Stevey Y

Hi never mind the live data for the injectors, if the car has done that sort of milage the most likely candidates are, MAP, MAF sensors the MAF very rarely throws a code even when knackered, most important are the EGT sensors as if they are bad they will cause the ecu to massively overfuel the engine as a bad EGT will sometimes give minus readings so the ECU thinks its way to cold in there so it humps in another bucket of diesel, hence the smoke, also check your soot loadings if the calculated is way higher than the measured one or all of the above will be your problem. Steve.

Hi from my perspective you would be better off with the original D2s the service life for LED units aftermarket is probably less than the HID because %99 of them are Chinese and for some peculiar reason have cooling fans attached to them, the D2s works straight out of the box, LEDs do create more heat and annihilate the beam pattern, So if you want a cheeky upgrade go for 5000-5500 kelvin D2s no extra heat just a whiter light, try Vally Lighting on eBay, I used their D5s units, fair price and only got a bit dim after two years and 100,000 miles [cab working nights]. Steve.

Unfortunately this is not a problem that will be solved without a diagnostic scan. Steve.

Hi its likely the supply pipes have collapsed but I would try to listen to hear if the pump is buzzing when you activate the washer system if it isn't its probably the main pump blocked or knackered. Steve.

Hi I believe you have two of these on your vehicle, problem is on that type of code reader it wont distinguish between sensor one and sensor two, if you can find someone with VCDS or similar that may well enlighten you. Steve.

Hi I think someone has been having a play and got into the green menu, engineers only, if you go randomly pressing buttons in that you will fry the MMI and no it wont need an update as the final updates available would have been four years from the build date. Steve.

Hi I think you will find its number one cylinder if all cam pulleys are lined up with their marks same as when changing the belt but use the old rule of check twice do once. Steve.

Hi well done, most early 90s Porsches had VW Scirocco stalks on the wheel. Steve.

Hi any vehicle of that age will smoke until it gets up to temp, its pre DPF probably and has starship milage on it and possibly had a bad remap. Steve

Hi dont bother with the tools as they change them from year to year and Audi want a fortune to do the job, after all they have exclusive access to the whole range, I bought three tools to change the seal on my A6 none fitted and in the end my mechanic lost the plot with it and timed the engine up to TDC cylinder one, stuck a drill bit through the cam pulleys to lock it in and with an appropriate amount of silicon grease on the crank end tapped the new seal in to place with a toffee hammer, you must ensure that all the surfaces are clean before you do this paying extra attention to the the gasket seal film you have to apply as the crank seal carrier forms part of the mating surface of the sump pan, you can't get the seal in the wrong place as there are two witness marks one on the reluctor ring on the new seal and one on the engine casing, the crank position sensor sits just to the left of the reluctor. Steve.

Hi Hi the dreaded O2 sensor is all to do with tightening up the emissions on fuel injected engines it maintains precise control over the air/fuel ratios, it wont take lot to upset an O2 sensor as it operates within a very tight band so dirt such as oil or cheap fuel will blind it, therefore you can try and clean them by soaking them in white spirit and a gentle clean with a soft brush, I personally just replace them in view of how cheap they have become, that theory fails when you buy a later vehicle where the O2 and Nox sensor are built into one unit then they are £200 north per sensor, the sensor inner is made of various precious metals which pick out contaminant gases and oxygen in the exhaust stream, there is also a heater element in the core which measure the heat of the gases passing through the sensor and its the heater that normally starts to fail as it can't read any changes for a couple of milliseconds therefore throws the light up. Steve.

Hi about the cheapest good scanner is OBDEleven.

Hi you are about to play chase the ace, you can look at the o2 sensor but really you wont get very far without a plug in and scan, without this you can't disseminate which one of many faults it may be, the jury is still out on the full strip, ten mins to plug in and tell you exactly what it is. Steve.

Hi most likely the stalk is gone but you might be able to get it going by giving it a good soak in contact cleaner, I suspect the light issue may well be the bulbs in the back of the cluster, tiny things that push in to a twist fit holder. Steve.

Hi for what its worth take the o2 sensor out and give it a clean or go to your nearest independent garage bat your eyelids and ask if for £20 would they just plug it in and tell you what's up. Steve.

Hi sorry but you will need VCDS and the code off of the new unit, if you can get someone with OBDEleven they may well be able to do it, normally you get the ESP and steering sign after you change the battery but the trick I suggested cures both lights, personally I would not change the clock spring unless I had to codes are not symptomatic of component failure but I would never advise using second hand sensors like the steering angle sensor as when they come new there is a locking tab holding the part dead centre until its fitted, then you remove the tab, it only needs to be a quarter of a turn out and you have real problems, look in to OBDEleven and see if it has that function to re code your sensor. Steve.

Hi try turning the car on and turning the wheel left to full lock and then right full lock four times if this wont work it means your new steering angle sensor was not coded in when fitted. Steve.

Hi go on JGP online they will have the plug you want, Just German Parts. Steve.

Hi if its not that type of movement I described the other culprit would be the gear linkage on the side of the gearbox as this relies on nylon cups running on the metal ball joints on the mechanism, these wear and make the gear change sloppy thats why audi sell a repair kit. Steve.

Hi its the gearbox rear mount which is cheap enough if you buy aftermarket say Febi, classic signs are if you accelerate hard the stick moves back and when you decelerate without braking the stick moves forward, fairly easy to change if you have a four poster ramp and gearbox cradle to support the weight of the box when changing. Steve.

Hi what do you mean by removed DPF, adblue,EGR, do you mean deleted, the adblue would not cause any problems like this I would be looking at the live data for the injector functions and have a leak back test done, this is either a dodgy injector [they are five stage piezo units] or a dodgy map. Steve.

Hi the milage memory for that year is definitely stored in the binnacle along with the immobiliser, can't say definitively what mr £120 will or wont do, the only fact I am aware of is that every instrument cluster I have ever sent to ECU weather VAG VOLVO or Citroen has come back working, as they cast iron guarantee all their repairs and give you a report on the items condition generally you can see where the extra money went. Steve.

Hi have you had the car diagnosed with a scanner this would tell you what/where the offending sensor is. Steve.

There must be sub codes in there somewhere.

Hi can you please publish the codes as this may well indicate what is going wrong, did you recode the glow plug module. Steve.