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https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/334272552920?epid=1342082179&hash=item4dd4325fd8:g:rrgAAOSwuIxhzPYQ&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAAwLkeLc8W%2Bzx4fHuXhK9pqBg6EYklylro5yOOuCr3GTLWYZyGQN46sxrNVZdWfPh0AyeaHnfwx%2Fbl9Y%2BZZs2RkIusq5ft%2BtOM3hY1%2BON93MXjd%2FolAHhsJfco8fRSt46BespUSrfRt68ZsWZ3ClTN%2FexasVsyWEjYjPnaF9a%2BKwQqwA53tEFfDi2R7M1ihqOh1JxnlbPveHy01FuuvuPEmB7hcLxaJuQtNonw1U1G5RZrUjUiiRSdS%2B8sl7dEInkx0A%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR7692pSEYw plenty on ebay regards

Hey, I've done about 5k miles with the 17" run flat tyres and I can say they are alright. Not great though. Because for the first couple thousand miles I was wondering why the hell the steering at high speeds became so imprecise and wobbly. Like when doing long smooth bends on A roads, I had to basically "catch" the car as if it was constantly trying to steer out of the lane. Then I switched the steering from "comfort" to that other mode ("sport"?) and almost immediately felt a relief. It either got better, or I just learned to live with it. As for the ride, 17" run flats don't feel any better than 19" regular tyres on bumpy roads. I can't tell for sure since it's been a long time, but it's almost exactly the same. In the end, the only thing I gained with this replacement is the peace of mind. Perhaps it is worth it. Although, almost no one seems to be repairing even absolutely innocent punctures in run flat tyres in this country 🥶 If I were doing the replacement again, I'd probably go for 18" or even keep the original 19" wheels and buy runflats anyway.

Glad you got sorted 🙂

I found a couple threads on the issue hence the question. https://www.ttforum.co.uk/threads/bag-in-coolant-tank-reservoir-bursting.2030154/ https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=23&t=2056688 Would not put it past Audi to keep doing something daft like this and leave owners to carry the can. If my car has this I will get it removed if it has potential to cause issues, I do not need any more hassle from the S6 POS edition.

Good evening Gareth, Thank you for your message, I have managed to find a specialist in Andover called DPH Services so booked in on Monday 4th, for a diagnostic and investigation so will see what the outcome is hopefully they will find the issue. I will also keep your suggestion in mind re finding a diesel specialist. Thanks I will update the outcome Monday. Kind Regards Deborah

Hello David, Many thanks for joining, and welcome. Where are you picking up your settings and diagram from? In other words, is the source considered reliable. 2005 may just still come under Haynes manuals or similar. All I can say is that the values and tightening torques seem relatively logical, albeit I would have expected the the 1/4 turns to be rather more than that. Way forward:- Armed with a box of biscuits, call in to a trusted local VAG independent and ask advice there. They will have access to Autodata (or similar) on-line systems, which should give them the detail you want. ( Take your V5 Incase the VIN is needed). The only other important thing I would add, is how accurate is your torque wrench? I have a conventional larger one - from 20n. on, and I trust this with torques greater than say 50Nm. I also have a smaller precision one from about 10Nm and up to about 80, and although it’s a well branded make, and has had little use, I don’t really trust its accuracy on the lower torques, so…… In this colder weather, I would be tempted to torque to 40Nm of an evening, leave overnight, and torque to 60Nm the following morning. We take it you are using good quality new bolts. Perhaps you could come back to us David, and let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. All figures quoted as your list, but subject to your confirmation.

New link for the car is https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202311244258159 And the price is now £15,500 🙂

Hi, Audi have confirmed this morning that it will be fully covered under warranty- they are extending the warranty period to 7 years, same as the USA. Sounds like there are parts availability issues though..Got there in the end, thanks for your help.

Just thought I would update on diagnosis and repair. Fault was brake lights on all the time (ignition on) and glow plug light on dash flashing. Scan fault codes identified Brake Light/Cruise control circuit A. Just replaced brake light switch using Audi genuine part £21 and cleared all fault codes. Can get cheaper pattern part but felt worth using Audi part. Fault cured and glow plug light working as normal. A6 Avant 2007 2.0 diesel

Hello George, I guess you will have anticipated that the only safe way out of this is to now scrap the wheel and replace it with a sound one. Just no point in playing around with lives and your insurance. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hi just wanted to let you know I’ve had my alarm mended. Audi had it for 4 days and replaced the alarm battery thing. When I got it home it started again. Local garage fitted new battery and are going to do repairs on 12/11. I did get £250 off my bill from Audi. My thoughts are it just needed a new battery and not the other part. Thanks for all your advice and support. I’m never setting foot in an Audi garage again. sarah

thanks gareth will double check when i get home 🙂

Thanks Gareth, I’ll keep you posted. Gaz.

Thanks Hamza, but I clearly understood your explanation of the symptoms from the start. Where I have difficulty is understanding how the thermostat was considered to be the culprit, when the coolant got up to operating temperature ( and maintained that temperature) quickly enough. My belief is that although they may have changed the thermostat, it has proved not to be the primary cause, and the problem was associated with some malfunction of the heat distribution system - now partially fixed. From what you now describe, although better, is still not totally fixed. No doubt you will be returning it, and perhaps you could keep us informed of the final outcome. Kind regards, Gareth.

This might help: https://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/showthread.php/119583-step-by-step-how-to-replace-bluetooth-module

Many thanks to both Ukwide and Magnet. Confirmed what I already knew, pay cheap and get cheap. Gonna stick with the premium brands. Appreciate the replies. Thanks guys.👍

Hello Gaz, I think ‘…getting away with…’ are the operative words, but you are of course right in believing you can fit whatever brand satisfies the speed and load requirements - and your pocket! As you will appreciate, the trade offs will include road holding ( in both wet and dry conditions), mileage you will get from them, noise levels etc. You will probably find, as I do, that on simple longevity, you will only get what you pay for, and lesser brands tend to wear out quicker, and the miles/£ might well show when you next have to renew them - plus you’ve probably compromised on road holding into the so called bargain. My advice for what it’s worth is to search for the best fitted prices you can find for premium brands, such as Michelin, then compare those prices with the best mid range you can find. I’ve just done the same with a set for our humble A3, and eventually found a very good fitted deal on Michelins at ATS ( never found a good deal with them before, but…). I had considered Uniroyal Rainsport, Vredstein, or Nexen, all of which seem to have had generally good reviews, and there were good deals from the likes of Demon Tweeks, Camskill etc., but by the time you add postage and local fitting charges, none of them worked out to be significantly cheaper than my deal at ATS. Not sure if any of this will help you Gaz. Kind regards, Gareth.

That’s the sort of help that must be applauded. Shame the OP hasn’t returned to the forum since minutes after he posted the plea for help. No doubt he soon will, and thank Stephen for his help.

hi,is it this one ebay item no.....126141309371

Hello Byron, Many thanks indeed for the comprehensive extra detail. I hope this isn’t seen as being dismissive on our part, but if this were mine, I would be entrusting the car back to S.D. since the invoice shows an expected still-within-warranty date of 27 Feb. of next year. It seems to have been complicated by the electronics, and it might just be a simple case of some associated poor connection. I really hope they can sort it for you - without any more major expense! Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks for sharing this walkthrough 🙂

I'd go for prefacelift, get one as closer year to yours as possible. Or that's what I'd do.

Hi you have the correct code but I don't think its the box, it sounds as if it might well be a clutch problem, thrust bearing, flywheel, first motion shaft bearing, drive shafts won't stop rattling if you push the clutch down, especially when you are not moving. Steve.

It would be a mistake, and an expensive mistake at that, to change the gearbox until it has been confirmed as the source of the knock. The noise could equally well come from the clutch or the drive shafts (CV joints), neither of which will be improved by changing the gearbox.