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Found 17 results

  1. Evening. I have developed a single spring/clunk noise when turning and stopping in reverse. Mostly happens on a slight incline. Any ideas? Much appreciated.
  2. Hi, I purchased a new Q8 in November 2019. Ever since I’ve owned the car, the brakes appear to ‘grind’ at low speed, especially when cold. They also squeal at times. I’ve had multiple cars of this value from other manufacturers and never had this problem before (in fact, we also brought a new Q5 for my wife at the same time, and she has no issues with this). I’ve been back to the dealer and they claim it’s ‘normal’. Is this correct ? I just wanted to check other peoples experience before I go back again. Thanks
  3. Hi, Could anyone help me with this query. I'd like to upgrade the discs and calipers on my Audi A4 2.0TDI. Its got a sticking front caliper and I need new pads and discs. I currently have 288mm discs and ATE calipers. I'd like to upgrade to 320mm discs and calipers is this possible? Would S4 brakes fit? I'm guessing i'd need new mounting brackets as well as discs,pads and caliper's? Has anyone doen this before that could give me some advice. Thanks Duncan
  4. Hi everyone, I recently bought an a3 8p 2.0tfsi quattro 56 plate. I serviced it and put new discs and pads on. When it came to putting on the front right the discs wouldn’t fit. The guy asked me to check breakers for a carrier and a wheel hub. I bought both but it didn’t fix the job. My front brakes should have 312mm discs. The left does but the right has 282mm discs. Any help? I can’t figure out why the standard 312mm discs don’t fit. Is it the wheel hub, carrier or something else? Any help will be very much appreciated. for reference my front brakes should be: 312mm by 25mm
  5. Hi there! I have a friend who has an Audi A6 C7 (2013) 3.0 V6 TDI and it has ceramic brakes. He told me that the car's previous owner was an Audi engineer in Germany and he put the ceramic brakes on it. Now, my friend possibly have a problem with the discs, because he might have micro damages on it. He wants to replace them, but the ceramic brakes cost a fortune, and way more than the whole car, so obviously he doesn't want that. The question is: is it possible to swap the complete ceramic brake system (incl. discs, pads, calipers and everything) to a conventional/normal brake system? Or is it a big job? That would be nice to hear that he can just remove the ceramic set, and 'plug-and-play' the normal ones. I guess it's not that easy. :) Thanks in advance, David
  6. Hi All, I'm writing in relation to my 2006 3.0 A6 Allroad. Time has come to change the rear discs and pads. I've done this job countless times on other vehicles and am OK with the release of the EPB (I have VAGCOM) etc. but am hoping that someone can clarify the CORRECT procedure for this job, especially when it comes to pushing the caliper piston back. Now, most mechanics I speak to simply say, take the cap of the brake fluid reservoir and push the piston back, using a screwdriver or appropriate tool. Now ordinarily that's what I'd have expected although when I last referred to a well know car repair manual (all be it for a different make/model) it stated that when pushing the piston back in it was ESSENTIAL that the hose be clamped and the bleed nipple opened. It was stated that this was to ensure no seals were 'flipped' by the back-flow of fluid and so that none of the contaminated fluid from the caliper found it's way back into the system which could cause issues/damage to sensitive ABS components. Can ANYONE clarify what is the correct procedure as it's driving me nuts not being able to find a definitive answer to this one? Thanks, Alex
  7. Used 365 mm 8 pot caliper set up fro sale including flexi hoses, the discs have done less than 2000 miles from new, can be seen working as still on the car atm photo of when they were fitted and is not up to date! Looking for £1000 ono for the lot
  8. Hi, My brakes work perfectly day to day on short journeys, rarely above 50 mph but if I take it on a long motorway journey the pedal starts to travel to the floor after about 40 mins. The brakes still work but not ideal, If I come off the motorway and keep driving the brakes slowly return to normal. I'm assuming this could be the brake fluid getting hot due to friction in the brakes and the viscosity of the fluid changing. Any thoughts Thanks in advance.
  9. Paddyparko

    brakes

    hi guys I'm looking fir some help. I'm looking at purchasing some ebc discs and pads but I'm unsure what the best value ones are to get and also what specific sizings I need?? any help would be much appreciated.
  10. Hi all. I'm in the process of buying an A4 (2001) Sport Quattro 2.5TDi with 130k miles. This is my first Audi and also my first 4wd car so any advice is appreciated. I'm fairly set on buying a car I went to see last night and looking for advice on a few things I noticed. Took it for a short test drive late last night, a quick burst down some A road, a dart around town and some squiggly residential streets when I started heading back to my own house instead of the sellers and got quite lost in somewhere I've lived for nearly 3 years. It pulls like a train, even compared to my current car that pulls like a train, the engine is quiet with no funny noises, thumps or clunks that scared me. The car has been sat for a month but before that the wings, bumpers and bonnet had been fully resprayed, the interior is tidy aside from the odd switch or button with worn off markings. The timing belt was changed 20k ago, I don't know if the water pump was also done. Google tells me this is vital (opinions please) The things I'd like to question are: The brake pedal was quite long (though not all the way to the floor) and quite soft without a huge amount of braking effort (I didn't head butt the steering wheel, but it stopped). It feels like they need bled, it might just be unused pads and discs from the month but wondering if there's anything else that you guys think it might be? Wheel wobble that feels positively from the front drivers side wheel, I'd have put it down to a badly balanced wheel but if there's anything else it might be, let me know. A scraping/grinding noise from front passenger wheel well but only when turning right (from slightly right to mini roundabout right), when we got back and put a torch in we found a shield of some kind behind the leading edge of the brake disc had pushed over ever so slightly and would gently rub the disc when turning right. Does anyone know why this might be pushed over? The handbrake pulls up far enough to push the centre armrest up a touch, is this just an adjustment or would it be stretched and need replacing? As I said at the beginning, this will be my first Audi and also my first 4wd car so a lot of things will be new to me. I'm a tinkerer when I have time so things like handbrake cable, bleeding brakes and replacing pads and discs, having a look at that shield etc are all within my comfort zone. Any help or advise you can give is all very much appreciated. Cheers Shealesy
  11. Hi, can someone please help me, new to this.ive got an Audi A4 b8 s line and I was getting the parking brake malfunction visit workshop on the DIS, and when I tried realising the EPB the right caliper would realise but the left wouldn't. Thought it was the caliper so I changed it with another one and it seemed okay for a day. Then the same error had came up and I stuck my vcds on and the issue is 02432 supply voltage for left parking brake motor (v282) 011 - open circuit - MIL ON. Anyone know what it could be I've tried searching for this but I haven't found anything the same. Could it possibly be the wiring harness to the motor?any help is much appreciated.
  12. Hello all I have a Audi A6 3.0TDI S Line Le Mans So far I have Upgraded - The exhaust to quad exits like the S6 and it sounds incredible. Had to buy a rear diffuser off a S6 to accommodate them. Proffesional Re Map and that made so much difference in top end acceleration and throttle response. Replaced the grill with a New RS6 grill all in glossy black including the badge. Rear window tints in limo on top of factory tints so it's completely black from the outside, looks superb. Front and back lights slightly tinted but not to much as I don't like them too black as you need them to see and reflect. All the interior lights replaced with white led which really improves the look inside much more modern. 4x Uniroyal Rainsport 3's because in my mind it's mostly raining here in England and they really are good in the wet. Wind deflectors on all windows and now I'm thinking of brakes. It doesn't stop quick enough at the moment because it's got cheap pads on. What pads are people using and if I get ceramic ones will the brake system fry under a lot of hard braking. I am going back to the Nurburgring soon and I don't want them to fade to much as they do now. Do people have vented discs and are they good? Is there much difference? Has anyone done a full upgrade all round or found a big brake kit for the C6? Thanks in advance. I have already been to the Nurburgring in this car and a few others and fried the brakes every time and had to take breaks between laps. I can't wait to go back and do it again though.lkj
  13. Audi A6 3.0TDI S Line Le Mans I am going back to the Nurburgring soon and I need new brake pads if not a new brake system. Anyone upgraded them? What's best for brake fade and if I get ceramic will it fry the brake system completely
  14. Runs great, recently had the timing belt and water pump changed as a precaution and all fine. However I have noticed a grinding noise when braking on the drivers side at the rear (louder when the car is cold or just off the drive) Yesterday I had the car washed and noticed there was a clicking noise when breaking, along with the grinding noise at breaking. The clicking wore off but seemed to be related to the car having being washed. I had the breaks looks at looked at by an indy and they couldn't spot anything, any ideas?
  15. Hi All, This forum and others has given me some information but hoping someone can give me more information. Pressing brake pedal; seemingly operates as normal but maybe 3/4 of its full distance is stiffens up (ie. more than you would expect). This is only really noticeable when you're driving at high speed and need to stop or slow down in a short distance. Main issue seems to be the slow return of the brake pedal. It does return fully, but takes a few seconds to do so. Brake light remains on and brakes do seem to be 'dragging'. Will then release. Had the car in the garage for something different. They had a quick look and said discs, pads and calipers seem ok but will get it up in the air and check properly. I've been warned that it (hopefully) could be something simple such as split hose or in worst case scenario could be knackered servo. I trust the guys (used them for years) but they are not Audi specialists. They reckon that if it was a replacement servo that it might be an engine out job, which is probably not going to be cheap on a 3.2 quattro. I'll be getting it back in at the end of the month for more investigation, tyres, service and all being well an MOT. I've had a look but can't see any obvious hose damage around the servo or hear any hissing. Has anyone had this issue before on this model or another? Would it be an engine out job or can it be repaired or replaced in situ? Thanks in advance
  16. My A3 was new in Oct 2015 and has covered just 4.600 miles. (and driven very carefully) A week or so ago I noticed that the O/S/R brake disc was rusty and scored, the remaining 3 were smooth and polished as you would expect on a car being used daily. My Audi garage put the car on their Dyno test rig and found no brake fault. Having been in the trade for over 40 years I argued that this is not normal as they suggested...............(1 rusty disc and 3 polished ones) but they insisted that there was nothing they could do or replace under warranty. I am astonished that they released the nearly new vehicle with no detailed investigation into the reasons for the rust, their only comment was "that this was a NORMAL" thing to expect.
  17. Hi there i've recently bought an Audi A4 estate and it's a great car - but sure you all know that already! I've just noticed that the brakes have started to lose the ability to stop the car if they are used several times in rapid succession - no problems at all if you just stand on them, the car stops immediately. Problem is when you use them constantly to slow down and then want to bring the car to a complete stop you really need to stand on them (pedal feels like the system needs bleeding). I took the car to KwikFit thinking it may just be air in the system (didn't really believe it could be as i'd not disturbed it so how could air get in!). When KwikFit fitter said car had to go to Audi to and suggested it may be related to the vacuum - any ideas/suggestions? obviously i'm reluctant to take it to Audi but i also need to have confidence the brakes are going to do the job! AndyS
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