Stevey Y

Hi the part number is on the hose, alternatively go on line there must be the worlds supply of silicone replacements.

Hi its most likely the resistor that is the problem, most idiots put these things in rather than repair the offending module, this just leads to problems as when the resistor fails [chinese cr@p] it throws the whole baby out with the bath water, I think you will find the igniter is integrated in to the end of the airbag, the tragic consequences of such bodges is the airbags fail to deploy in a collision and just promote more serious injury, best policy is to engage an auto electrician which may engender some new parts as well. Steve.

Hi your headlights are HID I think you will find that they are fitted with D5S bulbs and for reasons only known only to type approval in Germany they do not qualify for washers even though they throw out an equivalent amount of light to the old D3S equipped units, which needed washers, D5S units use a lot less voltage than D3S/D1S bulbs therefore are considered a greener alternative as they extend battery/alternator life, also D5S will not burn the reflector bowls unlike the above mentioned and they also have an integral ballast unit built in to the bulb housing so no more guessing if its the bulb or the separate ballast that was fitted to D3S/D1S. Steve.

Hi I can't see that one myself as you would have to do that every time you changed the battery as far as I know the throttle data is stored in the ECU and only changes when you fit a new throttle valve therefore the values have to be reset as the new one will move the butterfly a lot more easily than the old clogged unit. Steve.

Hi could be the pulley but I doubt it unless you bought a real cheap one, sounds more like a belt tensioner or one of the idler pulleys. With regard to the shocks replace both as the new shock normally finishes off the old one plus it will make it turn and ride better. Steve.

Hi can hear a slight hissing which seems more like a belt idler pulley, the things I would be more worried by are the perishing on the tyre and the leaking shock absorber. Steve.

Hi I know some aftermarket tanks are sold with no bag which is the selling point, it depends on the shape of the tank if its round you can't remove it as it sits behind a second skin inside the tank, if its square you can fish it out with a pair of extra long needle nosed pliers. Steve.

Hi Sachs or LUK.

Hi my advice would be to leave well alone, the type of modifications you suggest may well throw the suspension geometry way out therefore taking it beyond any adjustment that currently exists naturally on the original set up, it is doable but will involve some serious spending as you will have altered the offset of the wheels massively with your current wheels being designed for that specific car. Steve.

Hi the compression readings should be between 140 and 175psi with no more than 10% variation between each cylinder, if its running rough I would seriously get it plugged in to see what else is wrong before throwing any money at it, dont get it done on a mates cheap code reader thats suicidal it either wont pick up true faults or pick up generic codes that dont relate to anything. Steve.

Hi you say the compression figures were low, as in how much lower than the figure quoted for ideal?, most oil pressure systems put on the light when the pressure drops to 4psi if it sinks any lower you will hear the big ends knocking, either way it wont do it any favours as Gareth said driving it like that, rather than lashing out on a new oil pump it will be better to drop the sump and remove the the caps on the crank one at a time and check that the big end shells are not scored or excessively worn if you do the first one and they are scored or the crank journal has scores dont bother with rest of them as you can guarantee the rest are the same or worse, in this case either get a refurbished engine or have your unit reconditioned with a new oil pump, personally I never use anything other than O.E. pumps and if you use reverse logic, if the original pump has managed 150k there is no reason why it wont do it again. Steve.

Hi go on ebay there is a guy on there doing refurbed units with the valve for about £200, other than that you can buy an aftermarket cooler for around £300 and then the valve for about another £180, the refurb units are all genuine and a mate of mine bought one for his Skoda and to be honest you can't tell the difference except the price and they are all genuine VAG units, I think the company is called aft and has no bad feedback. Steve.

Hi go on LLL carparts online and put in your VIN number, its an online parts store that should give you an exploded diagram with the part number, judging by the last picture I think it will probably be sold as a whole unit in which case you might be better served going second hand the whole unit number is under the Bosch logo in the last picture looks like 561 b?. Steve.

Hi I think you have an airlock get the system re bled, other than that flush the whole system there something causing the lack of flow, if its auto check the thermostat for the gearbox oil cooler. Steve.

Hi its most likely a dodgy relay, just had it on my daughters Q3, changed the relay all good. Steve.

Hi even if your vehicle is non UDS that wont affect the coding of the battery as non UDS just means that it mainly concentrates on monitoring emissions equipment, EGR, fuelling and ignition/injection protocols, full UDS was developed to encompass recoding of components all over the car as well as fault finding and code clearance. Steve.

Hi you could have used the existing BEM code and just changed the last THREE digits or just made up any ten digit code you can even use a row of zeros it wont make a lot of difference, as for the battery type you can put in UNK for unknown, I do find it strange they recommend a replacement that has a lower amp hour rating but a higher cranking rating, I would guess that part of the fuel problem may be the lift pump in the tank whenever that goes wonky the first thing it suggests is that the HPFP is at fault, check the lift pump flow on live data when running if its over 600 at idle the pump is on its way out or more often than not they just fail, easy way to test is get a false fuel supply tank connected above theHPFP so gravity is forcing the fuel down in to the feed pie and then try starting it. Steve.

Hi if you could please describe the symptoms of the error as the scan shows up ok, if it was the EGR system it would flag up something. Steve.

Hi it has nothing to do with the braking bias and more to do with the pad material, one of the posters mentioned Audi fitting low dust pads, these are always noisy and a lot harder compound standard aftermarket pads contain more organic compounds which create more dust but generally make less noise. Steve.

Hi did you code in the new injector, if not it throws the whole thing out, the reason behind coding is it restores the balance to the engine in so much as it informs the ECU of the new injector and the ECU adjusts the parameters to suit the new unit, dont believe everything you hear from specialists, I have always worked on the theory that if an item is made by a man another man can take it apart and put in repair parts to make it function again, we had all this with early Bosch piezo injectors, can't be refurbished, a year later United Diesels were advertising refurbed units. Steve.

You did not mention any of the above in the original posts, you just said you did not want to get on the bad side of them which begs the question are you afraid of the dealer?, thats the whole point of having a warranty however short, thats precisely what you do aim it back at them and get it fixed, assuming you are not capable of fixing it yourself which no one else has managed to do I am really at a loss to see what any other poster can offer you, based on your original post Cliff was as usual precise and correct you can either get your smart brain in to gear and book it in and take a couple of days annual leave which I am sure your employer wont sack you for, as for anger management I find persecution complexes far more disturbing. Steve.

Hi could well be a blocked/ failing PCV valve on the cam housing, not sure if you can replace the valve or its incorporated in to the cam cover. Short journeys a lot of the time wont do it any favours. Steve.

Hi sorry the filter you are showing is an OIL FILTER NOT A FUEL filter.

Hi the small ring is for cars equipped with the housing that can be drained for water in between filter changes which I assume your version does not have. Steve.

Hi the sticky throttle valve will cause strain on the pedal sensor and quite possibly fry its location discs I normally replace both items when one goes, IE the throttle body they generally wear as a set, if you were looking to buy a car thats cheap to repair you have unfortunately bought an Audi which will never be cheap to fix even the old ones, if you stick a new sensor on with the old throttle it will most likely kill the new sensor in record time, no part has an infinite life/milage span and often as not you have to bite the bullet and just replace the parts. Steve.