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IV just bought my first ever Audi and classic. My Dad had one over 20 years ago and I thought I would follow in his footsteps. Drove 10 hours up north to sunny Scotland and gave me no problems on the way. Hope to get it running more smoothly for next summer. Does anyone have any advice on owning, driving and maintaining one? I'm a car guy but not overly confident when it comes to tinkering with cars mechanically. It's a Audi 80 16v 2.0. Thanks Chris

Hi peeps. Just picked up a stunning chocolate brown Q5. 3.0 V6 TDI S-Line. Absolutely in love with it and just on a mission to fix a couple of niggles lol Just turned 42, living on the Essex, Cambridge and Suffolk borders.

Thanks for letting me join. Traveled 10 hours to get this beauty to take it back up north to Scotland a week ago. Needs a few things fixed before next summer. My first classic car.

If there's resistance I wonder if the car thinks there's something blocking the mechanism or boot latch (even if there isn't). Similar to an anti trap feature. Might be worth inspecting all parts of the system for any trapped foliage etc. I remember a member once having an issue struggling with their A3 convertible roof not working and it was because a shoe had got trapped.

I bet the key fob needs a new battery.

Hi, this is my third Audi, I've previously had two Cabriolets - very impressed with my A5 and I'm still trying to get used to all the electronic goodies!!

Does indeed look like water pump Donald - if belt driven pump. Kind regards, Gareth.

Well I decided to bite the bullet, and treat myself to a new car, I now have a brand new Q3 35 TFSI S Line i.5 petrol.

Thanks for the advice Gareth, I've already tried the T Cut method but no joy, I'll certainly try registering with Partsfinder and similar. I'll let you know if i'm successful.

Morning everyone, I’ve just bought my first Audi a 2023 RS3. Pick it up on Saturday and I can’t wait!

It was a battery issue connection was lost to ecu.my scanner is only a cheap one and didn't pick up the fault.

welcome to the forum,lovely car,ive the same model for the last 9 years so feel free to ask any questions and ill help if i can.Greg

Given that: 1/ nobody has access to any hard date regarding durability testing of belts, 2/ Audi advice has been inconsistent and variable over the years, it becomes a matter of opinion and experience when a belt should be changed. I would prefer to change the belt too often rather then too rarely despite the high cost, because the consequences of belt failure are vastly more costly. Others may choose to delay the change as long as possible and risk a wrecked engine. How lucky do you feel?

Just stripped the passenger side door card and the module is identical to the one with auto folding mirrors.

Thank you

I'm assuming that you're talking saloon here? If not, I have the Avant and I seriously wouldn't worry about the boot space, the main difference is that the boot floor is about an inch or so higher than the non-hybrid version which does cause a small lip but nothing to worry about it's still massive, you just lose a bit of headroom. The rear seats also don't fold flat with the boot and have a similar lip between the seat back and the boot floor. I'd take some pics but it's currently stacked full of PA equipment! 😆 If you are talking saloon, then all of the above is of no help whatsoever (but might help others) & hopefully someone else can answer your query.

My 2002 A6 petrol estate started running badly at 82000 miles with the automatic gear change around 2000rpm causing a sensation like a missed beat and I wondered about spark plugs. It ran smoothly above 2200rpm at sustained speed but in traffic it was lumpy to drive with the frequent changes around 2k My trusted VAG reader gave the code in the title saying: 18034 Powertrain Data Bus: missing message from TCU : P1626 The solution took hours to track down across multiple Audi forums so I wanted to share it to maybe save others some time (and money). Change the transmission fluid (ATF) and pan. The 80k service requires this and I’d missed it having only recently bought the car. The garage told me the black burnt smelling stuff that came out was a long way from the green replacement. Now it runs as smooth as silk. Total cost £280 (Sept 2024) There are multiple requests for help on this out there and buried in some replies is the suggestion to change the ATF. This was only confirmed by one user in the searching I did. Thanks to him for posting, I just thought I’d add some confirmation that his suggestion solved my problem. Just wish I’d noted the forum and member’s name. Hope this turns out to be useful for someone else. 👍

Thank you all for you advices I have found that they do pug into the head lights. I cannot see where the other flared end connects to but I am pretty sure they are some sort of drain for condensation inside the housing

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂 nice colour 👍

Hi Will I am surprised that the OHME app doesn't over-ride everything. If have scheduled anything. To comply with Government Regulations OHME won't charge at peak hours. 4pm to 10pm This setting is only ignored if you enable Dynamic Charging or switch to Max Charge. I use Max Charging all the time. Hope this helps. Tony

I think the problem trying to find them as second hand is that very few buyers of a standard A6 will upgrade to 21” wheels. Most will go with the ‘pack’ such as the S-Line or Black Edition which are 19” / 20” as standard. Buyers looking for something better are usually already looking at S6 / RS6.

Cheers lol. I know what it looks like. Knowing my luck it's in the worst possible position. Will do what I can to document it for others

I changed a wheel on my A3 several years ago after hitting a pothole and damaging one. No issue with TPMS. As far as I am aware, VAG don't use sensors in the wheels. There are magnetic rings on the wheel hubs with pick up sensors positioned next to them. Rotational values are stored and any changes at one or more wheels indicates a possible pressure difference, ie a puncture. It's the same setup for the TPMS on my Skoda Octavia VRS.

THERE IS RHD ONES IN THAT LIST

2017 RS5, and had the dreaded brake servo and stop/start warning messages this afternoon... Luckily my car has an extended warranty, so I've called Audi Assist, and someone is on their way - hopefully they'll be able to fit the sensor, and there will be no damage to my ABS! 🙏

Hi the motor electrics have gone, the many symptoms are as follows, no movement, running constantly, partial movement and finally DEAD, easy fix, unplug it at the motor until you get a new unit. Steve.

Hello Peter, Can you please return to the forum to answer the questions you have been asked.

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂

That attitude was abandoned several years ago. Audi is just another car maker cutting corners to gain a bigger market share.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p3519243.m570.l1313&_nkw=1994+B4+Audi+80%2C++HEADLIGHTS&_sacat=0

Whatever the cause, and it may be something else, get the dealer to sort it out.

Hello Audi Owners, So, I thought I'd put up this post for those who, like me, are having a bit of a nightmare with their Audi A6 C7 gearbox shifting. I've been scouring the web, but couldn't find any decent fixes. Lots of people posted about it, but most just ended up taking their cars to the dealer, and there were no updates after that. I got this car about 6 months ago, and at first, I didn't notice the issue. The issue was that the gear shifting felt pretty bumpy when moving from 1st to 2nd gear, especially when stuck in slow-moving traffic. However, if you put your foot down and accelerate a bit more aggressively, it shifted smoothly. That's the easiest way to put it. So, I decided to get to the bottom of it. I started with a gearbox service, changing the oils in both the gearbox and mechatronic, along with the mechatronic filter. No luck, didn't make a difference. Then I turned my attention to the suspension, swapping out the arms. Nope, that didn't help either. I heard a weird noise coming from the CV joint on one side and decided to change the entire driveshaft. Still, no improvement. I was getting ready to tackle the clutch when I dropped by the local garage, and they suggested taking a look at the dual mass flywheel (DMF) because they heard some noise when starting the car. Finally, after swapping out the DMF, the car shifts like a dream now. I'm not saying this is the silver bullet for all shifting problems, but I hope it helps someone out there identify or relate to their issue. To describe my issue better, the scanner didn't show any errors, the car used to jerk from 1st to 2nd with a loud banging noise from underneath. Also, when downshifting from 3rd to 2nd and from 2nd to 1st, it would make the same noise and jolt. When driving faster, I noticed a slight power drop when shifting into 4th and 6th gear, meaning the car didn't accelerate smoothly through the gears during acceleration. Good luck fixing it if you are having the same problem.

Can I assume you have investigated the many suggestions listed in this topic over the past seven years?

Hi I'm also having the seme problem and I've done some investigation into it over quite a few websites and a few mechanics apparently it the door speaker mount seal . There is a mount that bolts to the inside of the door that has a seal that fails . The speaker then bolts to the mount which I also think has a seal to. When I rains heavy water runs down the window into the door panel by design but when the speaker seal fails the speaker is right at the bottom and the seals consetualy getting wet then drying out causing it to crack . My car been back in under warranty 3 weeks ago and I told them then what the fix was but they fitted the full internal door seal instead hence I still have the problem. I hope this I helpful to you. I had someone pouring water onto the door window as I took a video clip at the bottom of the door under the speaker between the door card and the door. If you have a way I could send the clip to you or try do what I did.

Hi I think the point that Steve was trying to get across was if you buy a refurbed unit with the immobiliser shunt built in its plug in and play, if its a used O.E. unit it will need programming, aside from that if its a refurbed unit and it still wont work there is definitely another problem further down the line, I.E. crank position sensor or cam position sensor. Steve.

Thank you.

Sorted it now. After removing the foam moulding I found there were no securing screws for the steel trim as it appears to be the case in earlier models. You simply have to pull back the rubber boot seal along the length of the trim. Then inserting your fingers into flap in the trim you forcefully lift up the trim to release it from the two securing points. The issue for me was resolved by using a screwdriver to operate the boot catch with the boot open. That then locked the locking mechanism. I then unlocked the boot with the drivers door switch. This seemed to reset the locking mechanism. The boot then closed and locked fully.

Hi why go to ECP there are plenty of offers on eBay which are much cheaper thats where mine all came from and if you do get a new unit please buy a new rubber spindle grommet, they go rock hard and shrink thats where the water gets in. Steve

This has happened to me twice and covered by warranty- it’s a known fault.

It may not start at all. It definitely needs coding. If you don't then you could put the car in safe mode. Even on my old A6 C5 the ECU, injection pump and instrument cluster are all linked to the immobiliser.

I agree with Mark, over heating discs. I had this once in my 2002 A6 after extensive Hugh speed driving on the autobahn where I was having to brake hard at different points when cars would just pull out. Eventually the brakes over heated which caused the vibration through the steering wheel. Once cooled down and back to normal driving it was fine.

Could be warped/overheated discs.

Hi, I’m after some advice, I have an Audi A3 cabriolet for sale. It’s a 2005 model with 26,000 on the clock serviced every year at an Audi dealership. Looking for some advise as to what I should be asking for. It’s been garaged at all times so in perfect condition

Hi Nikolay Mine is done through the MMI. Should be explained in the handbook. Tony

That’s awesome, congrats! Will be taking it in next week as currently away with work. They've already told me the workshop is full, parts can be difficult to get, we need to examine it ourselves, can’t say anything until then. Given up on Audi. Hopefully, once it’s fixed I’m going to sell it straight away. I did simultaneously contact Audi UK who had this to say about online forums ” I understand that customers may wish to carry out personal research on the problem presented. However, whilst such internet sites are often a useful source of information, they do not provide a complete picture. The content of internet forums is often based on personal opinions, rather than facts established by diagnosis of the vehicle from an approved Audi Centre.“ I found that funny 🤣

Hi Sachs/LUK are the same company and are the only suppliers to most of the VAG group with the exception of Seat who use Valeo clutches on some models where the engines are SPA units. Steve.

Oh blinking heck Michael - hope it was super cheap, and you like work. First double check it is the internal type. Pretty sure it is but… Why ECP, particularly since they no longer offer discounts on so called retail prices. Didn’t buy much before, since even with the high discounts, they seldom worked out cheaper than alternative suppliers? If it is internal, then it’s obviously gearbox out, and it would be daft not to replace the other clutch components while it’s out. The only make of clutch I would fit would be LUK. Try inputting your reg. no. into Parts in Motion website - down in Exeter. They are usually competitive. Perhaps you can let us know how you get on Michael. Kind regards, Gareth.

Went down the short belt route.So now the belt only goes round the crankshaft pulley, powersteering and the alternator.No more rattles from the Ac Gates 6pk1123 micro v belt.Hope this helps some one else out if they need to bypass there Ac compressor till there pulleys fixed