
Magnet
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Everything posted by Magnet
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What did you order after? Kind regards, Gareth.
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Hello Leanne, Thanks for being in touch and sorry to hear of your issue. Sounds like battery failure/below par. Can we take it the battery is the original? If so, it would make sense in terms of service life with use if the stop/start system. If it were mine and the battery is the original, I would simply order a direct replacement from on-line suppliers such as Tayna, Battery Megastore etc ( there are more - and no connection) - it should be with you tomorrow. I only buy Varta/Bosch in their 5 year warranty grade (silver topped). It is almost certain that the new battery will need to be coded to the car. Kind regards, Gareth.
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Hello Michael, My gut feeling is that it was originally on the inside of the fuel flap. Does this look as if it might have been changed ar some time? Probably worth keeping an eye out for a similar model year and asking the owner if you can take a photo of the detail on theirs. Kind regards, Gareth.
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Edited for you Stewart. Kind regards, Gareth.
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Hello Stewart, Thanks for letting us know. Personally, I would not be listing my e-mail address on an open forum, in preference to asking interested parties to simply send you a message on the forum. You should be able to edit it out. If not, let us know. Kind regards, Gareth.
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As Cliff suggests. If not, try 30 psi front and 29psi rear until you find the specified figures - at your Audi dealer. Kind regards, Gareth.
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Many thanks Ian. OK, Halfords tests the battery as serviceable, and I’m not sure about their current equipment, but it may not be good enough to test all the parameters of the battery’s serviceability. For example - I have known a just over 3 year old Range Rover battery to test serviceable on 2 ‘normal’ battery tests, yet when tested on the proper RR system it was shown to be unacceptably below par on cold cranking current. We renewed the battery, and all has been well. Obviously, the battery condition monitor was picking up that fact, whereas the ‘normal’ test wasn’t. Way forward:- might be worth getting an Audi independent to check it out on their sophisticated systems. If they confirm the battery is indeed serviceable, then they will be able to diagnose the fault/s at the same time. Re shock absorbers? Guess Halfords reasonable quote was for fitting whatever Brand X shock absorbers are current available from their local motor factors. Quality will be as important as overall cost, so worth checking what your local garage intends fitting. If not genuine VAG, then Bilstein could be a suitable aftermarket alternative, but I would be asking what brand will be fitted. Beware of vague descriptions such as OE or OEM! Kind regards, Gareth.
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Fortunately I’m not in your position Natalie, but I wouldn’t want it back for a pension, based on - would I want the constant worry and stress?? Of course, that just my opinion. Others may think differently. Kind regards, Gareth.
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Hello Michael, Thanks for being in touch with the forum. Great move to be interested in checking tyre pressures - sometimes an afterthought. Try inside the fuel filler flap. Usually is - or certainly was - there. Kind regards, Gareth.
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Thanks Natalie, I understand that it would be of background information to know if anyone else has experienced this, but in reality it doesn’t matter, since this is affecting you, and your safety, and that’s all that is important. Kind regards, Gareth.
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Hello Ian, My first port of call too with regard to the ‘Christmas tree’ dashboard lights would be exactly as Steve advises. In order to give the battery a realistic test, I would suggest you take the car on at least a 10 mile run before subjecting it to a test. If it proves to be suspect, then would I buy a replacement at Halfords? Um! I don’t, but obviously your call Ian. I alway buy batteries on-line from specialist suppliers such as Tayna, Battery Megastore, Plymouth Batteries - there are more. Most deliver mail order the following day. Incase it helps, I only buy quality batteries such as Varta/Bosch, and only their 5 year warranty (silver topped) grade. Search EBay for your model and confirm suitability with the supplier. With batteries, it’s buy once and wisely in my book. Chances are the new battery will need to be coded to your car - search for a local independent. Re. shock absorbers:- again search EBay for quality aftermarket ones such as Bilstein ( fit as a pair). I’ve used Car Parts in Motion recently ( no connection, and plenty of others) and found their pricing to be reasonable - just input your reg. no. on their website. Personally, I avoid suppliers who list high % discounts off so called retail prices! You can then enquire at your trusted local garage (or independent) for a labour charge. Hope some of this helps, Kind regards, Gareth.
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Hello Sarah, Sorry, but I’m confused as to why you would want this facility removed. Wondering if you could share your reasoning with us? Kind regards, Gareth.
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Hello Natalie, Thanks for being in touch with the forum, and sorry to hear of your issue. If I understand it, this boils down to being absolutely dangerous, and I can only equate it to driving on the motorway and suddenly applying the brakes and coming to an abrupt stop in the carriageway. Never driven one of these, but I’m led to believe that taking your foot off the power retards the motors and actual braking, as we know it, is nowhere near as necessary as it is with a conventional car, so the car stops quite quickly anyway. Possible over reaction on my part, but I wouldn’t want this car back for a pension, since I would consider driving it could be life threatening. It would further concern me that the technical experience of fault finding and rectification with EVs is in its comparative infancy, and I would be scared that I would be acting as the test pilot for any work on this car. Having this car back would not be for me - no debate. Kind regards, Gareth.
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Awaiting response from Aaron who no doubt knows about it’s listed service history. Kind regards, Gareth.
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Hello Steve, Is my dotage showing through, since I seem to have missed the bit about the garage knowing and cutting corners - and the honesty bit? Wasn’t actually aware the garage had stated they were only going to change the one. Kind regards, Gareth.
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Hello Aaron, Ex plod?? They seem to favour Audi for some covert vehicles. Any service history - or lack of it - indications? Kind regards, Gareth.
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Thanks Ricky, I would expect that you were told that everything was checked thoroughly……..but……was it? I bet it will be now though! Obviously there isn’t any evidence to confirm that the wiper motor can be eliminated, but surely any bits of glass were unlikely to have been implicated in the first shattering - unless it had indeed been shattered before your ownership. If it were mine, I would still be wanting to see the glass mounting area myself, and thoroughly inspect it before another screen is fitted. Kind regards, Gareth.
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Hello Karl, I would certainly change both at the same time. The downside is that you will probably have to pay for the other, since it hasn’t (yet) broken. Kind regards, Gareth.
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Hello Ricky, If this were mine, I would be carefully looking for any stress raiser points where the glass fits - obviously this can only be done when the ‘old’ glass is removed. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.
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Hello Mark, Thanks for being in touch with the forum, and really sorry to hear of your almost unbelievable mis fortune so quickly. In normal times of vehicle availability, I would see the way forward as simply being that the dealer supplies you with a like for like replacement from nationwide stock. Of course, things aren’t normal, and if this were mine, I wouldn’t want it back for a pension, but how quickly will you find a replacement ?? - so you are probably at their mercy, and their ‘mercy’ is very much an unknown quantity. Again if it were me, I would be seeking legal advice, and then arranging a meeting with the dealer principal. Compensation? If this is your bag, then obviously it is important, and I’m sure you can sort this out amicably. For me, it would very much be of secondary importance in the whole picture. Again, if there is any element of finance or PCP involved, then you will need to inform them since they ‘own’ the vehicle. I really hope this works out for you. Perhaps you could keep us informed as things develop Mark. Kind regards, Gareth.
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Thanks James, So the car has used half a litre in 600 miles -? If this were mine, I would be informing the seller that the car appears to be using an excessive amount of oil, and that you are currently monitoring its consumption over the next 500 miles. I would be doing this by e-mail, and stating that you will get back to them with the consumption figure within 2 weeks. If it’s monitored consumption is confirmed at around 600 miles per half litre ( i.e. 1,200 miles per litre) then I would say we have seem far worse, and you may find that it isn’t significant enough to be able to reject the car. However, I wouldn’t prejudge the situation until you have carried out your check. I would now be looking in the owners handbook, and you should find figures for anticipated oil consumption which you can compare with your results. A couple of additional questions:- what grade and brand of oil are you using to top up? What mileage has the car covered, and do you have a comprehensive service history for it? Perhaps you could come back with the answers, and let us know how you get on with your consumption test. Kind regards, Gareth.
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Hello James, Thanks for being in ouch with the forum. Others more knowledgeable about specific engines and build years will hopefully fill in a bit more detail, but suffice it to say it is not an uncommon issue within those parameters. When you say you have noticed it uses a lot of oil, has it now just started using a lot of oil during your long term ownership, or have you recently bought it? If the latter, did you buy it privately or through a dealer, when did you buy it, and what quantity of oil does it use in what miles? Kind regards, Gareth.
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Many thanks Angelo, I just wonder if we can be excused for thinking manufacturers think all drivers go around corners on two wheels, so need super low profile tyres that don’t flex too much! I also wonder why Dunlop developed the inflatable tyre when we are going back towards a similar effect to that of the solid tyre. Yes, you are right that high profile tyres will result in a softer ride, but I think you will find that low profile tyres are generally accompanied by harder sports suspension - so double whammy. Personally, I would not fit 50 profile tyres, since the diameter difference will not be insignificant. If you want to fit higher profile tyres, you might have to look at 17 inch wheels, but the suspension set up may still counter that benefit. Are then any other owners on here who might be able to offer ‘real time’ experience with this? Kind regards, Gareth.
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Many thanks Paul. Would be worth listing it on EBay if you don’t get any interest here. Kind regards, Gareth.