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I replaced the CCM in my '03 A6 C5 1.9TDI with one that had the identical part number a couple of months ago and it was completely plug and play. Your key fobs will need to be reprogrammed however, but it's a really quick and straightforward job if you have two. I posted a guide in the C5 forum that explains it step by step. Hope that helps you mate. Edit I've just noticed the CCM in your avant ends in an N and the saloon in a K, weirdly the one in my saloon is an N, go figure.

First of all I must thank you all for the imput into my Insurance woes. I have now received my new renewal quote from Admiral. It has come in a few pence short of £2k. Which I am more than happy about. So I go on another year driving my fabulous E-Tron GT. Tony

Thanks Robert, But you are assuming it was correctly serviced before you bought it at 2 years old and at 21k miles. In terms of seeking any contribution from Audi, then assumptions are simply meaningless. You will need to wander into an Audi dealer and request a print out copy of the on-line service history - and hope it was ‘serviced strictly to the book’. Now on to its servicing under your ownership, as was asked - could you now tell us about that, so we can better advise you?

Thank you. One day somebody will bless you for that information.

Hi I got a bit muddled, main failure is EPC. If you just have ESP it's a fault with the traction control and ABS. If it ESP then it could be a sensor at the wheels but you have both lights on the dash, it could be a faulty brake light switch on the pedal.

Hi all. Really sorry I forgot to post. This is how it went with Audi, Oldham. The technician told me that the diagnostic found no faults and that the issue was that I had deselected intelligent coasting in the MMI. He told me that he activated it again, drove up and down the motorway, and all is well. So…when I went to collect the car, and although I told him that the intelligent coasting mode had been switched off since new, he was adamant that this is what the issue was. Anyway, since being plugged in the diagnostic, and intelligent coasting off again, it’s back to normal !? I think a reset of the ‘brain’ of the car must have been done, but I wasn’t told that. in conclusion, when the electric charge is depleted, it shuts off the petrol engine into regen electric just as it should. The complete opposite to the issue I had, which was that the car never shut off the petrol engine, and instead decided to charge the battery, which resulted in sub 20 mpg for two weeks of driving. Again, sorry for this very late post and that I can’t be more helpful. Andrew

think its definitely the oil gauge as just a little tap on the screen in front of it makes it return to normal reading tho some days fine others all over the place. will remove and test the fuel level sender when i have time but think finding a replacement not going to be easy

It's about £1700 Gareth. A considerable sum to lose if I am understanding Riyss properly.

You don’t need a tester to inspect the condition of the cables within the flexible harness section Kieran.

Thanks Steve

You'll need a diagnostic check to see if any fault codes flag up. Could be an issue with the ballast

To add to Gareth's advice, on older audi models if the hazard switch fails or starts to fail it can cause the I dictators to play up. If that's the case the cure is a new hazard switch

Welcome Kieran and thanks for joining. I take it you have a multimeter and have checked to ensure a good earth on that side, and presumable an absence of 12v -? If so, it would be well worth checking the wiring within the flexible harness section twixt body and tailgate. A favourite location for fractured cables. Regards, Gareth.

Hello Colin, Much has already been said on here about VAG’s current recommendation of not renewing belts until c140K miles, with no age limit. You will see from a search that the forum generally does not hold with that schedule, and suggests sticking with their previous recommendation of change at c75K miles, or 5 years - whichever comes first. The logic will be outlined in the searched threads, but basically boils down to VAG are not in the business to sell dealer time in changing cam belts - but selling new vehicles. If a vehicle’s engine expires due to belt breakage, then they have an opportunity to sell a new vehicle. Worth a search and a read Colin. Please let us know what you decide to do. Regards, Gareth.

Can’t hear the video, but to be honest between road noice and background noise, these sort of videos rarely identify culprit. If you had new outer CV joint, that may have contributed, especially if drive shaft boot was torn and and CV joint was open to the elements and contaminated. if you’ve got a worn wheel bearing then you’ll hear constant reverberating sound, around about 40-50mph. You might be able to pinpoint if you jack up car, and hold the coil spring and get someone to rotate the wheel. Any friction on the bearing will transfer to the spring which you should feel. Straight forward if your spanner handy, although I hate generation 2 bearings which are the press in hub variety on VW Polos for example. If generation 3 wheel bearing, then they are held in place with triple square bolts. Useful to have air hammer as the bearing is usually welded in with oxide corrosion if an alloy strut. You’ll need a breaker bar, torque wrench, etc. Fit quality F.A.G. Bearings given labour involved.

Does that mean you were not given the service history by Audi when you purchased it?

Only it it is any good, and you won't know that unless you get it tested, in which case you might as well get the fitted battery tested. Let me emphasise that simple voltage readings from a multimeter will not tell you if the battery is in good condition. A battery can show over 12 volts and yet have internal faults that can interfere with the delicate electronics of the car causing a variety of seemingly unrelated symptoms, one of those symptoms being a lack of error codes on low quality OBD readers. Until you get the battery tested we can not eliminate it as the cause of the starting problem.

UPDATE!!! the frayed wire was changed completely and seems to have fixed the problem. thank you for everyones help 🙂

Evening everyone, Starter solenoid went so decided to change myself. If anyone is tempted to give this a go here are some tips. Make sure you have tools and axle stands or its a tough job. I couldn't get it out without taking the engine mount. Some good videos on YouTube. The hardest part is one of the Allen bolts from the top engine mount that is obscured by the exhaust. The other top one is accessible with lots of extensions and a Wobblies. Looking for a part number for the stretch bolts (x3 18m main bolts) Any help would be apreciated.

Hi The Bromley Motoring Pageant is on 27th July. It is down at The South of England Show Ground now. I used to show my Lotus there, so I had a E-Mail to from them for this year. I replied to tell them the Lotus was gone but I now have the Audi E Tron GT. Much to my surprise they want me to show it as the "Way to the Future". I will send you the pictures. Tony

Would it make sense to try and start it with jump leads? If it starts then you know starter is ok, and maybe the issue lies with the battery. In any case you will probably need to do this if you are planning to take it to a garage to get the battery tested.

I think it's clipped on. You might find it's cheaper to replace the whole airbag from a used one from eBay.

They're not interchangeable. You need to swap the failed part out for one that has the exact same part number

Mark you see the plastic rivets on the lower arm I had a problem removing them so I ended up replacing them ! £10 for 4 , Job took me about 2.5 to 3 hours

I didn’t need to do anything apart of removing the lower stock mount bolt and then use a bottle jack and a piece of tube over the bottle jack top to the stock top mount fitting bolt , using a pair of springs compresses to compress the spring evenly enough to pull out the rubber mount I’ve got to thank Spartacus for his write up . And mine s a Quattro too a

thats the only picture he sent me or i would have posted another!! thank you so so much all for your guys help, so so appreciative and will keep you all updated!!! 🙂

Thank you for the suggestion Gareth. I’ll have a look at the part website. I understand that now, thank you for your help. Dan

Thanks Dan, You could be right that there are indeed two thermostats. Worth checking LLL Parts website? ‘…. as simple as chuck a new one in to fix it..’ If you are asking me to guarantee that replacing the thermostat would fix the problem, then the answer is No. Like every other forum we can only make sensible suggestions. Regards, Gareth.

Hi all, Just posting here to say Hi. Between the wife and I we have a A1 (21 plate) and have just purchased an A3 (07 plate). Not a huge car nut, but am looking for a group of people who can help/advise me when/where needed. In return I can talk video games or digital forensics (mobile phones mainly, but have dabbled in computers and Vehicles). 🙂 Thanks, Ricky

Welcome to the forum Ricky you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂 Nice you've got a two car Audi family 🙂

Will do here's a couple of links for the 2 oil seals and the hall sender, the fibre washers I had and were m12 x 20m. Oil seal £2.51 https://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p25677/12x19x5mm-Nitrile-Rubber-Double-Lip-Rotary-Shaft-Oil-Seal-with-Garter-Spring-R23-/-TC/product_info.html 'O' ring £4.13 https://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/Seals-O-Ring-Seals-NITRILE-O-Rings/c19_4501_4705/index.html?selection=Nitrile+Rubber+O-Rings Hall sender £35 https://www.ignitioncarparts.co.uk/PartDetails.aspx?s_pc=PPU2007

A vacuum reservoir of the size shown would be hard to miss. If you don't see one perhaps it's because you don't have one. I didn't on mine.

Hello Phil, If not the spring pan itself, are you talking the straight link arm, or the curved one. Although I keep pushing this with no personal connection:- Have a look at Parts in Motion website. They are very precise in their descriptions , and I’ve got the impression the straight arm is handed - from not very good memory! If in doubt just give them a ring. I’ve used Febi brand to good avail. Please let us know how you get on Phil. Regards, Gareth.

Darn. I'll take another look online to see what more I can find 🙂

Hi MiguelP, I would state to the dealer that it must be rectified before your extended warranty expires. Mine must have been an electrical ‘glitch’ because the only thing Audi Oldham did was to plug it into the diagnostic. Hope you get it resolved. Regards, Andrew

Sorry, posted this and I've been driving to south of france over last few days with no Internet. Never thought to see if I'd had a reply.... its had an offer on Ebay for just over £200 can't remove from listing now as there's an offer on it. Cheers paul

Least yours is easy, my dsg has 2 drain plugs, strange I know.

Great Tony -very pleased for you. Back to your SP30, didn’t they offer you the option of attending a speed awareness course for around £90, rather than 3 points? Regards, Gareth.

The first picture shows the drain plug, I left the hex to show where it's located in ref to the filler plug in the 2nd picture

Finally got around to draining the gear box oil today. I was expecting it to be low as could see that the last owner had a new driveshaft fitted, but wasn't expecting there to only be 1 litre in there. Car was level and I filled it up using a large syringe 1.5 litres. There must have been some of the old oil left in the gearbox as I read that these take 1.8 litres. Will check it in a few days to make sure its still topped up.

almost got it sorted just cannot access 13 Auto Dist Reg in VCDS the controller is not responding followed these instructions all of it worked but cannot access STG 13 Coding applies to Audi A6 C8 STG 19 > Installation List > "69 - Trailer/Anhänger" - Activate STG 01 > Coding > Byte 5 > Bit 4 "Trailer installed" - Activate STG 09 > Coding > Byte 13 > Bit 4 "Hitch ECU,installed" Activate STG 13 > Coding > Byte 3 > Bit 3 Activate STG 17 > Coding > Byte 14 > Bit 5 "Trailer, YES" Activate STG 46 > Coding > Byte 14 > Bit 6 "Trailer control unit, 0=not installed / 1=installed" Activate STG 6D > Coding > Byte 01 > Bit 7 "Trailer Recognition installed" - Activate STG A5 > Coding > Byte 14 > Bit 1 "FW_AAG,installed" Activate

Hi Dan. No, you just said that you were unable to offer me cover. I know that the problem is that I am 81 years old driving a high powered car. Also unfortunately I picked up a speeding ticket last month which was most annoying. I was taking my son and his wife to Gatwick at 03.40 in the morning and set a camera off in Selsdon. It clocked me at 34 mph!!! and I got a £100 fine and 3 points for that. I know that the insurance is going to expensive but I have a car which is my pride and joy. I have had it 2 years now and have only done 6100 miles so it is not as if I am chasing up and down motorways with it. Tony

Looks like you've lost a wheel, somewhere on your drive! 😁

Is it old fashioned enough to have points? If so, check the gap and ensure the contact faces are unburnt. The condensers in such systems were also prone to failure.

Thanks! In fact I've spent 2.500 Euros so far to get a promising 2.5Tdi for another 200.000Km without any more issues than the regular oil change. Every year I've spent like 4k Euros on my old car, a Land Rover Discovery Sport 2.0 Ingenium. So... 2.5K Euros for some "peace" is quite good for me! 😁 Cheers

Hello there! Just to keep you informed about my, in fact, "mechanical restoration" of my 2.5 BDH. Two weeks ago I left my car to my mechanic's shop to do some things, like: Timing kit with water pump Front control arm kit Automatic transmission service kit Draining of all fluids and refilling with new ones Injector sealing rings In the end, the situation turned out like this: Having then replaced: Timing system Water pump Thermostat All pulleys and vibration dampers Crankshaft pulley Coolant reservoir Automatic transmission oil pan, filter, and oil Valve cover gaskets and sealing rings Alternator (only because the old one was FULL of engine oil) Glow plugs Complete front control arm kit including tie rod ends Air conditioning gas recharge Now I hope to be able to drive it again next week, as they will finally return it to me! In the meantime, some new parts came to my home, ready to be changed! Cheers! Federico

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@wanleg They are under your glovebox. The recirculation flap motor (2) is on the left, the fresh air flap motor (3) is at the back; you can see some arms connected to this one. In my case, at least, it was (2). After removing the cover under the glovebox, the motor is fastened with 3x torx screws. You will however need someone with VCDS to run the basic settings after fitting the new motor. Unfortunately, the distance from Hartlepool to me probably doesn't make it very economical for my help with this 🙂

Hi I struggled to find any useful info on the interweb on changing my daughter's Audi Q2 (2016 UK Model) offside headlight but worked it out in the end from snippets of info on different models. Once I worked it out though a little fiddly it only took a few minutes. It is impossible to access the headlight via the engine bay and I read about people taking drastic action and removing the whole assembly. YOU DO NOT NEED TO DO THAT! You can access it via the wheel arch. 1. Turn the steering wheel as far to the left as possible to expose a little clip-on hatch in the wheel arch. 2. Unclip the little hatch by just pulling it off. 3. It exposes a metal retaining clip that you pull downwards to release the back cover of the headlight assembly. 4. Now the fiddly bit - Reach up into the housing and locate the rear electrical connection block. You can wiggle it and see the bulb moving slightly through the front of the headlight assembly. Grab it as best you can and pull it firmly and the bulb will come out attached to the block. 5. You can then get manoeuvre the bulb out either through the bottom into the wheel arch or into the engine bay and put in the new one, remembering to wear gloves & not touch the bulb with bare hands as that will reduce the lifespan. I then turned on the lights to check all was ok! 6. Insert back into the housing - I thought it would be difficult but as long as you make sure it is the correct way round it clips back in easily. 7. Replace the cover and push back up the metal clip and then the hatch. Bobs ya uncle - Total time to do it 10 mins. Hope this helps.