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Believing the rings are worn is not the same as having evidence of it. In your position I would carry out a compression test before making any decisions.

Hi might well be with doing if the pressure slows down it may well be the valve, how many miles has the car done as around that year they are famous for burning oil where they used skinny oil control rings, problem is they let oil up but also down which pressurises the sump, fingers crossed its the aftermarket valve. Steve.

Good morning Josh, Let me start by pointing out that you are in grave danger of discouraging others to help and advise you due to the unfortunate attitude you display in your last paragraph. Only you know the absolute facts about the circumstances you find yourself in, and other’s interpretation will be based solely on your ability to clearly convey those facts in a written form. The use of capitals (and particular bold capital) in the context you use them - on this forum and most others are taken as a demonstration of frustration against those who are trying to be constructive, and that is both rude and unacceptable. You emphasise NEW ENGINE (your caps), and Power Engines, but don’t quantify what you mean by ‘new engine’. Could this be totally ‘new’ à la ex VAG, stripped and fully reconditioned and fully bench tested, or simply removed from a scrapped vehicle, given a power wash down, wrapped in clingfilm and sold as ‘new’ I.e. new to you. I think it would be worth you walking back to the first bus stop Josh, and giving yourself a chance to reconsider what you write. Thanks and kind regards, Gareth.

Hi I would get someone else to check if the system has any gas in it, most independent garages have a decent aircon machine and will check it by seeing if it has ay gas and then pressure checking the system for leaks chances are its either run low on gas or has a hole in the radiator either way Cliff was correct when he said they can't block, therefore I would give the ZOONS at Halfords a wide birth. Steve.

‘Don’t tell him Pike’!

if you can get a good set [or new ones] for that money your doing very well

No idea on warranty, but I’d like to think so. If you’re spanner handy, these jobs are not difficult. Water reservoir normally accessed by removing road wheel, then inner wheel arch liner. Normally a series of Torx screws and a couple of 10mm hex nylon nuts. If the reservoir has a crack, replace. Pump usually attaches with 12v supply, with rubber pipes. It could be leaking at a pipe attachment. Main Audi dealer is £200 an hour, not including parts. This is bread and butter work for an independent garage you trust.

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Hi tried to watch the video but it won't play maybe a photo would be better? Steve.

It's true I can not help you Josh if you are not prepared to either do any testing or provide suitable information to aid a possible diagnosis. If all you want is speculation and guesses then you don't need my help. After all you claim to be "fairly car literate and I'm usually able diagnose and know the problem..." I looked up Power Engines and saw the company supply new and re-conditioned engines, so can you be sure the engine you received was genuinely new? The company lists this for your car: https://powerengines.com/collections/all?filter.p.m.custom.make=Audi&filter.p.m.custom.model=Q5&filter.p.m.custom.year_multi_selects=2016 The price of $3199 is impossibly low for a brand new engine, even before it is shipped from Germany, so what do you conclude from that?

Gregg. Any engine of that era is likely to have significant wear, so you would be better off trying to get yours re-conditioned.

Can I say that I was grateful to both members for their replies

As far as I know it's just the strainer/filter, and a new gasket for the transmission sump. This is quite a good video - regards the transmission brace especially. If it's on the ramp - then check the prop-shaft mount for any play.

Now free to anyone who can collect, if not they will be going in the scrap pile.

The car will be on standalone engine management, so the fuel pump will be run from the ecu via fuel pump relay, so a lot neater. Everything has been taken out so far, even the door wiring as its going fully stripped. More progress in the near future once parts arrive.

That's not a symptom; that's supposition. Is it the same temperature from every vent, or just one? What happens when the temperature setting is raised to hot.

The cooling system of AC does not block up. It commonly loses its gas through leaks, or the compressor can fail, or the belt can snap. Perhaps it is an air duct that has been blocked by a failed flap motor. Please give some symptoms of the problem.

I have never heard of them. Would you provide a link to the equipment please?

Sounds very much like an internal amplifier issue to me. We see quite a few Audis with exactly the same symptoms. Amps has to be resoldered correct way

Thanks to all for taking the time to reply to my post its much appreciated. I do not know how accurate this snippet of information an Audi technican told me but here goes The electric fuel pump is designed to be submerged in fuel to help cooling issues so even when 0 miles is showing there can still be as much as 7 litres still in the tank. Also apparently in Germany running out of fuel on the Autobahn is an offence so this also allows the driver some 60 miles to refill should the car say 0 miles. Either way thanks all at least I know Ive not been short changed with a smaller fuel tank!!

looks like a 63 litre tank. When I fill up at my local Shell a couple of the pump clicks off very early and I can get 4 or so litres more in if I wait 10s after the first click off and don't go full beans on the trigger. I asked my local dealer and they said the pumps were to sensitive and asked the Shell garage and they said the pumps only click off when they detect back pressure and this must be as a result of a restriction in the pipe to the tank. I'm past the point of caring I just fill to the first click off each time and I fill up when my yellow tank comes on if I'm away from home of is it's below 1/4 if I'm on my way home as my local Shell is 28 miles away on the road to my home. Enjoy the car.

Hate to point this out but even if you fit a new steering angle sensor you have to recode it, if it sounds like a lot of work, its not half as much work if you don't get the wiring right as well as the coding, the electronics on these vehicles has always been complex and if you fry a body control module [any one of about five] you then have a serious problem. Steve.

Martin Interesting post re the costs and benefits....or pitfalls....of using an Audi specialist to service and maintain your car rather than an Audi Main Dealership. May I record my experiences of using an Audi Specialist Independent. I have owned 4 Audis in the past 20 years, all bought from new . An Audi A8, 2 Q8's and my present car, a 2026 S5 Avant. I am a fastidous owner and like to keep my cars in the very best condition. Not a fan at all of Audis....or any other main stream manufactures " long term servicing regimes ". Hence I generally have and have had a service and most imprortantly an oil change every 7 / 8000 miles. I have never used an Audi Main dealer for any services all 4 cars. The reasons are that I am fortunate to have near a superb Audi Independent Garage that I know and trust. Of course their servicing rates are a fraction of what Audi charge but more importantly to me , I truly believe that my cars are better looked and maintained to a higher standard than at the Audi garage. Also may I just add that the premise that by going down the Independent route, could affect the cars resale has not been the case with me. On my last 2 Q8's I did what most folk do and went on the WeBuyAnyCars website to find out a rough resale value . I then found a couple of Indendent dealers who specialised in more " higher end " pre owned cars. Both were pretty exacting on what cars they would actually put on their website and both were quite happy that the cars had been service their entire lives with an Independent. On both cars the important and deciding factor with the Dealers was that the Independent had a known reputation, used genuine Audi parts and was able to log on and record the services on the Audi Sevice regimes. And in fact, on both cars I was offered more than the WeBuyAnycars recommended price. So I think the main dealer stamp in the old service book was quite important once but not so much now. Just my 2 penneth.

Hello Peter, Wondering why you aren’t returning this under-warranty vehicle to the dealer, rather than getting paid-for 3rd party involvement -? Regards, Gareth.

The lock is called SFD and any car post 19 that is VAG has it, most garage scanners won't touch it except if they have a newer platform software VCDS or similar OBDEleven pro which is the cheapest option, what are they trying to repair. Steve.

Well I’ve been and gone and done it…. I’ve just taken delivery of a mint A2 1.4Tdi with 76,000 miles on in Ebony Black. She is beautiful with beige leather and all the toys inc a working pan-roof!! My question is - Do I get her chipped for an extra 25 bhp or leave her as standard 🤔🤔🤔

Managed to get the original pump working for long enough to test the pressure. It was 3 bar

An increase of 25bhp would make a big difference - that's a 33% increase after all. Best place to go for that is Vince at Stealth Racing.

Hi I think you need an auto electrician to sort this one out but I have a sneaking suspicion the comfort control modules have possibly been fried as they don't like water or being shorted to earth, my advice is tell the mechanic he has to pay for the fix. Steve.

Hi if its failed a sniff test its academic the gasket is leaking, I personally would do the same as the first garage if you take in to account that the head will most likely need a skim to correct any surface defects, then the valve seats would need to be lapped in, the timing chain is worth doing as even at 60k its probably stretched and the guides will be worn, factor in possible bore wear and you have the potential for a catastrophic wallet failure, from memory these engines were not good from new and if driven hard don't generally take to much action, you also mentioned improvements, one of them was not mapping was it? Steve.

Richard. Are you really referring to low coolant pressure warning? I suspect you mean low oil pressure. The 1.4 TFSI engines of that era were notorious for their skinny piston rings causing dramatic losses of oil which would explain the low compression readings and failed sniff test. The only realistic solution is installation of redesigned pistons and rings at great expense. Whether the coolant loss is related I can not say. Your first garage was right to suggest renewing belts and water pump at the same time because they would be due in 10000 miles and would need another engine strip down to install them, so it is cheaper to have the lot done at the same time. In its present condition I doubt that the car is worth more than £1000. Do you love it enough to spend several thousand pounds on it?

A good result.

Quick update , after jumping through a few hoops etc , its come back as being sorted under my Audi used car warranty. Total for quote £395. Replacement water reservoir tank and motor. As to why it needed a diagnostic check for a leaking tank ? obviously didn't have to pay for the check if its covered on Warranty. Booked in this Thursday , happy motoring.

Oil is cheaper than engines, or changing cars Ian! Good luck with everything. Regards, Gareth.

There’s an aftermarket upgrade to the MMI & maps you can get. Not sure if it dies anything with the DAB radio but you could ask: Satnavmapupdates.co.uk MMIupdates.com I used the 1st one to update my maps but don’t know if it did anything to the radio.

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So my 2013 1.4tfsi has been into 2 garages for coolant loss & random "Stop engine low pressure" light. First garage said head gasket & quoted £3,055 for the work, but they added w/pump & belt plus timing chain on a 60k engine. Second garage concurred but refused the job saying Tfsi engines were rubbish & couldn't guarantee it was head gasket alone! And fitting another engine would cost 3-5k! Third was online community who all say both are a joke, & a few mentioned the intake manifold cooler as possible reason? So sniff test done & failed, compression test & failed (none said what readings were or what cylinder(s) ) Now it's losing coolant rapidly, however there's no white smoke, oil is still clean & runs absolutely fine with no misfires. Car on a good day could fetch 5-6k due to improvements made over 4 years i've had it. Now stuck on what to do or go next? I live in Crewe & no particular VAG specialists nearby other than official garage.

My 65 plate A4 2.0tdi Avant currently with an Audi specialist awaiting a new AdBlue tank, pump and ECU at a cost north of 2K 🙄 This will be the second time this has happened, once at 65k back in 2019 and again now at 106k. love the car but certain that Audi know about this issue and are reluctant to acknowledge the fact. my dilemma is, do I keep the car once repaired or will other issues follow?