Still knocking, has been to three garages now, no one seems able to diagnose the issue just want to start swapping out parts which I'm not keen to do as it gets pricey, battery was diagnosed as faulty (replaced and wasn't the original), TPMS sensors seem to have a mind of their own.....TBH is feeling a bit flaky as a vehicle, had multiple BMWs before this and never suffered this many faults this side of 100K

Edited July 15, 2025Jul 15 by The_Master

If it's a single knock when turning slowly it will be a bush in the wishbone if it is a few knocks together on rougher roads or of there is a dip etc in rd surface it will be drop links (drop links are common faliure and usually when knackered you can't get em off they have to be cut off

If it's a constant multiple clicking noise on turning and pulling away it will be a cv joint

If you slowly accelerate from 50 to 60mph does your steering have slight wobble??

It doesn't do it when driving along at speeds above about 30 mph, most pronounced when driving slowly, liken manouvering in a supermarket car park, will knock when driving straight or turning (slightly worse when turning) whether on rough roads or smooth. Nothing felt through the steering , I've tried tied the usual CV test of putting on full lock, no noise , there seems to be very little shunt when queuing from the drivetrain.....it seems to be coming from the passenger side front, although its hard to be sure, have jacked it up, got a pry bar in everywhere, got my wife to turn the wheel while I listen with on jack and also when loaded, can't find anything obvious.

2 hours ago, The_Master said:

 I've tried tied the usual CV test of putting on full lock, no noise , there seems to be very little shunt when queuing from the drivetrain.....it seems to be coming from the passenger side front, although its hard to be sure, have jacked it up, got a pry bar in everywhere, got my wife to turn the wheel while I listen with on jack and also when loaded, can't find anything obvious.

You won't find defective CV joints with a crowbar. You need to clamp self locking grips onto the drive shaft and rotate it violently to detect any rotational slack. The gearbox needs to be locked by putting into a gear, and the wheels need to be locked either with the brakes or being on the ground while doing the test.

Thanks, I wasn't testing the CV joints with the pry bar, I was looking for play in suspension joints. I don't think the noise is CV related and two different mechanics say they have specifically checked them and all good. There is absolutely no vibration or clunking when driving slowly say queuing for a roundabout or with sudden acceleration. or turning on full lock which usually betrays the outer CV joints.

Went back in yesterday as still clicking/knocking at low speeds, garage couldn't find any issues, went through the MOT with no problems.

Drove back from garage, still making the same noise ....very frustrating, seems worse with a passenger in the car, have tried to locate it but no joy.

Suspension and road noise seems much higher than my previous BMWs , tyres are Good Year Eagle F1 Asymmetric 6's

I have a very similar sounding issue on my 2017 A4 B9 with 45,000 miles. Been making the noise for a number of years now. Had it looked at a few times at my local mechanics garage and they're unsure of cause and have been hesitant/reluctant to investigate further. Last time it was in they thought it could be the steering rack.

It is in for a service with Audi soon so will see what they say in their audi cam report.