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Apologies for the gripe, but the forum has recently suffered from a spate of what can be termed ‘Post and Run’ new members, who seem to think it’s perfectly acceptable to post a plea for help, and simply not return to view the help given. In a more diluted form, help is offered, but is very rarely acknowledged even via. a simple press of the Like button, leave alone a posted Thank You. The last part of the gripe is that we frequently have to ask for additional information, and this extra detail often never materialises. Please remember, everyone who posts replies do so without payment, but it certainly does cost them in time - in terms of the Moderators and Admin back up - a lot of time. So a special plea to all on here who post needing help:- please be respectful enough to acknowledge any help given, rather than simply accept it as a no-cost, no time of yours, free advice service. It’s wearing thin folks, so if you want to retain this service, please respect and acknowledge its benefits. Thank you all for reading this, and above all, agreeing to adhere to the respect that is needed to be shown. Kind regards, On behalf of the Moderators. Please note:- This request is to all members, not just new ones. p.s. Please avoid using non specific locations such as U.K., England etc. etc.

It seems my beloved Audi will live to drive another day. All that is wrong with it is the fuel injector sensor. Nothing wrong with fuel injector or the ECU, just the sensor.

I replaced the CCM in my '03 A6 C5 1.9TDI with one that had the identical part number a couple of months ago and it was completely plug and play. Your key fobs will need to be reprogrammed however, but it's a really quick and straightforward job if you have two. I posted a guide in the C5 forum that explains it step by step. Hope that helps you mate. Edit I've just noticed the CCM in your avant ends in an N and the saloon in a K, weirdly the one in my saloon is an N, go figure.

First of all I must thank you all for the imput into my Insurance woes. I have now received my new renewal quote from Admiral. It has come in a few pence short of £2k. Which I am more than happy about. So I go on another year driving my fabulous E-Tron GT. Tony

2 litres of oil in 1100 miles is truly extraordinary, and indicates significant wear of the pistons and/or bores. This is confirmed by your new revelation of excessive crankcase pressure, which is likely the cause of the oil loss. A crankcase gasket will not solve this problem. It's just possible that a new crankcase pressure control valve will help, but it's more likely that the engine has reached the end of its life. That will cost many thousands of pounds to sort out so it makes sense to get a firm diagnosis before making a decision on what to do. I suggest you find an independent VAG specialist rather than travelling to an Audi dealer. Here are two I found on an internet search. There are bound to be others. https://www.autohausedinburgh.co.uk/ https://www.hrmotors.co.uk/

A little update for others who may wonder the same; I’ve gotten it confirmed from the Audi dealer/importer here in Norway that my manual ‘13 A3 with the 1.4 TFSI CMBA engine does in fact not have a DMF but single mass. Ill be ordering a sachs clutch kit and swapping it out myself, seeing as the kit itself is only 220£ and I’ve been quoted from 1700 to 2500£ for just a clutch swap, which is insane in my opinion.

Thanks Robert, But you are assuming it was correctly serviced before you bought it at 2 years old and at 21k miles. In terms of seeking any contribution from Audi, then assumptions are simply meaningless. You will need to wander into an Audi dealer and request a print out copy of the on-line service history - and hope it was ‘serviced strictly to the book’. Now on to its servicing under your ownership, as was asked - could you now tell us about that, so we can better advise you?

Hi all, I've recently purchased a 2010 a6 Avant lemans 2l TDI 170hp so I thought I would join the owners club. Its the first car I've owned but I'm a mechanic on the side so I do most of my own maintenance. Already done 3000 miles in 2 months with plenty more on the way plus a European road trip later this summer. 45mpg average as i do mostly motorway runs + manual gearbox. Parts aren't too bad so far but the size takes getting used to with only rear sensors that are intermittent at best! Have a good one, Dan

Thank you. One day somebody will bless you for that information.

Hi I got a bit muddled, main failure is EPC. If you just have ESP it's a fault with the traction control and ABS. If it ESP then it could be a sensor at the wheels but you have both lights on the dash, it could be a faulty brake light switch on the pedal.

Hi all. Really sorry I forgot to post. This is how it went with Audi, Oldham. The technician told me that the diagnostic found no faults and that the issue was that I had deselected intelligent coasting in the MMI. He told me that he activated it again, drove up and down the motorway, and all is well. So…when I went to collect the car, and although I told him that the intelligent coasting mode had been switched off since new, he was adamant that this is what the issue was. Anyway, since being plugged in the diagnostic, and intelligent coasting off again, it’s back to normal !? I think a reset of the ‘brain’ of the car must have been done, but I wasn’t told that. in conclusion, when the electric charge is depleted, it shuts off the petrol engine into regen electric just as it should. The complete opposite to the issue I had, which was that the car never shut off the petrol engine, and instead decided to charge the battery, which resulted in sub 20 mpg for two weeks of driving. Again, sorry for this very late post and that I can’t be more helpful. Andrew

Thanks Gareth i am going to buy the full section this is how they are usually sold on eBay it also seems to be the cheapest option, the part number i am using for a comparison is from the driveshaft difficult to use part number from hub, no barcode or sticker part number. So I am buying the same part number driveshaft with the hub attached, I have now sourced and purchased one I’m hoping this will be the one. Fingers crossed. Thanks again for your response I appreciate it. Yes you would think that but no I am doing the hunting for the parts. Mine have been removed now so I am comparing parts via images and numbers but none seem to be exact.

I’m about 90% complete with this job now I’m just waiting on a replacement spring as one of the ones I was sent was incorrect. Ordered on Monday but still not here frustratingly. It’s went a lot better than I was expecting a few tricky bolts etc and don’t get me started on the electric connector for the headlight levelling sensor! Here are some pics of the progress: I was able to keep the callipers connected by firstly removing the shock and passing it under the upper control arm which saved a bit of time. it’s been quite satisfying renewing the rear end with new components, bolts etc. Here is a better picture of why I replaced my subframe in the first place: It was actually the same both sides. Word of warning treat your subframe now before it’s too late! Also I couldn’t figure out how to remove the bushes and the ones on the replacement subframe were far better than mine were so I will be sending those back. I will update here if I run into any alignment issues. At the moment the subframe is only partially fitted to allow the spring replacement.

Got the same engine in a 2017 A4 Allroad. The 3.0 TDI and Tiptronic 8-speed is wonderful to drive. Loads of low end torque. On A6, then you have air suspension as standard. Normally pretty bullet proof, but these cars are getting on a bit, so due diligence and all that. If you have access to VCDS, then worth scanning the car for any historic faults. This will be Euro 6, so have AdBlue, DPF and EGR. Use premium diesel and don't do short start stop journeys. Make sure nothing has been deleted. Suspension wise, if over 100k miles check advisories on previous MOTs. Upper arm and front lower trailing arms (hydra bushes). Check all the toys work. Sat Nav will likely need update, and potentially need air con regas. History is critical, so that's oil changes every 5-8k miles, 10k miles at a push. Rear diff gear oil change by 100k miles and ZF make service kit for transmission. Personally I'd do by 8 years or 80k miles. Check bodywork, but normally age well with very little rust. Rear subframes known to get crusty, so wash down and coat with Lanoguard. Not aware of issues with panoramic sunroof if fitted. B8 A4 platform was different and plagued with issues. Clean out drain channels. Specific grease from VW to lube guides, although expensive.

febi bilstein 48801 Pressure Reservoir for vaccum system

Too late, foots already off!

If you have had the DPF delete then was the sensor mapped out too? I do not think this would be the case as the two sensors work as a pair. I would also of thought that an out of range reading will give you an error on sensor fail even where the pressures are not as if read from a legitimate DPF. If the MAF is good then I would explore changing the pressure sensor - I have lost my notes on it but the fault was an "improbable" reading.

It's unfortunate that nobody here has been able to help Stuart, but please let us know of progress.

A little update for you guys. New clutch is fitted, spent about 12 hours all in with two people over two days. Went off without a hitch! Taking off the old clutch made the cause of the noise readily apparent; two of three metal straps holding the pressure plate together was broken! This caused a rough idle and an ungodly rattle with the clutch pedal depressed. Lifted the car by the gearbox side motor mount with an engine lifter and put it on tall jack stands, removed the battery and battery tray. Next we unbolted the wheel well cowling(?)/plastic and the lower control arm for the bushings on the drivers side (Norway so LHD not RHF) so we had space to pull the driveshaft out completely, right hand side driveshaft only need unbolting from the gearbox. After all the bits and bobs on the gearbox was out we dropped it from the bottom with one person underneath. This was a bit finicky but it was enough space to do it without too much trouble. Gearbox oil changed, new clutch slapped on. We didn’t have the tool to compress/pretension the pressure plate so we used a simple centering tool and gradually torqued the screws to 20nm in typical zig zag fashion. With me lying on a creeper/roller and the gearbox on my chest lifted the gearbox and mated it back to the engine with the other person standing above the engine bay and lifting from there. This wasn’t super easy, but a bit of finessing and manouvering of the gearbox did the trick. Highly recommend being two for this job, especially for the mounting and dismounting of the gearbox. The 12 hours includes coffee breaks, googling stuff and a trip to the local parts store. For the algorithm: This was done on a manual 2013 Audi A3 8V 1.4 TFSI CMBA 122bhp engine, gearbox code is MYF/0AJ.

Springs simply do not break when motionless, so it must be air suspension which is known to have problems with leaking bags, compressor failure and height sensor faults. If the car is undriveable it will have to picked up and taken away for repair.

The LT current flows from the contact breakers to the coil where it is transformed to HT. That HT current goes from the coil to the centre of the rotor arm in the distributor and thence to the spark plugs.

Looks like you've lost a wheel, somewhere on your drive! 😁

I don't understand why you would need new pistons unless yours in one of a small number of cars fitted with badly designed piston rings for a couple of years. That was well known problem which Audi reluctantly resolved by fitting new pistons under guarantee for many owners. (I doubt this a problem of simple wear at 98000 miles.) If yours is one of the affected cars then it will be consuming oil at an extraordinary rate, so please tell us what your oil consumption is.

Thanks for replies , going back to garage today , think it's just the way the drive shaft was reassembled after changing the cv joint . It's only happening on initial movement back and forward . No sound actually going into gear .

MOT until 02/26. I bought it from Yeovil Audi in 2013 with only one previous owner. All Audi main dealer history to 2022 then Fergies in Thatcham in 2023 and a local garage last week. It has done 120k. I'm looking for £5,590. The car is located in Reading, Berkshire. Features: AC & Climate Automatic headlights & wipers CD/Radio/Bluetooth/SatNav Cruise Control Front Heated seats Electric Heated Mirrors Leather Seats Parking Sensors 4x Electric Windows Xenon Headlights Note: there is minor cosmetic damage to the rear bumper and near-side rear wing. I can supply photos if required. I have plenty more photos if you are interested.

The car is now sold

So as I thought no screws in the slide out panels or under the triangle, just a load of push in clips that need a bit of gentle persuasion. I used a trim tool bought in readiness, Wetado 8 piece £9 on Amazon, to get the right hand side off first then just gently work all the clips out. The light and boot switch have a small push down clip to disconnect the wiring plug. The adapter for the wiper washer, picture attached is blocked

Ethan. Your frequent refilling and short journey make me confidant there has been no damage. No guarantees of course, but I would not be concerned if it was my car.

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂 It's definitely not an old man car. Regarding forums you'll find most of them will show the horror stories, as people don't come onto them when everything is working and good.

Hello all, Thank you for your help, and apologies for the late response. I got the car back yesterday—they’ve replaced the arms. I’ll be taking it to my friend’s garage to record a video of the post-repair condition and will share it here. There’s still a minor issue with the dashboard brake pad warning light. It remains on, even though the brake pads, discs, and sensor have all been replaced. The mechanic wasn’t able to resolve it and mentioned it’s likely related to the wiring, requiring an electrician. The dealer has agreed to arrange one. If anyone has experience with this issue or knows what might be causing the light to stay on, I’d appreciate any insights. After that’s sorted, I’ll also be getting the belt replaced as a precaution—it’ll cost around £200. The last belt change was 9 years ago when car mileage was 51k Kind regards,

Thanks will have a look .

I had the MAF sensor changed and a fault lit up again, did a little research and found that there is a pressure sensor for the DPF. Located tot he rear right of the engine - top. I recall mine was about £28 from Euro Car Parts and a 10 minute fit.

Wife drove the car today when the alternator not charging message displayed on the dashboard and the steering got heavy. Crank shaft pulley rubber dampener had sheared off throwing the auxiliary belt off. Quite easy to replace it’s held on with 8 multi spine bolts but needs a pry bar and a gentle work on both sides to get the old one off. You need a slightly bigger multi spline socket for the auxiliary belt tensioner to pull it back to get the bolt on and can all be done from above. Quite a common thing to happen so hope this helps somebody in the future. Quite pricey if you try getting one off the internet as euro car parts list it at £339 but if you ring them for a price with a trade account it’s £96.

A blast of compressed air should shift any crud/water/fuel in open-ended lines. If you don't have compressed air I don't know what to suggest.

Work has been going on in the background with this mainly gathering parts. I have ordered all the fasteners I think I’ll need, new shocks and springs, various links etc. Annoyingly the replacement subframe that I got had quite a few bolts left in that the breakers yard had cut off. I have managed to remove them all and have repainted it after some surface rust removal. It’s came up quite well and I have also used liberal amounts of cavity wax. I’m now toying with replacing the subframe bushes but I cannot for the life of me find a tool for it. I have found a bush removal tool for just about every other car. There are some that say Audi vw rear subframe removal tool but give no dimensions or say what models it’s for. Quite frustrating. Has anyone used or know of a way of removing these bushes ? Thanks in advance

Hi guys, newsflash.......parts arrived from AutoCarPart 1 @ 15:15......fitted the replacement sensor (and detachable arm!) to the offside front......deep breath, ignition on, turn Jacki g mode off and....start. 30 seconds later the car is LEVEL. YAAY!!! I want to thank all you fab people who input their thoughts and support.....trust me on this, I'd not even have started on this without you guys cheering on from the sidelines.....I'm back on the road again....as soon as I've done the nearside just to be sure. Thanks everyone again.

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You don’t need a tester to inspect the condition of the cables within the flexible harness section Kieran.

Can’t hear the video, but to be honest between road noice and background noise, these sort of videos rarely identify culprit. If you had new outer CV joint, that may have contributed, especially if drive shaft boot was torn and and CV joint was open to the elements and contaminated. if you’ve got a worn wheel bearing then you’ll hear constant reverberating sound, around about 40-50mph. You might be able to pinpoint if you jack up car, and hold the coil spring and get someone to rotate the wheel. Any friction on the bearing will transfer to the spring which you should feel. Straight forward if your spanner handy, although I hate generation 2 bearings which are the press in hub variety on VW Polos for example. If generation 3 wheel bearing, then they are held in place with triple square bolts. Useful to have air hammer as the bearing is usually welded in with oxide corrosion if an alloy strut. You’ll need a breaker bar, torque wrench, etc. Fit quality F.A.G. Bearings given labour involved.

They're not interchangeable. You need to swap the failed part out for one that has the exact same part number

Go to a professional body shop. Had a similar issue with an old 2012 A4 Allroad. It’s classed as Platinum Grey 1RR, however will no doubt vary across models. When I spoke to Audi main dealer, it didn't even show up as a code. Phoned a few body shops and ones that are Audi and Porsche approved and they said it can’t be blended. Entire panel would need to be painted. As it’s matt/satin effect, it’s notoriously difficult to achieve consistent effect with rattle cans. Hope that helps.

Or just buy 5litres Quantum Longlife 3 which is VAG’s own brand. I never extend oil changes out to c18k or 18 months, but change it annually if you do an average mileage. Quantum is available from a number of reputable EBay sellers. 5 litres will allow you to have enough ‘top up’ oil for hopefully a couple of years. Regards, Gareth.

Welcome Akash, I have a similar issue with a non-Audi, and I’m attributing that to a bad wiring contact on the in-tank fuel pump. Not too difficult to sort, depending on your ability. Regards, Gareth.

As Dave has said it's often a loose wire under the passenger seat.

Hi guys I found a reversing bulb that doesn’t throw up a fault code on my dash on my 2010 A3 8p it’s made by Aslent (China) it’s a P21W fitting

This is sorted now I pulled relay 208 pulled the injectors bridged the relay and lifted the flap on the metering head. Eventually got a good delivery of fuel from each injector. But no spark back to it.

I'm near Leicester. I used AC motors on wanlip road in Syston. They're very good. You also have vee dub in Queniborough but I've never used them. Chapmans independent audi specialist in Wigston but again not used them.

Will do!

You are welcome Andrew, but surely worth walking back to the first bus stop and using some words of introduction, and let the forum know if you want to sell one, or buy one - or something else. Regards, Gareth.

So this happened within the first year of your ownership? Which would be less than 5 yrs since the car's first registration date? I ask because you may have some redress here through use of consumer's right act (1st October 2015). Basically you've 5 yrs in Scotland and 6 yrs in England, Wales and NI, through courts to show - using an expert - that the product was faulty all along. I'll try and dig up more info. Audi as with any other manufacturer will deny any fault. You take them to court and they usually buckle before any judgement is passed, as they don't want to make a rod for their back. A gentleman I know of took Apple to court in the UK over a faulty battery on a 5yr mac book. Apple laughed and so they went to court. Said gentleman won the case. Apple now have a rod made regarding laptop batteries. Foote v Apple.