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Welcome D ( what is your name?). Can any member/owners please help out with this? Regards, Gareth.

Good day gentlemen (and ladies should there be any), I am new to your forum as I am considering buying a new A3 petrol, coming from a Mazda 2.2d with its inherent problems , but driven 2 Rover diesels previously without problems. Seems just scanning a few comments the Audi diesel suffers similar problem to Mazda diesels. So as diesels generally are becoming a bit iffy and overcomplicated I have decided to go back to a petrol with any new car I buy. I would prefer the 2 litre A3 as a 1.5lt is pushing the limits a bit for the performance but they don't come in the S model as I donn' want all the bling. Has anybody had this model for 5 years say, from new ( 1.5 or 2.o ltr 6 speed manual) and got around 70k miles on it found any problems that I need to be aware of? No idea when this model came out as new to Audi. Any help would be appreciated, as asking a saleman would be a waste of time, even the few questions I did ask , being technical he hadn't a clue. I have been a member of 3 Mazda forums and enjoyed helping people fault find and fix their problems based onmy experiences and interest and 50 years of servicing my own cars and rebuilding 2 engines in my early life ( it was just something you did [or perhaps had to do] then). There are few cars out there that are not milk floats, have 6 speed manuals and not bricks on wheels ( SUV's), and other than Japanese makes , the other oriental makes don't interest me. The salesman said these cars are mild hybrid, but couldn't explain other than he 'thinks' there is another battery in the boot area but no propulsion motors. Could he be talking about regenetive braking , such that when you remove your foot off the accellerator, extra load goes on the alternatorwhich hels slow the engineand thus the car down and charges the stop/start condenser which also powers certain things when stopped. When you come to accellerate, load comes off the alternator until at a steady speed. I note that the care comes with low profile 40 tyres, so I asked about 50 or 55 tyres to give a decent size tyre wall and comfier drive, but he said these are the tyres that Audi prefers. Gone are the days of driving on 2 wheels and a door handle, I prefer comfort and economy to speed. Saving 1.5 seconds on 0-60 times is doing me no favours as I am retired and have all the time in the world which I have got left. The car on initial look seemed to tick some of my boxes that others failed to meet. Decent size square boot, slightly smaller than the M6 so a better fit in the garage ( at present the 6 is !Removed! paper clearance going through the door and just fits lengthwise) but the long wheel base on full profile tyres gives a comfortable ride touring and effortless driving with the high torque. Another thing I asked, "Could I plug in my USB A memory stick full of my music and will it play through the sound system". He seemed a bit hesitant on this so trying not to lie. It seems the so called 'leather seats' are man made leather, so plastic, not off an animals back. Any comments from owners will be greatly appreciated. Just a bit of advice for diesel owners, that DPF problems are not usually a fault with the DPF , but something upstream is faulty, sensors or their tubes blocked, blocked intake manifold, too much town driving, worn injector nozzles. Diesels just don't like school runs and lots idling, but a steady 70 mph for several hours they lap it up.

Today I connected my computer and the engine control unit showed error P304500 – fuel pump electronics (faulty). I last scanned it about two months ago and it was clean. I should add that I can't clear the error with the engine running or with the ignition on. Has anyone else had this error with their engine? Where should I start? Audi a6 c8 45tfsi 2019

My indicator for right turn flashes to the left when switched on for first few flashes then heads over to the right side. need to check the connections to try and fix the intermittent issue. Have looked in both fuse boxes and behind the hazard cluster on the dash? thank you

These are now sold.

Yep 90 degrees is where it should be. Have you had a diagnostic check to see if any fault codes flag up?

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Very nice. Think I've been past it.

Hi Magnet. I’ll contact garage and find out which one they put in. Am i right in thinking that if it reaches 90 then its working correctly though?

Thanks Naresh, I would suggest restricted use and very frequent level checking when you do have to use it. Don’t depend on the ‘low coolant ‘ message popping up to remind you to do that. Regards, Gareth.

Hello David, Seems like you have your mA in a twist. Power consumption when the car has fully shut down (possibly in excess of 30 mins after being locked) should be around 50 ish mA, so 1.6 ma must be wrong. My guess is you are talking amp figures here rather than mA. Try disconnecting the alternator output plug - might be discharging through a faulty diode. Regards, Gareth.

Any particular reason why your Sign On has now changed to Guest, Paul?

First question first before moving on:- Brand of new thermostat used?

thanks -for the welcome

Welcome Mark, I fear you are about to throw your money away by engaging in this ‘carbon clean’ - a bit like putting on your best designer gear, when you haven’t changed your underpants for a week! If it were mine:- Check how much fuel is in it - hopefully not much - and add 2 gallons of E5 to which you have added a fair dose of Redex. (See this morning’s response to a similar issue with an aging convertible). Get it plugged in and find what codes are showing. It seems you have been told it has service history, but you have not seen the evidence before committing to buy. Bit of a chance taken there, but…. I would certainly keep my ‘carbon clean’ funds as far down in my pocket to render it inaccessible. Please let us know how you get on Mark. Regards, Gareth.

Many thanks Gregg. Now understandable in knowledge of stale fuel. I would suggest you only use E5, and add a fair slosh of Redex to every gallon. Well worth treating it to an oil and filter change using respected branded filters and oil. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hi im new to the group, wondering if anyone can help. I had an issue with my car, engine was only reaching around 70 degree temp. So had the main thermostat replaced. Now the car does reach 90 and stays there well, but it takes a long time to get there. Maybe 30mins of driving. Obviously isnt normal still. Ive been told to change the 2nd thermostat by some other owners, but when i give my engine code to suppliers, they are telling me i dont have that part in my engine. Anyone resolved the slow warm up issue? Engine CJCD. 2.0 Diesel CVT thanks alot, look forword to any replies

help

Just outside Dornoch, about an hour north of Inverness.

aid

hi gareth thanks for the reply,i done a coolant flush last night and it was badly needed as a lot of sediment flushed out,after putting in fresh petrol and driving it things seem a lot better as i think it was parked up since feb,it needs some work as in discs pads etc so ill keep the forum updated on my progress

band

I hope the service history gives you an idea of what parts have recently been changed. My worry, is that the cars been px'd because of the issue either because the previous owner found it was going to be an expensive repair, or they had enough chasing the issue and spending money on various parts to fix it.

You're welcome 🙂 Yes. I believe a crank sensor can.