cliffcoggin

Please let us know the outcome.

I can't help on that score with any certainty. It might be a separate heat exchanger mounted behind the main radiator, or it might be integrated into the radiator. Let's hope somebody more knowledgeable will chip in.

Nevertheless the tailgate should close in alignment with the opening even before the bump stops make contact, so I ask again if the hinges can be adjusted for a better fit?

If they can not then I would be concerned that either the body or the tailgate has been damaged in a crash.

Daren.

You seem to have covered the obvious causes of low oil pressure. I think it is significant that the low pressure only happens after hard acceleration when the oil would get hotter than normal, so I wonder if there is a restriction in the oil cooler, assuming you have one.

17 hours ago, Mark Valley said:

but rather to report a potentially flawed MOT process and to prompt an investigation into the garage's practices. I believe this garage is part of the dealer's garage and MOT station.

 

Are you saying the testing station is part of the same business that sold you the car?

Has the tailgate always been twisted, or is it a recent change in alignment? Perhaps it is the hinges that need adjustment.

Do you have an update for us Mark?

So much for the pre-delivery inspection then.

It's easy enough to measure wear with a cheap tread depth guage.

If it shows more wear at both shoulders than at the centre line the pressure is too low, and vice versa.

If the inner shoulder is worn more than the outer, the toe in is too small, and vice versa. The tracking needs to be adjusted.

I suggest you get the tyres and the tracking checked.

Ah, Torx had not occurred to me. I don't know its location though the low profile suggests somewhere with very little clearance above it.

Is it really a threaded screw rather than a ribbed press stud? I ask because I see no slot or shape to the head by which to drive it.

Those readings have little relevence, so you could indeed have a faulty battery. The symptoms you report are consistent with a dying battery which can not provide the stable power supply needed by the car's electronics. If it is the original eight year old battery I suggest you replace it as soon as practical, and ensure you get it coded to the car. See this for an explanation why:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IJAScg6JrYI

Can you get more headroom by tilting the seats forwards?

Thanks for the update and the humour.

5 hours ago, DRC27Wash said:

I am seriously considering taking it back 

Don't just consider it, do it.

3 hours ago, Autoquip said:

Turned out to be the crank sensor in my case.

Thanks for belatedly letting us know.

It might help us to help you if you told us more about the engine. Details like fuel, capacity, service history, are important to anybody trying to diagnose a fault. A more complete description of the problem is also essential.

I doubt that reading data would be a problem; altering data would be a different matter.

Diesel EGR coolers have a reputation for leaking coolant and blowing back to the reservoir.

You have not mentioned whether it is diesel or petrol fuelled.

There should be no significant wear after a mere 50000 miles, so the whine indicates something is amiss. I suggest you get the car assessed by an independant VAG specialist. Don't go to an Audi dealer who will either tell you the noise is normal or try to sell you a hugely expensive new transmission.

Was Richard's response of use to you Jax?

"Sealed for life" does not mean immune to wear. How many miles has it done?

Agreed. Any fault with a new car shoud be referred straight back to the dealer.

8 minutes ago, Vacumatic said:

it is not a known problem then I am happy to ignore it.

I would not know if it is a recognised problem, but I would be concerned about it in your place. If the water is not coming off the road surface it must be leaking from the car. Perhaps somebody more knowledgeable will chip in.