Magnet

Apologies, I wasn’t aware of the deposit paid - £ equivalent? Without looking it up. Non refundable may well alter the advice given.

Hello Riyss, It would seem that this car has had a ‘disrespectful’ owner. If I was in your situation, I would simply walk away and forget it. Aren’t there any other examples to consider?

If it were mine, my priority would be to sort the tyre situation out first. On a personal preference basis, I’ve not had the life out of Handkook tyres that make them a worthwhile consideration - others may well have different experiences. I’m currently ‘experimenting’ with Kumho tyres on the non-Audi, in case it helps.

Repeating :-well worth putting the pair of Hankooks on the front.

You don’t need a tester to inspect the condition of the cables within the flexible harness section Kieran.

RoadX - sounds like Chinese best, and personally I wouldn’t opt for that and another unknown brand on the front axle. What brands and remaining tread do you have on the back ones?

Checked my advice then Keiran?

It certainly doesn’t surprise that two different treads on the front would result in varying noises. I personally dislike different brands on the same axle, but can understand your logic in this case. Might be well worth swopping the odd front ones to the back and see if that alters the noise. What brands of tyres do you currently have on the front? Regards, Gareth.

Welcome Kieran and thanks for joining. I take it you have a multimeter and have checked to ensure a good earth on that side, and presumable an absence of 12v -? If so, it would be well worth checking the wiring within the flexible harness section twixt body and tailgate. A favourite location for fractured cables. Regards, Gareth.

Hello Colin, Much has already been said on here about VAG’s current recommendation of not renewing belts until c140K miles, with no age limit. You will see from a search that the forum generally does not hold with that schedule, and suggests sticking with their previous recommendation of change at c75K miles, or 5 years - whichever comes first. The logic will be outlined in the searched threads, but basically boils down to VAG are not in the business to sell dealer time in changing cam belts - but selling new vehicles. If a vehicle’s engine expires due to belt breakage, then they have an opportunity to sell a new vehicle. Worth a search and a read Colin. Please let us know what you decide to do. Regards, Gareth.

Thanks Robert, But you are assuming it was correctly serviced before you bought it at 2 years old and at 21k miles. In terms of seeking any contribution from Audi, then assumptions are simply meaningless. You will need to wander into an Audi dealer and request a print out copy of the on-line service history - and hope it was ‘serviced strictly to the book’. Now on to its servicing under your ownership, as was asked - could you now tell us about that, so we can better advise you?

You are wasting your money Grant with getting a bigger charger - why? Trying an old battery??? I think I’ll dip out of this one until you report back with the official test results on the battery using meaningful equipment. This has to be the first test.

Thanks Paul, Jason joined and posted on 5th June, but is yet to revisit and come back with any comment. Good, isn’t it? Regards, Gareth.

Shouldn’t be, of course. At what intervals was it serviced in the two years before you bought it, and at what intervals during your ownership - and by an Audi main dealer. Is the dealer/Audi going to seek some form of contribution towards the substantial cost? Regards, Gareth.

Never did come back. Might be worth trying a PM if no response.

Thanks Marcin, You may well be right, but it is only an assumption that it is ‘more than the battery’ until the battery has first been properly tested and eliminated as a culprit. This is No.1 test of a series of tests, but we don’t seem to be getting too far. Saying it as I see it, so far, it’s a bit like extracting a sore tooth?

Thanks Robert, but it would be good if you could answer the questions asked. ‘Crankshaft bearing has failed….’. Um, sounds strange - there are many bearings on the crankshaft. Have they stripped this engine to come up with that diagnosis? Did you have any warning indications/ noises but this failure? This car is not long out of warranty. Have you had it long, have you seen the service history for it if not owned it from new? Regards, Gareth.,

There will be a means of adjusting the intensity of the instrument panel lights - are you sure this hasn’t been set to minimum? Do you have both dip and main beam lights? When you say ‘flash’ do you mean the headlamp flasher doesn’t work? Regards, Gareth.

Welcome Robert, thanks for joining, and sorry to hear about your issue. To help Cliff and I, can you tell us whether the starter motor now cranks the engine over or not? If it does, we take it the engine doesn’t actually start now-? Regards, Gareth,

Hello Grant, Meaningful information and the results of advised tests are dribbling through slowly, but dribbling they are. Important :- Is this car a manual or an automatic? How did you measure the latest battery voltage? Was the engine on the jump start donor car ( what was it?) running at about 2,000 rpm when you attempted to start yours with it. Regards, Gareth.

Can you ask them whether it was an engine earth cable or the positive feed cable to the starter?

Try LLL Parts website David.

Hello Riyss, So much data to read and understand. I don’t know what the regulations are in your country, but here, any vehicle driven on tyres with 1mm of tread (if I’ve read correctly) would be illegal and I would guess - worldwide? - any owner driving on such tyres would not be demonstrating a high regard for their vehicle’s maintenance. Aren’t there any others to choose from? Regards, Gareth.

The first thing to eliminate/incriminate is the battery. Halfords stores or probably your local motor factors can test its efficiency - under load. Please let us know how you get on. If you need to replace the battery, then buy once and wisely. The forum can advise you on this.

Thanks Grant, If you are judging the battery’s efficiency as being ‘good’ by using a simple multi meter, then you are barking up the wrong tree. In any case, a reading of only 12v after a 24 hour charge is too low. Regards, Gareth.