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Hi Raj, In terms of the gearbox, though Audi say it's a lifetime gearbox, there is actually no such thing. I've read that when asked what it means, Audi state that it means lifetime of the gearbox, not lifetime of the car itself. As such, I'm an advocate of servicing the DSG regardless of it supposedly being lifetime as Audi say. I personally aim to do it every 40,000 miles or 4 years (make sure to get the transmission fluid AND mechatronic fluid changed). You'll notice the gear changes are much much smoother. In terms of your shock absorber, I used KYB once and personally not a fan, though I've heard it's a decent brand from others. The ride was too bumpy for my liking. Do not buy from Audi unless you're happy to pay extremely inflated prices. I use AVS Car Parts (vwspares.co.uk) for my car parts and they supply OEM equipment. Give them a ring. You cannot go wrong with Sachs shock absorbers which are the ones that likely came on the car originally. Don't forget it's recommended to do both shocks so that the ride is consistent (also if 1 has gone, likely the other will be going soon).

Dear fellow members, It's about time I wrote to you all. We've said goodbye to the car and I write to say goodbye to you. I contacted a firm in Walsall specialising in left hand drive vehicles. I got the impression it was one man and a couple of sons. Anyway just as I looked forward to some time working on its kerb appeal, the man rang to announce their imminent visit to the Northwest. "Yes, come to us too", said I, and suddenly it was all over. We were left clutching a few hundred pounds, he left hoping to find a Spaniard needing a bargain in which to get home. Perhaps a prospective buyer was already identified (given the haste). Anyway, we're not expecting complaints: as you all know, an Audi of that vintage will just keep on going. However, I am going. Thanks, best wishes and goodbye to all who submitted comments and or advice, yours sincerely Peter Wight

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I've just replaced the CCM in my A6 and this is the best video I've found for reprogramming the key fobs if you're fortunate enough to have two of them. Very clear instructions and worked first time for both of my key fobs with no messing around. The reprogramming information starts at 9:00 but the rest of the video may be useful to anybody that needs to repair their key fob. https://youtu.be/RyNpeZUJtsc

My understanding is that they should operate on demand in any mode except efficiency.

Raj. Audi recommendations in respect of cambelt and water pump have changed over the years so it is not surprising you can not get consistent answers from dealers. Personally I stuck to the old suggestion of 70000 miles. Nobody suffered an engine failure by servicing it ahead of schedule. When it comes to the gearbox you are on your own. You are pushing more power through it and the rest of the transmission than normal, so you can not rely on normal service recommendations. Yet again, nobody suffered a gearbox failure by servicing it ahead of schedule.

I doubt it is an electrical or sensor fault because the electrical system is off when the car sags. It is more likely to be an air leak from the bag, valves, or pipe. I would spray or brush soapy water on all the components and watch for bubbles.

Apologies for the gripe, but the forum has recently suffered from a spate of what can be termed ‘Post and Run’ new members, who seem to think it’s perfectly acceptable to post a plea for help, and simply not return to view the help given. In a more diluted form, help is offered, but is very rarely acknowledged even via. a simple press of the Like button, leave alone a posted Thank You. The last part of the gripe is that we frequently have to ask for additional information, and this extra detail often never materialises. Please remember, everyone who posts replies do so without payment, but it certainly does cost them in time - in terms of the Moderators and Admin back up - a lot of time. So a special plea to all on here who post needing help:- please be respectful enough to acknowledge any help given, rather than simply accept it as a no-cost, no time of yours, free advice service. It’s wearing thin folks, so if you want to retain this service, please respect and acknowledge its benefits. Thank you all for reading this, and above all, agreeing to adhere to the respect that is needed to be shown. Kind regards, On behalf of the Moderators. Please note:- This request is to all members, not just new ones.

Thank you for your advice/reply. 👍👍

thats sound advice Syed

Keep on top of servicing is half the battle. That said, things can go wrong. I think your SOS button is bit of an anomaly and hopefully a one off, but that said I was reading about the light bar on a 2022 Q8 delaminating, and that was a £1,500+ repair, luckily under warranty. If it gives you peace of mind, take out the warranty. Just double-check conditions. I had a non Audi 2 year warranty on my 2017 B9 Avant, and it stipulated services every 6 months which is unrealistic. I now service the car myself and had the Tiptronic gearbox serviced too, Audi would have said leave it.

Noticed my rear light bar has started delaminating in half a dozen places no outside impact damage it’s coming from inside the unit Audi immediately offered to change this under warranty just a heads up to see if yours is ok as they cost around 1600 quid to buy IMG_8669.mov IMG_8669.mov IMG_8669.mov

Hi Ray I’m in a similar boat although I’ve not remapped my engine. Audi said the same on both cambelt and gearbox and I’ve had a local garage say the same on the gearbox. I’m going to change the belt at the 100000 mark. Having remaped the car would probably mean you reconsider the service Intervals. I’m finding it’s an expensive car to run. Cambelt is not a DIY job due to specialist tooling and my clutch pack is on the way out at 80000. Over £2500 to replace at a local specialist. Still it’s a lovely car to drive.

Like a lot of warranties, they act as insurance policies, so basically weighted in favour of the issuer, in this case Audi. You have two options, save the money, actually setting it aside for a potential issue down the road or take out the warranty. Decision would be based on history of the car and maintenance, and overall condition now.

Scrutinise the exclusions very very carefully. Most of these policies are not worth the paper they are written on.

Bit of information for anyone with electrical issues that seem to be most likely down to broken wires in the A pillar loom. The symptoms I had (all on the passenger side) were No door open displayed on the dashboard No footwell lights No puddle lights No door edge red light Door lock button not working with central locking Power windows and speakers were working fine. Everything was pointing to broken wires in the A pillar loom but after a lot of checking visually and with a multimeter everything seemed to be fine on that front. Spent a few hours searching the internet and found a lot of topics suggesting the problem was with the door closed sensor on the lock actuator. Installed a new one this morning and all the problems are cured, worth a try if anyone's having similar problems and has ruled out any other issues. By the way, I did see a few guides on repairing the existing lock but it seems like a fair bit of faffing around for something that isn't guaranteed to work. My new actuator came in at £23 delivered from EBay and works perfectly so that seems the best option to me.

Brandon. In your position I would not be worrying about a wiper/washer repair when the engine does not work. The engine problem could be far more expensive to solve so surely it would make sense to solve that first?

Thanks for all the advice.

Just thought I'd share this link for replacing the window regulator in an A6 C5 as it's the most helpful one I've found. Very clear instructions and tells you which Torx bits and rivets you'll need. The whole process took me about two hours start to finish and I was taking my time to ensure everything was correct. Hope this helps anyone contemplating the same repair. How To: Replacing AUDI C5 RS6 Window Regulator!

You're right, strictly speaking, it should be coded. I've got an old OBDElevan, can't recall if it was possible using that, so will give that a try. If not then a local mech has vcds, so will give them a shout.

Glad to read the problem was non existant. However I believe you still need to code the new battery to the car despite maintaining 12 volts during the swap.

Hi Stevey Y, Thanks for your response. Indeed, I'm sure I did, but I believe I only changed the last digit & not the last 3. I've now learned that about the serial number, so that will come in handy. 🙂 I don't believe you can on my A4 B8 as it's non-UDS. You can only enter 10 or 11 digit part number, 1 or 2 spaces, the battery manufacturer, 1 space and then the 10 digit serial number. Yes, me too, but every battery supplier, aside from Tanya, suggested a 70Ah 760A battery, so I went by popular suggestion. As I said to cliffcoggin above, it wasn't until my engine continued to fail to start after I'd installed the A7 battery that I looked further into the suggestion of using the cars 'starter battery', which I learned was a 92Ah 520A. This is when I posted as above. Apologies, I should have clarified that I changed the pump in the tank around 3 years ago, less than 12k miles ago, for a new Bosch pump, so that shouldn't be an issue. I haven't physically tested it, which I will do tomorrow, but it's making all the right noises, at all of the right times and instances. There is a simple way to test the flow of that low pressure pump, by disconnecting from the HPFP and adding a plastic 500ml bottle; it should reach around 1/3 full when opening the door and after emptying, it should reach a little under 2/3 full when pressing the key. So watch this space on that. Thanks again, Paul.

Hi, £30 for pick up in Norwich area. Otherwise plus shipment costs.

thanks, steve... its getting to where i want it ☺️

Yes, new it was £52k, and the tax is at £600 for 5 years. I knew the huuuuge 'new car' tax was a thing, but i didn't realise it was 5 years. Good news about the oil. I'll keep an eye on it. Expectation is that i'll keep it at least 10 years, but the whole 'no new petrol or diesel cars after 2030' position may change that. I paid cash for it, so no free servicing. They did try to convince me, and said I could pay it off any time without penalty, but the Ts & Cs left me entirely at their whim as far as interest goes - they add it on at the start, not based on the outstanding balance. The ALA does go off when I use that switch, just as it does in the MMI, but it always comes back on after the ignition is turned off and on again. I know I can avoid its actions by indicating, but i've driven reskinned BMWs for 12 years, it's going to be a hard habit to break. Thanks

I suspect there won't be a cheap fix. Your repair sounds like it's worked though

That's good to know

Looks great. Good to hear no additional coding was required.

[UPDATE] I made the decision of the purchase and installed it as of today. It was quite frustrating to take the old airbag off, but eventually got there. The installation was a success. It was plug and play as I expected, no additional coding/adaptations were needed for this specific steering wheel/airbag.

I wasn't aware you could get Audi's navigation system from anybody but Audi. Or do you have something else in mind?

Sounds auxilliary drive belt related, alternator clutch pulley, tensioner pulley, etc.

Picked her up today and I’m chuffed . Especially with the colour . Will hopefully get some better pics up but here’s a quick snap 🙂 u did spec the Audi beam puddle lights but dont seem to have them ? Checked the mmi setting and exterior lights is enabled so not sure about that ?

Sent it to ecu testing and think it was about £250 + vat

Just an update on the situation turns out the egr valve is totally f**cked,all the intake system including head was badly carboned up,dpf I took off & had flow tested & was clear,all 4 injectors were badly scorched on the tips,tested fine ,but were also worm 0.5mm where the washer sits so were never going to seal properly. when I was told the injectors were badly scorched I decided to take the head off & get it pressure tested ,skimmed & cleaned (still waiting to get it back) so now hopefully when she is all back together that will be the end of my injector popping problem.

Wheel will physically fit but you'll need the clock spring from the donor car, air bag and wiring.

Sorry, I’m unable to help with you query, but I’m interested in the outcome.

Just to close this thread, fuel pressure regulator valve checked out. I found a lad who was willing to take it on, but ended up baffled for a while. He removed injectors, seals were fine. Had them tested all were OK, off a little so got them serviced and calibrated. No metal anywhere, so no indication of failed HPFP. He stripped the top to get to the pump anyway, and removed the solenoid low pressure inlet valve. If this fails car should run in limp mode. Lo and behold it was not actuating, though solenoid resistance was good and impulse present. He had difficulty finding the part number, as Audi will only supply the entire HPFP if this fails. I had the number from the 7zap parts diagram website. Its a Bosch valve and not too expensive. The guys who serviced the injectors had one, so once installed, the car started. Plenty of work, I shudder to think what a main dealer would charge for the HPFP, and the complex work to change it (turbo out, DPF out ). I don't mind the injector servicing, they're all matched up now and in spec. The whole lot cost €840, so I'm happy out. The original consensus of injector failure was incorrect, not helped by the Audi training manual asserting that a failed solenoid valve on the HPFP would not prevent starting, even in limp mode. My man was baffled by this also, but the solenoid seems to have failed in such a way as to have closed the input to the HPFP chamber completely. It's a pity it's so inaccessible also, just a little less clutter and it could be removed and tested early in the game. Not being an official spare part is also strange, perhaps Audi feel that any failure in the pump warrants it's entire replacement, due to the high labour of just getting in there. I hope this helps someone, as the original poster also found it a maze of possible faults. Not helped by no recorded faults due to the purely mechanical nature of the stuck actuator on the solenoid. Thanks to Jason for all his suggestions, though his contributions have mostly been removed except where I quoted him. This is the only critical fault this car has had in my 6 years of ownership, and at 245,000 km, so I'm not complaining.

Heres a cool part I found on another page. It's a washer fluid tank cap that doubles as a funnel to prevent washer fluid spills. It's an OE part on some Skodas and fits right on. Just enough clearance to turn and open. Part number 000096706. Found mine on ebay for £9.