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New Members - please read before posting ! Be civil Don’t post anything that a reasonable person would consider offensive, abusive, or hate speech. Avoid confrontational responses to post content that may be different to your own personal beliefs. Everyone has their own opinion on different matters and this provides for diversity, so please avoid an argument. Be polite It doesn't cost anything to have manners and would be appreciated by the community if you included 'please and thank you' as required in your posts. Keep it clean Don’t post anything obscene or sexually explicit. Respect each other Don’t harass or troll anyone, impersonate people, or expose their private information. Be respectful to Moderating Staff and other members at all times. No politics or religion Nothing starts a fight faster than politics or religion, so we don't allow those discussions. Keep personal information private All posts in the forums are easily found via search engines, so unless you're willing to expose your information to the world, please do not post telephone numbers, e-mail addresses etc in your posts. Have a little patience We are a club made up of members who have to work days or nights so can’t always reply straight away, someone will get back to you as soon as they can, so please be bear with us. Thread titles Be accurate with your topic by giving a brief sentence of the problem, hint or tip you would like to get across to other members. These are not concrete terms with precise definitions — avoid even the appearance of any of these things. If you’re unsure, ask yourself whether you'd go on TV and publicly say it on camera. This is a public forum, and search engines index these discussions. Keep the language, links, and images safe for family and friends. Follow Up Please find the time to follow up your post with a conclusion (such as; that worked, tried that but didn't work, etc) so contributing members can see whether their advice and suggestions worked in this instance. You may receive an email asking you to add a conclusion to your post, please find the time to return to your post and marked it as solved.

We've found this that other manufacturer forums get more footfall. I'm not sure why the Audi one isn't as positive. Myself and fellow admin team do our best to respond to posts but please bare in mind we are all volunteers who do work full time jobs (I do 74 hours a week!).

From all the admin team Just want to wish all our members a happy Easter 🐰🐣 hope you have a great day 😊

Hi All, As most don't follow up on posts & its been a few months since swapping my front discs, I thought I'd do the right thing & give an honest update. The relatively cheap Audura discs & pads from Europarts, that I fitted, are very performing very well with absolutely no issues, no brake judder & they stop the car exactly as they should. I would recommend this particular brand especially if one is on a budget.

Last month I had a rear caliper fitted to my 1.4tfsi. It has an EP brake. searching around I found prices to be all over the place. you can get them new (with motor) from eBay for about £90! prices go over £300 plus… and some vendors charge a surcharge for your old caluper. I settled on one for £177 inc vat. (No surcharge) from brakes international. I paid £80 labour to have it fitted at a local Audi specialist. i dint look to buy a caliper without motor .. I wasn’t aware this was an option !?? I guess if money is no object, you could replace both callipers at the same time but callipers do not necessarily require changing in pairs based on the off chance the one not replaced is going to fail any time soon.

Hi All, In the UK, all petrol and diesel come from only a handful of refineries; Immingham, Fawley, Grangemouth, and a couple others. All petrol stations (branded and supermarket) share the same 'base' fuel and add their own additives. The things that cost 'more' money are the additives they add (cost money to develop), and the octane / cetane content. I have Fuelpecker and now WEX, so generally always use ESSO. I also use Millers additive which supposedly adds Octane. I've used supermarket fuel before (and still do on occasion), and for some strange reason, Morrisons fuel has always caused my car to hesitate from time to time, so i do stay away from that if i can. If they are using the same 'base' fuel, it makes me wonder if Morrisons, or other supermarkets reduce what they add to the base fuel (octane/cetane/additives)? Thanks, Joe

Hi All just thought id share if it already hasn't been i lost power to my front doors no windows worked wing mirror stopped and central locking to drivers door, so after stripping own the dash under the wheel to get to the fuse box to check all wires and taking the door cards of and looking couldn't find any damaged wires it turns out that it was the ground wire to the module in the door that had dis connected somewhere in the rum so ive snipped it and joined a new wire to a bolt that has a ground in the door all working again now . just thought i would share in case someone else has this problem

i can see why it was 1100,it looks like a very professional repair in fairness.it wont happen him again hopefully! Greg

Hi Sean Wheel arrived and fits OK👍 It's a 19" but it has the same rolling radius as the 17" wheels My only slight concern is that it's resting on the battery cables, so as shown in the photos as a temporary fix I've cut up a few pieces of carpet which are now taking the weight. Will get some hard foam for a permanent fix (if the factory under wheel foam takes the weight I might source one of those) Note - you have to junk the tyre gunk and compressor container

Hi thank you, I remember about fifteen years ago going to my mates house for a Chinese takeaway, while we were waiting he took me down to his garage to show me the Ducati 998 he had bought, only just over a year old, when I remarked it stank of petrol he replied that he had noticed that but couldn't find the source, so me being fascinated started a small inspection, I soon found the cause due to the slight bubble in the paint on the tank around the stop !Removed! for the fuel which when piped released a small drop of fuel, he had drained the tank while the cold weather was here but the previous owner obviously hadn't and there was a patch of rot inside the tank around the stop !Removed! entry, new tank no paint or decals £1800 paint and decals +£500. so we drained the tank got rid of as much of the rust as possible and coated the area with an epoxy fuel tank repair, two months later he sold the Ducati and bought a BMW R80. Will be staying on the forum, STEVE.

Gareth, Westridge Garage is the main dealer for Skoda and Mitsubishi and they will be the same price as the others. The original Audi main dealer, where I bought my car brand new from, is Esplanade Garage. They dropped the Audi dealership a few years ago after an argument with Audi but they are still dealing with VW, Mercedes, and more, but I wouldn't go back there after the way they treated all of us loyal customers, apart from that, they will be 100% more expensive than anyone else. I'll make some enquiries and I'll post back if I get a positive result. Thanks Tony

I found the same issue under my 05 A4 avant quattro tfsi. Nearly fell over when I saw the extent of the rust above the rear spring supports (hidden under the felt wheel-arch cowling) and bad rust all along under sills from rear to front hidden above the plastic undertrays. NCT in Ireland is pretty thorough but none of this rust was spotted so the car flies through every year. The rust stops where the plastic undertray stops i.e. where the chassis is permanently exposed and can dry out properly. I'm getting the car welded. Plastic undertrays/felt cowlings free to take away - belly will remain naked from now on!

Hi, I have tried many different ideas to stop water getting into the boot cavity. So, I recently covered all the joints between the boot liner and the boot with duct tape and left it for several weeks. Great, no water in the cavity. During the recent weeks I have started removing sections of the tape to see when the leak started again. This process took a while to do. I have now only tape on the side of the boot and around the rear of the light cluster, see photos. We’ve had no rain of late so will remove one of these and see what happens when it rains again. So far, no water in the cavity. Anybody who tries this, and it works, or doesn’t please let me know. Regards Ian IMG_0830.HEIC IMG_0958.HEIC

My wife has a VW Golf 1.4 TSI 2016 and has been loosing coolant similar to your experience, which was the water pump. It was easy to identify the pooling on top of gearbox. Cost at VAG specialist using OEM part was £466 My A5 B9 looses a small amount of coolant (max to min in a few K miles) and has been pressure tested, but I can now see dried water/coolant at the outlet pipe underneath the reservoir. If I were you I'd get a second opinion before spending £950

Go to the menu, select systems - Servicing & checks - tire pressure monitoring system - store tire pressures - yes store now & the light will go from the dash. Obviously, make sure you check all the tires are inflated to the correct pressure first... & Pump them up to the correct pressure. The cold often causes TPMS issues as the density of warm air is less in comparison to cold air. Around 1/2 PSI per 10 degrees in temperature. Or you could have a puncture or slow puncture. So best to keep an eye on the pressures after you reset, but almost every time it has happened to me it's just the car crying about nothing. It is not unusual for tires to naturally lose 1.3 PSI per month as air gets through the rubber via permeation. Pressures will be in Manual or can be found online... Air can leak from the Tyre, valve, and rim if it's cracked or corroded around the seal. But I would place my bets on a slight pressure drop or a slow puncture. Best to check the Tread condition and for any visible damage to each tyre while you're at it also.

You're welcome and thanks Gareth, she certainly will be! She's a Christmas present that came early

Hi! Just purchased my 5th Audi a 21 plate A4 B9.5 Allroad!

Recently the car has been giving the impression of a flat battery when trying to start. It would turnover a couple of times but very very slowly. Turning the ignition off and then on again and the car would turn over slowly and then speed up and start but this may take a few attempts. It gave all the impressions of a poor starter motor. But having fitted one on a previous Q7 I know this is a 4 hour job and even with a decent discount is still over £200 for the unit. So decided to ring a local auto electrician that could hopefully diagnose exactly the part that needed replacing. (Vagcom showed nothing amiss by the way). He turned up and checked the car over and said that the cars alternator was charging the battery at around 13.6v. This is a indication of a poor earth and fitted another earth cable from the earth point under the bonnet used for jump starting to the engine manifold. Said he’s fitted loads as it’s a well known problem within VAG that the earths corrode over time and need cleaning. The car now charges at just over 14v and starts better than it ever did less than 2 seconds from turning the key. Turns over faster than my mates 2011 and 2014 Q7’s. Cost £10 for the earth cable and £40 for callout Including 1 hours labour. Hope this is helpful to anybody with a similar problem.

After four years since posing his question I doubt Daniel is reading this forum any more.

Hi Folks, Well last Friday I went and test drove the Audi A4 2.0 Sport 35. Although the car is a 2019 model it has done less than 6K miles and it looked brand new. Not only that, it has all the features of my 2012 S Line and more to boot. A4s came a long way over those seven years. The Audi dealer allowed me to go off with the car and I have to say it drove really well. It may only have 150 bhp but I personally could not tell the difference from my 1.8T with 170 bhp. No doubt my car may have lost a few horses over 11 years and possibly the new A4 is lighter etc. So @Stevey Y, you are right - no remap required (thank you). Anyway, to cut a long story short I bought the car. I would have preferred an S Line variant but this was simply too good a car to slip by. So sadly my faithful servant Max (1.8T) will no doubt heading off to a car auction. Good bye old friend and I just hope Max finds a kind owner. Many thanks Paddy UK

So after multiple lights and it being scanned etc all showing different faults it turns out it was a sensor on the back left passenger abs sensor that was faulty hence setting start stop / passenger air bag /abs / audi auto lights and many more lights off so touch wood this has resolved the issue as of now no lights on and back to normal just £165 quid lighter

I know all about the stealers and their tricks which is why I never take my cars to them but this is absolutely shocking, £20 for the filter and about 5 mins to change, luckily I do all my own work so the car will be looked after properly now and hopefully will last 170k as well. Jordan

Just want to wish all you dads and soon to be dads a happy father's Day 🙂

Hi pictures, price, service history, milage, all the prior might raise some interest. Steve.

Yea I'm all ok. Brake fluid is definitely less than 2 years old. You know me Trevor I'm hot on maintenance. Especially with the nature of the work I do. It was scary to say the least. But could have been worse

Hi stay clear of Audi/Quickfit any local independent should be more than capable. Steve.

Hi Gareth I appreciate your sentiment but realistically I doubt it will make a difference to more than a minority as most of these one post wonders can't even be bothered to look through the legions of post on this wonderful site to see if there is already an answer to their question, NO its far easier just to wait for some poor soul to to spoon feed the answer to them, I find this situation intolerable and on a personal level endorses my opinion that charging a small joining fee would eradicate the free loaders and any funds gathered from serious users would help with the costs of this forum, I have joined a few forums in my time and all required a subscription with the exception of some Ford forums, over the last couple of years the formulae for this situation has become blindingly apparent these people buy these cars in the blind belief that the Audi never goes wrong, someone told them that and its what they wanted to hear, most of the members on here all know that statement to be far from the truth, thats why they are here and after their own problems are solved actively engage in trying to help others, I have noticed lately that a couple of new members have posted the problem and the solution to that problem that they have worked out for themselves, we could definitely do with more members with that mind set. Steve.

Hi Sean, I ended up finding the LUK 0B2105266T flywheel on ebay for £300 brand new. The garage removed the old clutch and said it was a Sachs after all… but they put the LUK flywheel in with LUK clutch plate kit clutch has been in nearly 12 months or so and all is well! Had timing belt and water pump done at the same time. I did have a bit of trouble after as the garage said they nudged an EGT sensor when removing the clutch assembly. Car ended up going into limp mode with the coil light and DPF warning coming on. New sensor sorted that.

Hello Joel, Can I say it as I see it? You are trying to convince yourself that all maybe (in caps) alright, without evidence that it is. In reality, everything you now say are assumptions, and we all know what that word can be broken down to. The car hasn’t really had the best of servicing with the last owner, but only to the bare minimum requirement. Extended warranty?? Yes of course you can pay c£1,500 over 3 years for a warranty - with you paying the first £250 of each and every claim - and locked in to paying Audi servicing charges?? A warranty maybe a handy backstop to have, but every claim comes with hassle and the inevitable ‘it’s wear and take and not covered’. Again, saying it as I see it, I wouldn’t be surprised if you convince yourself to buy it. Please bare in mind that you will hopefully get other opinions on here. Kind regards, Gareth. Gareth.

Hello Jason, I wonder if you would like to ‘dilute’ your claim that the best fuel to use is Shell, by prefixing it with something like ‘In my opinion’, since members follow advice based on the principle of what is written is indeed fact. It would be surprising to read that Shell would openly claim that their brand of fuel is the ‘Best’. Perhaps you would consider editing this post accordingly, or on the basis of reasonable claim, I can edit the post if you would prefer. Kind regards, Gareth.

Its amazing how things can happen, was out in the driveway last night and a guy from the top of my street commented how nice my sons A3 looked. He mentioned his son had a 2020 A3 but it got wrote off and he got another car on the insurance. I mentioned I needed a spare wheel and he quickly got on his phone rung his son up and found out he had a 18" Audi spacesaver (125/70/18) in his shed. I bought it from him for £30 , also bought a 2.5T Jack / toolkit from Amazon and am awaiting 5 wheel bolts for the spacesaver from GSF cars. The best thing is the subwoofer fits perfectly inside the spacesaver wheel. My son is a happy chappie !!!

All done now really happy but now thinking of renewing warranty in August using Motor Easy as they deal with consequential damage which many companies don’t any thoughts on this company I believe they used to be Warranties Direct

Hi its probably a built in function as most oils only give maximum protection when at optimum temp, some of the new Bentlys, Alfa Romeos and Feraris have stickers in the car telling you to warm the engine at idle for at least ten mins before driving, I would get that drive system light checked its yellow so not urgent but the gearbox has nothing to do with the engine temp, in saying that the oldest saying in the car world is NEVER REV A COLD ENGINE, thats because of the damage it causes to internal revolving surfaces which have yet to heat up to operating tollerences, cold oil at high rpm is as bad as no oil only in reverse, I found that out a few years ago in the eighties when at massive cost I built a go faster Mini engine, billet steel crank lightened con rods, super Hepolite pistons the works, my only downfall was jacking the oil pressure relief valve so it ran at 95psi when warm, two months later I had big end knock where the oil cold ran at over 100psi and had washed the coating off of the end shells, moral of the story most cars are quite happy with oil pressure of around 40psi as long as the oil temp is at optimum. Steve.

Hi you should never put a kink in any part of the washer pipe as this will cause all sorts of problems the pipes are routed with gentle bends and you will never lose pressure because both circuits from the pump have anti drain-back valves so when the pump is not being used the valves shut to maintain the pressure, example, last summer one of my cab colleagues could only get his washers to work at the front with the bonnet up, turns out he had replaced all the feed tubes with silicone hoses but forgotten to do each section against the old pipe so the one that went to the tank was about 10mm to short and kinked when he closed the bonnet, thats how critical it is.

Just a update it’s finally running like a dream again ended up being the ecu not sure why garage’s can’t fix problems these days but if your car has this problem before spending thousands replacing all the parts get the ecu checked out.

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂 if it's from a dealer it's their responsibility to make sure these issues are fully rectified before you collect the vehicle

Many thanks indeed Greg, and welcome to the forum, and your kind comments are very much appreciated - it does mean a lot. Your car really does look to be a fine example. Just keep in touch if you think there is anything else we can help with. Kind regards, Gareth.

Welcome Bob, Strange one that! When you say ‘when the car warms up…’. Could you try a little experiment ( if not already tried). Start the car as normal, but do not attempt to operate the flashers. Do not move the car, but leave it idle until the cabin temperature reaches a sensible level - even though the outside temperature is still low. Once the cabin is reasonably warm, try the flashers, and report back. If they still don’t work, then road test the car and see if they start working at less distance covered, than they did when the car was moved from cold. Kind regards, Gareth.

Youngster Kev! Bless you. I too hope 2024 is kind to you, and although I’m grateful for 2023, it’s taken its opportunity to be not as good as it could have been, but hey, I’m old and passed my sell by date. Still….onward and upward. We all have to take what 2024 brings, but let’s hope it will be kinder. I feel it will be. You take care Kev. Kind regards, Gareth.

Id recommend a diagnostic check to see if any fault codes flag up. I'm wondering if your battery is failing if it's old as a failing battery can throw up unusual electrical gremlins.

If your garage is only repeating the pressure test it did a few weeks earlier, and which failed to reveal a leak, it seems it has run out of ideas. Time to take the car elsewhere. Did you or the garage investigate the possibility of an air lock that I mentioned three weeks ago?

Hi I think you answered your Question in the last sentence which equates to not a lot, all these engines were tested to destruction and when they break they take them to pieces to find out what caused the failure, they strengthen the offending part and up the torque/ BHP slightly, if it works well they just keep upping the power to way past the intended production run power, then whatever the engine has achieved up to 45% above the production Torque/BHP if it runs ok they reduce that figure by 45% to the production run power, thats your reliability factor, if you bear this in mind with the age of your car you are just putting more strain on an old engine thats made it this far with no real issues/wear and I bet if it all goes pear shaped and bits start failing he wont want to know unless it involves more money. Steve.

Hi I have never bought a refurbished injector off eBay my first port of call is always United Diesels in the U.K, not only do they have a phone number but you always get a ton of good advice and any refurbished items always arrive in airtight packaging and look brand new you also get any deposit back in record time, most eBay ratings are based on friend and family reviews, the refurbishment of Piezo injectors like I think yours are requires a very special knowledge and equipment, Steve.

Many thanks for the suggestions chaps, turned out I had stuffed up the timing by a few teeth 😱 Stripped it all down again and retraced my steps, timed it all correctly and she started first time. Perhaps the cam sensors prevented her from firing to protect the engine (thank goodness) running sweeter than ever now. cheers Sam

I found it extremely difficult to find the location of this fuse, the closest I got was in drivers footwell, but where? Anyway, today I found it and thought I should post this video just in case anyone else has the same issue. I live in Canada and forgetting to turn the rear wiper off at night can cause that fuse to blow in the morning when the wiper is frozen to the windshield from the previous day. Q7Rwmf.mov

Update, I've just inspected & found the V belt to have split in half & snapped. It looked to be in pretty bad shape. Its been squealing a bit recently & the AC was regassed two weeks prior & has been on most of the time putting more strain on an already old & 'past it' V belt. I'll get a new one fitted & report my findings back.

Yes I did Gareth after checking that its was a 2012 Facelift and thus no engine issues but thanks for the warning. So far it is great except for fuel consumption where I am getting high 20s mpg. Alas I have been spoilt by my family Skoda Karoq which gives is mid 40s!

Hi Etch and all. I've just signed up as this was one of the many (prob 200+) threads I read on the internet regarding similar issues i.e TPMS, ABS, Spoiler, Park Brake, Stop Start errors etc. I've been having this issue with my A7 for a couple of weeks now. and after spending almost £400 replacing abs wheel sensors, suspect coolant valves and testing with a new battery...it turns out it was actually the central gateway module under the rear seat or the wiring loom leading up to the gateway that's faulty/shorting. I saw your post re your kids movement causing the glitches and low and behold when I applied hand pressure to the seat and carpet around the area of the module my dash lit up like a xmas tree. worse my instrument panel and mmi was going crazy too and rebooting whilst driving. Anyway I removed the rear bench and disconnected/reconnected the module and so far I have driven 20 miles with no issue. Prior to this I couldn't drive 10m before the car started pinging like mad. VCDS scans weren't really helpful either as they showed intermittent loss of communication/missing messages faults in basically every module. So nothing clear. I hope this helps someone to at least identify the issue. if the module is indeed faulty, due to the programming protection it will require an expensive trip to the dealership to replace and program.

Hello Fakher, I think it’s time for you to do your homework. LUK is a prime brand, so I would go with that. There are cheaper alternatives, but I wouldn’t fit them. LUK should do a kit which will include the release bearing/ concentric slave cylinder - same thing. Suggest you search EBay and/or other factors such as Car Parts in Motion - there are more. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hi All, I got in contact with Schaefer/LUK and they were no help, wouldn’t give any details… I was curious to see if their aftermarket 0B2105266S equivalent would be a fit, but they were adamant it wasn’t and wouldn’t be under warranty if fitted… they said they don’t manufacture a 0B2105266T for the aftermarket I have asked Vaico for their specs on the flywheel but am yet to hear back. Btw this isn’t an option for their flywheel as it’s around £2k… when I can get the VAG for less…just hoping for some specs to compare to. I haven’t had the flywheel out yet, as it’s not a job i could do personally.. however I would feel confident comparing two against each other if I had them in hand I have just been taking it steady with the car, the slip is occasionally happening in 2nd now so not much time left… there is no rattling or worrying noises… just the slipping and odd judder from 1st gear which can be common. An option I’ve been toying with is buying the VAG flywheel and the 0B2105266S equivalent and comparing when the flywheel is out with the mechanic… would be good to shed some light on it as there isn’t much online. just luck of the draw with this model/time of manufacture by the looks of it! May have to bite the bullet, but I’m not giving up yet 🙂 l will keep you posted! Alex