daveyboy1967

Could you post some more pics from other angles please Tom.

I think sometimes you have to get a fascia adaptor to get a good fit. I'm hunting one for a 2003 A6 as I really fancy a modern head unit but don't want it to look like it was fitted by a five year old. How are you finding the head unit, are they as good as they look?

Any good? HEIZUNGSGEBLÄSE GEBLÄSEMOTOR INNENRAUMGEBLÄSE MAXGEAR 57-0010 A FÜR AUDI 100 | eBay UK

I think we can definitely say my EGR valve has been deleted, and it's so obvious now that it's funny. I've been intending for quite a while to try to find a missing fixing trim for my engine cover as shown below. However it now turns out that what I was missing was an EGR valve! Taxi for Dave please!

I didn't have time to strip things down and check yesterday as I'm working nights for a couple of shifts now. Now I know what I'm looking for though I should be able to tell if the EGR valve is missing a pipe without too much faffing about.

After a lot of research tonight I'm thinking someone in the past has deleted the EGR valve, anyone able to confirm this may be the case?

I forgot to say, it obviously looks like it's been deliberately blanked off by someone other than Audi but what is it and what purpose would blanking it off serve? I'm a little concerned I may be causing damage to the engine in the long term running it like this thanks to someone's half assed repair/mod.

I was having a nose around under the bonnet earlier and found a loose pipe (photos attached). I have no idea what it is or where it goes, it's got a braded cover and is situated near the turbo pipework. Can anybody help identifying this please? The car is running completely normally by the way. Thanks in advance, Dave

You can't beat a squirt or two of WD40 mate, well done!

By the way, regarding repair costs the clutch was replaced on my A6 four years ago before I bought the car. The clutch kit was just shy of £600, and 5 hours of labour. Hope that helps mate.

I would be very wary of using this garage in the future, that's a new one on me. I don't understand why he wouldn't have inspected the clutch when he checked the flywheel? Definitely sounds like clutch to me. I hope you don't mind me asking, and please don't take this the wrong way but have you been driving long? I'm only asking because I was wondering if you would recognise when a clutch needed replacing as all the clues seem to be pointing that way.

Also Andrew while you have the old lock out of your car have a look at the connector and count how many pins there are as this will help when ordering a replacement (some sites refer to them as poles).

Hi Clifford, yes, I totally support what you're saying about environmental issues regarding releasing refrigerant into the atmosphere and wouldn't contemplate it if that was involved. It seems these kits only replace the gas lost over time through evaporation rather than purging the system of old gas. Also the kit comes with pipework, connectors, and a gauge to ensure the correct pressure is reached (I'll add a pic as an example). That said though I have the same sort of concerns as you, and also whether these kits are actually effective or just a waste of money as I don't always trust the reviews on seller's pages to be 100% genuine so I was wondering if any other members had tried one before.

This may be the one you need? FRONT LEFT DOOR LOCK ACTUATOR MECHANISM FOR AUDI A3 8P, A6 C6, A8 4E 8E2837015AA | eBay

I didn't know until earlier that kits were available to recharge/regas your car's air conditioning at home. Just wondering if anyone has any experience with these kits and if they would recommend them?

I've replaced one lock actuator on my '03 A6 and have another one to replace. I got them on Amazon from a company called Frankberg for about £25 each, made in China but the quality seems fine and the one I've fitted is working perfectly. They're available on ebay too for similar money, I only used Amazon because the delivery was quicker and I was in a rush. Just enter your car details and you should get the right part, and the fact you now know what you're looking for in terms of connector type should make things easier. Hope this helps mate.

This would be a good first step, it would at least let you know if you're heading in the right direction or just chasing shadows. Parasitic drains can be really hard to trace but I've read a couple of good guides that helped me in the past, if I can find them again I'll post the links here, good luck.

He would see a voltage drop with the ignition energised but with the engine not running when compared to an at rest reading.

I'm pretty sure he means running Gareth.

It could be something as simple as a loose belt, you're getting some output from your alternator as the voltage is higher with the engine running than when turned off, but it's nowhere near enough. You should definitely get it checked by a decent mechanic before you end up ruining what could be a perfectly decent battery.

Just for reference Martin, mine just now with engine running.

By the time you've started, lifted the bonnet and checked the voltage you should see that voltage, pretty much as soon as the alternator is spinning.

I would expect to see somewhere around 14.4V at the battery with the engine running. It sounds like this could be an alternator problem rather than the battery.

Sorry mate, forgot to update this. Yes, the front actuator sorted the issues I was having with the front NS and as it was so cheap and a straightforward job I've got one for the rear NS too (not fitted yet) in the hope of sorting out a couple of issues with the rear interior lighting and an intermittent fault with the auto locking when you hit 15mph or so. I'll let you know if that solves it once I've fitted it.

That's a great idea, I hadn't thought of that at all. Sounds like the best solution to me, thanks Steve, good thinking mate.