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Apologies for the gripe, but the forum has recently suffered from a spate of what can be termed ‘Post and Run’ new members, who seem to think it’s perfectly acceptable to post a plea for help, and simply not return to view the help given. In a more diluted form, help is offered, but is very rarely acknowledged even via. a simple press of the Like button, leave alone a posted Thank You. The last part of the gripe is that we frequently have to ask for additional information, and this extra detail often never materialises. Please remember, everyone who posts replies do so without payment, but it certainly does cost them in time - in terms of the Moderators and Admin back up - a lot of time. So a special plea to all on here who post needing help:- please be respectful enough to acknowledge any help given, rather than simply accept it as a no-cost, no time of yours, free advice service. It’s wearing thin folks, so if you want to retain this service, please respect and acknowledge its benefits. Thank you all for reading this, and above all, agreeing to adhere to the respect that is needed to be shown. Kind regards, On behalf of the Moderators. Please note:- This request is to all members, not just new ones.

Noticed my rear light bar has started delaminating in half a dozen places no outside impact damage it’s coming from inside the unit Audi immediately offered to change this under warranty just a heads up to see if yours is ok as they cost around 1600 quid to buy IMG_8669.mov IMG_8669.mov IMG_8669.mov

Hi Raj, In terms of the gearbox, though Audi say it's a lifetime gearbox, there is actually no such thing. I've read that when asked what it means, Audi state that it means lifetime of the gearbox, not lifetime of the car itself. As such, I'm an advocate of servicing the DSG regardless of it supposedly being lifetime as Audi say. I personally aim to do it every 40,000 miles or 4 years (make sure to get the transmission fluid AND mechatronic fluid changed). You'll notice the gear changes are much much smoother. In terms of your shock absorber, I used KYB once and personally not a fan, though I've heard it's a decent brand from others. The ride was too bumpy for my liking. Do not buy from Audi unless you're happy to pay extremely inflated prices. I use AVS Car Parts (vwspares.co.uk) for my car parts and they supply OEM equipment. Give them a ring. You cannot go wrong with Sachs shock absorbers which are the ones that likely came on the car originally. Don't forget it's recommended to do both shocks so that the ride is consistent (also if 1 has gone, likely the other will be going soon).

Dear fellow members, It's about time I wrote to you all. We've said goodbye to the car and I write to say goodbye to you. I contacted a firm in Walsall specialising in left hand drive vehicles. I got the impression it was one man and a couple of sons. Anyway just as I looked forward to some time working on its kerb appeal, the man rang to announce their imminent visit to the Northwest. "Yes, come to us too", said I, and suddenly it was all over. We were left clutching a few hundred pounds, he left hoping to find a Spaniard needing a bargain in which to get home. Perhaps a prospective buyer was already identified (given the haste). Anyway, we're not expecting complaints: as you all know, an Audi of that vintage will just keep on going. However, I am going. Thanks, best wishes and goodbye to all who submitted comments and or advice, yours sincerely Peter Wight

South West Caves & Caverns Road Trip 🚗🕳️ This road trip takes you through some of the most incredible caves and caverns in South West England, from prehistoric sites to hidden coastal caves. Perfect for history lovers, adventure seekers, and geology enthusiasts! 📍 Clearwell Caves, Gloucestershire 🏞️⛏️ 📍 Cheddar Gorge & Caves, Somerset 🏔️🦴 📍 Wookey Hole Caves, Somerset 🧙‍♀️🕳️ 📍 Beer Quarry Caves, Dorset 🏰🪨 📍 Kent’s Cavern, Torquay 🦴🌍 📍 Carnglaze Caverns, Cornwall 🌊✨ 📍 Merlin’s Cave, Cornwall 🏰🔮 Total Distance: 🚗 Approx. 250 miles

Just thought I'd share this link for replacing the window regulator in an A6 C5 as it's the most helpful one I've found. Very clear instructions and tells you which Torx bits and rivets you'll need. The whole process took me about two hours start to finish and I was taking my time to ensure everything was correct. Hope this helps anyone contemplating the same repair. How To: Replacing AUDI C5 RS6 Window Regulator!

I've just replaced the CCM in my A6 and this is the best video I've found for reprogramming the key fobs if you're fortunate enough to have two of them. Very clear instructions and worked first time for both of my key fobs with no messing around. The reprogramming information starts at 9:00 but the rest of the video may be useful to anybody that needs to repair their key fob. https://youtu.be/RyNpeZUJtsc

My understanding is that they should operate on demand in any mode except efficiency.

Raj. Audi recommendations in respect of cambelt and water pump have changed over the years so it is not surprising you can not get consistent answers from dealers. Personally I stuck to the old suggestion of 70000 miles. Nobody suffered an engine failure by servicing it ahead of schedule. When it comes to the gearbox you are on your own. You are pushing more power through it and the rest of the transmission than normal, so you can not rely on normal service recommendations. Yet again, nobody suffered a gearbox failure by servicing it ahead of schedule.

I doubt it is an electrical or sensor fault because the electrical system is off when the car sags. It is more likely to be an air leak from the bag, valves, or pipe. I would spray or brush soapy water on all the components and watch for bubbles.

Sent it to ecu testing and think it was about £250 + vat

Hi,new here but 4 years a member of the A2OC.As you can see,I have a 1.4 petrol SE and recently acquired the red 1.6 fsi SE,currently Sorn-ed.Its been stood a while,only just got it on and off the trailer!Will be pestering people for advice on it soon,lol.

My pleasure. If it ain't broke, don't fix it (had to learn that the hard way). A service regen isn't risk free as there's been occasional stories of service regens melting the DPF. If the car is not causing issues, drive happily and worry free; let the ECU worry about the active regens as it should. Long distance driving will allow for passive regen.

2004 Audi A4 1.9 TDI Sport (B6) - £1500 Registered: May 2004 Previous Owners: 4 Current Owner: Since May 2013. Transmission: 6 Speed Manual Fuel: Diesel Colour: Metallic Blue Interior: Grey Leather/Suede. Mileage: 155’664 BHP: 130 MOT: 06/12/2025 Service History: Full service carried out by specialist 05/12/2024 (serviced yearly by Audi dealership or specialist). Timing Belt changed 08/12/2023. Tax: £240 Location: Wolverhampton/Birmingham Additional Details: Selling as will be getting a company car soon, still looks and drives great for its age, does an 80-mile round trip going down the motorway every few weeks with no problems. Comes with factory fitted 18” alloys (inc. spare), 2 keys, manuals, original and new service book, HPI clear and all MOT certificates and invoices since 2013, with full service carried every year since then (plus oil and filter changes in between at approx. 3000 miles during 2013 and 2018 when driven 10K+ miles a year). One minor incident impacted the front passenger side door, chose to replace door through insurance on 17/10/2016. Paintwork generally in good condition, some bubbling and a couple of spots of rust, no leaks or mechanical problems, and all electrics working, but aircon needs recharging and some minor issues as expected for a 21-year-old car as follows: Crack on the windscreen (has passed MOT’s) Rip on the driver’s seat Glovebox stuck (can open via the side) Airbag light stays on MOT advice notes: Nearside Front Tyre worn close to legal limit/worn on edge Front Sub-frame corroded but not seriously weakened Front Anti-roll bar linkage pin or bush worn but not resulting in excessive movement Rear Registration plate deteriorated but not likely to be misread Rear Sub-frame corroded but not seriously weakened Price reflects the above, but as those in the know can verify, this 1.9 TDI engine is very economical and an absolute workhorse, so still has plenty of life left in it!

Fit whatever capacity is recommended by the manufacturer, but please ensure you install a good quality battery. Varta and Exide are two names that come to mind, though there are others whose names escape me. Avoid like the plague any cheapie from the internet or the likes of KwikFit.

But you have already changed the oil filter without improvement. Function is the operative word!

Just buy a new level sensor James.

Thanks Spartacus that’s exactly what I thought have bought some springs and covers of a well known auction site so let’s hope they fit, thanks for the help

Check exhaust clamps, and flexi (if one is fitted) these can corrode and what you’re smelling is fumes from engine bay. Also auxilliary drive belt, a seized clutch drive pulley, etc.

Hey Ahmei - I had to get RAC to tow our Q5 to the nearest Audit garage. Needed a full steering rack replacement which cost £1.4k . Took them 48 hrs to sort out at the garage. Unfortunate but don't think I had a choice as it wasn't related to the battery. All the best.

thats sound advice Syed

Keep on top of servicing is half the battle. That said, things can go wrong. I think your SOS button is bit of an anomaly and hopefully a one off, but that said I was reading about the light bar on a 2022 Q8 delaminating, and that was a £1,500+ repair, luckily under warranty. If it gives you peace of mind, take out the warranty. Just double-check conditions. I had a non Audi 2 year warranty on my 2017 B9 Avant, and it stipulated services every 6 months which is unrealistic. I now service the car myself and had the Tiptronic gearbox serviced too, Audi would have said leave it.

Scrutinise the exclusions very very carefully. Most of these policies are not worth the paper they are written on.

Bit of information for anyone with electrical issues that seem to be most likely down to broken wires in the A pillar loom. The symptoms I had (all on the passenger side) were No door open displayed on the dashboard No footwell lights No puddle lights No door edge red light Door lock button not working with central locking Power windows and speakers were working fine. Everything was pointing to broken wires in the A pillar loom but after a lot of checking visually and with a multimeter everything seemed to be fine on that front. Spent a few hours searching the internet and found a lot of topics suggesting the problem was with the door closed sensor on the lock actuator. Installed a new one this morning and all the problems are cured, worth a try if anyone's having similar problems and has ruled out any other issues. By the way, I did see a few guides on repairing the existing lock but it seems like a fair bit of faffing around for something that isn't guaranteed to work. My new actuator came in at £23 delivered from EBay and works perfectly so that seems the best option to me.

Brandon. In your position I would not be worrying about a wiper/washer repair when the engine does not work. The engine problem could be far more expensive to solve so surely it would make sense to solve that first?

Glad to read the problem was non existant. However I believe you still need to code the new battery to the car despite maintaining 12 volts during the swap.

Hi Stevey Y, Thanks for your response. Indeed, I'm sure I did, but I believe I only changed the last digit & not the last 3. I've now learned that about the serial number, so that will come in handy. 🙂 I don't believe you can on my A4 B8 as it's non-UDS. You can only enter 10 or 11 digit part number, 1 or 2 spaces, the battery manufacturer, 1 space and then the 10 digit serial number. Yes, me too, but every battery supplier, aside from Tanya, suggested a 70Ah 760A battery, so I went by popular suggestion. As I said to cliffcoggin above, it wasn't until my engine continued to fail to start after I'd installed the A7 battery that I looked further into the suggestion of using the cars 'starter battery', which I learned was a 92Ah 520A. This is when I posted as above. Apologies, I should have clarified that I changed the pump in the tank around 3 years ago, less than 12k miles ago, for a new Bosch pump, so that shouldn't be an issue. I haven't physically tested it, which I will do tomorrow, but it's making all the right noises, at all of the right times and instances. There is a simple way to test the flow of that low pressure pump, by disconnecting from the HPFP and adding a plastic 500ml bottle; it should reach around 1/3 full when opening the door and after emptying, it should reach a little under 2/3 full when pressing the key. So watch this space on that. Thanks again, Paul.

That's good to know

Looks great. Good to hear no additional coding was required.

Picked her up today and I’m chuffed . Especially with the colour . Will hopefully get some better pics up but here’s a quick snap 🙂 u did spec the Audi beam puddle lights but dont seem to have them ? Checked the mmi setting and exterior lights is enabled so not sure about that ?

Changed The CCM this afternoon and reprogrammed both key fobs... winner winner chicken dinner! Feeling quite pleased with myself. I'd already sorted the water ingress so that should be fine now, the old CCM definitely didn't look happy sat in it's puddle. Two more jobs to take care of, broken wires in the passenger A pillar loom, and driver's window regulator. Off work until Sunday so I'm hoping for a couple of dry days.

Hi Spartacus thanks for the input, yes it was strange I even asked my partner if she had sabotaged the car as I couldn't understand the sudden fault. I wasn't given a report Cliff or any indication of the remaining capacity the only feedback I recieved was that the battery was good.

Hey guys, wanted to share my solution here. My 06 2.0t A3 had an issue where it would crank and crank and crank but no start. Eventually I got it to stumble start and it was then running down on at least 1 cylinder. After giving it some gas it would finally clean up and then run fine. I did not immediately have a CEL, but when checking with an OBD2 reader I got these 5 codes, P0688 - ECM/PCM Power Relay Sense Circuit/Open P2149 - Fuel Injector Group B Supply Voltage Circuit/Open P0300 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected P0303 - Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected P0302 - Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected After some research here and online, no clear answers were given. I saw a lot of people replacing a lot of parts and spending money by blindly throwing parts at the car. When reading over the codes, I felt like most of them were "symptom" codes. The misfires are probably related to injector issues and the injectors not getting power is probably related to the PCM code. So I decided to replace my PCM relay, which in my car was not listed online or in the manual hardly anywhere. Here is a photo of the fusebox. The PCM relay is slot R1, circled in red. After replacing the PCM relay, my car is running properly without issue. Hope this helps someone :)

Thanks to all for the advice, all issues now resolved by replacing the right front level sensor!

Hi it has nothing to do with the braking bias and more to do with the pad material, one of the posters mentioned Audi fitting low dust pads, these are always noisy and a lot harder compound standard aftermarket pads contain more organic compounds which create more dust but generally make less noise. Steve.

Hi could well be a blocked/ failing PCV valve on the cam housing, not sure if you can replace the valve or its incorporated in to the cam cover. Short journeys a lot of the time wont do it any favours. Steve.

Mileage 47,921 Sadly selling as dad unable to drive anymore due to health issues. The car has 4 months MOT. Much loved car and would absolutely love another enthusiastic who can enjoy it as much as my dad did. Due to age alloys needs refurbishing.

I fully agree with Syed that no intervention is needed under normal driving usage.

Have a look at EBC products.

So, oil temperature is 73C but your water/coolant temperature gauge is sitting at just under 50C Possibly thermostat failed/stuck in the open position 🤷‍♂️

Sounds like you popped a fuse to me.

Hi all ive fixed the roof it was the bushed in the motor sticking i followed the video and now all working as it should

Ray. I have moved your question to a topic of its own to avoid conflicting responses in its original thread.

Hi All Audi members Having recently purchased a new q3 I wanted to fit a spare wheel kit. I thought this would be easy and just call the dealer I purchased the car from. Wrong!!! Audi have placed a bar on being able to sell a spare wheel kit or parts unless it is purchased with the car. As my car was new but not specified with these parts the parts system will not allow you so view the parts require using your reg or vin number. The Spare parts department at two dealers decline to be able to order the parts due to recent correspondence from Audi. After speaking to Audi customer services they confirmed that this is due to breaking emission laws. I will not give you my thoughts This site was a breath of fresh air and allowed me to be able to establish the parts required. The reason for this update is to make members aware of this situation and update part numbers. The foam insert required is now part number 83A-012-109-N Audi Q3 Foam tool compartment for spare wheel (they call it a 'bin'). and now costs £130.20. The other parts require are still the same and I purchased them all via the web as Audi delinked other than the foam which I was able to get from one kind dealer. Audi part numbers: A5QF-011-031-D Jack A5Q0-011-221 Jack crank arm A8N0-012-219 Wrench OEM space saver wheel (A83A-601-010-A) 145/85/18 I hope this helps any one looking for a kit. For reference my car is a Quattro with a sub woofer in the boot.

Yep you need to remove the door card and some of the trim around the window. I watched a video on you tube and replaced mine within an hour. It’s pretty easy. Just don’t rush getting the door card off or you’ll break the clips.

Thanks Gareth These look just what I'm looking for. I'll discuss these with the garage I use. Alan

This is the fourth time you have posted the same message without any explanation, which to me looks like spam. Either you post your solution on the forum or I will ban you.

Hi. Had a niggling problem with the right hand charge flap not wanting to close. When I did get it to closed and locked, it opened again when I unlocked the car. So a trip to the Main Dealer was needed. I was probably going to be told "you will have to book it in Sir, our next available time is July" .But, "hang on" the receptionist said I will get a techy to come out and have a look for you. Anyway 10 minutes later I am back on the road with a normally operating flap. The techy said the mechanism gets a bit sluggish sometimes. Probably a squirt of WD40 was used. I was so pleased with the service and in a state of euphoria I gave the techy a fiver. Tony

Heres a cool part I found on another page. It's a washer fluid tank cap that doubles as a funnel to prevent washer fluid spills. It's an OE part on some Skodas and fits right on. Just enough clearance to turn and open. Part number 000096706. Found mine on ebay for £9.

You are on the right path. Low data usage requests like weather and smart home integration go via the built-in Audi SIM (the one that's used for OTA map updates). All entertainment requests that consume more data (e.g. Amazon Music) require that a second wireless connection known as "APN2" is active. APN2 can be activated by: 1. Purchasing a data plan from Audi - https://audi.cubictelecom.com/en/; 2. Inserting an active SIM card into the APN2 SIM slot; or, 3. Connecting a phone that supports Bluetooth Remote SIM access profile (rSAP) to the infotainment system. Hope that helps.