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I like the Pioneer DA-120. http://www.trustedreviews.com/apple-carplay-review It has all the features that I need. Google maps becomes Sat Nav. Siri request button. The only problem I find is the voice recognition has trouble recognising certain phonebook entries when requesting numbers to call.

Hello Tj, Certainly in agreement with Tevor and Bradley. All I would add is that it's not what could be termed good practice to leave the car in Drive - at say lights- and holding its progress by applying the footbrake. It loads the torque converter. I know many people do, including me when I forget! , but best to put it in neutral, then into Drive only when you want to move off. Kind regards, Gareth.

and i wouldnt go down the terrraclean route either, ever! a very similar route would be take remove your air inlet pipe, post turbo. get a wall paper stripper, get somoene to hold your car at around 2.5k revs and let it suck steam in to the inlet. give it half an hour or so like this. job done

Ok, my two pence... Firstly, why replace the EGR? all it is doing is sending !Removed! exhaust fumes through your inlet, cough cough. blank it and be done with it! Secondly, why pay £55 for diagnostics. get a cable and Vag-com light off ebay for next to nowt and you'll have enough to find out at least what codes have been stored. Thirdly, if it is the turbo vanes then i'm not sure about your engine, but.. on my Leon that had the pre PD ASV engine the turbo vanes were sticking. i bought a tin of mr muscle and some thin tube and worked it free. it took some doing as had been a problem for a while but it sorted it after a few hours. TIP, dont use your thumb, that soon becomes painful and boring. i managed to find a way to get a massive extension bar on to the actuator and pump it with that.

Hello Tj, Have you tried the car on a slight gradient with the selector in Drive and the handbrake and footbrake off? It should simply hold itself there and move off freely when the accelerator is applied. Kind regards, Gareth.

what type of box is it? a torque converter or manual box with controller type?

Hi All, Thanks for the warm welcome ☺. The car doesn't move forwards itself, the biting point seems very weak its just about moves very slowly. Could that mean the clutch/flywheel could be going? I'll try checking the brakes to see if they binding this weekend. Is there any audi a3 exploded diagrams of the engine components on this forum? Thanks Thanks for the advise, that is something that I do. I need to make a habbit of putting it into neutral more. Thanks

Hi Aaron....welcome to the Forum If it's as in the picture and on the passenger side, then it's the left-hand side (nearside) Lucky it didn't do any damage behind the grill Cheers Trevor

Appreciating Darren's sound advice and economics, but what Paul's £55 will buy him is advice as well as a good interpretation of the problem, and it might be worth considering the benefits of this "extra" expense of £55 minus the cost of the code reader. I mention this, since as I understand it, Paul has very limited use of his hands, and it's pretty dam difficult to do anything without them, and he will depend upon assistance of some kind. Kind regards, Gareth.

http://www.hyperchips.co.uk/blog/does-egr-valve-removal-cause-mot-failure

sorry i got that wrong, they do probe it too i believe. but still, my point regarding the EGR not affecting it stands.

it certainly is the case for DPFs. even if it is the case for the EGR, you are not removing it, you are blanking it. when you consider what it is doing blanking it will improve your emissions. and don;t forget, the "emissions" test for diesels during the MOT is currently only a smoke test; rev it up, let it idle and look for black smoke. not sure if that is set to change?

Yeah she goes well. Much smoother acceleration now than before too. Just need to get used to the extra turbo whistle!

Hi Tej...welcome to the Forum Yes, in theory, the car should creep forwards. If it is not, I wonder if the brakes are binding slightly...worth jacking each wheel in turn so it's just of the ground and slowly rotate each wheel ensuring there are no points where it binds. Make sure the transmission is in Neutral when you do this and obviously the handbrake off when checking the rears. Additionally, it is worth checking the Auto Trans fluid to see that it's to the correct level. Cheers Trevor

Hi Tj Yes, in an Automatic it should do that, This means (like a manual) the car has got the biting point :) so yes perfectly normal. Welcome to the forum by the way :D Regards Bradley

Hi Stefano Does sound like an sensor issue, you can always buy one online and do it yourself if you're a handy man with car's if not then is this a main Audi dealer or specialist? Regards Bradley

Hi Paul Welcome to the forum! as Trevor has said we are all friendly here! make your self at home, would you like tea or coffee? haha Thanks Bradley

As an owner of the 3.2 I do believe the sline has stiffer suspension as standard due to it being slightly lower by around 15mm, at least on the suspension package. It's a lovely cruiser car! And a good one is cheap these days.

Glad that thi sis a common issue as mine has started to squeal like a stuck pig, quick look around showed this; " If you want to do this. Halfords HFX321 25mm grommet and some clear or black silicone sealant. You need to remove the plastic on the inside of the bootlid first, 4 torx (i think t20 or 25) screws on the inside, two located in the handle recess and two located underneath the covers that access the fog and reverse lights (you need to remove these covers). then just set about pulling the inner cover off, its on clips so just tug at it until it comes off. The actual wiper motor is held on by 3x 10mm bolts which are easy enough to get to. However you need to remove the wiper arm first before you can take it off. Undo the cap at the pivot of the wiper, underneath is a 13mm bolt, remove that. What i did from here was use a small hacksaw to cut the plastic part of the wiper down to the metal. Once i did that i just used a flat head screwdriver to break the plastic off. I then removed the bolts from the inside and it was off. Pull out the old grommet, slap some silicone sealant around the inside of the new grommet and pop it into place. I then from the inside of the boot slapped on a load more silicone sealant then went about blocking up the water feed for the motor. Job done."

People who do 40 miles an hour in a 60 then 40 through a 30.... Grinds my gears!! People who do not say thanks when you let them into a queue.

Remap and work all done. Wow!! It's like a different car! Acceleration is phenomenal. Will leave it a couple of weeks to make sure everything is ok then I'll introduce it to biodiesel and let the savings commence!

Thanks James, it makes sense. Black smoke can be a number of things from the EGR valve (blanked in your case so not that) through to injectors and the simplest of all - air filter issues. In effect, you are injecting too much diesel in relation to the volume of air intake. Now it seems you have possibly improved the diesel flow via. a new fuel filter, but how about the air flow via. a new air filter? If it were mine, I would go for the simple option and change it anyway, on the basis that it sets the base line for when to change it again. What make fuel filter did you fit as a matter of interest, and what make air filter are you going to use if you are going to change it? Let's hope this will solve it, but if not, you might just be into getting the injectors bench tested, so fingers crossed. Change the air filter and follow Bradley's advice of giving it an Italian Tune, mind it doesn't sound as if it needs it, by your reference to flooring it! I'm set In my ways, but flooring it is a bit like waking you up in the morning, and getting you to run a marathon! OK James, only joking and perhaps enjoy it when you can, because your driving will end up with enjoyment in pace-with-grace. Let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Can someone enlighten us on VAG's service intervals for fuel filters on diesel engines?

Many thanks for the replies. Quater life crisis made me snort my cream jam scone nearly through my nose!! I will be using that! As for the BHP, not overly sure, will be putting it on a dyno once I get a decent induction kit fitted without my wife knowing. I am not expecting massive gains as its non turbo, but every little counts! This seems a very lively board so look forward to having a good read!

not a nice time to have to lie on your back under a car...I'd wait until summer

I'm no expert but I have a 2004 3.2, v6 8P1, bought it earlier in the year, I looked at similar priced S3s but they had all been hammered. For that kind of money your probably looking at an 80k mileage car, I have one and I love it. in terms of basics, check the previous MOT and made sure the very few issues had been resolved, secondly it hadn't had its major service which was due at 80k (Audi wanted £500, Local garage wanted £370 - it depends who you prefer) but that got me some money off and could be the reason someone is selling at this kind of age. These have timing chains not belts, but they can go and its from this kind of mileage it can happen, I'm not an expert but bear it in mind. Check for leakage on in the suspension, mine has started to go. This is basic and may be stuff you already know - but finally, the battery is under the boot and needs tools to access it, make sure they come with the car!