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    A3 1.9 TDI 2008
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ShahAli's Achievements


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  1. So with my own self made adapter tool took off the throttle thing, then managed to get the EGR valve off. took a bit of time loosening it but wd40 did the trick along side gentle nudging for 10 mins! Will clean the throttle valve today and install the new EGR valve and also sensor. Wont be able to ADAPT any of those but hoping car will start and run and can adapt later. Lots of reading on net some suggest car self adapts etc. The EGR valve compared to the new one was about 85% blocked. Just had a pencil hole gap in it. Hoping this is the issue. I was disappointed at the mechanic. Wont post details but his review was good and also 10 mins drive from me. Does Clutches and other repairs so i have no doubt he is good and knows his stuff but just not hungry enough for the job.
  2. Hi Stevey and Clifford, Many thanks for your response. I have found away to get the 3rd nut off with a small extension and a spanner to twist the extension to unscrew the 3rd EGR valve. Ideally i'd pay the mobile mechanic but this chap has let me down twice. I waited all day today and only when i chase him he says sorry and may be next time. So as i have the part and know how to de-assemble with the bit i created, i'll do that over the weekend. My questions is, if i replace the EGR valve(i think i can reset this via my simple bluetooth OBD with Torque pro) and also the Exhaust pressure sensor, then i don't have access to the VAGCOM/CAN link until a few weeks later. Is it ok to "drive" the car and can i "ADAPT" the sensor later when i have the cables and software? I've read a few people who in some cases inserted the sensor the wrong way round and were driving it for a while with funny VCDS readings (Negative values), but were able to drive the car. My wife say's i won't get answer's here as normal people just leave it to the mechanic. I suspect she may be right but you can learn a lot from youtube and forums!
  3. So, needed some help. I have a 2008 A3 1.9 tdi Manual - Services regular, camblet, Clutch, master slave cylinder etc all replaced in time. Do long drives and when the DPF light comes, when engine is hot i drive 4th gear 50MPH with revs around 2500 and this then clears it after 10 mins or so. over 2 weeks ago i noticed when driving occasionally i can feel a rumble. Lasts a second so i thought i was imagining it. 2 weeks ago as i was driving up a hill and i noticed that the car was not climbing so i went into lower gear and felt that was not helping so called RAC and lifted back home. SYMPTOMS: Car comes on, engine comes on but the revs are limited. When i go into gear and try to go faster than 5mph the engine cuts out. Same in reverse as well. As soon as i increase the throttle the engine cuts out. When i don't engage the car i can rev it but i think it limits hte rev to around 2000 or so. RAC did diagnostics and came with 2 faults: 1) P0401 - EGR flow insufficient 2) P0473 - Exhaust Pressure Sensor High My local mechanic is fully booked and i'd need to tow it. I called a "reliable" and rated mechanic and have already purchased the parts from Germany ( EGR Valve and the EP sensor) .. the chap was supposed to come today having told him what i think might be going on.. but has let me down. I've seen videos and basically the job is not difficult (besides one screw) - below is the actual job - Its a gold but same as my audi in terms of the part. My Question: 1) Do you guys think it will solve the problem and does what i say happened fit with the fault. 2) I don't have a VAGCOM - If i were to replace then would i need to just "ADAPT" the Sensor. What would happen if i did not adapt the sensor right away but say in a few weeks time having driven it. I say this because the VAGCOM and VCSD is about £250 or so, so would have to purchase this at a later date. 3) I thought in limp mode you can drive the care but not fast, mine seems to cut out completely. does that suggest something else? Many thanks guys, Sorry to ask for help, but i am sure a lot more people would know more than me here. w
  4. well.. that was another story... none of the people told me this BUT in checking and trying to falsely fix the blower motor i tripped the airbag device. This has to be reset via code/OBD/VAGcom. i don't have one so may have to pay. What people should told us all is how to change/fix/inspect the blower motor without tripping the airbag. There is away . i cannot recall, i think it may be by deactivating it OR not turning the ignition on at some point, i have come across it but cannot recall what it was i should have done prior. Don't get me wrong, fixing the X relay and finding the solution took best part of a month and multiple searches- Until then i ordered new motor, kept on checking fuses, kept on checking wiring and also voltage across multiple wires! . i found out by accident by looking at an Australian guy with similar problem on his Skoda octavia..! I thought i had 2 issues (blower and water pump) but actually all is find but relay dead!
  5. Fixed it in the end. If anyone has this issue: 1) Blower motor nor working AND Front windscreen washer not working, then the issue is the X (CROSS) RELAY number 86. This is a cube like relay that is found UNDER the right side of the steering dashboard. You need to take the dashboard off and then you will see 2 Cross Relays labelled 86. swap them over and your blower and washer will work. Genuine replacements are about £15 but secondhand ones are like £7. #
  6. Hi Guys, my blower motor is not working. I recall a few weeks ago i turned the switch on and after 3-4 mins it started to work. Strange i thought.. now for the last week not working at all. WHAT I HAVE DONE: I checked all the fuses and they seem ok (The one on the right side of the steering) I assumed probably blower motor or loose connection, so purchased a new one with same fitment from eurocarpats with 30% discount so around £75. I took the glove compartment apart and the 2 sockets connected to it and also the 2 wire plug going to the motor. Installed new motor and not working. I then checked t he 12v supply with the fan on full and no supply going to the motor. When i switch the fan switch on i think ican hear the relay going clinck and when i turn off it clicks as well. So now i am stuck. Any ideas..? ALSO now the Airbag light is permanently on. not sure what could have triggered that as i did plug both the cabled into the glove compartment. Lastly washer pump not working. i am thinking to repalce that and hope all of this is not related. Any thoughts or ideas chaps? Thanks
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