Mario T

Hi All, Something that's been bugging me for a while. Would I be right in saying that there are potentially 2 bumper types for a b7 sline cab. 1) has the black inserts and a slight lip at the base of the bumper 2) one has a more rounded bumper that has colour coded rail along the centre where the fog lights sit.? Many Thanks Maz

Right ok - touchwood I've fixed it. Hopefully this may help somebody else. I wasn't prepared to give up and so removed the light again. This time I really looked closely at the seals and was convinced the lense was sealed to the bulb unit. So after further inspection on the rear of the unit I noted some tiny hair line fractures almost went unnoticed. The rear plastic moulding of the light must get brittle. It wasn't just in one place. So I glue gunned all the cracks 3 in total and touchwood the lamp after some reasonable rain hasn't beaded on the inside. Thanks Maz

I'm almost ready to give up..... I've sealed the edges of the light 3 times have taken my time. After the recent heavy rain the water is back. I'm at a loss it can't be my sealing as I really took my time. What am I missing is it getting in the bulb holders. Does anybody have any experience please.? Is there another area I need to look at.? I did my Skoda ones and gave them no where near the same care and they've been fine. If not where is the cheapest to get new ones although I'm not ready to give in quite yet. Many Thanks Again Mario

Hi There, I recently viewed an A5 convertible that needs a few things. Amongst these when I viewed were 2 noticeable wear marks that happened in the same place around 2 inches from the rear window. It's annoying as the rest of the roof is basically spot on. I have added some photos. It's only the canvas and I'm not convinced it's even through to the rubber shell. Does anybody know if you can spot/patch repair areas and does anybody have any experience of this.? Is it a common fail place and would anybody know why it's done it.?. Your help would be much appreciated. Many Thanks Mario

HI All, It's getting towards those 3 days of the year when I may be able to let the roof down. Over the Easter weekend, I decided to clean and restore the roof. Would anybody know whether it is ok to apply Fabsil over the top of the Autoglym sealer I have just used today.? TBF I kinda messed up the Autoglym as I applied the sealer to a just damp roof. I think the way Autoglym works is it requires the water still on the roof and reacts and spreads with the water. Anyway Fabsil works differently and requires a totally dry roof. So I was thinking of brushing on Fabsil tomorrow as an additional coat to the Autoglym sealer. As always your help is much appreciated.

Thanks Steve is it easy to get the code form VCDS.?

Hi There, I've just bought a new xtron radio but before I change it could I check whether there is a radio code required from the original radio.? I know on my Skoda providing I fit the radio that came with the car there isn't.??? If there is code can I get this from VCDS before I swap it out.?.? Thankyou

Yeah I think that's a job for this weekend. I'll buy some good mastic and spend a morning getting it right. I just can't see where water would be getting in.

Hi Magnet, it's a good point. I will remove and dry out this week. Is there any known water ingress areas on this cluster type.? Thanks

Hi All, Another problem to solve. After many days of rain and dampness outside I've noticed that NSR light has water beads internally. Clearly, there is water getting and I wondered if anybody had a fix for this.? I removed the light recently, cut an old innertube into large washers, and replaced the light bulbs. TBF if anything it's got worse...... I did run a bead of mastic around the outer groove of the lens but I suspect it hasn't set very well due to the weather. Is there any goto trick that anybody has out there or am I chasing shadows with this attempted fix. As always your help is greatly appreciated.

Hi Steve, I got it working. Within the door card there is the main wire that connects everything. I did read something on this earlier. Something to bear in mind as I'll definitely take it with me. The plug has that up and over type lever that pulls the plug into the body of the module. I did this and clipped it in. However after wobbling it the passenger window worked I wobbled again and I felt it 'seat' I tried the drivers window and it worked. Literally didn't do anything else. Scary really as I was about to buy one of everything. It must have been where I kept unclipping it to lower the window to adjust. I realised today I didn't need to do that as there are 2 access holes cut in the door when the window is fully up. You can do all your adjusting here without the door card even attached. Just close the door let the window lift and gauge the height. If only I'd known that yesterday I'd have been finished yesterday and probably not excessively connected and disconnected the plug.

I was going to drive the car up the road to put a bit of charge back in the battery do you think this will be ok without the door card connected which of course includes the window switches.?

Crikey - If this works I'll owe you a beer lol.

I've just read about the remote key fob module that you can buy and this connects to the driver's module so assuming this module does more than the others. I'm now starting to worry that the roof won't work either.? Surely if it was working it can't be that severe.?

Hi Both Thankyou for your replies. Can I just check if the motor had gone would this prevent me opening other windows in the car.? Just that I went over to the passenger side and used the passenger window button; the window worked just fine. The drivers side button cluster nothing works I cant open the rear or passenger window.? Could I ask what yo mean by the reset please.? Is that for the 'one touch' closing.? - sorry I don't know of any other reset. I will try the fuses in a while but the owners manual doesn't offer an obvious fuse that works for the drivers window. Would you know the description or no. of that fuse. Its so frustrating i was all pleased with myself for getting this far and then this has happened. I was just prepping to packing up and finish my window adjusting this morning.

Hi All, After 'having to' swap my window actuator today on the driver's side all was well. I've done the hard part all in and working. During the adjustment stage, I needed to connect and disconnect the card/switched and then closed the door so that I could see the glass lift and align it to the roof as they are frameless. This element was fine then all of a sudden the window wouldn't go up and down anymore. I tried a different window from the switch and this too didn't work. In fact, none of the windows operate from this driver's switch. I walked around to the passenger side and this window works perfectly using the passenger switch. Does anybody have any ideas.? Is there a fuse somewhere? Your help is appreciated as I can't shut the window and it's winter....

Hi There, A set of wheels has come up but they may be ET36 - Is this getting toward the limit on rubbing? The Cab does seem quite low not lowered. I do seem to recall that S lines have always 'wrapped' around the wheel's arches which has always looked good IMO. Thankyou

Just another thought; do all A4 B7's have the glove box that locks on the central locking would anybody know. This would widen my options for a second hand one. Many Thanks

Hi All, I wondered if anybody has a fix for the glovebox on my A4 Cab. When you lock unlock, there is loud noise similar to an impact driver on lock unlock. It's intermittent at the moment but doesn't lock the glovebox either. On further inspection, the arm that goes across to the solenoid closure is not attached anymore. To make things worse the solenoid is not accessible I don't think. Is there a fix for this would anybody know.? Is there a Dremel cut in the type of fix? I'm even happy to just disconnect the thing as the glovebox still locks manually.? Also, do all A4 B7s have the locking glovebox, or are I right in it is for cabs only? I ask as replacing the glovebox may be an option. As always, your help is much appreciated. I'm fixing a heater diverter motor, so I know it's not one of those. Many thanks, All.

True I've always liked the lemann style but yes I may have a look at others

Thanks Rob hopefully not sold. I'm torn between the fat spokes and the twin spokes on the last edition cab.

Do you think it get away with an et of 39.?

Hi There, I wondered if anybody could help confirm the et of the last edition lemanns wheels please. I have standard s line alloys which are et 43. I was wondering if the lemanns A4 wheels are et 34.? Many thanks Maz

Hi All, Another problem that's been plaguing me. I have 2 keys that were supplied with my car. One works perfectly with no issue. The second one doesnt seem to work as a remote. It will happily manually open the car and it will start the car no problem. Having opened up the key a microchip fell out which was once soldered to the PCB board and so it's clearly the circuit board. On the grounds that the key works so the real complex programming with the immobiliser bit works could I just buy a replaent PCB that I can programme using the key turning method etc. I've checked the part no. On the key as 8e0 837 220 0. I think the 0 is a 0 at the end. It also says 433mhz. Anybody else done or attempted to fix..? There's lots of circuit boards around so just wondered many thanks...