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I don't presume to know what you're looking for Alex, but buying an S5 will likely have a decent specification on even a base model, minus things such as sound package or panoramic sunroof. Incidentally, LED matrix isn't gimmicky lighting. Far from it, this will have been a very expensive extra from new, over and above standard LED lights with features such as full beam assist, cornering lighting, etc. This type of specification helps sell it down the line unless you're planning for this car to be a long term keeper. You asked if S5s are typical for lack of servicing. No, not necessarily, but its a 2017 plate, so a 9 year old performance car, so it pays to do your research. The original owner may have sold it, and it could have traded hands a few times or been run ragged on a track or indeed modified. Without some sort of service log, then you've absolutely no idea what the history is. In terms of history, especially on an older vehicle such as this, then if its been maintained meticulously, even by the main dealer on a database, they can give you a print out. If the previous owner(s) were old school, then a physical service record is better. Doesn't need to be garage stamps, but receipts in a folder from a VAT registered garage, or simply parts purchased, and service mileage, in some sort of chronological order. That speaks volumes. I've had quattros for years, so I understand tyre wear. Normally you replace tyres in pairs on the same axle. There's no dark science to it. A car failing on tyres tells you the owner isn't aware of condition, wear pattern or tread depth.

We don’t know your driving history to date, but £400 a month on insurance is insane, considering cost of fuel and running costs as it is. Unfortunately males under 25 are deemed high risk, and of course the area where car is left overnight and your job will also have impact. Use some of the insurance comparison sites, on a standard 1 litre car for example and see what comes back price wise. You can also add telemetric box, which means you need to drive within speed limit at all times and even when you drive. Additional advanced driving qualification may help, but ultimately you need to be over 25 with no claims to start bringing it down.

Hello Dillon, So that is £4,800/pa, add to that, the car’s depreciation over that year, and you really are into bonkers territory! I am ignoring any finance you may be paying, together with the annual road tax, and obviously the actual running costs of the car. Sorry to put it bluntly, but you are in extreme danger of running yourself into an economic disaster - unless your earnings are exceptionally high,or you are ‘of some means’. As Cliff says - assuming you have checked all comparison sites - you will need to seriously research vehicles with low insurance groupings, and cut your cloth to suit those vehicles. Really sorry to say it as I see it, but it’s madness to have to spend a significant amount of amount of your working time to ‘feed your current situation’. Regards, Gareth.

The ability of a battery to crank and fire the engine is not evidence that it is in good shape. That was true years ago in the days of points in distributors, but not since the advent of sensitive electronics. I suggest you get the battery properly tested (not by a multimeter). I'd go further and say that if it is more than five years old you should renew it irrespective of the test results. Don't forget to get the new battery coded to the car.

Pleasure James, I like your approach to keeping this car maintained as it should be, and not as VAG suggests ( explanations already given). Having said that, with delivery mileage only, personally I wouldn’t be getting the oil change done at handover, but waiting until September when it has a few miles under its belt. Regards, Gareth.

Audi’s service plans are very expensive. They are designed to appeal to new owners and usually a bolt on package that some people accept at purchase, especially when spending thousands on a car. The reality is somewhat different. Let’s break it down. The basic plan is £719 for two years. That buys you an oil service (basically oil and filter) and an inspection service (oil, air and pollen filter) every 9,300 miles. I’m sure there was a query on the site recently as it didn’t include spark plugs. Usually due at 40k miles. https://www.audi.co.uk/en/owners/service-and-maintenance/service-plans/ Main Audi dealer doesn’t not buy expertise. Like Frank, I moved away from main dealer garages probably 30 years ago. I can see past the branded coffee cups and courtesy wash and vacuum, and know that the £200+ per hour rate, a fraction will go to the technician. The rest pays for the franchise running costs, plus a healthy profit. As the car is new, then find a garage you trust, preferably Audi or VAG independent that know what they are doing. I’ve had similar experiences with BMW as my wife has a i3 REx. Great car and the support or rather lack of it from the main dealer was evident when there was an issue withe the generator engine. They failed to fix after three attempts. That was their master tech too. Spent over £1k and said never again. Bought ISTA software, so service both my wife’s car and VCDS to run my own. Not suggesting you break out the spanners. Maintain the warranty, especially if the car is is mild hybrid. That tech is increasingly complex. Anyway enjoy that new car feeling.

Good morning James I have just read your post this morning with interest and as you reside in Hampshire as do I, may I put an alternative to you regards the future servicing of your lovely new A6 ? I do understand your desire to look after your car and make sure it works well for many years. I am 78 years of age and have been fortunate enough to have been the owner of many fine cars in my long life, all purchased new. I stopped using Main Dealer servicing over 20 years ago and the reasons are that I refuse to pay the exhorbitant rates that they charge and also.....and just as importantly.... I'm not convinced that they offer the finest levels of expertise . Since 2006 I have owned 2 VW Phaetons, 1 Audi A8, and 2 Audi Q8's . At the moment I am the happy owner of an S5 Avant that I took delivery of four weeks ago. All of these cars were purchased new and I chose to not service any of them with Main Dealers. All were serviced and maintained to a very high level at The Village Garage Bishops Waltham. I like many other " petrol heads " on this website am not convinced by the long service regimes that Audi supposedly recommend. I endorse everything that Sparticus said in his reply to you. He's a good bloke and knows what he's doing ! So, all my cars that I have listed have had services and particuarly oil changes every 7/8000 miles. The Village Garage has been running for many years and has a fine reputation. The owner is a guy called Matt who is very clever and knowledgeable guy. And just as importantly he is a car guy who loves all things to do with high end expensive cars. I trust him completely in looking after my cars and being ultra careful when they are with him. He , in fact runs an Audi SQ5 as his personal car. Matt uses all Audi parts and as he is a listed Audi / Porsche/ VW/ Skoda specialist , you will not invalidate your Audi warranty by taking it there. Matt is able to log and reset your Audi service indicator. So, it's just a thought and I do hope you don't mind me throwing my 2 penneth in here. The plusses for me are that I believe that my car will be serviced and maintained at a higher level than it would be at an Audi Dealership and I save a ton of money as Matts rates are far lower than Audis. My missis and I have been touring Germany in the car twice a year for many years now. Our next trip which will be for 4 weeks and cover over 2000 miles will be in October and I will schedule my S5's first service with Matt just before we go. By then he will have done about 5000 miles so a complete oil change and an inspection to make sure all is well. Finally an added bonus is that Bishops Waltham is a lovely little town so whilst Matt is working on your car, you can have a quiet stroll and have a coffee and breakfast there. The above is just a thought.....and I dont have any shares in the Village Garage just in case you were suspicious 🙂 Frank

Annual servicing all day long, but certainly every 10k miles. Audi moved to long service regimes because they were shifting cars with finance and offered free servicing as an incentive. They also introduced it to seduce fleet dealers who hoped to reduce their running costs. The whole thing is a fallacy. The reality is no synthetic oil can retain the lubrication properties to protect an engine after 18k miles. Down the line, an unsuspecting new owner will buy an ex-fleet or leased 3-4 year old car and discover premature engine wear and pick up the bill. For all the costs of an oil filter and 5-6 litres of fresh oil, just change it. I personally do it every 5k miles, still use Castrol Edge 5w30 LL, but my 2017 plate 3.0 TDI Allroad will be my last diesel.

Apologies for the gripe, but the forum has recently suffered from a spate of what can be termed ‘Post and Run’ new members, who seem to think it’s perfectly acceptable to post a plea for help, and simply not return to view the help given. In a more diluted form, help is offered, but is very rarely acknowledged even via. a simple press of the Like button, leave alone a posted Thank You. The last part of the gripe is that we frequently have to ask for additional information, and this extra detail often never materialises. Please remember, everyone who posts replies do so without payment, but it certainly does cost them in time - in terms of the Moderators and Admin back up - a lot of time. So a special plea to all on here who post needing help:- please be respectful enough to acknowledge any help given, rather than simply accept it as a no-cost, no time of yours, free advice service. It’s wearing thin folks, so if you want to retain this service, please respect and acknowledge its benefits. Thank you all for reading this, and above all, agreeing to adhere to the respect that is needed to be shown. Kind regards, On behalf of the Moderators. Please note:- This request is to all members, not just new ones. p.s. Please avoid using non specific locations such as U.K., England etc. etc.

Hi good skills you are getting the hang of this parts procurement, most parts for VAG have always been made by someone else, Bosch, Febi, Mann etc, prime example I needed a fuel filter for my daughters GLA that was going to be trade £109+VAT, quick look at the old one tells me it was Mann in origin so went fishing with the oe number and got a Mann filter from parts in motion for £45 shipped, I was told by an ex REME engineer the principle of working on any vehicle is if you can strip it down without breaking it you can bl@@dy well put it back together without breaking it. Steve.

Part is called turn signal indicator. Right hand side is 4G5949102B. Double check that with main dealer based on your registration. Think it should be around £45. Avoid Temu or EBay. https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/audi/RDW/A6/798/9/949/949000 To access, normally pop out glass, see if any screws, then prize mirror cap off, again using the trim tools, as usually clipped in. Unscrew the existing module, until electrics, and fit by reverse. Can be more complicated if lane assist or camera fitted. This is 2015 A6, so should be roughly the same. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hqps2U43fzI

Just a quick hello. Have purchased a 2021 Q5 45 tfsi. We’ve previously had three bmws which were great but my Mrs needed something easier to get in and out of as she now has left leg problems. Not 100% sure how we ended up with the q5 but it’s the one she liked the most. Who am I to argue with her. I’ve got a couple of bikes so car is ultimately her choice 😅 Anyhow enough rambling and thanks for letting me join. No doubt I’ll have questions to ask. I’ll try and look through the topics 1st Cheers from Inverness

You want a year's MOT on any of these cars. If buying privately, do your research. You can pull previous MOT history via government check. Also speak to owner. Genuine owner will have paperwork and lots of it, plus history. For these sort of vehicles, keep your search area tight. No point travelling for 'immaculate example' only to be disappointed. Always drive a car from cold, and cross reference vehicle VIN on inspection. For a car you're prepared to buy, and given we live in a world where we're surrounded by scammers, then pay for a vehicle report such as carvertical. RAC offer something similar, but less detailed. If you have VCDS, definately scan the car. Diesels on the whole are robust. At this age, its Euro5 technology. Regular oil changes are key to engine longevity. Anything on long service intervals 15-18k intervals, walk away. All 2.0 TDI engines will be belt driven, so again, when was toothed belt done? My advice is 60k miles or every 5 years plus waterpump. If any cars have panoramics, then check carpets, and headlining for water leaks. Test all electrics, central locking, etc. Sat Nav likely out of date, but it is what it is. Scuffed wheel rims, someone can't drive. Alignment will be out and I'll bet it pulls to the kerb. Check coil spring height. Easy test with your hand on level ground from tyre to arch.

Hi get them repaired, its a lot cheaper and less less likely you will buy used which will need some sort of refurbishment and reprogramming, all leather seats except for Bentley are spray painted hide and the covers are removable so can be repaired and re foamed. Steve.

Turns out it's not the right spacesaver. The steel rim is 6J depth while the OEM Audi version is 4.5J. It was never going to sit low enough - to be fair to the Wheelshop they have agreed to pickup for refund.

Found the problem this morning. It’s the connector shown in the attached photo — there is a thin hairline leak/crack in the connector.

Fixed this correctly in the end. I checked all the connectors on accessible modules under the steering wheel side of the dashboard and one was loose / not fully home, after pushing all the connections (think J519 module) the problem is properly solved. only 2 years later...

Hi the B6 is about the best compromise as they work with either conventional ride hight or factory lowered just remember to release the piston from its transport strap and push it all the way down and let it return at least six times to prime the monotube system as these work differently from twin tube, yes the rear sub frame has voids but you can get around this by using a product called Bilt Hamber, they do a range of rust removal and rust proofing, it ain't cheap but its top notch, my friend did his 1981 Porsche 911 with it a few years ago and it definitely works, with regard to the bushes poly is easier to fit but gives more road resonance when fitted and will take at least two years to calm down and bed in to an acceptable level, a very wise engineer I met that looked after racing cars at Snetterton once told me if you want good handling on a road car use standard heavy duty springs and stiffer shocks and a good branded rubber bush, if you get a new frame just change the bushes for peace of mind and bare in mind how long the originals last, use Meyle or Lemforder, if your mate is bringing power tools for the brakes tell him to not use them until you have the bolt moving which requires a blowtorch and plenty of plus gas anti seize and patience as these threads will ring out given half a chance, if you consider the amount of heat a calliper works with you can't realistically overheat them, once off I would replace the units anyway in view of the fact that 90% of callipers are refurbished even the dealer units. and bolt wise invest in a Sealy Wall Drive sockets as that system will never round the the bolts off as it grips the flat sided bit of the bolt. Steve.

Dear audi owners club members. I would like to introduce myself. I am a first time Audi owner and have recently aquired a project 1998 Audi Cabriolet 2.6l (I always liked the shape when the roof is down) and more by chance than intention a 2013 A6 avant allroad 2.8l, japanese import, which appears to be in good nick. I am in the north of Scotland and an looking forward to meet fellow enthusiasts in the region. Together with a friend we drove both cars up from England. The cabriolet looked better in the pictures and had some immediate issues (Boot and roof not opening etc) some I have been able to solve. I am hoping to use the cabriolet over the summer with minor intervention and start restoration in the autumn. Hopefully the A6 Avant behaves as it looks and does only require regular servicing.

Worth trying Ali express James. I’ve had mud flaps off them for the non-Audi at a fraction of the main dealer cost, and I don’t have any criticism of the quality. Not sure what they for yours, but worth a search. Regards, Gareth.

All now fixed. The sensors can be replaced without taking off the bumper. In my case the actual faulty one was on the corner, just take the 6 visible torx T25 screws out of the lower side and corner of the wheel arch liner and put a hand in the gap; unclip the sensor (took a bit of effort as the clips are strong and difficult to get purchase, see note below). Then withdraw and unplug. Plug in the new one and refit. A bit of silicon grease helped the new one in as it was a tight fit. The inner front one was damaged but still worked; but replaced just in case. Can be accessed thru the grill with small fingers. For both a bit of strong nylon string looped around the clip and pulled from below gently allowed the sensor to be pushed out, on the one in grille it was simple but for the one on the corner fed it up thru a handy slot in the plastic. Overall time to change about 10mins each one.

I echo the comments about annual servicing being better for the car than extended intervals, and independent garages being better than main dealers.

Perfect mate. All done. Thank you. Have a great weekend!!

Hi Spartacus, yes I bought a new oil level sensor from a reputable retailer. After it was fitted, I took the car for a test drive, I should mention at this point, that my mechanic thought it was an oil pressure sensor, despite all the info messages. Anyway, as soon as the test started, the same fault lights illuminated. I drove back the garage where the mechanic stood with a new oil pressure sensor in hand and a smug grin on his face. Turns out he was right all along and the fault has never returned.

1st it means what it says! There is a countdown and at 0 the engine will close down. 2nd the problem is vv likely the failure of the AdBlue pump and that really ps me off as 1 it is the result of Audi using an inadequate/poorly made pump, and, even worse, installing it inside the AdBlue tank so that it cannot economically be repaired or replaced. You need a new tank and associated electronics. When the new part is fitted, it has to be registered to the system. Some people, esp in US, say the solution is to ditch AdBlue. That's forbidden in UK and will show up as an MoT fault.

Update: I have replaced the boost pressure valve from the same Audi A4 B9 2.0 TDI. I have done a test drive for about ah hour and the fault has not appeared yet which leads me to believe that the issue has been fixed. Thank you to all that helped.

Thank you Gareth for your advice. CHERISHED NUMBER PLATE - A7 GON Would look great on an Audi A7 or S7. Suited to a tuned Audi, especially as you race away from the lights "A7 GON" On retention certificate, it has been in my ownership for over 34 years, always got lots of attention and comments from enthusiasts whenever I was parked up. The plate is worth between £2,500 to £3,500 based on the format and the 3 letter word. I am open to offers in that range for a quick sale :)

Spartacus made a good point about insurance claims. If there were any they would have jacked up your premiums.

Please be aware, if you have an Audi with a sealed transmission unit, Audi will say it’s lifelong. This means lifelong for the warranty of the gearbox only… If your car has 40,000+ miles on it or is over 2-3 years, get Audi or an Audi specialist to check the transmission fluid. I have an Audi A8 LWB and went into Audi for a health check with 113,000 miles yet. Audi did not feel the need to check the transmission fluid 😞 My Audi has now done 150,000, when I spoke to Audi they were only going to change the transmission fluid and not the filter… that could mean the filter would have contaminated the new transmission fluid 🧐 I went to JMR VW & Audi specialists in Littlehampton West Sussex who did a transmission fluid change and filter to find my fluid was black when it should have been clear, my car thankfully is ok and I can count myself very lucky but this could’ve been avoided if Audi were to include a transmission fluid check when they do their health checks on older cars that you take to them. my point is if your car has done over 40,000 miles go to a specialist to get the transmission fluid checked or even replaced as it is not a lifelong sealed unit as oil deteriorate over time…

Perfect thanks Steve 🙂 Will be good to get it all back together. A bit random, but I discovered bilstein UK based is in Leicester. Small world.

The definitive answer should be revealed via. consulting the handbook and/or the sticker which can usually be found on the inside of the fuel flap, or the B post. Regards, Gareth.

Wondering what the latest is on this Adam-? Regards, Gareth.

If the Audi dealer found no faults at the first diagnosis how much reliance can you place on his second attempt? Then there is AI which has given you a list of possible faults, but no certainties. Are you going to spend money on that basis? I suggest you find an independent VAG specialist who can test the car with a decent code reader such as VCDS, and let him do the diagnosis before committing to any expenditure.

Mike. Read the whole of this topic, then tell us if you are still going to buy the car. https://www.audiownersclub.com/forums/topic/24906-alternator-failure-related-to-mild-hybrid-system

Thank you magnet thank you for your help

Hi, I shortened the wording and it let me post, thanks to everyone who replied. David

Perhaps the array of warning lights impresses as a substitute for ambient lighting Steve! Take care, Regards, Gareth.

Hi Gareth, not cheap enough with that sort of comprehensive service history, its an old car yes but probably worth the money when you consider its unmolested and one of the last of the reliable [ROBUST] builds, stick to the price, cheaper means like most of them we get on here with bits missing no history and a dash display that would put Blackpool to shame. Steve.

Sorry it's been a while. The A6 is booked in into a garage for engine work in July. So that gives me time to get the bits sorted. So today, my mate and I attacked the rear end. I'm aiming to replace the rear axle, brakes, suspension. One of the rear springs had snapped and the car fought us all the way. We're struggling to get the calipers off as the bolts seem seized. This has stopped us progressing further. Handbrake was seized one side. Both spring rubber caps are perished and split. Ive decided on going with eibach pro kit springs which are as close as I can get to the original sport springs (both originals and eibach ones are the same 30mm). Trying to decide on whether I go for bilstein b6 or b8 shocks. Currently trying to find a new/refurbished axle as I'm trying to prevent the situation like on this Passat. Does anyone know the passat axle and A6 2wd axle are the same? I've contented I'm axles and another supplier of Passat b5 axes but they haven't got back to me. I'm going to fit powerflex bushes to the axle where it mounts to the car. Then going to sort he brakes out but I'm planning to do brakes last so that new discs aren't sitting not being used. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.

Normal regeneration is every 300 miles and is linked to ash/soot level once it gets to 40-45%. Normally after a decent journey, when car is up to temperature, then it will kick in. On stop/start, then it can be switched off via VCDS software. Car is new to you, and on 160k, so anything is possible. Yes, you can manually disable too via instrument switch, but that would reset, each time. A weak battery could also be attributed. You’re doing well to get 7-8 years from a battery now, and cars are susceptible to voltage drops. New ones are usually AGM and coded to the car. On cold, not started, with a multimeter, you should be getting 12.4-12.7V. VCDS software isn’t just for scans, as mentioned, you can prime fuel filter, retract rear electro-mechanical brake for new discs, perform learn process if you were replacing sunroof motor for example, add sweep on rev counter on start up, dip passenger wing mirror on reverse, etc. Something to consider down the line.

So the charging is controlled by a phone app? You did not mention that earlier. That makes things more complicated because it introduces another failure point. If it is the Audi application I suggest you take the matter up with Audi. I seem to recall reading of similar problems reported here, so it may pay you to search these forums.

Forgot to mention, its a timing belt too. Personally speaking, 5 years or 60k miles for interval. Change tensioner pulley and water-pump at the same time. These are very good engines and will run for years if properly maintained. Change oil annually (5w30) or by 10k miles. VCDS is diagnostic software available via Gendan. No real issues with these cars. Panoramic sunroofs are known to leak. If bi-xenon headlights (better than halogen projectors), then headlight washers should work. Rear spring seats corrode. Check the exhaust central clamps (usually rust through), replace with stainless Mykalor clamps. Brake calipers if still original suffer oxide corrosion that forces dust sleeve to swell and you end up with sticky caliper, brakes overheating. I rebuilt mine with Budweg kit.

Euro 5 common rail diesel engine (177PS), no AdBlue. However will have DPF, EGR, cat, etc. Tail pipes shouldn't be sooty. Any indication of turbo or actuator work in history? Engine will normally regenerate after a long drive once up to temperature. Car should have start stop. If that's not working, it's either been disabled, or needs regen. If you're concerned about emissions, add Forte diesel conditioner to the fuel tank when you're on low fuel light and drive hard for 10-20 miles. Replace the fuel filter (lives under the driver's side). Mann filters are very good. Few underbody fasteners to remove to get to it. Assuming you don't have VCDS, (as there's a prime function), then engage ignition to hear fuel pump prime (but don't start), a 5-6 times to prime it. Top up with some premium diesel and see if situation improves.

Tony, see this topic: https://www.audiownersclub.com/forums/topic/24906-alternator-failure-related-to-mild-hybrid-system

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂 sounds a lovely car.

Hi the letter is a build year denomination, if its the same part with a different letter it probably was manufactured a few years later. Steve.

Only change the tyres once you've had the 4 wheel tracking checked. On the rears - there's and eccentric bolt for toe-in and out on the lower arm, but I think there's eccentric adjustment on the upper arm too for camber. I'm running Nexen tyres, again a mid range tyre, but have been impressed with them in terms of road handling. That rear coil spring lower mount as mentioned is a weak point. You tend to get 3 years out of them. Relatively cheap in terms of parts, but Audi will want an arm and a leg to replace or choose a reputable independent. It's a bit more complicated with a rear axle with quattro, but doable if you are spanner handy.

Yup that's the same part...that on the b8 model is down low on the front of the engine with the egr solenoid above it...the two of them fail a lot causing over boost alarms and boost actuator position alarm, that's why I bought my own smoke machine so I can test the system myself.

Hello everyone, Matej here, I am fresh owner of my first ever Audi. Coming from Osijek, Croatia. Bit of a background, 30 years old, been into cars all my life. Order of the cars that brought me here from first to the Audi Mercedes A140, Alfa Romeo 156 1.9 JTD, Alfa Romeo 159 1.9 JTS, Mercedes W212 E200 CDI, Mercedes W213 E220d, and now a proud owner of: Audi A6 Avant 3.0 BiTDi Quattro Competition. I still have the 159, wouldnt sell it for anything :D Don't have many pics, will do a photosession in the next few weeks. So far I am loving the car, it has a bug that is driving me crazy, but the power from that V6 is amazing. Drives like a charm. Looking forward to being a part of the Audi comunity :) IMG_8349.HEIC

The Q6 (and most Audi) use passive TPMS based on the ABS and rolling resistance (also known as the cheap 💩version). You can’t see the actual pressures. Problem is that it can trigger due to differential wear on a tyre or just because it feels like it. Had a warning a couple of months ago for a low pressure on the rear near side wheel. It was at 38 others were at 40. Had just come off the motorway. So basically, if it goes off, you need to stop and check it, or at least slow down to 50 mph if you have the standard run flats fitted