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all sorted steve unplugged it gave it a clean with some electrical cleaner,and made sure the plug clicked in place nice and tight cleared the code took it for a drive all fine.no codes.here are some pics(yes 1 rubber grommit missing) thank you best regards stephen

thats great steve thank you just one thing do you know what the part is called so i can look on ebay and order one if need be thanks

hi stevey Y thanks for your quick reply that sounds good to me i will update sometime tomorrow thanks😁

hi all,i have a code p101600(see pic 1) can someone give me advice of what i need to do to solve this. i have taken 3 other pics of part of the engine.are these the areas i need to tackle(clean out).or does this mean something completely different.i am asking as my miles to the gallon is around 30 and sometimes the car idles roughly.having said this, it does run fine.also i had code p0104(see pic) but removed these items and cleaned the maf sensor and connection plug with electrical cleaner and hair dried them cleared that code..took the car for a run and no code showing for that now.(pic 5 showing maf sensor part no)hope it helps someone. thanks again all

AAAHHH i see thank you for that explantion thats a relief cheers Mwignall2

been busy steve and just seen this post. i am so sorry to here about the sump🤥 regards stephen

hi when i unlock the car only the drivers door unlocks. i have to press the key twice for the other 3 doors to unlock.as in my pic i have the auto locking off i did try auto locking on just in case.i tried the diagnostics and it locked and unlocked the doors.but no faults.so does it look like i will have to strip the 3 doors and give them a good clean as advised by Mwignall2 thanks

just got your message steve Y as been busy thanks for the tip as i managed to start the car within that ten second time frame and then turned the ignition off and back on and it started straight away.took it for a run and its spot on thanks.you cant always go by some youtube videos even though they mean well.

update no need to pump the fuel through😉with the handbrake on and in first gear jack the car up on the drivers side where the 2 jacking points are then put 2 axle stands underneath and remove both the small and the large cover most are 10ml and are them funny plastic plugs which can easily break.theres a couple of plug ones where you have to remove the central plug before removing the outer plug.there is also i think a couple of 10ml nuts too....note where all you remove come from.then remove the bracket that keeps the fuel filter from dropping down.held on by 1 10ml nut.then carefully squeese the back bracket of the filter and move it away from the filter and do the same with the front bracket i then placed a bowl underneath and removed the front pipe from the filter and lifted it upwards to keep as much fuel as possible in place and stuck it between the 2 brake pipes.and did the same with the pipe at the back of the filter.and then tipped the fuel from the old filter into the bowl and then removed the 2 covers from the old filter and put them on the new one(Audi dealer only supplied the bare unit (£35)as they now sell the 2 coverings seperately).....note in my picture the arrow on the filter is pointing towards the front of the car when fitting.i carefully put the back pipe on to the fuel filter and put the clip back in place and same with the front pipe been carefully not to spill much fuel(to make it easier to start the car)....it is a bit tight putting the front clip up to the filter,after doing the back one....then put everything back in reverse order.pics 17/18/19 shows what its like underneath without the plastic covers on.pic 20 shows what can happen over unscrewing the plastic nuts.last pic i was told to remove the pipe and attach a clear pipe to it with a hand pump a bit like mine until the fuel comes through.....please look at steve Q's tip on priming the pump first

hi,thinking of changing the fuel filter on my audi a4 avant estate 2011 tdi cja engine ?.ive looked on youtube but concerned about pumping fuel through with a hand pump.....i bought and used this one (see pic) on my old volvo v40 and it worked ok....i have no problem removing the fuel filter.its the pumping fuel through side.can i use the one in the pic.....has anyone done this job without using diagnostics to pump it through as i dont have one.i know the fuel pump can damage your pump then engine if not done right.i have not rung a garage as i want to save money.but if people think its best to use a garage then fair enough i will leave it.i have the car on ramps at the moment.if i do go ahead i will post pics thanks all

hey i like them steve😁

any update on the oil leak thanks

i will take more care now you have mentioned this steve Q and now i know my local audi dealer wants £650 for a new one too.ebay around £100 thanks

great hope its successful do you have a link as to where you had it repaired and at what cost thanks

hi all i have an audi a4 avant estate(b8)2011 tdi boot load cover and its been jumping out of its holding when pulling the cover towards me.the 2 pegs on the left(see pic 1 ) sits tight in place but the 2 to the right(pic 2) were not protruding far enough out.so i wd 40d the 2 pegs, and the catch. and after 10 minutes the pegs have worked their way out, far enough to now stay in place though i do have to push down and pull to the left and then let go for the boot load cover to stay in place.not sure for how long but its been 2 weeks now and have given the boot load cover a few pulls in that time and it has stayed in place.i guess its ware.and yes its had a clean lol.hope it helps someone with the same issue

Thanks gregg.Its thanks to people on forums like this one and youtube.Anything to save on garage bills too lol.having said that as in my reply to stevey Y above i wont touch the timing belt etc too risky😉😁

i fully understand what your saying steve.its always good to know as i need reliability and the audi has been a good car it starts and stops in all weathers and its only £30 tax for the year and my insurance is good too.😁thanks regards steve

thanks for the prompt reply steve thats a relief then.i had it in my mind that the arrow should be in the middle.i watch too many youtube videos making me paranoid. the timing according to the bills was 60,000 miles ago.oh no i'me not going there. a garage job.thanks steve

lol i know that feeling too with the credit card its convincing them that these things have to be done if they want you to be their taxi service.yes i would definately be able to do it quicker. 6 years time is a nice feeling though.what do you or anyone think about pic 32 timing.i thought the arrow had to be in the middle or am i been a neanderthal.thanks steve and others for been so helpful on this forum

All done .Been an amateur it took a few hours to do.In the end i decided to remove the bumper and bring the front end forward a few inches to make it easier to change the pulleys and auxillary belt.It started off well but hit a couple of snags along the way.i had to lean right over to be able to see the hidden bolt at the back of the alternator which when undone realeases the pulley tensioner.and as in one of the pics(33) i had to keep swapping the 13mm spanners overs every time i made a slight turn on the bolt.so i would suggest to anyone who wants to have a go undo that bolt first before moving the front end forward but still a back acher(its a learning process)Also as steve mentioned about the alternator clutch pulley been a fruitless job as even with the two special tools(see pic 1) and all my strength i could not remove it.As for the the idle pulley that was easy enough to remove i believe i used a torx t50.i looked on youtube beforehand to put the belt on and realised after an hour of trying that you need to end up at the idle pulley(forget the one on youtube).A tip from steve do not remove the pin from the tensioner pulley until your certain the belt is sitting in its grooves and around the pulleys properly otherwise it sound like it would be hard to get the belt back on....What a job i had trying to get the pin out.(pic 34 circled)i thought it was a straight pin OH NO I realised after a while that the pin had a dog leg in it.so had to hacksaw it of which is very close to the belt.I found the drain plug(see pic)handy just need to turn it backwards a couple of turns(a bit stiff) with of course a bowl underneath. loosen the antifreeze cap once you have drained the Anti freeze you need to lift the clip up thats on the pipe with a screwdriver(see pic)and then pull and tug but watch your knuckles(experience lol) to remove the pipe..then press the clip back down and when its time to put the pipe back it just clips into place dont forget to close the drain plugAnd of course once all back together i topped up with the pink stuff and checked for leaks(all good)..Doing the job on my own i used a tie to hold the bumper up while undoing both fog light connectors.another tip undo the antifreeze container(just two nuts)as the pipe becomes tight otherwise when pulling the front end forward.you only need to remove the big undertray leave the smaller one in thats at the very front.magnetic tray comes in handy.Overall very happy.thanks all and thanks steve for the tips.😁 pic 1 showing parts i bought(your choice)please ignore double picture.no pink anti freeze showing.removed engine cover and timing belt cover.loosened wheel nuts jacked car up.put two axle stands under the car.removed large undertray removed 2 torx bolts either side of wheel arches peeled them back removed what can be seen in pic 8/9/10 peeled back(tugged carefully) both top corners of bumper.tied the bumper up then pulled backwards and removed bumper out of the way removed connector pic 12 then used pincers to remove plastic holder and undo nut that holds the horn on pic 13.same on the other side. pic 14/15/16 remove crash bar.(2 long bolts either side) plus 6 large bolts(3 either side of bumper one slightly tight above a air con pipe.you will then need a lump hammer to knock the bar out.pic 17 barrier removed.remove pipes pic 18/19.pic 20 drain antifreeze(with cap off) lift clip up on end of pipe.push clip back down one drained and close drain plug.then remove antifreeze container away from bulkhead (2 nuts)to avoid stretching pipe.pic 21 remove 3 torx bolts that holds the bonnet catch in place.pic 22 is part of the bonnet catch be careful to undo. i left in place with a stretch once front end is moved forward.pic 23 leave these 2 torx bolts(one at either side until you find something ready to support the front end underneath once you've undo them and moved the front end forward.pic 24 if you have not removed the tensioner then you can do that now,as long as the nut that holds it in has been removed from the back of the alternator(pic26....pic 25 remove idle pulley with a torx t40?.pic 27 is showing the alternator clutch pulley 2 special tools are needed(see pic 1 showing tools)my tools were ebay item no 33383381371828.(M10 XZN) PLEASE NOTE there are 2 different type from this seller you may need item no332579926956 instead...you will need to check the centre of the clutch pulley to see if it is a six or in my case a 12 torx... pic 28 check belt is same size.pic 29 showing how belt goes.pic 30 showing the shape of the pin in the tensioner pulley again do not remove the pin until belt in its proper place.i thought the pin was straight.no mention of it been that shape on youtube.pic 31 just a spare pic of what this area looks like...... pic 32(circled does not seem right to me on timing. will it be ok.everything is reversal of removal.a bit fiddly putting the bumper front back to line it all up.just be careful when inserting the top right and left corners back.put them in place once the framework is flush with the headlights etc.thanks again all hope it helps.i am only an amateur and expect crititism so i am thick skinned lol😁 total cost for parts £189 euro car parts including pink antifreeze from audi.(dont buy it from elswhere this is good quality thick antifreeze. (pic 35/36)

blimey steve hope you dont have to do that for a while. will keep at it with some pics over the next few days as having to do other things too thanks

Had a go today.finding it very difficult to do. theres no room to mark things up or take things off.any advice please ive seen someone take the bumper etc and move the framework forward just enough to get to the belt and pulleys seems a lot of work and doing this job on my own wont be easy.But willing to do whatever it takes to do the job.thanks all

hi steve,thank you for all the information and tips, thats just the kind of info i needed. i will give that a go in the next few days i love the neanderthal strength.i cannot work out how to change my profile name to my real name(steve) thats why i am called neanderthal lets hope thats not an omen 😁cheers for now steve

Hi all, i have a audi a4 avant estate 2.0 tdi i was told by europarts i have a cjc engine ?...receipts show timing was done 60,000 miles ago,but no receipt to say the auxillary/serpentine belt had been done.so i have decided to change the belt/idler/tensioner/alternator pulley.looking down at the belt it looks very tight in there.Any tips on what would be the best procedure to tackle this.also i cannot get a camera in between the fan and the belt to take pictures of which way the belt goes round thanks.ps last garage nearly killed my engine hence wanting to tackle this myself 🙂