cliffcoggin

I am a little confused about whether you are discussing the oil pressure sensor or the oil level sensor, either of which could be defective. Is there an old-fashioned dipstick to first establish if the oil level is genuinely low?

Nevertheless from the viewing angle of the video it looks as the clamp is cutting into the hose. Perhaps that's a false impression because I can not reconcile the long hose shown in the still pictures with what appears to be the short elbow in the video. Maybe that's just the perspective of the view.

If it is a genuine Audi part it will have been made of a rubber that will withstand the temperature of its environment, however you mentioned it was vac pipe that you fitted which will have a different composition.

Two other thoughts occur to me:

1/ I wonder if the degradation is caused by rubbing as the hose vibrates. Are any securing clips missing?

2/ Did you inspect and clean the stub of pipe that the hose fits over? Aluminium can corrode badly causing a poor seal between rubber and metal.

What sort of hose clamp have you used? It looks like a mis-shapen piece of wire that is cutting into the rubber hose.

Do you know there is more than one fusebox on A3s? My 2007 model had one under the bonnet and another under the dash.

4 hours ago, NikHussain said:

Any recommendations on Extended Warranty Companies? 

Yes. Don't waste your money on any of them.

Michael.

Have you looked at the Q2 forum? It might give you some opinions there.

It will depend how thick the wall thickness of the new hose is. Vacuum hoses have either more rigid reinforcement than pressure hoses, or thicker walls, because it is easier for a hose to resist internal pressure than external pressure.

Don't trouble yourself about the video, your words are good enough.

After that I am at a loss so let's hope somebody will have a suggestion.

Sorry to teach granny to suck eggs, but are you certain that all the indicators are working? I read of a similar problem recently where one of the mirror or wing indicator lamps had failed yet the front and rear main indicators were still working.

Daniel.

I can not answer your question, but surely a two year old car is still under guarantee from the dealer who sold it to you.

20 hours ago, Mcleanl866 said:

 Unsure why you are being so testy about it.

I am being "testy" as you call it because the forum is being plagued by people like yourself who pose questions and never bother to look at the replies that others have spent time and effort on. If your problem was important enough to spend time composing your questions, surely it is worth a little more time to read and aknowledge their replies? Is that really too much to expect? If nothing else, the matter is one of good manners.

12 hours ago, Jim1972 said:

.Just needed a good bonnet slam. The bonnet weighs a ton so I didn’t want to be brutal with it. 

You should not need to be brutal with the bonnet or even slam it hard. If it can not be secured by lowering gently then pressing above the latch, it needs adjustment to the latch. 

I would not spend money on a new motor without testing the fuse first.

I am surprised the fuse is not shown in the handbook. Look at the underside of the fusebox cover. You may find some information there.

4 hours ago, Hammie1982 said:

One of my headlights has an intermittent fault.  (think the buld is on its way out) it goes pink for a day or two and then rights itself again.

It may be a poor connection at the bulb or a plug. It would be worth having a look before spending money on new lights.

54 minutes ago, Evelina said:

 Of course I will choose used and sometimes the lock itself is sold without keys, can I use my old key provided that all the numbers match?

No, your key will not fit another lock barrel. Furthermore if you change one lock barrel you will need to change all the others (such as doors and boot) if you want to operate them all with a single key.

On the other hand it may be possible to fit your old barrel into a new switch. It is not something I have done so I am unsure. Perhaps others here can advise.

1 hour ago, Mcleanl866 said:

Oh I wasn’t aware I had any responses. Just had to search for those. 

You didn't even look? It seems that two people wasted their time answering your questions.

It could be either. Take the tension off the belt and rattle the pulleys to discover which is loose. The AC fault may not be related.

By the way, you have posted two previous topics about odd noises from your car without letting us know the outcome. How about responding to the replies you received, or at least aknowledging that you have read them.

Kevin.

I imagine the market for such an old car is very small, unless it has some significant history such as a famous owner or the winning of a rally for examples. That two traders are uninterested seems to confirm its lack of appeal, so eBay is the only thing I can suggest that will reach a wide market, but be prepared for a nasty shock at how little money you will get for it there.

Gordon.

Just to add, even if the wheels were balanced when the tyres were fitted, pot holes and kerb climbing can dislodge the weights. If balancing does not solve the problem we need to investigate elsewhere.

Although I had a 2 litre diesel A3 2007 until three years ago I don't really remember what the fuel consumption was. I recall it was typical for its type and not unduly thirsty, but beyond that I do not know. In any case a car's consumption always depends on how it is driven and on what roads.

Gordon.

The most likely cause is the wheels being unbalanced. Get this checked at a tyre shop before looking for other causes.

Why?

I imagine it is the same bonnet as the hybrid, but without the insulation. It's cheaper to make one bonnet that fits both models than it is to make two different ones.

This bizarre tale is becoming more and more convoluted and confusing, so shall we start again?

How about you tell us what the symptoms of the problem are, rather than making false assumptions about the clutch and the need for a donor car. We can then perhaps home in on where the fault is located, and where to spend money wisely.

And please, no more pictures of shiney bits of metal. They add nothing to the narrative.

I had a couple of Ohme Home Pro units for a while, but the IP rating did not concern me as I had them fitted inside a garage. I had to get them removed under guarantee for a couple of reasons. Firstly they rely on a mobile phone signal for scheduled charging, a signal that was too weak inside the garage with the door closed for them to work reliably. The second reason was my particular car model that I belatedly found was notorious for going to sleep and ignoring any wake up calls. That's why I have reverted to a portable dumb charge unit, albeit one with a built in delay timer so that I can use cheap overnight electricity.

Paul.

It all hinges on the rating of your charge unit which you have not mentioned. That is what controls the power delivery. There should be label on it that tells you what the rating is. If it is rated for only 3 kW, then 3kW is all that can be extracted from it no matter what other equipment you install.

If that charge unit is capable of delivering 7kW, then yes you could get 7kW charging if you also get an electrician to install a suitably rated cable from the fuseboard to to the outside wall, and install a suitably rated MCB in the fuseboard. However it does not end there. I have only a limited knowledge of electrical regulations so you will almost certainly find that a variety of earth and neutral leakage detectors and other equipment are required.

The long and the short of the matter is that you need to consult an electrician in order to achieve 7 kW charging.