
Rybrook
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Everything posted by Rybrook
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Hi I got a bit muddled, main failure is EPC. If you just have ESP it's a fault with the traction control and ABS. If it ESP then it could be a sensor at the wheels but you have both lights on the dash, it could be a faulty brake light switch on the pedal.
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You need to run a switched live from the fusebox to the aftermarket wiring loom, the standard radio wiring doesn't have the switched 12 volts to turn on when you turn the ignition on. As for the esp fault, Its a main control failure I think. Quite possibly a shorted wire when pulling the radio out.
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When you remove the glove box, the is a cable connected near the footwell light, has 5 wires I think, this connects the footwell, glovebox and this
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My 3.2 dsg is a little jerky at about 2krpm, like it's going to stall by over fuelling, the mk5 r32s also have this.
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You need to get a loom converter, no cutting of wires at all. I have a non Bose concert and fitted a pioneer MVH-S240DAB. Only thing added was a powered dab antenna, the kit came with a patch lead to enable the use of the rear speakers and subwoofer.
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Yes it's the multi plug on the glove box, I had this just the other day, I was messing about with my head unit, while I had the glove box removed the light on the dash and in the binnacle were illuminated, the glove box had the passenger activation key switch inside. Switch off when connecting it back up
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Least yours is easy, my dsg has 2 drain plugs, strange I know.
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Does the end of the thread have a hex/ torx or triple square like the lower balljoint?
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The balljoint should have a taper, when it's done up it should pull it's self tight and lock. You can use a jack on the bottom of the track rod to add extra pressure to help tighten it and stop it spinning.
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You'd need to get a Bose to iso wiring loom adapter. Also have to run a switched live from the fuse box to the new adapter, to have it turn on when you turn the key.
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Is it a hatch or estate? Is there water still in the unit? You could possibly fix it but cleaning up the brass contacts in the connector. I had a similar problem with the number plate lights, there was a small amount of verdigris that was enough to break continuity.
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Have you had the HPFP checked? This can lead to over fueling but the injectors should be able to cope. The fuel return line coul be at fault also
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Possible fault in Instrumentation Control Cluster
Rybrook replied to HeatherG's topic in Audi A3 (8P) Forum
There is a consumer delay of about 15-20 minutes, from when you turn off the ignition or unlock the doors. You can see this by either opening the boot and watching the light turn off or removing the key after a journey and waiting for the interior cabin lights to turn off. I have a broken light in the glove box, the switch broke and the lamp eventually burnt out, this caused a parasitic drain till it broke. Only noticed when I swapped the concert radio for a new unit. -
Plus 1, if you do want to still fit the bumper, you will need the bonnet, front wings, headlights and wing mirrors for the side repeaters unless you have them already.
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My A3 actually does this, but I know it's been abused and not been looked after, (it's 9 owner village bike) The dq250 in the Passat is flawless but again it's the 6 speed wet clutch. Does the car roll back when facing uphill?
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I can't really comment on the tfsi as I have a 3.2 vr6. With mine it's secondary air injection to warm the cats, I get raised idle and slightly more vibration. If it behaves with the maf disconnected then there is a problem with it.
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If I might, this is similar to my Passat well the engine I have a CRLB 148hp so a 35 in Audi language. I have the 6 speed dq250. So not the same but the final drive should be. What mode are you driving in? I find it's not a rapid thing TBH, it will happily overtake a couple of cars quite easily on the motorway. When you say stutter into reverse, is that when you select R and it hesitate before you move?
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Is that not normal for a cold start? My 3.2 has a lumpy raised idle of first cold start. I don't move off until the revs drop down.
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Today I fitted the sound pipe from a MK2 TT 3.2. I had to shave the mounting brackets off the main pipe because of the A3 not having the same size bay. Now it sounds like having TB's but in the cabin. Might not be for some but if you have a standard vr6 with no mods it makes it slightly throatier.
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There is a shaped lip in the seat of the shock, I've built them with the oval end down in the shock and the bearing on the flatter round end facing up. I actually replaced the front shocks on my Passat this morning, and indeed it's upside down with the flat round end upward to seat against the bearing.
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The 100w bulbs will either melt the wires or the bulb itself will melt the housing. They are for off road only and are not e marked to use safely on the road. I did this years ago in my MK4 astra, had to replace the bulb holders. TBH if no one has replied then they either don't know or haven't tried,
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Hi guys, Getting ready to replace the front knuckles, struts and was wondering which way up the coils go. I watched two YouTubes, remove and replace that say the oval shaped end sits in the shock seat and the round end up top that nicely fits the bearing. (This way the stamped KYB and code is upside down) I watched a couple of Mk5/6/7 golf vids also from autodoc and they have the oval end up with the bearing and round in the shock seat. (The stamps are correct) Then looking at pictures of removed shocks from scrapers, the oval end is up top difficult to see fully but you can make out the round bearing and an elongated end of the coil. This has me stumped, can anyone enlighten me please?
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You need to get the non Bose loom, this will allow the head unit to activate the amp in the sub and you get rear speakers working too.
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- audi a3 8p
- radio
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Best thing to do is get a sniffer for the coolant header tank, it will detect any exhaust gases in the coolant. I once bought a Volvo 850 that a bubbly dipstick tube, I changed the oil pcv pipes and it never showed up again. It could just be the short runs that are being done.
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As a follow up, I have replaced the OSF shaft with an Apec, also replaced the NSF outer CV and kept original shaft. The bolts on the output flange on the NSF all sheared off and nearly ruined the car, luckily I wasn't on the motorway, had just moved off on a slightly busy roundabout. Took a day to do