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Hi the B6 is about the best compromise as they work with either conventional ride hight or factory lowered just remember to release the piston from its transport strap and push it all the way down and let it return at least six times to prime the monotube system as these work differently from twin tube, yes the rear sub frame has voids but you can get around this by using a product called Bilt Hamber, they do a range of rust removal and rust proofing, it ain't cheap but its top notch, my friend did his 1981 Porsche 911 with it a few years ago and it definitely works, with regard to the bushes poly is easier to fit but gives more road resonance when fitted and will take at least two years to calm down and bed in to an acceptable level, a very wise engineer I met that looked after racing cars at Snetterton once told me if you want good handling on a road car use standard heavy duty springs and stiffer shocks and a good branded rubber bush, if you get a new frame just change the bushes for peace of mind and bare in mind how long the originals last, use Meyle or Lemforder, if your mate is bringing power tools for the brakes tell him to not use them until you have the bolt moving which requires a blowtorch and plenty of plus gas anti seize and patience as these threads will ring out given half a chance, if you consider the amount of heat a calliper works with you can't realistically overheat them, once off I would replace the units anyway in view of the fact that 90% of callipers are refurbished even the dealer units. and bolt wise invest in a Sealy Wall Drive sockets as that system will never round the the bolts off as it grips the flat sided bit of the bolt. Steve.