Stevey Y

Thanks Gareth did not spot that one the second thread is probably out of impatience, usual M.O. Steve.

Hi milage, it may well get you a considered opinion if you stated the actual milage as peoples perception of high milage is a pretty broad church, some consider 120k + as unacceptable it all hinges on service history etc. Steve.

Hi halogen lights are cheaper until you get in to the coding and wiring changes, you might be better served buying second hand apart from that the majority of people want xenons because the light output is far superior, you may well spend a lot of money to fit halogen lamps only to be disappointed when you can't see as well. Steve.

Hi I hope you bought the three seals as well, radial shaft seal that goes in the slave cylinder, the driveshaft seal for the diff side, you have to take the diff cover off to get at it, then we have the crankshaft seal behind the flywheel and ring gear if thats leaking thats a whole new level, no point in dodging it as it just gets worse and coats the friction plate in engine oil, bit of advice put a bit of plastic over the brake fluid reservoir before !Removed! the lid back on and wrap the end of the pipe in clingfilm when you remove it from the slave cylinder, finally you have to put a bungee on the clutch pedal to stop it falling on the floor, this also stops fluid loss via the master cylinder which iff allowed to travel to the end of the cylinder body will ruin the piston seal so you will need a new one of those as well, I hope you have a four poster to use as the gearbox weighs a ton it took three of us to lift it off of the gearbox jack. Steve.

Hi Wayne I don't think its the relay it is most likely the motor, because they are a cr@p design and fail frequently over the 190k I had the car I went through three rear motors all with different symptoms of failure, constant running, parking of wiper arm in multiple positions, no wiper at all, this is due to water ingress in to the control box PCB, never changed the relay ever, but if you use reverse logic if it works why is the relay at fault, most common symptoms of relay failure are, intermittent function or no function at all. Steve.

Hi take the screw out of the other side most motor motor parts stores will be able to match it. Steve.

Hi its just a standard screw fitted to any Audi, is all it does is keep the disc in place so if the pad off position is loose the disc can't move round and block the bolt holes. Steve.

Hi they are always a pain as the water from the washer rots everything try a good soak in plusgas then use a deep socket, other than that its a new motor. Steve

Hi probably something failed in the dash pod, only way round is whip it out and send it off for repair.

Hi I think it will be a case of recoding the new air bags in the new seats from experience a lot of times the airbag control module wont recognise the new bags a way of testing this is to plug the old seats in again and see if the light goes out, I have in the past had to strip seats and put in the old units in the new seats, the resistors wont work because the air bags in the new seats have not gone and are not replying the correct code back to the module, it may well have been better to have just had the worn patches repaired on the old seats. Steve.

Hi may well be a dash pod resistor problem the only way to check is perform a diagnostic scan and see if it throws a code, if it is the dash pod you will have to send it away for testing, guessing on the age of the vehicle it may be something as simple as a dry solder joint. Steve.

Hi have changed the battery?, other than that you have a bad pulse wire in the rubber boot between the door and the body. Steve.

Hi for your ignition controlled wire find a fuse thats 10 amps or under the 5 amp auxiliary heater fuse is a good one if its fitted, don't use any 10 amp fuse that guard anything like wipers or electric steering and make sure the piggy back spur has the camera fuse, two and a half amp in the top position, trying to find a permanent live is a nightmare so you may have to resort to running a permanent live from the battery with a fused link and routing it through one of the rubber loom boots on the bulkhead to get the wire into the cabin. Steve

Hi its the sealing ring, most likely they did not change it with the unit problem being that you have to buy the seal separately and they are quite expensive, its either the seal or they have damaged the locking ring that holds the pump in when they re tightened it, the third hole looks like a breather, easiest way to check is get a small length of wire and push it into the hole and see if it bottoms out, if it does its the seal. Steve.

Hi I would definitely get some body in that line of work to look at it and tell you realtime what's been done, never been a fan of mapping as half the clowns out there have no idea what they are doing or what the long term implications of their work is, are you still getting codes? Steve.