Steve.

That is a very valid point. It is showing classic signs of clutch wear and tear but definitely worth getting it diagnosed first.

Agreed, I am not going to be out of pocket. I'm not great at making decisions, but I genuinely think it is going to be worth fixing the clutch. Fingers crossed it lasts until February so I can sort it then and hopefully will be in a more stable financial situation.

It's a 16 year old car, worth 600 to 800 quid with a working clutch. It was a private sale from my friend, he knew the clutch was on its way out as did i so this was reflected in the price. No need to be concerned. I wished however that I could have gotten a year out of it and then scrapped it/sold it when I was in a better financial situation.

It sounds like the hub/driveshaft were removed from another model and fitted to your car, I'm not sure what model has 282 mm discs on the front but A3s and some Q3 models have rear disks that are 282 mm. I would agree that you check the local breakers for the correct hub, but check that your caliper matches the other side and driveshaft too. Either way having different brake disks and pads on any car is very dangerous and could cause major imbalance.

I am being very tentative and what I call "granny shifting" and only driving when essential. I think the car does have a lot of potential as there is not a single spot of rust and the body work is flawless with the exception of a 1 inch scuff on the osr bumper. It has 12 service stamps, timing belt changed a few thousand miles ago and interior wise it is spotless. The only minor issues I have is the rear reversing sensors, the one above the exhaust is faulty so I have a OEM sensor to replace it with The MPG is a bit of a shock going from a 60+mpg diesel Skoda to a petrol A3 and the suspension is rather hard, which I'm guessing is due to it being the sport model. Also the connects2 aftermarket audio setup only plays through the left speakers but that's an easy inexpensive fix that will be tackled if the clutch is within my budget. Now I'm going off topic! £250 to £300 labour sounds quite reasonable, I'm in a new area due to a house move so my trusted mechanics are too far away to use. So hopefully I can find out who the trusted mechanics are around here. Anyway stay safe and thanks for the advice and insight. 👍

This seems to be going off topic and becoming a moot point. The relevance to my original question seems to be lost somehow, but if you are interested here goes. I got it for around scrap value with a mot until August next year, I did realise the clutch biting point was rather high but it was not slipping 2000 miles ago. In my experience of clutches and 25 years of driving I knew it would have to be addressed, I just rather optimistically hoped I could have got a year out of it. Long story short, due the the current pandemic I am out of work and my Octavia packed in so I had an extremely tight budget having 4 sons to buy for Christmas and only living off my military war pension. I will be getting quotes as soon as I am able to, I have not been able to for quite a few reasons, most of which are private and personal. But I shall edit my original question. Has anyone had to change their A3 FSI clutch. If so would you be so kind as to share how much it cost. Many thanks.

Thank you for the quick reply, I priced up LUK parts including the flywheel which seem to be around £200. I was just looking for an approximate ball park figure as if it's costing more than the car is worth. If that was the case I reckon it would be unwise to proceed with the replacement. Most garages around here are £35 an hour to £50 an hour labour costs. The mileage is 126000. 👍

Hey all, I have acquired a daily 2004 Audi A3 3 door 2.0 FSI with a slightly slipping clutch. I'm new to Audi A3s and just wondered what ball park figure I'd be looking at for clutch replacement. I'm located in Fife Scotland. Can I just replace the clutch or do I have to replace more than that. Thanks in advance. Steve