cliffcoggin

So much for the promises of updates that might help others in the same position as Wayne.

Personally I would change them. The old oil will give you a chance to detect metal particles, while if it is clean you will have only lost the cost of the oil. Nobody ever had a breakdown as a result of changing oil too often.

Loss of stop/start and radio presets are typical of a dying battery. Get it tested on deep discharge equipment, and if a new battery is needed get it coded to the car.

Fair enough Chris. I needed to make sure.

I can't help regarding an upgraded clutch, but if professionals (if that is what Unicorn are,) recommend a standard unit I would go with that. If the original standard clutch has lasted 16 years it has done well, so a similar replacement should last the realistic lifetime of the car.

1 hour ago, crashoverride said:

As for the diagnostic scan, of course several have been done and it is kicking out every bad fuel pump code and fuel related code and then some.

A pity you did not mention that earlier to save wasting our time. Error codes always have to be interpreted in the light of experience, rather than taken literally. So it was not flippancy to ask for them as you wrongly assumed, rather it was an attempt to get some of the basic information which you initially failed to provide.

In view of your attitude I shall not add any more to this discussion, even though I have a strong suspicion about the cause of the problem.

Good luck.

38 minutes ago, Nelly26 said:

The video is fine to watch its from my phone!

Well you would say that wouldn't you. You may not even be aware of possible malware, so sorry again, but I am not going to watch it. I suggest a decent photograph uploaded to the forum with your reply. The forum software will eliminate most nasties or prevent uploading.

Are you really looking for an upgrade, which implies a performance clutch able to handle upgraded engine power, or do you mean a standard clutch at lower than LUK prices? Sorry to ask but some folk here think upgraded equals renewed.

Sorry Nelly, I won't download files from untrusted sources so I have not watched your video. However if you can see where the leak originates, that is the part that needs to be replaced. Have you taken it to a garage yet, or got opinions from anybody else?

It's true I can not help you Josh if you are not prepared to either do any testing or provide suitable information to aid a possible diagnosis. If all you want is speculation and guesses then you don't need my help. After all you claim to be "fairly car literate and I'm usually able diagnose and know the problem..."

I looked up Power Engines and saw the company supply new and re-conditioned engines, so can you be sure the engine you received was genuinely new? The company lists this for your car:

https://powerengines.com/collections/all?filter.p.m.custom.make=Audi&filter.p.m.custom.model=Q5&filter.p.m.custom.year_multi_selects=2016

The price of $3199 is impossibly low for a brand new engine, even before it is shipped from Germany, so what do you conclude from that?

Good luck with your project. It's been decades since I had any engines re-bored & re-shelled, and would not know where to get such work done now.

20 minutes ago, crashoverride said:

Real world trouble shooting and diagnostics has to occur

OK, then do so, and tell us the results of such things as compression tests, injector tests, CO emission, and oil consumption. It would also help to know of modifications that have been made and ECU mapping. The only actions you have mentioned are three fuel pump changes without telling us the reason. Was the fuel pressure tested before changing the pump?

53 minutes ago, crashoverride said:

Where do I start in trying to diagnose..??

Connect it to diagnostic code reader.

Gregg.

Any engine of that era is likely to have significant wear, so you would be better off trying to get yours re-conditioned.

2 hours ago, Zacy2566 said:

The A/c has stopped working.

That's not a symptom; that's supposition.

2 hours ago, Zacy2566 said:

If it’s a hot day it just blows warm air regardless if it is set on cold.

Is it the same temperature from every vent, or just one? What happens when the temperature setting is raised to hot.

The cooling system of AC does not block up. It commonly loses its gas through leaks, or the compressor can fail, or the belt can snap.

Perhaps it is an air duct that has been blocked by a failed flap motor. Please give some symptoms of the problem.

I have never heard of them. Would you provide a link to the equipment please?

3 hours ago, vr6bro said:

it has a bent steering arm so drives like it has a really bad alignment, gets good drift angle though, tyres r shredded to bits after i couldnt help my self but drive. i think theres no other option but to bend the hinge, dont really care about the other stuff its not as major as this for me.

A chassis or steering misalignment will make the car unsafe to drive, so you really should care about it.

Presumably NZ has some sort of compulsory road worthiness test? If it is anything like ours the car could fail the test.

Bryce.

What was the point of asking a question here if you do not return to read any replies?

If your reserve of 10 litres truly equates to 30 miles of range I reckon the gauge calibration is faulty.

Believing the rings are worn is not the same as having evidence of it. In your position I would carry out a compression test before making any decisions.

Bon voyage. Do let us know the ratio of working vs non-working charge points.

Does your car not have a CCS charging port?

For what it's worth my own car can only utilise type 2. I will not take it outside its home charging range because the majority of public type 2 charge points in Kent have been abandoned by their operators, and can not supply electricity. I have no reason to believe it is any different at your end of the country so I consider your proposed road trip to be very risky if you are reliant on type 2.

I have not the faintest idea what you are referring to, so how about giving us some details. We don't charge by the word.

Any update for us Wayne?

There is something I don't understand here. Why, if you bought it three years ago, are you now having to pay another £13000?