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Thanks guys

If ever there was a job for a Victorian street urchin - then this is it. Faced similar issue on cars including BMW i3 and VW Polo Mk 6. At least with BMW - the engineers designed a solution o the wheel-arch liner access hatch. Basically, lift car and remove inner wheel arch liner on your car. Pretty sure that's how it's done. You'll need Torx driver, possible some plastic 10mm nuts too.

Usual culprits are heater matrix, plenum drain (bulkhead below windscreen). Also heard the rear vents behind the bumper (helps equalise pressure when doors are shut) can be possible entry points. Lift the carpet as much as you can and get a wet and dry vacuum in there. Lift rear boot cover and check the area is dry there.

I have actually tested pyro for continuity and it has it. I'm currently in the process of digging out my old vcds to scan, hopefully this may help further. I also have a spare bcm1 incase this could resolve. When I removed.bcm2 I lose everything. When I disconnect bcm1 every stays as it is, so as kind of a process of discrimination I bought one to rule it out ... Or.ideally fix

The car's demands for servicing are supposedly calculated from the sort of driving it has done. Ignore those demands and Audi will, rightly or wrongly, have an excuse to void the warranty.

Coding the battery means to programme the charging system for the type and capacity of the new battery to ensure it is charged at the correct rate. It is done with a computer gadget plugged into the car, and is not something the average owner would do himself. It's the sort of job best left to a professional because of the equipment cost. Unless the coding is done it is possible for the new battery to be damaged. I am curious to know how you are measuring the battery strength as a percentage. The meters I am familiar with give readings in volts not percent. You have not mentioned the extra electrical equipment I asked about, nor any diagnostic work.