Stevey Y

Hi Cliff they are on all later cars as the sensor lets the ECU know the temp of the returning fuel from the rail, this is because part of the returning fuel is used to supplement the level in the filter housing when the car is under heavy load, most of the fault codes that are thrown up by this sensor are either due to bad wiring or most likely air bubbles in the return where it can't read warm air. Steve.

Hi the mechatronic units normally suffer valve failure due to bad oil or as you said PCB failure, trouble is Audi tried to be to clever with the design and I don't think they ever sought the advice of ZF, lets face it they are the fount of all knowledge regarding automatic/ manual gearboxes and have produced most of the bullit proof boxes over the last ninety years but the manufacturers don't want to pay the design royalties, made me smile when you said about the reliability of the BMW units, where do you think they got their designs, instead we are left with the Ford power shift and multiple others that consistently fail due to inherent design flaws, PS Billericay boy myself and have many memories of walking through Hadleigh to get home because no taxi would take us out of area at that time of night, the reading will throw up the problems, as a rule that type of box needs a service every 30k or two years whichever comes first, with regard to purchasing VCDS you might as well buy OBDEleven it does the same as VCDS but at a fraction of the price and works on a credits system where as if you buy VCDS its all free but is around £300 for the basic, I just bought OBDEleven Pro that does all Audi,VW, Bently ,Porsche and host of others with a hundred credits for £100. Steve.

Hi its usually on the fuel return pipe from the fuel rail. Steve.

Hi it could well have been the mechatronics unit and you have said you have tried the reset which only works on a temporary basis, but at no point have you mentioned getting the vehicle scanned preferably with VCDS, you can also do a gearbox reset with the same system, I have heard a lot of this with well serviced cars but most people forget about gearbox services every 30k which are critical to the longevity of this type of box. Steve.

Hi could well be the breather on the rocker cover is becoming blocked so the gas will take the path of least resistance, dipstick/oil filler cap. Steve.

Hi Colin, if she is anything like my missus the nagging is off the Richter scale, please if possible post some pics, I imagine from your first post it could be something as simple as a bad earth. Steve.

Hi the milage is not so much of a worry as they do that with ease provided they have been serviced regularly, ask for any service history the main ones being clutch and timing belt changes as if there is no evidence at that milage they could be looming heavy expenses especially if the car is auto, having said that the best way is to have a diagnostic read out before purchase this will unearth any underlying problems. Steve.

Hi on the contrary, thank you for posting your resolution as it gives the other people who read this a chance, as so many people just fix the problem and never post the resolution, its like watching a really good film and the TV packs up fifteen mins from the end, I wasn't quite sure about the coding at first and then dredged my memory about the electrical shunt which I was told about a long time ago, it performs the way a can bus does by fooling the control module in to thinking its the original, this is also done on most aftermarket alternators to get round the coding drama. Regards Steve.

Hi is that really the best you can do, another YouTube video, I wouldn't mind but its not even the same suspension set up the video demonstrates Mcpherson strut suspension with a bearing turret top mount, Not static shock absorber with multilink pivotal hub steering, I am now convinced you are not even close to informed about what you are quoting and don't understand the dynamics of the suspension type on the posters vehicle.

Hi I doubt it will affect the car as the only reason the car will stop is if the ECU has been told there is no more adblue and the ECU shuts down the ignition, all the old pony about Adblue failure burning up the pistons is simply not true, how many owners are floating around out there with the adblue deleted years ago the whole system is gauged towards an emissions enforcement strategy. Steve.

Well I hate to point out that you would have to have the vehicle on a four poster ramp with the wheel off and a large pry bar to check if the bushes have gone soft or drop link travel, and if you could please explain why the topmount on this model fails, I await your empirical deliberations.

Hi David, you will often find the spare key battery is in a worse state than the one you use as the batteries run down quickly when not used, if you change the batteries in both fobs and still have the same problem the chances are that the pick up ring that circles the key port is intermittently not getting the right information from the transducer in the key fob. Steve.

Hi go find a decent independent if not covered by warranty usually around a grand. Steve.

Hi you wont get rid of this one easily its either the sensor heading east or my humble guess it needs a software update. Steve.

Hi try changing the key fob battery that is often the cause. Steve.

Hi Colin it would be better to establish if these are original headlights or retrofit/aftermarket, the way to do this is inspect the top of the units with the bonnet up, if they are factory there will be a sticker on top with the part code if thats present it may well be as simple as a wiring fault, please post some pictures that would be a great help. Steve.

Even if you are trying to fit an H4 bulb in to an H7 mounting, the mountings are completely different and so are the connections, one uses twin prong connections and the other uses try prong connections, while you are there why not think of something else he can buy as an ornament.

Hi from your description I would guess its either lower arm rear bush or a drop link or anti roll bar bushes. Steve.

Hi Gareth, I doubt you will get an answer, this will disappear into cyberspace he obviously dislikes having to explain his statements or expanding on them, he unlike us mere mortals manages to see things in the posts we don't, shame we only see the obvious in the information supplied. Steve.

Hi sounds like you have done all the basics, well done, please report the end result as it makes good reading for anyone with the same problem in the future. Steve.

Your ignorance of braking systems is breathtaking, no one uses copper grease on the backs of brake pads as they come with a thermo rubber coating on the back, this attaches itself to the piston, especially on rear callipers and the other slave side of the calliper, provided both sides are clean when assembled the coating heats and becomes soft allowing both sides to embed slightly, so when the whole thing cools after first use the pads become semi attached to their mating surface points, this means when the piston retracts both pads will follow the mating surfaces back to their protocol positions, [START], furthermore it also stops brake squeal. You seem to have a surfeit of Americanisms which I believe may be a product of to much YouTube/Google, in thirty odd years with cars we have always called them DISCS.

Thanks. Hi you can just separate the two with the original connection left plugged in I have always done this in the past as some of the cheaper units have had problems with the electronics in the drive motor, I have been thinking very hard on this and have another possible solution, when you said the calliper was binding did you mean that the wheel resists being turned by hand with the car jacked up and no parking brake?, if so check the following before condemning the calliper, there are slider pins on the top and bottom of the unit these are in a rubber boot assembly, retract the the EPB and take the securing bolts out, with the calliper clear test the movement of the pins in the rubber boots there should be very little resistance to you pulling them in and out, if there is chances are the pins are dry or worn and will hold one side of the pad set on normally the piston side, repair kits are plentiful and cheap, the other consideration is how long have the old pads been in situ as I have found through experience that on cars that only do average milage over years the pad location runners tend to corrode to the carrier so the piston side wears faster as the crud on the outer runners prevent the outer pad from pulling in as much so its all on the piston side, so worth stripping and cleaning as it may well cure your problem without the need for a new calliper, brake fluid change highly recommended. Steve.

Hi I don't know who gave you that information but its not correct as the filter is on the drivers side at the back of the car, aluminium casing with at least three rubber hoses attached. Steve.

Hi Mark what you have posted is a picture of the drive motor code but I expect Jason already knew that but forgot to mention it, if your new calipers have the drive motor attached they should be plug in and play as most aftermarket rigs like this are fitted with an electrical shunt, you could always use the callipers without the motors if yours are working ok and just bolt your motors to the new caliper these units tend to be a lot cheaper.

Hi most motor factors sell the stuff but I have found the Ford sump sealant is the best, its a bit more money but when it never leaks again, thats where the extra money went. Steve.