Magnet

Hello Stuart, I’m very sorry to hear of your plight, and regrettably, I don’t feel I can offer you any advice which is likely to get you out of your predicament, but some additional information may assist in deciding the best way forward. You say the engine was rebuilt 18/24 months ago under an extended warranty, and I wonder if you were aware of the exact issue with the engine at that time, which would account for a rebuild ‘due to an oil leak’. Were you issued with any paperwork which gave any details of the work carried out? Two factors of import here are:- What mileage has the car covered since the ‘rebuild’, and what servicing has it see during this 18/24 month period? This may have some bearing on whether you have reasonable grounds for claim. Unfortunately Stuart, the following is now all too late, and I don’t mention it with any intention of rubbing your nose in it, but it is said on a basis of moving forward and gaining experience from a bad situation:- never ignore any unusual noises - the car is trying to tell you something. Check the oil, water and tyre pressures on a regular basis - once a month, and before any longer than normal journey. Yes, you can put your faith warning lights etc.,, by why would you want to be alerted to an issue at a point of crisis? These checks are not difficult or time consuming, and stand to save you harming your wallet! It now sounds like homework time, and if this were mine, I would be seeking out a trusted local diesel specialist, and get the car transported to them for assessment - if you feel you don’t have reasonable grounds to claim on the original engine rebuilders. I can only wish you well in sorting this out, with the minimum cost and inconvenience. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello, Could you inform the forum what grade of steel yours are made from? Kind regards, Gareth.

First simple port of call would be to get the battery efficiency checked - if only to eliminate this as a possible cause.

Thanks Keith, Yes, sounds like you understandably still have the problem. ‘...don’t think we have a solution just yet’. Perhaps you could come back to us when you have inspected the suggested areas. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Ava, But the Audi specialist you list is in Australia, and the original poster was in difficulties in the U.K! We’ll forget about the fact that he joined the forum, asked for advice and never returned after the day he joined, but....... Just wondered whether you have any connection with the company you refer to? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Keith from the north Homeland, Thanks for being in touch. Strange! I’m not claiming this is the cause, but it’s worth pulling back the fluted harness cover twixt the body and the tailgate, and carefully examining all the individual leads. This section of the harness takes a hammering with opening and closing of the tailgate, ams wires can break/partly break, and cause issues. At best, it’s a quick and easy elimination point to follow. Logic may suggest partly broken wires could be in better contact with the tailgate lifted. If all is well there, then I would suggest looking around the button area. Water ingress? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Kamran, Thanks for coming back with the very helpful additional information. If you had a valve guide/seal issue, then the smoke would be blue, not white-ish, so based on what you show us so far, personally, I would be discounting the current diagnosis. We are talking petrol not diesel here? If diesel white smoke is usually due to unburnt diesel ( with associated smell). If this is petrol engined, then if the white smoke isn’t simply condensation in the exhaust - as it often is - it can be caused by burnt coolant via. coolant entering one of the cylinders, but let’s not jump to conclusions here, before we have the result of the test I suggested. Two points to reinforce:- Drive the car for at least 15 miles before carrying out the test. When your assistant holds the revs at a steady 2000rpm, make sure that steady rev. is maintained for at least 2 minutes while you observe the exhaust smoke and assess whether there is anything excessive or variable. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Is the car using any coolant?

Hello Z? I don’t have any good reason to have allegiance to main dealers, and yes, plugging the car into sophisticated diagnostics equipment is indeed an easy way to make big money - as you say. But Z, if it’s that simple, why aren’t we all buying the expensive equipment, paying for updates, setting ourselves up in workshops, paying the local authority many tens of thousands of pounds in rates, employing technicians - and hey presto, making a fortune! If only Z! Then of course - what price is experienced diagnosed opinion? How much does a short private consultation for medical issues cost these days? Anyway, Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ross, Battery make? If the battery retains its voltage when disconnected, then you have a parasitic drain, and I would strongly advise using the services of an auto electrician to find the offending circuit - unless you are equipped with the knowledge (and suitable meter) to do it yourself. Kind regards, Gareth.

OK Ross - the story has now changed from the car starts, to the car doesn’t alway start. Different diagnosis then! Detail is king when trying to diagnose anything at a distance. So indeed it sounds as if something is wrong, and the indicated efficiency is probably not at fault. If this were mine, I would be getting the car checked for a parasitic drain i.e. checking what current the car battery is drawing when the car is fully locked up and immobilised. This should be measured after at least a minute after the car has been locked up, to ensure the system has ‘set’. Ideally, the current draw should be not much over 50mA. I would not be entrusting this to a local garage, but to a trusted local auto electrician. If the current draw is more than that, then it’s a question of isolating each circuit in turn until the offending circuit is found. More detail later if necessary. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. ‘......changed battery under warranty..’. What make battery was the ‘old’ one, and what make has now been fitted?

Hello Kamran, Thanks for being in touch. What colour smoke are we talking here? When you carried out the full service, what grade and brand of oil did you use - and what brand of filter was used? Re smoke and keeping the car running for a year or so as it is:- This will depend on the severity of the smoke, and it’s effect on emissions at MOT time. Would I be guessing you bought it with a new MOT? You could carry out the following test:- Ensure oil and water levels are up to their marks when cold, then take the car on a 15 mile run to ensure the oil I’d fully up to operating temperature. Immediately on return, leave the car idle for at least a couple of minutes, then get an assistant to rev. the car at a steady 2000rpm while you observe any initial smoke emission. If initially visible and excessive, continue to hold that rev for at least another couple of minutes and observe whether the initial smoke disappears and whether any other smoking subsequently occurs. Report back to the forum. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Mark, Thanks for coming back. Yes, if it were mine, I would certainly be registering a formal complaint with Audi UK, and state that you require a response within 2 weeks. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ross, Logic would suggest that the reading is incorrect. Possible to recalibrate it via. plugging it into some sophisticated kit? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Mark, Thanks for being in touch. I too would be dissatisfied with the issue you have with the passenger side seatbelt, and let’s hope a forum member with the same model year will respond and give some comparison. If this were mine, I would be wanting to progress this by escalating the issue, rather than accepting what you have been told. Of course, the car is under warranty, and Audi have the responsibility for proving there isn’t anything wrong with the car. My ports of call would be to search for another another dealer who has a similar model on stock, and show an interest in the car and make an appointment to view - assuming this is Covid possible. Obviously you will then establish whether that one is the same. It is worth bearing in mind, and pointing out as necessary that these cars are designed for the mass left hand drive market, and not the minority RHD, so you are really talking the normal driver side belt operation in real terms. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Ross. Now you will have to pardon my ignorance, but what actually reads 10% on your model? A battery condition/efficiency gauge? Irrespective of what this reading indicates, if a battery reliably turns the engine over at a speed adequate to start the car, then we must suspect the ‘gauge reading’ rather than the battery itself. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ross, Irrespective of the old battery reading being low, did the car actually start OK? Also does the car start Ok with its new battery? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Phil, Thanks for being in touch. Not wanting to be unhelpful, but the answer to your very valid concerns rests with the supplying dealer, and obviously must be covered by the warranty. If this were mine, I would be booking this is for investigation and asking for a Covid-acceptable road run to demonstrate the issue. Perhaps you would be kind enough to come back to the forum to let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Anthony, The all important question here is - who serviced the car for you ? Audi were/are still recommending the use of Quantum Longlife 3 where vehicles are serviced on the Longlife schedule. GTX? As a matter of interest, what brand of oil filter ( and air and pollen filter) has been used? Kind regards, Gareth.

I don’t see this as an issue, since they are likely to trace it through the VIN. Repeating :- Just to save you a return journey - V5 and some proof of your identity. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Nellie, Blinking heck, now you tell me after I have written all that! Only joking. Make sure you read the small print, and dare I say, the large print in your case. Small print contains large detail. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Kevin, Are you talking about print outs for a car you own? If so, this should be simple via. a trip to your local dealer, armed with a copy of the V5 and prof of identity. If for a car you are interested in buying, this is more difficult I think. If this is the case, are we talking about a car for sale in your locality? Generally, dealers are reluctant to divulge service history to anyone other than the registered owner, or I guess ‘current keeper’ if the car is currently held on sale by a dealer. If it’s main dealer sale then obviously this should be a problem. I think you need to give us more detail Kevin. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Nellie, I think you are right in questioning (everything) before signing anything. When you say you are picking the car up next week, we must assume that you have already signed something which links your name as a customer, to order a car for delivery. If you believed your were buying the car on PCP but now think it’s ‘purchase’ will be via. HP, then either the dealer hasn’t explained the mode of purchase in a way in which it has been adequate for you to understand, or you (understandably) simply don’t understand it. So at this point, you are wise in taking a step backward and doing some homework before signing any contract. If I were in your position, I would be first asking questions at the dealership - worth writing down what concerns you so you don’t forget to ask something which is important. Obtain a draft copy of what you will be expected to sign, and study it. My next port of call would be Audi UK and seek clarification on anything you are not absolutely sure about. Third port of call - CAB - armed with you draft copies, and answers to you homework questions, and seek their advice. Finally, if you are still unhappy/confused about anything, then delay collection and signing until you are fully equipped with the answers to all the questions which concern you. Yes, I know they will tell you you have a cooling off period, but better not to get yourself in the hot water in the first place. As I say, I think you are being wise at this stage. Kind regards, Gareth.

Wesley, bless him, has not returned to the forum since he last posted his request for assistance, so no one benefits from his progress, or the worth of the forum’s advice.

Hello Zee, The fact that the brake pad light has come on, is not good news in terms of the car’s maintenance history. Most main dealers or independents will normally advise pad renewal at the time of service, if they believe the limit will be reached before they next service the car. Anyway, yours need renewing, and I notice you are seeking advice on alternative ‘OE’ pads. The question I need to ask is why not use genuine Audi replacement ones? Would I be far out if I guessed the words ‘want cheaper ones’? If so Zee, then I would question your long term logic, by wishing to do a cheaper fix. Why risk alternatives? Story:- Our humble A3 had it’s first set of replacement pads of aftermarket OE ones. Within weeks of bedding these in, it was obvious that the brakes were nowhere as sharp as they were, and we decided to throw these away, and to revert to genuine VAG ones. Braking efficiency returned to normal. Now at 160K, this car has never had anything other than VAG brake pads, and the brakes still impress. Lesson learned as far was we are concerned. Audi pads at discount? You could try Audi Parts Direct at Cardiff ( part of Cardiff Audi/ Mon Motors) - no personal connection, or you could try TPS. Kind regards, Gareth. Are you going to replace the discs? If the price of Audi discs frightens you, you could try Brembo.

Thanks Cliff. I can’t hear it at all! By what you say cliff - similar to a loose/ flapping engine undershield perhaps? Just another guess! Kind regards, Gareth.