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Chances are the headlight is made by Hella. The original OE Audi version will be double that. Even if you're going after-market, then I'd opt for Hella. No point having adaptive headlights if they don't work.

That's atrocious if it was done via insurance, and to be honest it's just as poor if it was cash in hand! Regards the lights - definitely second-hand. Can be refurbished is not available from Audi anymore. Wet sand, then polish with Menzerna. In respect of the water pooling in the boot, they two issues could be completely unrelated, especially in the wiper motor is going haywire. The Valeo unit eventually dies due to the brass/copper pipe that runs to the water jet breaking. This leaks water into the motor and eventually into the boot. There should be an Audi sticker on it - plug and play if you replace. Just get the same part number.

A long warm up time suggests it not fully closing. I have read a few cases in these forums where even new thermostats were defective. I guess that is why Magnet is asking about the brand.

Thanks Glyn, I always re- check the oil level on level ground, the morning after the oil is changed. It’s surprising how long it takes for all (in caps) the added oil to get down to the sump. Too late now, but……. If it were mine:- (1) Check the oil level (on level ground) before start up tomorrow morning. (2) If it is above the line, get an accurate mm rule and measure exactly how much above the line it actually is. (3) Check again after 300 miles or 3 weeks and see how much it has increased. If it has then proved to have risen, it could be due to oil dilution with diesel. Please let us know how you get on Glyn. Regards, Gareth.

So, I picked up the convertible this morning — a total bill of £420. Driving very well indeed. I've asked Norwich Audi to quote for replacing the camshaft — along with a new cam belt (it had a cam belt done when the cam was fitted, but I'm not a fan of re-tensioning important belts). I'm away on holiday for the first couple of weeks of September, so I'm going to leave it with them for that time to get the job done. Running an old Audi sometimes feels like being in a bad relationship — it's cost can be staggering — but I love the car… 😆 I'll add to this thread when I get the car back in mid-September. Mike 🙂

Front wheel arch liner needs to come off (usually Torx head screws), and depending on location, engine tray too. Parts made by Valeo. Good opportunity to clean out annyway. Easy enough to prep yourself as Audi will charge small fortune for colour coded one. Make a mask template with card, lightly key PDC sensor with 1500 grit sandpaper, wipe sensor with isopropyl alcohol. First coat of plastic primer, couple of top colour coats and followed by a couple of clear lacquer flash coats. Read you can cure paint by popping in oven for a few minutes (without the rubber ‘o’ ring, but think I’d miss that part out, and just don’t jet-wash directly for a few weeks.

Hi all. Thanks for the advice about the fault. Back from Audi garage. Fault found with replacement switch I bought. They’ve done a diagnostic check and fitted new one. All OK now.

So how it started (no pun intended). Drove the RS4 for about 400 miles on and off and no dramas really. 1st problem - Starter partially engaged a few times (horrible noise) then started fine. 2nd Problem - Squealing poly belt on tick over (still working but annoying.) decided to take the car off the road for a few months and do both jobs. Anyone looking to do any of these jobs be aware it a little more work then your average. 1) poly belt, jack car up and take belly pan etc off. Then you need to slide the front of the car forward, (Audi S4 4.2l alternator belt and tensioner replacement DIY by Edge Motors) Fog lights out Bumper off watch the video! easy job but make sure you have a long pole or breaker bar to take tension off belt. NEXT Starter motor, (what a !Removed! of a job) Audi RS4 B7 - 4.2 V8 - Starter Motor change One of the engine mounts Allen bolts near the exhaust is a pain but doable. Stripped and cleaned starter motor. engaging shaft was all carboned up, cleaned and lubed and works like a dream out of the car. heat shield was put back on but maybe not as well as it was when i took it off due to its age. (Might be a problem) So poly belt installed and works fine Starter motor works every time ............................. When the car is warm after a run it wont start. Clutch pedal down (audible click) and no joy, Leave the car for 10/15 mins to cool down starts straight away! Assuming the heat shield may be making the starter solenoid overheat and not sure if it tells the car not to start if its to hot? Also if car now left locked up over night it drains the battery. 1) Charged battery and it hold charge fine. leave it disconnected over night and didnt lose any charge 2) did a parasitic draw check. car unlocked and drivers door open, drawing about 4 milli amps removed all relays from under steering wheel and no change to draw. car running battery doesnt drop so alternator is charging. 3) Once locked and left it drops to 1.6 milliamps is this bad? my thoughts are before i did starter and poly belt it was fine so its something i have done. Any ideas what may be drawing? Bad earth from starter? Bad cables from starter? Heat shield hot starter sending signal? bad earth or something not on properly attached? any help would be appreciated. Plan on getting the car back on axle stands and getting access to the starter again, check all the plugs and leads wrap exhaust near the starter and try and make a better deal with the heatshield. Hopefully i notice something!

Thank you!

Rhubarb. Rhubarb. Rhubarb. Can't hear a word you are saying Gareth.

Only thing that did concern me was the new sensor having no sort of serial number or writing on it, it was just blank. It came in a Mahle box but obviously that’s easily done. I just didn’t think much of it until now seeing as the sensor change had altered something and was then working.

Cassy. If you want meaningful opinions you need to be much more specific in telling us what parts of the car were damaged and repaired. All you have mentioned so far is the vague "I had a panal beater paint the bumper and fix some damage". As for the water in the boot, that could be window wash water from the wiper motor as Richard pointed out. It was a common problem in that model, and therefore possibly unrelated to the body repairs. Test the rear wash function to be certain.

Sorry Edward, I can not hear anything strange in your recording. It's not unusual that members post audio recordings in the hope that odd noises can be identitifed, but rarely can we hear the noise in question. You have become attuned to the noise so you can hear it much more readily than we can.

Hi Dan, Just picked up your message, yes I still have the number on retention. Thanks Gareth for your intervention.

Hello Marc, ‘….probably fitting the same type again… ‘ If so, then the risk of the same end result may well remain. Why not dip into your pocket and get one (and the rubber seal) from Audi, and ask your garage to fit that. If you do suffer any issues after that, you can then eliminate the thermostat as the culprit. Regards, Gareth.

Hi Gareth was naive to think a new OE part fitted for last 2 months could still be the issue, but looks like it is. They will probably fitting the same type again. But hoepfully this one will work. Getting done next Thursday, will report back. Thank you for reply and thoughts

Looks stunning!

perfect thanks, I've jacked her back up and found a slightly loose starter earth but surely that wouldn't be it. i will disconnect the alternator plug and check the draw. ill keep you updated. i will have closer look at the multi meter to get the amps in the correct power. seen as i've only fiddled with the starter i assumed it would be that but alternator could be a shout.ill update tomorrow once ive had a fiddle about.

Thank you it’s a bit of an intermittent fault and today the indicators have been working okay. I have purchased an indicator relay to replace should the fault continue!!

Check the earth connections at each light. That is a common cause of defective lights.

If it's like my a6 the relays will be at the back of the fuse box on the driver side. You access it by removing dash trim under the dash near the steering wheel.

Hi and thanks for allowing me to join. i have returned to the Audi fold after a few years away throwing my money at JLR products 😭😡🤬😭. I have previously owned the following Audis :- 2004 A3 3.2ltr V6 - brutal thing to drive and went for the S3. 2009 S3 in RS Blue - theft magnet, as I lived in London at the time. 5 attempts to break knto our house to get the keys, so I sold it back to Audi. Then finally a beautiful midnight blue 2007 A4 Avant 2.7 ltr Diesel FWD, which destroyed its gearbox at 10mph 🤬 So I have just bought a 2012 A4 B8 Black Edition saloon FWD with manual gearbox, and I have to say it has teally surprised me - nippy, nimble, fun to drive, and at £35 a year Tax, and 50+mpg, its a winner! slightly disappointed that Bluetooth for playing music and satnav aren’t fitted, but the car itself is in amazing condition. Not so sure the 35 profile tyres will like the state of our roads, so I will have to tread carefully.

This link might help: https://www.audiworld.com/forums/a4-b8-platform-discussion-128/random-dying-cold-start-3068600/

Pleasure Glyn. We look forward to hearing of the outcome.

I’ve seen it before where an oil leak in the middle of the V has filled and ran down both sides so would recommend looking there with a borascope or sticking a camera phone as best you can around in there for any sign of oil if yours doesn’t look like the pictures

IMG_9185.mov

It’s unusual for all the injector seals to go at the same time on both banks and rather than it being oil it looks like a sludge of carbon that sprays under pressure on the manifold and inner wing. You’ll be able to here a faint ticking noise too coming from the injector. IMG_9185.mov

Hi. We have a large panel of insurers that we use. Please feel free to take a look at the below link which list all the insurer we deal with. Insurer Policy Booklets | Adrian Flux Adrian Flux Regards, Dan.

I will update. Thanks

Hi. I have an unused rear dog guard for a A6 Avant. I think it fits between the rear seats and the luggage space, didn't have a dog so never used. If any body would like it the price would be...........Free of charge!! Tony

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Coolant leaks rarely get better. I understand it's a lot of money, but you you run a risk on say a longer journey where the car is to temperature, or even dumps coolant and leaves you stranded. Couple of options, park it up until you have the necessary funds and use for short run journeys. Not sure what you have transport wise near you for commuting, but suspect it's a damn sight better than north of the wall!

Gave mine a bit of a clean up so thought I'd share a pic of how she's looking after a year in my hands. Think I've finished all the modifying and retrofitting for now so just enjoying the driving.

It's probably that then.

Welcome Mahmood. Would anyone be able to help with a recommendation for Mahmood? Regards, Gareth.

Fingers crossed.

i think your right spartacus, im out right now but i’m pretty sure i do remember seeing that audi symbol. that’s definitely a bonus then. to be honest gareth, that was what i first had in mind, sanding some scratches, filling them, sanding again and then painting… but for some reason i tried to paint too much over and it caused the primer to split. and yes, definitely. at least i’ve now realised how challenging a task it is and that it’s not worth all the effort. but your right, i do love to DIY and you get that sense of achievement and another thing to add to the resume😂 - not this time though of course thanks frank.

The new part arrived and wow what a difference! No matter how much I tinkered with the old one, I'd never be able to get it as good as the part so decided to go ahead and fit it. Having just done a road test, the difference is night and day. The new part is really rigid and doesn't creak at all, where as the old one was really flexible. For anyone else experiencing this issue, particularly with a 2-3 year old car, I can't recommend changing the part enough, the improvement is huge. It cost me £319 direct from Audi and arrived the following day and was very easy to fit.

Hello Frank, I completely understand the logic of why you wanted to DIY this - job satisfaction is indeed rewarding. The problem here is, you won’t be completely happy with the end result. If it was just a question of rubbing down some scratches, priming, and a couple of light coats of colour - just to make them look a bit better - then fine. Take some positives from it Frank, although it’s possible, you have found it’s not worth while. Regards, Gareth.

They look genuine, thought I saw the Audi rings near the wheel bolts, turn them over, usually a part number on the rear.

Thanks that’s good advice

So, I took the convertible out this morning, keeping it in normal performance before it warmed up. After about a mile, I got the flashing glow-plug symbol, and a reduction in power. 🤔 I got to my destination, and switched off. When I restarted, the DPF warning came up, but without the glow-plug lamp, and performance was normal. Now up to normal temperatures, I drove it at 70 in fourth gear for about three miles, but on restart, the DPF symbol is still there. I sat on the driveway with the engine idling, and Carly plugged in. It came up with an odd code - something to do with intermittent signal from the seat belt circuit, and not connected to anything about the engine, so I cleared and rescanned - clean...🤔 I'm going to take it for a spin this afternoon with Carly plugged in to see if anything comes to light. I spoke to my mate at Norwich Audi, who tells me that a forced DPF re-gen is £200 - but advised me to shop around. He also mentioned, in passing, that a new DPF was £2,500... 😱 So, I've got it provisionally booked in at CAT Automotive next Friday, for investigation. Their comment was that they need to see why the DPF isn't re-genning on its own, and cure that problem, rather than just addressing the symptom and forcing a re-gen. I'll keep updating this thread - but please jump in with ideas... Cheers, Mike 😎

Added a TTRS Mk2 2009 to my Audi collection 🤩 plenty of smiles!

Apologies for the gripe, but the forum has recently suffered from a spate of what can be termed ‘Post and Run’ new members, who seem to think it’s perfectly acceptable to post a plea for help, and simply not return to view the help given. In a more diluted form, help is offered, but is very rarely acknowledged even via. a simple press of the Like button, leave alone a posted Thank You. The last part of the gripe is that we frequently have to ask for additional information, and this extra detail often never materialises. Please remember, everyone who posts replies do so without payment, but it certainly does cost them in time - in terms of the Moderators and Admin back up - a lot of time. So a special plea to all on here who post needing help:- please be respectful enough to acknowledge any help given, rather than simply accept it as a no-cost, no time of yours, free advice service. It’s wearing thin folks, so if you want to retain this service, please respect and acknowledge its benefits. Thank you all for reading this, and above all, agreeing to adhere to the respect that is needed to be shown. Kind regards, On behalf of the Moderators. Please note:- This request is to all members, not just new ones. p.s. Please avoid using non specific locations such as U.K., England etc. etc.

Guide and pictures credited to Jack Millin. Flat bottom steering wheel off a S3 8P fitted to my 2010 B8 Avant. The electrical plug needed 2 little tabs trimming off and 3 of the wires de pinning and putting in different positions and it all works. I've attached a picture of the wiring guide as well. This guide should also be applicable to the b7 A4 too.

Picked up a good compatible battery, however no place can code it for me until Wednesday. Still stuttering upon start up getting the low fuel pressure performance bank 2 code and mechanical fuel pump failure code, but on the plus side my fuel pressure pump arrives today in the mail along with my cam follower, so I’ll be replacing that today after I pick up a torque wrench, and goodies from ECS too are due to arrive. If the fuel pump doesn’t solve the issue with the misfires and rough starting then I’m going to break down and have the shop that codes the battery to the car go ahead and just go through everything.

Well. The deed has been done and I now have a car with a stage 1 re-map. What a difference. It was obvious as soon as I drove it away. It seems to rev through the range a lot smoother and has power all through the range starting from about 1400 rpm. I almost spun all the wheels the first time I pulled away from the lights The MPG when driving home from work got up over 50mpg so was very pleased The HP has gone from 170 up to 205. I was going to have the EGR switched off as well but after another conversation with the mechanic he was not keen to switch it off as feedback from others who have had it done was that the dpf sooted up a lot quicker. As I was not having the DPF removed we agreed not to switch of the EGR. Feedback welcome on the decision. I would be interested to see how it matches up with a REVO re-map or a custom job on a rolling road. The cost was £195 and took about 4 hours from dropping off to picking the car up. Just enough time for a couple of beers, weekly shop and a coffee. Am I glad I did it. Absolutely. Mechanics details if you are interested:- James Diggens Auto Services Ltd Hedge End Southampton 02380600062

Hi all. Heres a wee pic of mine 👍