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Thanks for being in touch Linds. When you say your small garage tightened the belt, and it now makes a noise - concerns. I’m also intrigued to work out how you actually know the belt is tighter than it was. If (in caps) the belt is tighter than it should be, are you happy to entrust the fitting of a new belt and assembly to them? Water pump? - if cambelt driven on your engine. Wondered what you propose to do about that. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hi where to begin, ask anyone on here and I am certain that I would be classed as an enthusiast I have owned multiple Fords, Alfa Romeos, and the Audi, through my connections and experience I have discovered many things, foremost that FSH from dealers is about as useful as a chocolate fireguard, you would be better off having a independent garage with the pile of receipts you mention in your video at least thats physical evidence of work done and the parts used, I wont bore you with the experiences I have had in the last thirty years with dealer warranties but suffice to say I have had to fight tooth and nail to get what I wanted and only failed once, the manufacturers of these cars sell their wares on the premise that they will do 18k between oil changes and air filters only need changing every 40k, its utter garbage I service my own vehicles and stand by the statement that sort of service schedule will terminate your engine, my qualification for that statement is that as a cab driver I have done over a million miles between five vehicles one in particular I sold with 360k on the clock, I have a good working knowledge of brakes and transmission as well as diagnostics, Audi parts are hyper expensive and always on back order, the best way to get round this is to get the part number then go fishing on line, thats when you find most of those parts come from Febi, Bosch, Hella and you pay about a third of the price because they are not in a badge engineered box with VAG on it, your idea is sound in principle but are you actually going to get anymore than Joe average out of the dealers?, the Bar stewards don't even want to honour the extended warranties, have a look on this forum there are loads of examples of this, you may well be better starting a spares scheme negotiating with parts suppliers in Europe, I have never had to ask anyone to get me a service history as I have always created my own. Steve.

Hi all, I came across an issue recently that appears common enough for people to post with requests for solutions but unusually where I failed to find a concrete fix. So here is my stab at this: The other week I went to do an oil check, pulled the bonnet release level and to my dismay felt no resistance and the bonnet remained firmly shut. Bugger – how to get the bonnet open? There is no access from the front – even destroying off the plastic grill will not get you to any bolts that will help. What is the solution without resorting to a can opener and consequentially a new bonnet?? Here it is… It will be much better to download the attached pdf as this has pics that will help a lot, but instructions with no pics are: 1. Go to B&Q (or equivalent hardware store) and purchase a 4-6mm diameter steel rod between 70 cm and a meter in length. Mine cost £2.60!!! 2. Get a decent vice and make two 90-degree bends at each end of the rod about 10 cm from end of rod by hand (I off-set each end by 90 degrees approx.), to make a ‘emergency bonnet release tool’. 3. Get the front of the car on ramps or jack up as high as possible. Remove undertray and get a good torch and get underneath…. 4. You need to locate the bonnet lock mechanism – it’s at the top of the radiator fans. It will be very hard to see… From below, at the right angle, you should be able to see the underside of the lock mechanism look for the large spring. 5. The reason you are unable to open the bonnet might be: 1, the cable has snapped; or 2, (as in my case) the end of the cable has come lose from the lock mechanism. The 2nd issue is common if you have had the front off and lock carrier into the service position and the cable-end has not been seated back in properly… 5. There are actually 2 sites for a cable to connect. If you have a RHD vehicle then the cable seats into the lower slot; if a LHD then upper slot. You need to get the end of your ‘emergency bonnet release tool’ into one of these two slots, and then twist using the lock housing to lever off and move the release mechanism. If you get into the lower slot the twist right; if you get into the top slot, then twist left. If you use a tube spanner or the end of a ring spanner to get on the other end of the rod where the other 90-degree bend is then you get more force and the bonnet should open! Brilliant. 6. I then decided to add a bit of thick plastic cut to size to cover the cable end housing to stop it coming out again. Drill a small hole and tap a screw into it but do not tighten yet. 7. Reinstall the lock, and reseat the cable end properly, then swing the plastic down over the cable end and tighten screw. Not sure if this will work/last, but at least you now have an ‘emergency bonnet release tool’ to sort it… Hope this is of some help…. Bonnet open solution.pdf

Oh Father in Law!

Glad you got sorted 🙂

Thinking of selling my 1990 Coupe E, looking for some guidance on value if possible. 180k miles, starts and runs fine, been sat in garage for several years, original wheels, manual replaced gearbox. Tired interior and age related scratches on body but solid, no rust.

Hi Magnet, Thanks for commenting. I had to drive my car today 70 miles the noise was not apparent ongoing but just when turning on the engine and going slower. I know the belt is tighter because pre garage visit- I took off the casing to see the cam belt - I wiggled it and it was more loose. On hearing the change in sound - rechecked under the casing and the cam belt is definitely tighter. I asked the garage after changing the bolts if my cam belt was OK and they did not say they had done anything to it. The independent garage specialise in audi and use genuine parts. They seem to have a good rep. The water pump is on the opposite side on my 1.4 petrol engine I am told. I am thinking of going back tomorrow to ask them about it. (Noise).

Hi Steve, thats not cynicism its a lifetimes worth of trying not to be had over and as with all of us we fail occasionally, good spot with the email part, this gentleman wont give a deposition of what his precise plans are or what is the product he intends to market, I like you am beginning to smell something that is hidden under a ton of sandbagging prose which never realises any tangible conclusion, no need to reply if this isn't good for you ,the question remains, what isn't good. Steve.

Really not sure. Will keep you posted if I get it sorted

Bill. The Audi service schedule is more or less all you need do to keep it in decent condition, though I would add two caveats: 1/ Change the cambelt ahead of schedule if it has not been replaced for a few years. Even though the car may not have reached the recommended mileage, (you have not mentioned the actual distance covered since the belt was last changed,) belts can degrade even when not used. Given the consequences of belt failure abroad it makes sense to my mind to change it in advance. 2/ Take the car for a fast motorway journey of about half an hour well before your next continental holiday. That will reveal any faults that may need to be sorted out before you go abroad.

Hi Stephen (Alpha Omega), No worries, we need a few sinics dotted about! I don't understand how your email was on any page (what page specifically?) without you putting it in, I can't imagine the Google form pre-populates, maybe it does. No need to reply if this isn't for you, all good. Christian

I solved the vibration of the airbag at low revs by lining the space under the airbags with this packing foam. It's quiet for now. 🙂

Well i finally got my coolant leak issue resolved. Hose and seal issues. So extended warranty wouldn't cover it. Dealer said they will cover costs as gesture of good faith. ( i did wait a while for an appointment) I am pleasantly surprised, and faith in the dealers has been considerably restored. Any other pleasant dealership stories out there.

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂 Those v70s were great!

Not a lot to go with there Matt. Oil level light? Oil pressure light?

Hi Andy unfortunately not, Audi have all the codes for every model from 2011 up and wont supply that information to any outside key suppliers, its not like the old days when you got a dummy key and just coded the new transducer in that key via the ignition. Steve.

Ok thanks for reply. Took it to main dealer and of course diagnostic test did not reveal malfunction so advised to monitor it. However, later I did notice that if I pull handle hard it seems to stop it from locking but I still do not think this should be necessary so will see how it goes.

Hi lot of common sense on that statement, that’s what I was planning to do myself ,Audi dealership what a letdown 1 st time buying from them my 1 Audi was back in 80 s Audi 80 cd thanks for thoughts regards AR

Welcome Alberto, Are you saying you and/or your son are capable of safely renewing brake pads? It seems you have already bought replacement pads. Since the seller seems disinterested in sorting it out, why not carry out your own assessment of the remaining brake pad thickness, and simply renew them - since you have them. Worse possible case:- brake pad wear light remains on after you have done that -? Worry about sorting that out when you get to that point. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Audi have replaced the drivers door latch under warranty part no. A4K2 837 016 H the car still at Audi checking hand brake .

Had the same problem, Audi replaced lock system, A4K2 837 016 H …. Audi part

Getting my lock system replaced at the local Audi garage on my A6 2021 .. had the same problem

Hi thats not the service position thats the motor knackered, they don't have a service position, this is a well known problem as its a bad design a percentage of water gets past the spindle seal and terminates the motor. Steve.

Hi guys, first time here, just seeing if anyone was interested in my FiL’s A4. He’s lovingly looked after it from new, first registered in September 2000, stacks of paperwork and only 94,000 miles. He’s only selling as has finally taken the plunge and bought a new Q2 (at age 83!) so this is no boy racer car. Rare-ish 2.4 petrol, runs well, tax to September, MOT until July. Bad points - slight scuff to front wing, little bit of bubbling on roof, but nothing you’d not expect for a 24-year-old car. Garaged every day, and Audi of course offered peanuts for it. Tbh he’d rather see it go to a good home. Currently located in Redcar. Please inbox with any questions, I’ve tried to be honest but I’m not a specialist so please let me know if I can help. Cheers.

Thanks Cameron, Take it you have searched EBay, and registered your ‘Want’ on on-line breaker link systems such as Partsfinder - there are more. Good luck and kind regards, Gareth.

NICE B5 BUD

Hi Steve, I personally would not go anywhere near that one it looks like cheap trouble until you get the bill for the rebuild, go for a later engine thats got some history and runs, not some vague statement that it did and then spent an indeterminate time in storage, no milage, I think he wants to go to the pub on someones £80, I have made the same mistake in the past especially when driven by desperation, take your time send your cash wisely and make sure what goes in at least works. Steve

Let's not forget we also had a pandemic in 2020 which shut most of Europe.

Oil level sensor Paul?

Hi , 2017 a6 with the same leak on both sides of the car , running down A frame and into foot well . The water as I'm sure is the same for most gets in where the water flow / level becomes to much for the drain and builds up ( doesn't take much ) it overflows to the inside of the wind defector and the leak gets in where there is a steel spring finger . Water gets in where it locates towards the front .... BUT regardless of that , iv found at the rear of the spring finger , under hole is a 10mm × 10mm square hole in the frame on both sides which flows directly in onto the headliner. Joke of a design. I'm working on a fix at the minute 🤞

Hello Jay, The definitive answer lies in the build record, and you should be able to obtain this from Audi Cust. services, or possibly through a dealer - both through the VIN. Possible theory:- delayed release due to the chip crisis?? Kind regards, Gareth.

Audi Coventry run the diagnostics and found no faults. So I went to Rugby services to try their 350kwh charger... and it charged perfectly. Then I realised that the charger cable was on the right and plugged easily into the DC charging port on the right (drivers) side of my etron as I had entered the bay nose first. I recall the chargers that had been problematic at Woolley Edge and Wetherby had cables on the left side and it was quite a stretch to drag them across the bonnet to plug in as they wanted to retract. So I surmise that was the issue i.e. the charging cable was not properly seated. Next time I will reverse in if I use these chargers.

Ditto what Gareth wrote. Let me add that it is always wise to change the water pump belt at the same time as the cambelt because the same expensive work is needed to access them both.

Hello Charlie, Yes, the new battery has to be coded to the car. Kind regards, Gareth.

Will do me for now.

remapping with adblue delete should help,

Loving those wheels 👍

New here, never owned an Audi until now heres a wee pic

Hi can anyone help my car is throwing on the EML with the code for running lean on bank 1. Also it sometimes has a slight misfire. Do you how I can fix it?