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Stagn8

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Everything posted by Stagn8

  1. Rover used to have an optional auxiliary heater available on diesels which preheated the water so gave a warm start with instant defrosting and warm interior. They were diesel powered and available both with a timer or a remote system using a mobile phone signal. Could it be something along those lines?
  2. Did have an imported Nissan Pulsar GTiR for a while! Looked pretty mean so just had boost adjusted to 280 bhp.
  3. I've got a 45 tfsi but it is an A5 quattro cabriolet. Mines a few years old and I did think quattro was the only way to get this engine but could be wrong. I am getting 30mph on gentle driving around town, a long term average of 30mph and a maximum of 35 on a mostly motorway journey. I don't hoon about and it is mostly on economy so I would guess this probably as good as it will get 😀. Seems reasonable to me as was only getting around 36 with an Outlander diesel.
  4. Different experiences lead us all to different preferences 😀 and of course preferred solutions. Terminal blocks work well and I believe from the picture that is what has been used, wrapped in tape for extra protection and most importantly with a loop to remove strain, without that the movement will pull the wires out quite quickly. My beef with them is the difficulty of getting all the strands neatly into the block and once you have tightened the screw only a few wires will actually be under the screw and secured so overall quite a weak join. House wiring is all single core and doesn’t move, soldering, wago, terminal blocks all work well, it is multi strand that causes difficulty. Sorry to derail thread but my own view is that shared knowledge and experience along with discussion, if relevant, should be the backbone of a good ‘forum’. Perhaps I am wrong.
  5. An open circuit means a break in the circuit somewhere, as you mentioned, a broken wire would do it, just means voltage or current can’t travel past the break so nothing reaches whatever is being actuated so it doesn’t work. It would certainly be a probable cause of the actuators/ solenoids in your doors not working. Equally it could be switches not working, modules not outputting, all sorts in fact, so take Steven Ys advice and get it scanned for the correct module number, cheaper in the long run.
  6. It’s all in the twisting Cliff 😀! I was in electro-mechanics for many years and had many solder failures (dry joints, fractured joints, high resistance joints, so not a fan, though have used on occasion) as a good solder joint depends on a fair amount of skill along with the correct flux, iron etc. So, for the average Joe mechanic a twisted joint with heat sleeve is reasonably simple and reasonably fool proof. There are some superb in line jointing devices available these days including ones which shrink and have a bonding agent to make them waterproof but of course you need to have them at hand before discovering the need 😀. If there is sufficient slack in the loom to allow for a loop and a reduction in the stress of opening and closing then both methods would have equal merit but if the loom is a bit on the tight side then careful consideration will be needed as to the best solution and perhaps an extra bit of cable will need to be spliced in.
  7. Just as an aside, soldering wires seems a great solution but with movement the brittle solder will crack as mentioned in one of the above posts. A better solution is to mechanically twist the wires together and then cover with heat shrink tubing to keep it all together. This way movement can be incorporated without risking further breaks.
  8. Just for clarity Gareth, 160 cm is the width of the material ‘on the roll’, it is then pulled off and then cut to the length you require, based on units of 50cm for pricing. Hope that helps? Kind regards Keith
  9. What is your heating like Peter, should be pumping out lots of heat within a few minutes, probably easiest if you to put front screen demister on and feel the temperature at the screen. The reason for asking is there should be a thermostat keeping hot water in the engine and heater system, temporarily bypassing the radiator, a slow warm up and not reaching temperature suggests that the thermostat is staying open leaving the main radiator in circuit hence the slow warm up and cold running. If that is the case then it needs to be fixed pretty quick, as you have mentioned it will impact on all sorts of things, oil will be too thick to properly lubricate, fuel mixture will be all wrong leading to low mpg, etc,etc. If this was a few year old or high mileage car I would definitely be suspecting the thermostat but on a new car it would be odd, perhaps it is as simple as a temperature sensor reading wrongly but whatever it needs fixing and quickly. I'll put my hand up to being old school but I am pretty certain that there will a time frame for min and max engine temperatures, if the engine doesn't reach, or exceed these then a code will be thrown and I would of thought an orange engine management light as a minimum, suggesting you get it to a dealer quick! It really shouldn't happen on a new vehicle but with so much complexity something is bound to go wrong, frustrating, but on the bright side you do have the warranty. I spend all my time listening out for odds noises, dodgy gear changes etc but that is just me. Still enjoy the car though. Hopefully another visit to the dealer will illicit some decent replies and of course you are a bit better armed this time!!
  10. You don’t need to worry as all is under warranty but you are right to think there is something very odd and requires some explanation. A petrol engine should be up to temp. pretty quickly, mine is up to 90 degrees within a three or four miles (45 TFSI). If this isn’t happening you do need to know why, as running under temp. can lead to excessive wear as the engine is designed around a specific running temp. I would of thought not reaching the correct temperature within a specified time would throw a code as it is an important parameter. Assuming this is an Audi dealership then ask them for a copy of the diagnostic print out and post here. The tyre thing is very odd as that suggests you will be needing a new set before a thousand miles, at your mileage they will only just be about scrubbed in and working at a 100%. Again, the dealership need to explain to you how the tyres have become that worn in so few miles, or alternatively how have they come to that conclusion, do they know the dread depth of a new tyre of that manufacturer or are they generalising? I think a revisit to the dealership with a request for a proper explanation of both situations, emphasising that you don’t believe either of these things are normal. If no sensible answers are forthcoming let them know you are going to escalate to Audi direct.
  11. Not wanting to teach granny to suck eggs here but have you looked on the door pillar for a sticker? All vehicles should have one and if you don’t perhaps you need to be asking why? If the sticker is missing then you should be able to get a replacement from your Audi dealer. PS. It might be on the rear edge of the drivers door, under the locking mechanism.
  12. No need to check T and Cs, you are protected under The Consumer Rights Act 2015. Money back within 30 days of supplying faulty product, including second hand cars. Very odd that you have had such serious faults on such low mileage, I always feel you lose a bit of confidence at times like this.
  13. Not much help, but my a5(45 tfsi auto) is in 5th gear at 30mph, the same as my previous Outlander. Third gear (and second) would seem far too low a gear and would certainly explain excessive fuel consumption. I assume it is manual?
  14. JCB seem to think hydrogen powered ICE engines are the way to go. This definitely worth watching, would need to be scaled down for road cars but easily doable.
  15. Definitely a runner of an idea, although I don’t have any electronics under my seat! It is cabriolet though so a sensible idea. I think my Rover 75 had exactly the same problem, also with a duck bill tube. The duck bill tube is soft rubber/plastic with one end bought together a bit like the end of a balloon. The Rover one exited in the wheel arch so the duck bill stopped water entering but of course if it fills up with gunge then it can’t clear and leads to the aforementioned flooding. A good but flawed design. Fingers crossed that is the problem, cheap fix if nothing has been damaged under the seat. Also a timely reminder to us all to keep the scuttle clear of debris as Autumn is well under way with lots of leaves. You now have a couple of easy checks to make, gunge in the scuttle and water under your seat!! Justpopping out to check mine 😂😂.
  16. Finding decent and honest traders can be taxing. I am new to Audi (have been Japanese before and of course they don’t breakdown 😁😁) so did spend time sourcing an independent with plenty of a five star reviews before splashing the cash. Any decent trader won’t mind having his/her customers giving feedback via a review site, of course you have to find your way through the people with an axe to grind but that is the best I can suggest. Luckily I have a shop fairly close by which has been in business for many, many years, bit of a rough diamond but gives it to you straight ‘ you do realise this is Chinese donkey doo don’t you, I’ll repair it for you but don’t bring it back when it breaks again will you’ being typical, though of course far more colourful. Salt of the earth as they say, was also training up an apprentice to carry things on so a grand fella all round. As to electric, I’m hoping to bypass that and go straight to hydrogen when government and manufacturers finally get their heads looking in the right direction. Mind you I think there will be enough ICE cars around to last me until the DVLA wrest my driving license from my hands. I tow a largish caravan so electric makes no sense to me and even when it becomes a possibility it will beyond my income!!
  17. Actually thinking about it, it could in fact be as simple as the brushes in the alternator, which could be affected by the cars movement if they have broken up. Didn’t think of it earlier because they shouldn’t normally cause a problem but as there is suspicion around the quality of the supplied alternator then brushes that have broken up becomes a likely culprit.
  18. Hi Ian, I had read you as a frustrated Audi owner as I would be in your position and absolutely no offence taken at any of your posts 😀. I think you are being entirely reasonable in believing your alternator should last more than three years, my sons BM is 13 years old and at a quarter million miles and alternator is still working as it should. Mechanically there is not much happening in an alternator but the diodes which convert the electricity produced into DC voltage and control output are subject to failure. My guess would be that you have a failed diode pack on the alternator, which would also suggest a less than reputable make of alternator as diodes are ‘solid state’ (fully electrical with no moving parts) and shouldn’t fail if used within normal parameters, which you have already said applies to your driving style. Generally a good electrical specialist should be able to rebuild your alternator with a new diode and service pack at much less cost than an Audi replacement. Unfortunately they usually require you to present the alternator to them but they can and should test it before doing any work. So, your plan sounds a good one and perhaps pursue the line of having the battery and alternator tested independently.
  19. I guess you may have gone as far as you can with your current equipment, as Gareth mentions it is more common now to use a vacuum system or more cheaply pumping fluid from each wheel cylinder back to the master cylinder pushing any air on its way. The kits for DIY are reasonably priced but a bit ‘low rent’.
  20. No need to apologise at all Gareth as you are correct, just using the word as a catch all for any potential or actual battery drain, including of course all the monitoring systems. Ian, as Gareth suggests need to know alternator output, both when battery is fully charged and when under load, i.e, headlights on, heated screen on, heating on etc. With what you have described you could have a dodgy cell taking the battery down which can potentially take your alternator down as it is under maximum duress, or it could be your alternator only putting out a low or intermittent current which will take your battery out if it drops much below 12.1v.
  21. Never had a car with DRL’s you can turn off, seems to defeat the object to me, so everything I have driven has had the dashboard lit.
  22. Just confirming, if your aren’t using a one way kit or having the end of the bleed hose in fluid, then you need to lock off nipple with brake pedal on the floor, this ensures nothing untoward (air) gets sucked back in. Gareth gives good advice and the only other thing I can suggest is the master cylinder isn’t fully bleeding giving you the soft pedal or there is a regulator or similar in the brake lines holding a bit of air. Try tracking your brake lines from each wheel back to the master cylinder looking for anything that might interrupt flow.
  23. H’mm car should be monitoring battery voltage and keeping it close to 12.7v, the voltage you have measured 12.28v is close to flat ( 12v is considered fully discharged and if it reaches that it is pretty much goosed!). If that is with the engine running at would certainly suggest something wrong in the charging circuit. I think yours is a bit early for a smart alternator so not a lot in the charging system, so as you suggest, wiring or alternator, I always try and start with cheapest first, so look for wiring problems, tension on belts, then pop your battery down to Halfords to get them to do a check, that usually means putting a high (current) load across the terminals and seeing what happens to the voltage. I’m old school and used to hook up a couple of headlight bulbs and watch the voltage drop 😁. If the battery checks out OK then you can get a voltmeter which plugs into your cigarette lighter which allow you to visualise what is happening with the charging systems. Always difficult to remote fault find but gut feeling would be alternator but plenty of things to check before then.
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