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Posted (edited)

Still knocking, has been to three garages now, no one seems able to diagnose the issue just want to start swapping out parts which I'm not keen to do as it gets pricey, battery was diagnosed as faulty (replaced and wasn't the original), TPMS sensors seem to have a mind of their own.....TBH is feeling a bit flaky as a vehicle, had multiple BMWs before this and never suffered this many faults this side of 100K

Edited by The_Master

Posted

If it's a single knock when turning slowly it will be a bush in the wishbone if it is a few knocks together on rougher roads or of there is a dip etc in rd surface it will be drop links (drop links are common faliure and usually when knackered you can't get em off they have to be cut off

Posted

If it's a constant multiple clicking noise on turning and pulling away it will be a cv joint

If you slowly accelerate from 50 to 60mph does your steering have slight wobble??

Posted

It doesn't do it when driving along at speeds above about 30 mph, most pronounced when driving slowly, liken manouvering in a supermarket car park, will knock when driving straight or turning (slightly worse when turning) whether on rough roads or smooth. Nothing felt through the steering , I've tried tied the usual CV test of putting on full lock, no noise , there seems to be very little shunt when queuing from the drivetrain.....it seems to be coming from the passenger side front, although its hard to be sure, have jacked it up, got a pry bar in everywhere, got my wife to turn the wheel while I listen with on jack and also when loaded, can't find anything obvious.

Posted
2 hours ago, The_Master said:

 I've tried tied the usual CV test of putting on full lock, no noise , there seems to be very little shunt when queuing from the drivetrain.....it seems to be coming from the passenger side front, although its hard to be sure, have jacked it up, got a pry bar in everywhere, got my wife to turn the wheel while I listen with on jack and also when loaded, can't find anything obvious.

You won't find defective CV joints with a crowbar. You need to clamp self locking grips onto the drive shaft and rotate it violently to detect any rotational slack. The gearbox needs to be locked by putting into a gear, and the wheels need to be locked either with the brakes or being on the ground while doing the test.

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