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Hi pictures, price, service history, milage, all the prior might raise some interest. Steve.

Yea I'm all ok. Brake fluid is definitely less than 2 years old. You know me Trevor I'm hot on maintenance. Especially with the nature of the work I do. It was scary to say the least. But could have been worse

Yes I did Gareth after checking that its was a 2012 Facelift and thus no engine issues but thanks for the warning. So far it is great except for fuel consumption where I am getting high 20s mpg. Alas I have been spoilt by my family Skoda Karoq which gives is mid 40s!

I bet that topic title got some of you going, thinking what this then? Driving Topless ! Anyway. The last time I had a convertible was a Triumph Stag. Gorgeous car, and driving this TT brings back fond memories. However, during the beautiful weather we had last year I discovered something. Driving with the roof down caused an issue with visibility during the bright sunshine in that it got behind the sunglasses at the top and made you end up squinting. This can of course be alleviated by wearing a baseball cap because the peak stops the sun getting behind the top of the glasses. But have any of you found a way around this so you don't have to wear the cap? I appreciate it may seem a silly point to some, but I surely can't be the only one to experience this? Thanks for any tips or info in advance.

After nearly 6 years of ownership, its unfortunately time to sell my RS4... I have uploaded photos but seem to have hit the limit. I have more and can share on on whatsapp for anyone interested. B7 Audi RS4 Avant 4.2 V8. Phantom black with black optics kit, Ti alloys. Very good condition just over 95.5k miles. Full Service history (Mixture of main dealer and independent) and comes with all original manuals and both keys. Latest service done at 95,500 miles First registered Jan 2007. MOT done 8 Dec 2022 I have owned the car since 2017 after buying from a fellow enthusiast who looked after the car flawlessly during his ownership. During my ownership, I have continued to look after the car with no expense spared, both on the mechanical and cosmetic fronts. The car is in fantastic condition and ready for the next owner to enjoy and look after knowing that all the usual niggles have been dealt with. I'd love to sell this to a fellow enthusiast. Asking price is £22,000 Any inspection welcome and I am happy to provide a walk around video to help those further afield before viewing in person. Car is located in London. Thanks for looking and any questions please PM or call me on 07743418517 Rob Spec - Bose stereo - Sat nav - CD changer and fridge in glovebox - Carbon interior trim - Dark headlining - Recaro bucket seats with fully operating inflating bolsters - Flat bottom steering wheel - Phone prep (no cradle) - Aux lead - Sunroof - Privacy glass - Xenon lights - DRLs - Auto wipers / dimming mirror - Heated front seats Works done - MRC Stage 2 with manifold flap removal and cold air feed - Forge Motorsport oil cooler - New battery - Bilstien B14 coilovers - H&R front and rear anti roll bars - Miltek non res exhaust with valves and black tails - Dectane taillights - Joey headlights - RS6 style front grille - Michelin PS4s Tyres all round with 6mm tread - New clutch and Dual Mass Flywheel fitted at 82k - New power steering reservoir (2022) - New Reyland Motorsport J-groove front discs (2021) - Full front end respray (2020) - Wheels all recently refurbished (Jan 23) - Winmex black badges all round - Pandora alarm fitted (2017)

hi ,the colour code is also on a sticker on the inside page of the owners manual,or failing that youl have to take off the fuel cap door and take it to a body shop and they should get you the code.greg

Hi if you give a visual inspection with the car jacked up using a bar place pressure on them and if they move a lot thats your problem the balljoint end rarely wears but the bush on the subframe end is normally the culprit and when really worn it will look like this.

I'd recommend a diagnostic check to see if any fault codes flag up. But you will probably find the buttons have failed. It's a complete unit which can be removed from the steering wheel and replaced

If it's the spring loaded ones I'm thinking of that give auto boot opening function be careful. Quality can be questionable. I've seen cases on the A6 c5 groups of them failing inside 3 months.

Very unusual for an estate car not to come with one. I'd recommend you speak to Audi. But I suspect the dealer is having you on.

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂

Hi Stephen, Had a look and coolant reservoir is indeed below the min line. There is also a large wet patch under the car. You can also see in the last image where the liquid is collecting and dripping. Looks very similar to the coolant leak issue in this video for the same car: https://youtu.be/Dmt5esws4HA I'll speak to the dealer and get them to take a look/replace reservoir. Thanks, James

I would say this is a case of losing faith in the dealer rather than the car. It’s a split hose which can happen on any car, which has obviously not been repaired properly by the dealer. Get them or another dealer to repair it.

Hi Steve. Thanks for the reply. The existing ones seem to hold the long boot up once its part lifted manually. I just got this A5 on friday. its a 15 plate with 50k on the clock. mint condition. Reading all the problems quoted on here I am getting nervous. lol. If I replace them I may go for the spring loaded in any case . I will keep the forum up to date as I go Johnny M

Hello Michael, I would be moving forward with extreme caution on any vehicle that has such a short previous ownership. The vehicle might have been rejected under a 30 day purchase. A paid for vehicle check would be a must, unless you have access to a contact from the previous short term owner. Co-incidentally, I came across a similar situation with a non-Audi I eventually bought just over a year ago. It has one owner until about 2 months before my intended purchase - alarm bells! I managed to get the last owner details from the seller, and was able to talk with that owner at the eleventh hour. He revealed it was his late father’s car from new, and he wanted to retain his personalised number, so had no option other than to register the car in his name. A paid for vehicle check should reveal details of personalised number transfer dates etc., so I’m very much with Stephen on his essential recommendations. If you work on the principle that a seller will tell you anything you want to hear - you won’t go far wrong. Is this 8 month old car being sold by a main dealer or not? Kind regards, Gareth.

Maybe a really small amount ( or nothing at all) at an annual service Lance. How much are you needing to add, and over what mileage/time? Kind regards, Gareth.

https://vehicleenquiry.service.gov.uk/VehicleFound?locale=en ....your best paying for a vehicle check

Not got car back yet, still in workshop. I will post once completed.

if your in ennis co clare you could take it to roman in limerick and hed sort it,or else ive the vcds if you want to plug it in im about 40 mins from you in pallasgreen.greg.

Here's what I would do. Revert the mapping so the car can see the EGRs Run it. If light comes on (which it probably will) have it diagnosed and it'll probably end up needing a new EGR and cooler. Accept that if you keep the car for several years, it'll need doing again but when exactly will depend on mileage, driving pattern, fuel quality.

I had the same issue yesterday. Audi a4 2017 23000 miles, driven regularly. Happened after not using the car for 3 days. Thanks a lot for all your contributions in this thread!

Hi it could well be a bad wiring problem in the plug as they are in a pretty bad area and the original alloy units normally corrode, check for breakages inside the insulation if you strip the wire back and the inner copper is brown thats your problem. Steve.

That looks a possibility, thank you, appreciate the help. Hopefully these tools will be man enough to do the job !! 12 Heavy Duty Car Trim Removal Set Radio Panel Door Dash Vehicle Repair Pry Clip 7427274231726 | eBay

Did you manage to het them activated or where they never fitted from factory?

Audi say alternator has arrived and they will be fitting tomorrow....

Exactly. I'm very lucky

OK THEN

Oh my goodness, as long as you are okay? The car can be fixed although it depends if you want it back with brake failure.....sounds like the fluid has too much moisture content and boiled when braking leaving an air bubble in the hydraulic system Would lend you my car Steve but not sure it will come back in one piece 🙂

Thank you for your efforts, but mine doesn't look quite like that, and certainly does NOT have those two little cutouts. Hopefully someone can offer other ideas!!

Hi all - after owning quite a few VW cars and campers, I just bought my first Audi - 2016 A3 e-tron. Think the first owner went a bit mad with the options list, I just hope that it all works as it should (bought it at a vehicle auction….). It has impeccable service history, and 82k miles so hopefully ok. Seems to go well so far, although ACC is saying unavailable atm, I plan to run VCDS on it later to see what it finds.

hi all,just replaced the 2 front lower engine mounts bought from ebay.item no 325250874433 by meyle(justgermanparts).the mount with the wiring is for the passenger side.put electric handbrake on and first gear turn car off.i only jacked the car up one side at a time.starting at the drivers side remove the wheel,then at the back of the wheel arch remove the 2 10mm plastic nuts(pic)then remove the black plastic lug at the back of the wheel arch and also to the righ of the wheel arch remove the 2 torx screws and a funny looking lug.and peel back the wheel arch revealing the 3 bolts that need to be removed(pic)the 2 outer 16mm bolts and one inner 18mm bolt(that also has a triple square on it but an 18mm socket is fine.but first go under the car and remove the big under tray and jack the oil pan up a few pumps with a block of wood underneath it(otherwise you cant do the job)so you can get the 3 bolts out easier.you will need a long extension bar to remove all 3 especially the inner 18mm.and look close to where the lower engine mount cover is and you will see 2 rusty looking triple square size M8 triple square bolts(pic) be very careful with these as i was told you can easily damage the threads on them.i wire brushed and wd40 them i carefully tapped the triple square in with a hammer and carefully turned them until i heard a crack and they then freed off.remove the metal shield(pic8)after this i seem to recall removing a 10mm nut nearby to move 2 pipes to the right in order to wiggle the drivers mount out(take a pic to show the mount in position before removing the mount so you know how it should be positioned..note how you get the old mount out to work out how to get the new one back in.....believe me its not easy to line things back up you may have to jack the oil pan up or down especially i noticed on the passenger side mount ....the passenger side mount is more awkward to do as a pipe and the alternator is in the way......very impotant always put the 2 long 16mm bolts in first once you have the shield cover lined up but at the same time line the 2 triple square m8 bolts up that go on the base of the shield..before putting the top 18mm bolt in(once bolts in position according to youtube the 2 long 16mm bolts should be tightened to 50nms and the 18mm bolt to 90nms....but 90nms seemed a bit tight so i did 80nms as i didnt want to over tighten.....please note on the drivers side mount i had to put a crow bar in to line one of the holes up....and on the passenger side once i put the 2 long 16mm bolts in i then had to pump the oil pan up a bit to get the 18mm bolt to line up...apologies for been long winded and hope you got the drift of it all....audi wanted £££ to do these.....tip... on the passenger side the wiring can get in the way of the shield when putting the shield back on. so i moved it to the outside of the shield as it should be in pic(10)last pic showing old mount on the left and new mount on the right,its a fiddly job so allow a few hours

Great right up and pics 🙂

I purchased a map/system update which also unlocked the android auto and car play... Installed a little under week ago and works great, takes a bit of time but worth it as only £160, search "the nav man" on Google for a look.

Hi Gareth, I visited a couple of "tow bar "experts but got no real help - generally comment was they hadn't seen an Audi towbar before. I don't believe the mechanism is significantly different to others but anyway. One did comment that dirt may be in the housing on the car. I spent almost 2.5 to 3 hours lying on my back beneath the rear of the car and discovered that despite the use of a plug to seal the housing when the tow bar isn't in use there was build up of rust around the neck of the housing which took some time to remove with emery paper, WD40 and a sharp screwdriver. the main shaft inside was fine and well greased. Once I had that done the tow bar fits perfectly every time. Lesson learnt! Get the feeling not a great design here. Kind regards Brian

Thanks. glad to hear your thoughts. I will be looking at one on Sunday :)

My battery is new, bosh. I will try with this relays but i didn t understand, did I must change all relays or just this two?

Try your battery first. A failing battery can cause all sorts of electrical issues.

Hello Liz, Thanks for joining, and sorry to hear of your issue. Pending other responses, some of the following may help:- USA legislation appears to have far more clout with calling car manufacturers to account than it ever did, or will in the U.K. ’Has anyone else had a similar problem?’ To a large extent, that’s irrelevant, since the hard truth is that any combined ‘evidence attack’ at Audi is realistically unlikely to be effective. Your situation needs sorting, and to me, the Audi quote is not surprising, but there are alternative avenues where this can be fixed much ( in caps) cheaper. Comparison:- family member needs a new alternator on their A4. Audi part cost = £1,300. Aftermarket Bosch part = c£300. No brainier as they say. Local garage will fit Bosch alternator, resulting in an a substantial saving over Audi’s daft charge. Why not go down that route Liz? Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. we can point you to suppliers if that helps. Starter motor alternator? These are two different components.

Just to close this topic and avoid causing any confusion, the photo I uploaded in the first post is not the EGR valve. The EGR valve and cooler are located on the lower left rear side of the engine. The side of the valve can been seen looking through the gap indicated by the box in the photo. Foy anyone wanting to attempt this as a DIY, I can confirm it a 6+ hour job, and requires a great deal of patience With regards to the Cataclean, I used it back in April and drove to work (~35 miles) in 5th gear so the revs were at around 2000rpm There are several corners and roundabouts within 0.5 mile of leaving work before I get onto the A road. On the way home, I instantly noticed the car was much smoother accelerating so ran the Cataclean through another 35 miles. I took some measurements from the particulate filter before and after that can ben found here: Obviously it didn't fix the P2002 error because at the point at which the light comes on, removal is the only option. However in my view Cataclean is a superb product (thanks @Stevey Y). The car still feels very smooth when cold even before having the EGR Cooler and Valve replaced, so I have continued to use it at the frequency recommended. I've since mentioned it to others for their cars (other Audis, VW, BMW, Vauxhall) with mileage ranging from 60 - 240k and they have all reported the same outcome from the initial dose.

Hello fed up with Audi. The brake. Pressure sensor location and fitment is well documented on YouTube, with idiot proof guide for us less than competent mechanism. I bought a genuine one off eBay, for £38, and it took me 2-3 minutes to fit it. open bonnet, bulkhead offside, pull of the rubber moulding, and lift the plastic panel to access the servo. You will then see the brake pressure sensor attached to a tube which lead to the servo. on the sensor, pull back the white clip and disconnect the electric plug. Reach in, and either side of the sensor there are two plastic clips which hold it in place, ease these two clips apart, and pull the sensor upwards. You will hear a rush of air as it disconnects from servo. Replacement is as easy as removal. Problem solved in 2 minutes for which the stealership wanted £425!,,,,,, good luck.

Cancel. Nowhere near the pedal. Next to the brake fluid reservoir under bonnet ahead of steering wheel under plastic cover.

Part 3 - Fixed So the problem go worse to the point the car was stopping while driving. roughly 30 seconds from starting and moving away to then flash warnings and refuse to start. I limped home after 10 minutes of trying to start. Relays 614 and 395 are apparently know issues and I bought 2 new relays from a VW garage. Cost circa £20 each. They didn't seem damaged or broken but replacing them has worked well. Getting to the ECU box on the right hand side required removing the windscreen wipers and black plastic under the window but was otherwise okay. Since being replaced I've had 24hrs of okay starting and driving. if anything fails I will update here Ben

I’ve got six cars. One is under restoration which should take years to do, and one is a Triumph Herald 13/60 estate. I use the Triumph to carry my five dogs out for shooting or just general dog walking. Last week I received notification of the road tax for the RS6 ; it was £600. My other cars have significantly larger engines so what will their road tax be ? I’ve decided to SORN the RS6 and put myself on the insurance of my wife’s Alfa Romeo. For the first time ever, the cost of road tax has made me wince. Using a car has now become seriously painful..

Just call me Carlos! At the start of the year I had 3 working cars now I have non. Was driving my daily ford Kuga yesterday, and whilst coming to a roundabout on a 40mph duel carriageway I attempted to slow down and my brakes failed. Pedal went to the floor this resulted in a collision with another car. Fault seems to be intermittent as when car was being delivered home brakes were working again! However, I can't use the car with a intermittent fault like this 🤦‍♂️