FrenchAvant

There was only one key for my 1996 A4 B5 when I bought it, as the previous owner was deceased, and I bought from his heirs. Audi here in France quoted me a very high figure for more keys, I think it was over €300, but I found a specialist who cut and coded two keys for €50 each. There was no code available for them via the diagnostic system, as my car predates codes being stored in the ECU. He was able to read the code directly from the old key and reproduce the keys and chips on his rather clever machine. If you contact a car locksmith you may be able to get keys made rather cheaper than from Audi.

Sorry, Naomi, I haven't been on here for a couple of weeks, so didn't see your post. In2 is a notification that Supplementary work is due on the car. These are serrvice items in addition to the 12 month/10,000 mile and the 24 month/20,000 mile services, falling due at longer intervals than these Services. Details are in the car's Maintenance Record booklet, and can also be found in the Haynes Manual for the A4, although this does not cover the 2.6 engine. You can also find details of the services and intervals online. Other notifications are OEL - Intermediate Service, mainly oil and filter change - every 10,000 miles, and In1 - Maintenance Service - every 20,000 miles. The mileages may be different for your car, those quoted are for 1996 A4 (B5) 1.8 Turbo.

Sems the links don't work once an item is sold. To make a search, click on "OFFRES" (offers) at the top, put "interieure audi a4 b5" in the search box, choose "Equipment Auto" category, and "Tout la France" for the search area, and go :) EDIT: Not many left this week! There were at least 4 or 5 complete leather interiors when I posted.

If you can manage the French, there are usually plenty of leather interiors for sale on Leboncoin in France. This is a search you can use https://www.leboncoin.fr/equipement_auto/offres/languedoc_roussillon/occasions/?th=1&q=interieur pour audi a4 b5&parrot=0 Searches on the site usually turn up quite a few spurious results, so you have to pick through them, but this came up near the top https://www.leboncoin.fr/equipement_auto/1135936718.htm?ca=13_s

Are you using the same tyre pressures as with the Pirellis?

I just saw your other post on your alternator. When your alternator was replaced maybe the DFM was not connected. Suggest you reconnect the DFM pin if appropriate.

The pin which is connected (light blue wire) is for the warning light ("L" connection) The other terminal is not used on your car. It is for the Digital Field Monitor, which connects to the ECU on some vehicles and provides information on the alternator load. For more information Google "regulator terminal guide"

It could be one of the bolts holding the front bumper mounting tubes and the lock carrier, or a service tool (300 mm bolt) used to temporarily support the lock carrier after the mounting tubes have been removed and it is moved forward. See Haynes Chap 11.7 or Bentley Manual. Edit: You will have to remove the front bumper to verify the above.

Did you look at the pdf for which I sent the link above?

Seems the TFSI engine has 3 chain drives. byt_bzb_1_8_tsfi_eng.pdf

It does seem to be the same company. If you click on the "CONTACT US" link at the bottom RHS the main workshop address in Greenwich is given.

I had the PS rack on my LHD 1986 VW T25 camper van rebuilt by this company in 2003. http://www.power-steering.co.uk/ It is still going strong 100,000 km later, and I am very careful to replace the gaiters to keep out dirt and moisture. I could not find an exchange rack, nor anyone to repair mine in France for a reasonable price. PSS didn't have a LHD rack for exchange, so I sent mine to them. I presume this is the same company, the website and phone number are the same, but they were based in Greenwich, London, when I used them.

Ist letter - Country of manufacture. W is Germany, as already stated. 2nd letter - Manufacturer. A is Audi 3rd letter - Vehicle type. U is passenger vehicle. All Audi passenger vehicles should therefore start with WAU as your dealer stated. Is the number the same in all the places it appears - engine bay, spare wheel well, service record booklet, registration document (V5C) etc.?

I think I sorted it. There is a stop for maximum accelerator pedal movement, this being a square rubber block mounted on the support for the brake pedal assembly. The block has two positions, one for manual and the other for automatic gearboxes. It has to be turned on its support so that the appropriate letters are visible - 'H' or 'HS' for manual and 'A' or 'AG' for auto. For automatics, like mine, with the pedal pushed down against the stop, the U-shaped clip at the throttle valve end of the cable has to be positioned in one of the grooves in the outer cable so that the kickdown switch closes just before the full throttle position is reached. This is to make sure that the kickdown switch calls for a downward gearchange when the pedal is pushed down almost to the limit. I connected a meter between the switch contacts so I could see when the switch opened and closed, but the switch operation can be felt through the pedal, and there is also an audible click when it opens. The weight of the pedal itself is sufficient to remove slack from the cable when the pedal is released.

I've had the Bentley Manual for my VW T25 camper van for years, and it is invaluable, so I was surprised and pleased to see on the list inside it that they do paper ones for Audis, including early A4. Electronic versions of the manuals are also available, and for more models. I also have the Haynes, which is handy and better explained, but the Bentley is much more comprehensive, although it is only really extracts from the factory workshop manual. Thanks for the link. Curious that different sources seem to give different descriptions for the same fault code. I think all my faults may originate from the battery being flat, but when invesitigating the cable I have found something not found electronically. The problem I see is that, as there are no limits set for throttle pedal travel, the cable is being stretched when the throttle body quadrant reaches its stop, this is also straining the plastic quadrant, and there is a huge amount of slack in the cable with the pedal released. I've been too busy with other things, but may get the throttle cable sorted today or tomorrow.