Mark M.

I sprayed the bolt, heated for 5 mins, tried to move the bolt and then repeated until I could see the nut end of the bolt move as I turned the head of the bolt. Obvious I know but very important that if the head of the bolt moves but not the nut end, stop. Then used the impact wrench to speed things up a bit. Spent around an hour on each side in total from what I remember.

Using the narrow rectangular fitment on the gun made it incredibly focussed which is what I needed. If I had been replacing the arms then you could go gung-ho with a flame as there's not really anything you can damage if you concentrate the heat on the bolt.

Depending on how aggressive you want to be, you could get another MOT station to do an emissions check to test their MOT's legitimacy and possibly report them for a fraudulent one. But regardless of that option, I'd still be chasing them to replace the cat's with known good ones.

It is a pinch bolt, and it is a pig to remove as it's a steel bolt in an aluminium upright so the corrosion is bad. I had a quote from a local garage to to replace those arms and it was about £1700 and not OEM parts. In the end, I used https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/396075675406 and an electric heat gun (paint stripper) set to around 600deg and a six sided socket on a long bar. Took some time but using the penetrant and heat together and gently wiggling the bolt head back and forth eventually got it to move. I then whacked on an impact wrench until the bolt was free spinning and was able to tap it out. Using the electric heat gun https://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-ehg2000-2000w-electric-heat-gun-240v/576kj I was able to focus all the heat into the bolt and not damage the ball joints, which was my main aim as I then pressed out the bushes and fitted some powerflex polybushes.

I'm the opposite thanks to the wifes Enyaq. Creeping along in traffic and the car decides you're actually trying to park so it turns on the parking sensors.... which wouldn't be so bad if, due to the nature of a traffic jam, you weren't so close to cars that the collision avoidance then kicks in and just slams on the brakes for you.

If it was me, I'd be wanting them to replace the cat's at their expense. Although the gutted CAT's may pass a visual inspection I feel an MOT emissions test will probably fail

The 8R is just the model code, or chassis code. The 2nd generation Q5 are FY and the current Q5's are 80A The only visual difference would be the SQ5 trimming like the round gear knob vs the T style knob on the Q5

99% certain you have the 7-speed s-tronic gearbox, the 8-speed tiptronic was used in the SQ5 QUR is your gearbox code CTBA is your engine code LZ7G is your paint code N5W FZ is your interior type and colour codes All the other codes relate to your factory build spec and can be decoded at sites like - https://www.oemvwshop.com/pr-code-decoder/

I believe its a VGT turbo, or a Variable Geometry Turbo, also known as a variable vane turbo. There is an electronic control module that adjusts the exhaust turbine blades which means when the vanes are closed you get rapid spool up at low RPM, the vanes then open as RPM increases to provide more boost.

That's the same one I use on my 3.0TDi - https://www.lasertools.co.uk/Product/4807/Oil-Gauge-Dipstick-for-Audi equivalent to the OEM T40178 one.

From what I remember, I connected my phones Bluetooth and Wi-Fi to the carplay unit and that was it, my unit never had an external mic. I think the way the manual describes it, your phone is connecting to the MMi then being piggybacked to the carplay unit. As I was using Android Auto for music, calls and messaging (not any of the cars built in Bluetooth features, or it's voice control) there was no need for me to do it that way. Have you tried it with the "use Car BT Channel" switched off?

My 2015 Q5 came with a CD/DVD in the documents wallet that has the handbook on it, I inserted it and it was "installed" on the MMI.

I have Heko's on mine (and on my previous Mondeo and the wife's Enyaq) and they've all fitted really well and not caused any issues with windows closing. I would say that on the Enyaq they have increased wind noise but only marginally. With the Mondeo and Q5 they probably have as well but not enough to have been heard over the engine. Personally, I think they provided a nice aesthetic boost to all 3 of our cars though.

My earlier reply about not being able to have Sunroof, towbar and sidesteps came from these threads.... https://www.myaudiq5.com/threads/panoramic-roof.18513/ https://www.myaudiq5.com/threads/running-boards-side-steps.2782/ General gist was the weight of the towbar and sidesteps added on top of the sunroof weight pushed the car over it's permitted weight limit. But this was based on the Mk1 and Mk1 Facelift Q5.

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The camera I got and the instructions for it didn't match (totally different colour wires) so I ended up having to try different combinations to get the image how I wanted it. Fairly certain I turned OFF the reversing lines built into the camera though as the carplay unit displays dynamic reversing lines itself.

Just remembered, I did have a problem with the rear camera. It's voltage range was very limited, so it worked with the engine off but as soon as the engine was running the alternator was pushing the voltage up to high for the camera to cope and it would shut down. I ended up fitting a voltage regulator between the reversing lights and the camera to keep the voltage low enough.

That's pretty much exactly what I put in my Q5, carplay unit and camera. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001100606264.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.172.16c018027OZuyF https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007387471729.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.167.16c018027OZuyF https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005604388149.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.152.16c018027OZuyF But like you say, they're probably all the same with a different branding on it. The carplay unit was really easy to intall, just unplug the cables from the screen and climate control units and plug in the new carplay harness between the car loom and the screen and climate controls. Camera was a little harder having to run the RCA cable from the boot lid but it just tucked under most of the trim. Once all fitted it worked straight away, no calibrations or coding required. Seller did email me an up to date firmware as well. I also fitted a front camera which would show after selecting Drive after Reversing, or by holding down the "back up" button on the centre console controls. I'd still have it fitted now but I missed a touchscreen so replaced it with this - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007550883275.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.56.16c018027OZuyF

Which carplay unit are you looking at fitting? I fitted one from AliExpress to my Q5 when I first got it. The reversing camera just connected into the carplay unit and the carplay unit displayed everything on the cars oem screen, including all the reversing lines, and worked really well without any need for calibrations or VCDS coding.

Wierdly, checks I've done show it as a 1999 model A6 2.5Tdi, first registered Jan 1st 2003 and 161bhp (though vindecoderz.com says it's 150bhp) Concerningly it also shows the car loosing 25,000miles between 8th July 2010 and 13th September 2011

Don't think wobble bolts would work as I think you have too much of a change (5x100 to 5x112), thought they're only good for about 2mm variance so a 5x98 to 5x100 for example.

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Gave mine a bit of a clean up so thought I'd share a pic of how she's looking after a year in my hands. Think I've finished all the modifying and retrofitting for now so just enjoying the driving.

Are the sensors turned on when your approaching the wall? They only activate when you put the car in reverse or if you push the button to turn them on, then they should stay active until your forward speed is over 4mph(ish)

febi bilstein 48801 Pressure Reservoir for vaccum system