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@Magnet No Gareth. £695.00 for the two years cover - paid upfront OR a 24 monthly payments. No interest. You've added the upfront payment to the 24x monthly ones and so paying twice for everything! 🙂 Give me credit Gareth! My fairly 'local' garage that i know, deal mainly with 4x4s. They'd be wanting in excess of £695 to match the equivalent of what the Audi garage will do and give. The £695 also includes 2 MOTs I’m happy to put my trust in a garage with qualified Audi engineers.

Thanks Gareth, You're spot on. The replacement window motor didn't solve the problem. However I decided to have a closer look and the wiring loom and found two wires with splits in the plastic coating. I repaired these with insulating tape and it's fixed!

Hey Guys, First time on this forum! I bought an A6 C8 in August 2024, everything seemed well until I noticed a huge puddle behind the drivers seat footwell a few weeks ago. It appears its the same/similar problem everyone is also experiencing, took it to Audi Manchester a few days ago for a check - £145 an hour! they said they needed another 8-10 hours to remove the seats and carpet to identify the leak!! Decided not to pay the £1400 minimum and took the car home. My issue is exactly the same as Mandeep. Will be taking it to an independant garage for a diagnosis (cheaper labour rate) In the meantime drafted a letter to send to Audi head office, I will paste it below in case anyone else needs to use the draft etc Going off all the posts above i'm sure Audi are aware of the issue, whether they will honour the repair remains to be seen, but not holding my breath. I will report back once I have had a response from head office. Dear Audi Customer Services, I hope this message finds you well. My name is ******* *****, and I am reaching out to formally raise an issue with my Audi A6 C8, which I believe stems from a known design flaw. I have been experiencing water pooling under the carpet in the rear footwell, specifically behind the driver’s seat. After conducting some research, I discovered that this is a common problem among Audi A6 C8 owners, and Audi has issued a Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) outlining the issue as a design fault. You can view the TSB here: TSB - Audi A6 C8 Water Leak Additionally, I came across this thread on the Audi Owners Club, where other owners have reported the same issue: Discussion Thread - Audi Owners Club This issue is one that Audi is already aware of, and it has even led to a class action lawsuit against the company, specifically related to the water leaks in the Audi A6 C8. This highlights the extent of the problem and reinforces that it is not an isolated issue, but a design flaw that has affected many owners. Despite this being a known problem, I recently paid £152 for a diagnostic check at Manchester Audi, yet they were unable to identify the source of the leak. However, based on my online findings, the TSB issued by Audi, and the class action lawsuit, it is clear that this is not an isolated incident and is related to a design issue, rather than something I have caused or neglected. I am aware that Audi has previously honoured this issue and, on occasion, has fixed the problem free of charge for affected customers. Given that this is a design flaw and not an error on my part, I kindly request that Audi UK address the issue in a similar manner, as a goodwill gesture. I trust that Audi UK will stand by the quality of its vehicles and rectify this issue without further delay. I would appreciate a swift resolution and look forward to your prompt response. Thank you for your attention to this matter. I hope this letter helps someone who may need it.

Thank you.

Brilliant mate, glad you stuck with it and got it sorted. Well done.

SOLVED. I found an index for code in the Steering Column control unit, 3 of the values were incorrect, rewritten - warning symbols have disappeared and power steering is working again. Thank you for the advice.

From the 2018 broshure it looks like it is only in the City Assist pack. Front pre-sense is standard, but rear only with pack. This is the City Assist info and has 3 parts: Audi Side Assist When activated, the system aids the driver when changing lanes. Audi Side Assist monitors the area behind the vehicle, using radar sensors located discreetly in the rear bumper, informing the driver with a visual warning signal in the door mirror if there is a vehicle in their blind spot or approaching quickly from behind Pre-sense Rear Monitors vehicles following from behind, and if a potential collision is detected, the driver is first warned visually via a flashing light. Audi Pre-sense Basic measures (e.g. closing windows) are initiated and then if a collision is unavoidable, the system will tighten the front seat belts. The system is deactivated when towing Cross Traffic Assist Front Within system limits, warns the driver of traffic crossing in front or to the side of the vehicle, using vehicle sensors. The system first alerts the driver visually and then acoustically via the MMI. A brake jolt is applied if a potential collision is detected. The system can also assist the driver at crossings and exits with poor visibility, and warn against a possible collision with oncoming traffic detected from the side

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂 Looks lovely 🙂

Update- I seem to have fixed this issue by resetting the MMI- so far so good.

Just joined hoping someone would like to buy my wifes cherished dark blue A4 Cabriolet. 2 lady owners, 54000 miles, FSH and always garaged. She is looking for around £3000, having been offered £2400 by an unpleasant dealer who test drove it.thanks Bob

Thanks Doug, I have emailed the letter directly to Audi UK, but as you went through your local dealer and they honoured it I think i'll also send them one for good measure. Thanks

Thanks!

There seem to be a lot of unknown factors in this conversion Steve, any one of which could bring the project to a dead stop. It is not something I would have taken on even 40 years ago when I was willing and able to get my hands dirty, unless there was certainty about the result.

‘Evangelical’ Spartacus!?

Thanks the mgzt v6 is another they have a pipe and thermostat housing available in alloy. All down to cost at the end of the day in our throw away society. I have an engineer that makes me bits once in a while will maybe send him a plastic one to see what he thinks

No, the fob batteries will not cause that. It might be worth looking at the wires inside the rubber bellows between door and frame. Fracture of those wires is a common fault in other models.

I've decided to postpone my appointment with Audi, I need the car. Also, the car is running ok, so I'll just keep monitoring it for the time being.

So, I took the convertible out this morning, keeping it in normal performance before it warmed up. After about a mile, I got the flashing glow-plug symbol, and a reduction in power. 🤔 I got to my destination, and switched off. When I restarted, the DPF warning came up, but without the glow-plug lamp, and performance was normal. Now up to normal temperatures, I drove it at 70 in fourth gear for about three miles, but on restart, the DPF symbol is still there. I sat on the driveway with the engine idling, and Carly plugged in. It came up with an odd code - something to do with intermittent signal from the seat belt circuit, and not connected to anything about the engine, so I cleared and rescanned - clean...🤔 I'm going to take it for a spin this afternoon with Carly plugged in to see if anything comes to light. I spoke to my mate at Norwich Audi, who tells me that a forced DPF re-gen is £200 - but advised me to shop around. He also mentioned, in passing, that a new DPF was £2,500... 😱 So, I've got it provisionally booked in at CAT Automotive next Friday, for investigation. Their comment was that they need to see why the DPF isn't re-genning on its own, and cure that problem, rather than just addressing the symptom and forcing a re-gen. I'll keep updating this thread - but please jump in with ideas... Cheers, Mike 😎

Thanks Steve, Ill let you know how I get on.

Would be good to know if you do get a diagnostic check done if it does flag any faults, we have had the same done twice on our car and no faults found, we have been recommended to get a recon gearbox for the car ??

Fantastic news, thank you for updating us 🙂

Welcome Dermot, thanks for joining, and sorry to hear of your issue. Please allow me to be direct:- it doesn’t matter if anyone else has had this issue - you have, and it’s unacceptable! To me, the all important thing is that you have everything written down as a record, including phone calls and responses. Not meaning to be personal, but is there any degree of finance involved with this car? If so, you would be wise to notify them in writing of this issue, and state that you will be rejecting the vehicle if not correctly fixed by ‘x’ date. Obviously copy the dealer and Audi Customer Services. Please keep us updated Dermot, and let us know if we can help further. Regards, Gareth.

Don't forget your consumer law. If the item (car, TV etc) goes faulty in the first 6 months of purchase it is assumed the fault was there when you purchased it, therefore you're entitled to a refund. If you've bought it on finance (even partially) then you could ring your finance company, explain the situation and tell them "the vehicle isn't fit for purpose" and as such you want to end the finance agreement. This should get the finance company to get involved and hopefully sort it quicker. As let's be honest, a finance company has a bigger legal team than you or I.

No probs please keep us posted on how you get on

Please keep us posted on how you get on

Any good 3rd party fully integrated CAN bus tow-bar electronics will deal with all of the advanced features, however when I researched this these were at least twice the cost of a dumb system. In the end I opted for a genuine Audi tow-bar retrofit for a stupid amount of money but it just works and does lots of smart tweaks to the suspension, gearbox and engine that make towing 1.6 tonnes effortlessly.

AUDI A3 SPORT/SPORTSBACK 17 INCH ALLOY WHEELS (RIMS ONLY - NO TYRES). 5X112 BOUGHT THESE TO PUT ON OUR A3 AS A WINTER SET, AS HATED THE BLACK SEAT LEON ONES I WAS USING, BUT I'VE SINCE MANAGED TO GET MY HANDS ON A SET OF 18'S WHICH I'LL BE USING INSTEAD SO SELLING THESE CHEAP TO RECOVER MY MONEY. THESE ARE THE 5-SPOKE STYLE AND ARE A STANDARD FIT ON THE AUDI A3 SPORT/SPORTBACK. ORIGINALLY OFF A 2014 A3. STUD FITMENT/PCD IS 5X112. CODES OFF THE BACK OF THE WHEELS: - 7.5Jx17H2. - ET51 - 8V0601025BK - 003004/2012 - X1.02 UPP UW1 - MADE IN POLAND WHEELS ARE IN PRETTY NICE CONDITION, A FEW MINOR MARKS HERE AND THERE BUT PERFECTLY PRESENTABLE AS THEY ARE (TAKEN PICTURES OF THE WORSE EFFECTED AREAS). NO CRACKS, NO WELDS CANNOT SEE ANY BUCKLES OR FLAT SPOTS. COME WITH ORIGINAL CENTRE CAPS. *NO TYRES, RIMS ONLY* (USUALLY THESE WOULD COME WITH 225/45/17 TYRES, BUT ARE NOT INCLUDED) CASH ON COLLECTION ONLY. £100 ono

Thanks. I have a Carly and will give it a scan…👍

Can't say I've heard of it. You could always get it checked by Audi or an independent Audi specialist

I have a 2024 A4 204ps petrol and it has mild hybrid so I'd be surprised if they hadn't carried it over to the new car. If you've had an Audi with mild hybrid in the past then it looks like they've made the energy recovery greater in the newer models. In my 2022 A5 coupe I could feel the car slowing slightly with it when I took my foot off the throttle but that effect is greatly exaggerated in the newer ones. It's not a bad thing, it's just getting used to it. I generally don't brake unless I have to slow down suddenly or for junctions so it took a while to get used to it kicking in. Especially when it decides instead to put the car into neutral and let it coast. I imagine that it's closer to how EVs behave with their energy recovery

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂 yep it can be changed. You're probably best going for an aftermarket apple car play/android auto set up. You can buy these online.

Update in regards to my situation. Replaced the sensor with part from AUDI, and not triggering error message anymore. No need for coding either.

While I am sceptical of these fuel additives, I am open to persuasion by long term results. The treatment may solve a sticking pressure switch in the short term but I question if it can solve the more fundamental problem of the exhaust system being blocked by soot, which is what the DPF switch is telling you. If the treatment fails to work I understand it is possible to induce an exhaust regeneration with VCDS or similar equipment. Others here may be able to confirm this point.

Yes, the new battery was replaced following AUDI/VW BATTERY CODING USING VCDS. This was done a few months ago now and car has been working perfectly since(even the Start/Stop system began to kick in again as it hadn't been with my ailing battery). Latest is that I booked the car in at Audi Guildford on Monday for a diagnostic appointment(£150) and included the fault code output I posted here. I took the car out for a brief road test earlier and even after driving it quite hard(>5000 rpm), there were NO further issues, NO EPC warning light etc., so all seemed good(I wasn't driving hard when the fault happened). My opinion is that the fault was triggered by the hot weather we had yesterday in the UK, that coupled with possibly some part of the fuel system that has degraded over the past 11 years. Hopefully, Audi(Lookers) can shed some light on whether anything needs replacing. My main concern was whether the car was still drivable after yesterday and all I can say is so far so good. I'll be wary the next time I'm on a long run though 😬. Any comments ? Thanks, Richard

I replaced the sensor and the fault disappeared you can watch on you tube how to replace it was a bit fiddly but took minutes. I have a q5 2019

I understand now. If the car has a rear facing camera or radar linked to the brakes than it makes sense to disable that system when towing. I assume, perhaps wrongly, that Audi would have planned for that possibility and that the electrical connections at the tow ball would automatically disable that function.

Thanks @Steve Q, battery was replaced recently. I did google some of the fault codes and this looks a good match for the issue that occurred yesterday. https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2017/MC-10127910-9999.pdf Referenced from this article https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/981284-Fuel-Issue-Diagnostics I haven't tried the car yet today but it is cooler so it may be ok at least for me to get it to a garage. Thanks Richard

It might be worth you speaking to Audi to see if they can tell you.

And no more AC, which is not what you want in this weather. Will you get it fixed?

Hi. When I fitted my spare wheel it dropped in underneath the boot floor, so there is no difference in the space available in the main boot. However, depending on the tyre and the fittings already fitted to the chassis underneath the floor you may get either more or less space for tools etc. my tools sit inside the spacesaver tyre which is handy. Hope that helps you out 👍

Looking on autotrader of 24 models onwards most are not hybrid and all the 204ps ones aren't hybrid.

Please keep us posted on how you get on 🙂

So i have done the Heater core matrix change and it was not difficult without any mechanical knowledge, however would recommend to have someone to help you as at some stages it looks like you need another pair of hands just for holding a pipe in position or a torch. Started by removing the glove box and some covers on the passenger side: Then you will be able to see the heater core and pipes. After this, remove the media unit and disconnect all cables, all colour coded and different types of connectors, so it will be easy to connect back, but just in case, take a picture for reference. Remove the foam cover And remove the fan, few screws holding it. Remove the sensor in front of the heater matrix, which is blocking the bottom part of it. Place a tub under and start loosening the pipes. After that, push the pipe out of the way and slide the heater core out. Change the core and do everything back in reverse. I have bought new seals and clamps as well for the pipe, don`t need to, but it was just in case. Would at least recommend changing the seals. Was very difficult to alight the pipe and at the same time tighten the screws when putting back together as there was not a lot of room and make sure you put clamps facing the same way as they were due to not blocking the plastic going back in at the bottom of the heater core. Prior to the task, I completely flushed the coolant and changed the coolant tank, which I bought for 30£ as there was a lot of residue sitting at the bottom of it. Job done in April. Any questions I will try to answer when I can. Thanks and good luck,

Seriously mate, I'd try this method first as it's really simple (especially as you have two keys), works perfectly, and is so idiot proof even I managed it at the first attempt. You don't need to mess around with the VCDS clearing memory slots or anything like that and you'll have both your keys programmed in two minutes with zero fuss. I'd change the batteries in them first to save messing around in the future. The information and instruction you need starts 9.00 minutes into the video. I wish I'd found it ages ago as it would've saved me a load of hassle in the past. Let us know how you get on please. 2003 A6 C5 key reprogramming (two key method) - Audi A6 (C5) Forum - Audi Owners Club (UK)

Hi Frank, I agree with all the comments you've received so far, but cant emphasise enough the importance of the offset. I have gone through a wheel changing exercise myself on my Audi and it took me months and months to find wheels I liked and that would fit. The offset can determine where on the hub the wheel will sit and whether its likely to fowl any brake or suspension components. Fortunately there are easily accessible websites that can give you a guide indication of how your new wheel will fit, they will ask you for your existing wheel fitment and the new wheel fitment your proposing. They will ask you for the existing and new wheel radius and width, and also existing and new tyre sizes. They will also ask you for the offset of both existing and new wheels. The offset is often referred to as the 'ET' followed by 2 numbers and this is usually stamped in the wheels casting on the back of the rim. Just as an example my existing wheels had an offset of ET31 (stamped on the reverse of the rim) and the new wheels I was proposing had an offset of ET40. If you want a smooth and not so bumpy ride, try and and avoid tyres with a profile of less that 40. Hope this is helpful

it is not because my wheels are damaged , i just want to change them to 16" ones to get a better softer ride , 17" low profile ones give you a harsh ride , spoils the fun of the audi a1

Hello everyone! Here I am back with some major updates! I picked up the car from my mechanic after completing all the work mentioned earlier. The car is running great—in fact, I’ve already driven over 2,500 km with it since I bought it. There’s still a bit of uncertainty with cold starts, but aside from that, I’m really enjoying a solid and very pleasant car to drive on a daily basis. Over time, I’m noticing a few "notes" about the car, including: I replaced the tires with some high-performance (and fresh) Hankook ones, which significantly improved driving comfort. Unfortunately, I discovered that 3 out of 4 alloy wheels are bent and need to be repaired. Indeed, at around 100 km/h, there’s a strong vibration in the steering wheel, and after 3 balancing attempts, nothing has changed. Regarding the uncertain cold start, my mechanic and I first agreed to use four full tanks of diesel with the addition of Bardahl Top Diesel+. I’m currently on the fourth tank and the issue persists, so we’re going to try something stronger, like mineral oil for 2-stroke engines, to try to "unblock" and clean the Bosch pump from any accumulated sludge. If that doesn’t help, we’ll proceed with replacing the camshaft position sensor and, if necessary, overhaul the pump. Fuel consumption has finally settled into a very interesting range. In fact, I’m now getting 13 km/l (30 MPG). What can I say... I’m really happy!

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Hello Stephen and welcome. If this were mine, I would treat this on a one thing at one time principle. Not reaching temperature is typical of a failing/failed thermostat, so that would need investigating and then renewing to ensure the car is operating at the optimum temperature. Once it’s operating at 90 degrees, you can then set in motion a plan of action for the remaining issues. Kind regards, Gareth.