alpha omega

hi daniel, welcome. really nice car and nice low miles for its age😃

i tried removing the clutch pulley from the alternator....no chance..... i was thinking of changing it because i changed the other 2 pulleys and aux belt.i havent read all this but is it too much to remove the auxillary belt and then turn the pulley by hand to be certain.but i would be inclined to agree with Covvo that it is that.

hi,i had a garret turbo on my old volvo.(£1000 new) sent it to turbo solutions for repair got a different turbo back and i dont believe anywhere near as good.they said it was an exchange.which i had to accept.so be warned...off the top of my head i believe i had to pay them £360 without fitting

hi louise, i know i have a different audi to yours, but is yours a push in and out button like mine.(see pictures)if yes,do you have any wd40 or similar spray,and spray the part were i have circled it(pic 1) and keep pushing the button in and out while occasionaly spraying it.,and it may eventually come out. (pic 2 showing button in/locked).regards stephen

hi danny, welcome to the forum, great looking car super low miles well worth showing at a meeting unlike mine lol regards stephen

thanks for the tips steve i never knew about the wiring. its understandable with the enviroment.Now i'me going to go round what wiring i can see once i've bought some silicon.👍😀

all sorted steve unplugged it gave it a clean with some electrical cleaner,and made sure the plug clicked in place nice and tight cleared the code took it for a drive all fine.no codes.here are some pics(yes 1 rubber grommit missing) thank you best regards stephen

thats great steve thank you just one thing do you know what the part is called so i can look on ebay and order one if need be thanks

hi stevey Y thanks for your quick reply that sounds good to me i will update sometime tomorrow thanks😁

hi all,i have a code p101600(see pic 1) can someone give me advice of what i need to do to solve this. i have taken 3 other pics of part of the engine.are these the areas i need to tackle(clean out).or does this mean something completely different.i am asking as my miles to the gallon is around 30 and sometimes the car idles roughly.having said this, it does run fine.also i had code p0104(see pic) but removed these items and cleaned the maf sensor and connection plug with electrical cleaner and hair dried them cleared that code..took the car for a run and no code showing for that now.(pic 5 showing maf sensor part no)hope it helps someone. thanks again all

AAAHHH i see thank you for that explantion thats a relief cheers Mwignall2

been busy steve and just seen this post. i am so sorry to here about the sump🤥 regards stephen

hi when i unlock the car only the drivers door unlocks. i have to press the key twice for the other 3 doors to unlock.as in my pic i have the auto locking off i did try auto locking on just in case.i tried the diagnostics and it locked and unlocked the doors.but no faults.so does it look like i will have to strip the 3 doors and give them a good clean as advised by Mwignall2 thanks

just got your message steve Y as been busy thanks for the tip as i managed to start the car within that ten second time frame and then turned the ignition off and back on and it started straight away.took it for a run and its spot on thanks.you cant always go by some youtube videos even though they mean well.

update no need to pump the fuel through😉with the handbrake on and in first gear jack the car up on the drivers side where the 2 jacking points are then put 2 axle stands underneath and remove both the small and the large cover most are 10ml and are them funny plastic plugs which can easily break.theres a couple of plug ones where you have to remove the central plug before removing the outer plug.there is also i think a couple of 10ml nuts too....note where all you remove come from.then remove the bracket that keeps the fuel filter from dropping down.held on by 1 10ml nut.then carefully squeese the back bracket of the filter and move it away from the filter and do the same with the front bracket i then placed a bowl underneath and removed the front pipe from the filter and lifted it upwards to keep as much fuel as possible in place and stuck it between the 2 brake pipes.and did the same with the pipe at the back of the filter.and then tipped the fuel from the old filter into the bowl and then removed the 2 covers from the old filter and put them on the new one(Audi dealer only supplied the bare unit (£35)as they now sell the 2 coverings seperately).....note in my picture the arrow on the filter is pointing towards the front of the car when fitting.i carefully put the back pipe on to the fuel filter and put the clip back in place and same with the front pipe been carefully not to spill much fuel(to make it easier to start the car)....it is a bit tight putting the front clip up to the filter,after doing the back one....then put everything back in reverse order.pics 17/18/19 shows what its like underneath without the plastic covers on.pic 20 shows what can happen over unscrewing the plastic nuts.last pic i was told to remove the pipe and attach a clear pipe to it with a hand pump a bit like mine until the fuel comes through.....please look at steve Q's tip on priming the pump first

hi,thinking of changing the fuel filter on my audi a4 avant estate 2011 tdi cja engine ?.ive looked on youtube but concerned about pumping fuel through with a hand pump.....i bought and used this one (see pic) on my old volvo v40 and it worked ok....i have no problem removing the fuel filter.its the pumping fuel through side.can i use the one in the pic.....has anyone done this job without using diagnostics to pump it through as i dont have one.i know the fuel pump can damage your pump then engine if not done right.i have not rung a garage as i want to save money.but if people think its best to use a garage then fair enough i will leave it.i have the car on ramps at the moment.if i do go ahead i will post pics thanks all

hey i like them steve😁

any update on the oil leak thanks

i will take more care now you have mentioned this steve Q and now i know my local audi dealer wants £650 for a new one too.ebay around £100 thanks

great hope its successful do you have a link as to where you had it repaired and at what cost thanks

hi all i have an audi a4 avant estate(b8)2011 tdi boot load cover and its been jumping out of its holding when pulling the cover towards me.the 2 pegs on the left(see pic 1 ) sits tight in place but the 2 to the right(pic 2) were not protruding far enough out.so i wd 40d the 2 pegs, and the catch. and after 10 minutes the pegs have worked their way out, far enough to now stay in place though i do have to push down and pull to the left and then let go for the boot load cover to stay in place.not sure for how long but its been 2 weeks now and have given the boot load cover a few pulls in that time and it has stayed in place.i guess its ware.and yes its had a clean lol.hope it helps someone with the same issue

Thanks gregg.Its thanks to people on forums like this one and youtube.Anything to save on garage bills too lol.having said that as in my reply to stevey Y above i wont touch the timing belt etc too risky😉😁

i fully understand what your saying steve.its always good to know as i need reliability and the audi has been a good car it starts and stops in all weathers and its only £30 tax for the year and my insurance is good too.😁thanks regards steve

thanks for the prompt reply steve thats a relief then.i had it in my mind that the arrow should be in the middle.i watch too many youtube videos making me paranoid. the timing according to the bills was 60,000 miles ago.oh no i'me not going there. a garage job.thanks steve