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Wheel clamps and steering wheel locks are effective at preventing complete theft of the car, but extremely inconvenient to fit, remove, and store. Nor will they stop pikeys ripping the expensive catalytic converters off the underside of the car. Probably the best security is to lock the car in a garage, but that isn't available to many folk.

Hi a new EGR will not cure the problem, you have to check the ASH levels and soot, but in saying that if the ash levels are high it wont regenerate anyway as ash cannot be burnt off, my guess is your EGT sensors are duff and not supplying the ECU with the correct temperature to initiate a regen therefore the DPF just blocks up, the other thing that causes this effect is the DPF pressure sensor, therefore you are better served replacing EGT and pressure sensors, BUT not before checking the DPF ash levels the ash limit is 60% anywhere near that and it needs taking off and cleaning or replacing [expensive] , in essence no amount of sensor replacement will cure high ash content. Steve.

Hi, there lies the problem, most of these mobile people, Techs shall we call them, arrive and plug in take your money and clear off, normally they are considered cheaper than say a static remap company, which they are they have no premises to pay for and often as not have just a basic software program and not the same tailored software platform as for example Blufin, if you buy from them they will go through extensive questioning of what you expect and then give you realtime options of what you can realistically achieve as per the milage on the vehicle, you then get a loading device and its normally a ten minute job to load it via the OBD port, all of their software programs are checked for quality before they get to the end user and the advantage of their system is that you can upload the mapping back out, yes these types of companies are more expensive but what you get is bullet proof technology. If the mapping is working ok just buy another EGR valve and fit it and leave it there, if you block it in another few months you will probably start getting some more codes/lights as the ECU will have worked out there is no gas flow and thats why the EGR is not sending it any data to tell it when the valves open/closed because the valve is jammed in a ton of soot where its backed up past the blanking, mapping out changes the command protocol and tells it to stay shut, the other down side is my mate did it on his transit and over miles the red hot gass melted the blanking plate and allowed the super heated gas into the engine bay which in turn melted the fan housing at the front, remapping is a multi faceted industry and if you go mad with it power wise it causes horrendous and expensive problems which I have personally witnessed on some occasions, it comes down to the old saying, IF YOU WANT FAST,BUY FAST, believe me its cheaper in the long run. Steve.

Broken wires in the rubber bellows between door and frame are a common cause of this problem.

Well, this morning I got the car warmed up and the ATF temperature was reading 40deg after a painful 35minutes of idling while periodically slowly going through the gears. While the engine was still running I unscrewed the fill plug and was able to get another 200-300ml of ATF fluid before it came dripping back out. So with roughly 5.8ltrs of ATF back in it I took her for a spin and she was faultless, gears changed quickly and smoothly regardless of what drive mode I was in, even manual shifts. So I'm going to take that as job done. Thankfully the rear diff only took 5min to change the oil.

Error codes are generally only visible to a code reader plugged into the OBD port. Few of them are translated into warnings within the car.

Good afternoon David, Your recommendation was very good. The website were helpful and responded quicker than most. But I've now decided to not proceed as the installation instructions were up to 19 pages long. It's clear and easy to follow, but I don't feel confident or able to take the risk of getting the installation wrong. Because the installation requires working in the Engineering Menues, for me the the risk of getting it wrong is too high. I'm sure for others who have more experience with working in this are, this won't be a problem. Kind regards Tom

mate has the wheel clamp also just seen this

Glad to hear it's all sorted 👍

Thank you for your response Gareth. I only hear it when going over bumps or pot holes. I never thought to try it in neutral and I'll take on board what you say about silicone for the sliders rather than copper. The backing plates are solid but that's the kind of metallic sound that I am hearing and it's the first thing I checked after repairing the exhaust heat shields. I'll get on what you've recommended this weekend and respond straight away. Thankyou again ❤

Hi all, an update to, what I thought was an interior light issue..... but alas there isn't a fault as I first thought. As Mark M suggested in his post above in relation to the rain/headlight sensor on the front windscreen. He was "bang on" in his logic. No mention in any manual, site , forum etc has there been a mention of such a topic of interior lights connected to the ambient side of things. Thanks to all for replying, much appreciated 👏 👊

The pad wiring will join the same loom as the ABS speed sensor I'd have thought. The pad sensor is straight-forward wiring and usually disappears behind the wheel arch liner or into the main chassis near the front subframe.. Once there's a break continuity it will illuminate. Scanning the car on VCDS will provide a little information. I can't remember if there's a pad warning on rear discs - possibly.

Not sure if it uses it, but the rain/light sensor for the auto headlights is behind the interior mirror and can be seen from outside the car. Just wondering if covering that sensor in the daytime would make make the car think it's night and activate the interior lights, remove the cover and if the lights go off you have your answer.

I do hope so.