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Info credited to Harry Joynes: Hey everyone. Just thought I’d share my hunt for slightly pulsing brakes at low speed and a vibration in the seat at 50mph plus. After much searching the internet it lead me to a wheel bearing however I was thinking warped rear discs. I changed the fronts that stopped the steering wheel shake when braking I thought today I’d just take the wheels and docs off to see if there was anything noticeable and there it was. The hubs between the discs were corroded and pushing the whole lot ever so slightly off straight. Cleans all faces up and now it drives like a dream. Just a free thing to do if anyone is experiencing similar issues. Little before and after pic.

Thank you

Ross-Tech is VCDS, available from Gendan. Starts around £225 for USB dongle and lifetime updates for 3 VIN licence. You’ll need an old laptop to run it on. When you scan the car then VCDS reads all the modules and you can clear DTC codes if present, then rescan. It the DTC fault remains (it lists priority and when it first occurred), then there’s a physical fault, mechanical or electrical and it will need resolved. I moved away from main dealers years ago. They are £180 an hour and most of the techs these day lack the investigative nouse to diagnose and instead work from an Audi technical script or throw the parts cannon at it in the hope it resolves the issue. First thing would be to scan the car, ensuring battery is in top condition. These cars are sensor heavy, so any drop in power will throw up an issue. Regards parking sensors, not unusual to have a defective one. They are made by Valeo. It’s plug and play, clear faults and see if that resolves it. Normally front bumper off to fit (easier than you think). You can swap sides too. No coding as such to calibrate. Certain components are security protected, such as certain second hand parts, MMI, ECU, etc. That needs dealer level ODIS to remove. If you’re not particularly tech savvy you can post error codes on Ross Tech forum and wait for a response.

Due to 3G being shutdown so the MMI 3G+ no longer functioning as it used to, I've been searching for a way of getting Android Auto installed. Lots of places offer to provide the parts, or will fit at their premises, but very few offer an "at home" fitting service. "Simon" from "Autologics" (see previous recommendation) put me in touch with "Adam" from "RetroFit Cars" - [email protected]; https://www.retrofitcars.co.uk He does both, and did the job exceedingly well in a couple of hours, traveling from London to Wiltshire to do the work on my drive, all in cost £650.00 with a 12 month guarantee. Very pleased with the quality of work, his teach-in instructions on how to use it, and it is working very nicely indeed. So big thank yous to "Simon" from "Autologics", and "Adam" from "RetroFit Cars" Very satsified customer and Highly Recommended by me.

Magnet thanks for the suggestions. my sensible car has always been a Toyota RAV4 and the Audi my “Fun” car. The Toyota garage is a small independent and as I’ve been going there for 30 years and bought new from them they have agreed to look at my car to see if they can identify where the water is coming from. I will update this thread with any solution I find in case it is of use to anybody.

Suspension and water leak won’t be linked, it will be coincidental. Does car have sunroof, if so check drain channels at the front. They exit above the door hinge. More likely is blocked plenum channels behind the bulkhead. The is where the wiper motor sits. There’s rubber grommets that are badly designed for a northern hemisphere climate, that eventually block. Decent torch, remove plastic windshield cowl to see.

Thanks Magnet . More info as you suggested. Have owned car since 2017. It's in reasonable condition bodywise , has full leather seats and factory sunroof. Head lining needs replacing but otherwise interior good .Front end accident damage in 2021 - bonnet radiator and headlights replaced .Good deal of work done on engine in 2022 with rocker gaskets and oil seals replaced , new timing belt ,water pump and coolant hoses . Has now got fresh oil leak and plastic heater core tail has broken up. Needs someone with a workshop and the necessary skills to fix it. Believe not many examples left , so hoping someone is interested in preserving it rather than it being broken and / or scrapped. Love this car ,so it's not about money , it's about finding the old girl a new home .

I have a 2013 TTRS, no spare. Not a good situation Here is what I did. Get a 2008-2013 Audi A5 compact spare, outside diameter is close to the 19 inch wheels on the car. Tire size is T125/70R19 I removed the left side foam, the Sirius radio box ( which I did not use), wrap the wires with foam to stop rattling and push behind the left cover On the right foam, cut a small amount at the top right, and cut out part of the horizontal section so that the wheel can drop lower Make a hold down, I used a 1/2" diameter round bar 1 3/4" long, tapped 5/16" NC. Get a 5/16" nut, solder on a flat washer. The 13mm wrench in the tools will fit the 5/16" nut. Get a small rubber grommet to put under the section of the hold down that sticks out of the horizontal round section, so that it does not flop around. Cut a small section of the horizontal lip of the cover on the rear of the trunk, so that the wheel will drop over the raised section of the floor, line up the wheel bolt hole with the hold down support. The hold down rotates into the slot in the floor in a clockwise direction, using 1/2" round bar will lock it in place Get a jack, I used from a Jetta I think, I had to cut off the tab so that it would fit into the slot under the car. I wrapped mine is some vinyl, it fits under the spare in place Get some adaptor rings, the centre hole on the wheel is 66.5 mm, you need a 57.1 to 66.5 mm ring. I used epoxy and a clamp to stick the ring into the centre hole I cut the foam that held the tools in the left foam, put in place of the tire sealant, and I put the wrench into a slot on the right foam after cutting a small amount out. I put a bit of foam under the wrench handle so that it woudl not rattle. I kept the compressor in place The spare wheel will drop into place, lift the front when putting in to get it all in place The cover fits over, it is about 3/4" higher than it was originally. I had tried the A5 spare on the rear wheel of the car before I started the modifications, works perfectly I realize this is not the most elegant solution, but the peace of mind to have a spare is worth the approximately $110 and 1 1/2 days that it took to do this. If I have a flat on a front tire, I will have to do some juggling, better than being without a 19 inch tire if it gets severe damage

There is something else you need to look at. In Canada, corrosion is a severe issue, and putting a non-sieze compound on the wheel hub and disc face is standard good practice. However, the aluminum of the caliper corrodes around the bushings that the pins slide on, causing restriction to movement, so that the brake caliper does not move freely. This can cause you to chase an issue with the disc, and not find the solution. There are 2 bushings, you can knock them out, clean the caliper holes with a round wire brush, and install new bushings with lots of silicone grease. There is a soft bushing and a harder one, make sure you note which goes where.