc. Car is in otherwise good working order and has clocked up 108k miles. Last few days, I've noticed that when I accelerate (and ONLY when I accelerate), car is making an audible sound when I go past 20mph. Its not going into limp mode. It still pulls well and the revs go up as they should. The more I accelerate, the more this noise gets louder. The clutch doesn't feel too spongey or too firm. At a push, the accelerator pedal may be giving off a very subtle vibration - nothing major. The best way I can describe the sound is like that of a sporty car with a loud exhaust when it is being driven fast. Like a loud whining sound? I have attached a clip that will hopefully be able to help. My possible thoughts are either something to do with the turbo or the wheel bearing. Many thanks in advance for anyone that recognises the issue. Cheers, Oz20260702_121029.mp4

guys ive put a deposit down on a RS6 C7.5 2018, just wondering what are the biggest issues to look out for and anything you guys would give a heads up to a new owner? The last RS i had was a RS4 B7 the 20067 4.2

mis understanding steve he said its a pig to do

Hi I don't know what you are on about, changing the sensor is a joy, the bolt holding it in is nearly always seized and then you have the fabulous prospect of getting the new one in at the right angle without disturbing the reluctor ring on the crank seal, take in to account the swear box bill, buy the mechanic a beer. Steve.

Hi the oil sensor is common I had two on my car the oil is probably coming from the sump seal mine did that too, they also delight in leaking from the front crank seal and the cam shaft seals, they also leak from the oil cooler and the rear crank seal thats why there's a hole where the gearbox meets the engine to let it run out and spray down the under tray and cross member for the gearbox, you will always be playing chase the ace with leaks, rocker cover injector seals are another source of oil buying habits, I swear Audi have shares in Quantum Steve

Hi. Please feel free to give us a try for insurance if you wish. We give discounts of up to 15% of car insurance for members. Regards, Dan.

Oil leak☹️- A6 2015 2.0tdi ultra Mmi oil sensor was reading off, telling me to Reduce oil, while diagnostic machine was showing extremely low oil (value should be around 80mm but was 33mm!) so ordered sensor and oil. And when took tray off, sump and tray all covered in oil. For now ive cleaned it all off and gonna have a look at where the oil might be leaking from. Any ideas? 1756e869-11f7-4ed4-bc9a-937a17fdad75.mov

update car cranked over but would not start,so called th AA out.he connected his computer to the car and it came up with crankshaft sensor.he suggested changing the battery as when he connected his battery pack the car started.so we tried a brand new battery(see pics) but it would not start so he took it off.so he said its probably the crankshaft sensor.so left the car overnight so the engine was cold and it started so took it to the garage and 2 days later and a new crankshaft sensor all is good.....the cost at the garage was £47.50 for the sensor and £200 labour....the guy said it was a pig to get to at the back of the engine.so i would suggest leaving this one to a garage.thanks all

Was the above response helpful to you Suheel? I know you have seen it and the responses to your other question.