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Stagn8 last won the day on January 10

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About Stagn8

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    Classics, volunteer at Brooklands Museum, caravanning.
  • Location
    Sunbury on Thames
  • Audi Model
    A5 45 tfsi Quattro S-line Cabriolet
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  1. I have bought exactly the same one and it is in the glove box ‘just in case’ as so far not had the problem 🤞🏻. I think the price is about right as if it is a pressure sensor all that’s likely to be in there is a sprung loaded bit of material which reacts to the vacuum generated in the servo and relays an ‘on’ message to an ecu to confirm the servo is operating. If the ecu doesn’t get the signal then it compensates by operating the abs unit, which we all know know can’t take fairly continuous operation. No idea how VAG justify their prices but the one I received has ‘made in Germany’ on it, so hopefully not been anywhere near China. Having said that, the Chinese are more than capable of producing very high quality parts if they want/need to and I am pretty sure all the German manufacturers have a fair smattering of Chinese parts made to their own exacting standards. ( Not sure what standards were being followed for these sensors though, pretty minimal ones I would hazard)
  2. Rover used to have an optional auxiliary heater available on diesels which preheated the water so gave a warm start with instant defrosting and warm interior. They were diesel powered and available both with a timer or a remote system using a mobile phone signal. Could it be something along those lines?
  3. Did have an imported Nissan Pulsar GTiR for a while! Looked pretty mean so just had boost adjusted to 280 bhp.
  4. I've got a 45 tfsi but it is an A5 quattro cabriolet. Mines a few years old and I did think quattro was the only way to get this engine but could be wrong. I am getting 30mph on gentle driving around town, a long term average of 30mph and a maximum of 35 on a mostly motorway journey. I don't hoon about and it is mostly on economy so I would guess this probably as good as it will get 😀. Seems reasonable to me as was only getting around 36 with an Outlander diesel.
  5. Different experiences lead us all to different preferences 😀 and of course preferred solutions. Terminal blocks work well and I believe from the picture that is what has been used, wrapped in tape for extra protection and most importantly with a loop to remove strain, without that the movement will pull the wires out quite quickly. My beef with them is the difficulty of getting all the strands neatly into the block and once you have tightened the screw only a few wires will actually be under the screw and secured so overall quite a weak join. House wiring is all single core and doesn’t move, soldering, wago, terminal blocks all work well, it is multi strand that causes difficulty. Sorry to derail thread but my own view is that shared knowledge and experience along with discussion, if relevant, should be the backbone of a good ‘forum’. Perhaps I am wrong.
  6. An open circuit means a break in the circuit somewhere, as you mentioned, a broken wire would do it, just means voltage or current can’t travel past the break so nothing reaches whatever is being actuated so it doesn’t work. It would certainly be a probable cause of the actuators/ solenoids in your doors not working. Equally it could be switches not working, modules not outputting, all sorts in fact, so take Steven Ys advice and get it scanned for the correct module number, cheaper in the long run.
  7. It’s all in the twisting Cliff 😀! I was in electro-mechanics for many years and had many solder failures (dry joints, fractured joints, high resistance joints, so not a fan, though have used on occasion) as a good solder joint depends on a fair amount of skill along with the correct flux, iron etc. So, for the average Joe mechanic a twisted joint with heat sleeve is reasonably simple and reasonably fool proof. There are some superb in line jointing devices available these days including ones which shrink and have a bonding agent to make them waterproof but of course you need to have them at hand before discovering the need 😀. If there is sufficient slack in the loom to allow for a loop and a reduction in the stress of opening and closing then both methods would have equal merit but if the loom is a bit on the tight side then careful consideration will be needed as to the best solution and perhaps an extra bit of cable will need to be spliced in.
  8. Just as an aside, soldering wires seems a great solution but with movement the brittle solder will crack as mentioned in one of the above posts. A better solution is to mechanically twist the wires together and then cover with heat shrink tubing to keep it all together. This way movement can be incorporated without risking further breaks.
  9. Just for clarity Gareth, 160 cm is the width of the material ‘on the roll’, it is then pulled off and then cut to the length you require, based on units of 50cm for pricing. Hope that helps? Kind regards Keith
  10. What is your heating like Peter, should be pumping out lots of heat within a few minutes, probably easiest if you to put front screen demister on and feel the temperature at the screen. The reason for asking is there should be a thermostat keeping hot water in the engine and heater system, temporarily bypassing the radiator, a slow warm up and not reaching temperature suggests that the thermostat is staying open leaving the main radiator in circuit hence the slow warm up and cold running. If that is the case then it needs to be fixed pretty quick, as you have mentioned it will impact on all sorts of things, oil will be too thick to properly lubricate, fuel mixture will be all wrong leading to low mpg, etc,etc. If this was a few year old or high mileage car I would definitely be suspecting the thermostat but on a new car it would be odd, perhaps it is as simple as a temperature sensor reading wrongly but whatever it needs fixing and quickly. I'll put my hand up to being old school but I am pretty certain that there will a time frame for min and max engine temperatures, if the engine doesn't reach, or exceed these then a code will be thrown and I would of thought an orange engine management light as a minimum, suggesting you get it to a dealer quick! It really shouldn't happen on a new vehicle but with so much complexity something is bound to go wrong, frustrating, but on the bright side you do have the warranty. I spend all my time listening out for odds noises, dodgy gear changes etc but that is just me. Still enjoy the car though. Hopefully another visit to the dealer will illicit some decent replies and of course you are a bit better armed this time!!
  11. You don’t need to worry as all is under warranty but you are right to think there is something very odd and requires some explanation. A petrol engine should be up to temp. pretty quickly, mine is up to 90 degrees within a three or four miles (45 TFSI). If this isn’t happening you do need to know why, as running under temp. can lead to excessive wear as the engine is designed around a specific running temp. I would of thought not reaching the correct temperature within a specified time would throw a code as it is an important parameter. Assuming this is an Audi dealership then ask them for a copy of the diagnostic print out and post here. The tyre thing is very odd as that suggests you will be needing a new set before a thousand miles, at your mileage they will only just be about scrubbed in and working at a 100%. Again, the dealership need to explain to you how the tyres have become that worn in so few miles, or alternatively how have they come to that conclusion, do they know the dread depth of a new tyre of that manufacturer or are they generalising? I think a revisit to the dealership with a request for a proper explanation of both situations, emphasising that you don’t believe either of these things are normal. If no sensible answers are forthcoming let them know you are going to escalate to Audi direct.
  12. Not wanting to teach granny to suck eggs here but have you looked on the door pillar for a sticker? All vehicles should have one and if you don’t perhaps you need to be asking why? If the sticker is missing then you should be able to get a replacement from your Audi dealer. PS. It might be on the rear edge of the drivers door, under the locking mechanism.
  13. No need to check T and Cs, you are protected under The Consumer Rights Act 2015. Money back within 30 days of supplying faulty product, including second hand cars. Very odd that you have had such serious faults on such low mileage, I always feel you lose a bit of confidence at times like this.
  14. Not much help, but my a5(45 tfsi auto) is in 5th gear at 30mph, the same as my previous Outlander. Third gear (and second) would seem far too low a gear and would certainly explain excessive fuel consumption. I assume it is manual?
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