Mar4ix

Hi Gareth. I had a look on eBay , and I wouldn't say them mad crazy expensive... One I had a look, was something 40 GBP delivered... Wouldn't considering use second hand door lock, as it probably won't last long... Sometimes could be lucky... But by my experience... Not .. had Passat before, couple times changed door locks with used ones, didn't las more than couple months... (Typical problem with microswitches).. tried fix myself... But never worked out right... After bought brand new locks, problems were solved.. Car just passed test (MOT), just didn't lock the car , left it unlocked , tester didn't notice that lock won't unlock , but still I'd love to get it fixed, as some times very inconvenient get open door from inside , driver side, once door is opened, if not locked, door lock operates normal .

Hi. Actually problem is with passenger door lock motor. 99% I'm alone in car in last 8years I own the car, going to work and back home. Very seldom opening passenger door . I'm more often opening boot than passenger door 😁 But thanks for advise. 👍

Hi guys , I have Audi A3 , 2008, 2.0 TDI. , with 3 door... 8P1 model. My passenger door lock actuator not really working as should.. started intermittently do not unlock, but now impossible unlock, just pull lever from inside to get open. Would it be same door lock as from 5 door car?

Hi folks, I have 3 door Audi A3 , 2008, bkd diesel engine, with 6 speed manual box. Lately I've found out that after unlocking car, front passenger door wouldn't unlock (but still can hear motor sound in lock), first few months that was intermittent, now it's getting permanent problem, and to get it open, I have to open door from inside. Would it be lock itself problem ? Or seized mechanisms in-between ? Maybe someone would have part number of that lock? Thanks.

Hi folks, just an update on this. The other day ive removed my front brake disks, and discovered that my left side brake disc have a crack , tiny black line acros friction surface, first i thought thats a dirt, tried wash it off, but it didnt go away, and it did look like crack... also my front left side hub was getting overheating thats why i removed brake disks, as it was getting worse to drive on motorway, as i could feel bad vibration... assumed front discs were warped... i had no really much choice , rang local motorfactors, and them suplied with Apec front disks and pads of same make, now driving couple days, no problem what so ever. . and braking performance is very good id say... strangely enough , as brake disks wasnt worn that bad, just tiny lip , also caliper pin guides was not seized or anything, was well functioning. while I was at the calipers, ive reconditioned them, as ive had recon kits, which i bought around half year ago, as i had in my mind, that front brake calipers will have to be reconditioned. Picture attached

Thanks for your answer. I was thinking same, brakes are brakes, and well know , good reputable name to use. Kind of not in position test unknown brand... might it good , and no problem with it, maybe leave for youtube/instagram vlogers to test. .. I consider go known brand... Mintex, Bosh or Brembo . .. website where I am usually buying parts ( shop located in germany) offers number brake disks , bit confusing ... as there thickness and diameter are number variations for my car, is there find out right part numbers for my car ? factory s-line, 2008 audi a3, 2.0 16v tdi (pd engine) . thanks.

Good work. Went through your issues. Not only Audi, but the whole Vag group of cars suffers from bad/broken wires in door rubber gators. If on these cars door electrics start play their own life(also speakers may be affected), first thing is pull off wiring, check for wire damage.. I had number vag cars, all them had door wiring issues. Regarding your rear wiper, before you replace it, get checked if any power comes to plug. Could be broken wire in back door rubber gator. About fan motor, check outside if plastic tray under windscreen (with holes for front wipers) is fit tight in windscreen plastic groove... If it not clicked in, water drips on to fan motor.. On my audi also first it stopped, I've gave a good wd40 spray, and worked for few months, didn't had chance fix that plastic, and from water that motor died.. Then I bought second hand one, replaced, and spend half of day to clean that groove, as it was full of dirt from long time, after I've click that plastic in groove, now everything is fine. You've got lovely motor their, now I wish I had automatic one... If you get picture of big sticker wich is in boot where spare wheel is, we can figure out what engine you've got. Ta

Hi folks. Time to replace all brake disks and brake pads. I am considering go one make disks and brake pads.. As far as I know if you put different make brake disk and brake pads, often lead to different problems.. Squeaks.. Overheat... Warped brake disks.. Etc.. Is there brand that yous would recommend? Mintex.. Bosch.. Or others? Today got offered klaxcar brand.. Don't k know anything about it. Would that brand would be good enough to use on my car? I am not racing or participating of any type of races.. Just normal daily drive.. (100 miles a day) x 5 days a week. Picture attached.. Thanks.

Hi. There is no warnings on dash. Seller stated that is compatible with CAN system.

I would say difference is significant. Nobody flashed in journey home , so fitted correctly. One day will pop in in garage check lights on machine.

Yes. Regular h7. Ive got led lights yesterday evening. Unbranded. installed today, when im home after work, will put pictures to show differences.

Hi folks. Does anyone know what socket set have my audi for headlights(low beam). I am trying one company, them asking for socket type. Thanks.

Ok, just wondering is reflector in light getting bad over time? Would that be reflectors issue? However dipped lights are the most been used which is lenses, even through the day(I have coded Scandinavian lights in, as I do think cars should have light on all the time it moving). I've seen some LED bulbs for sale, promising easy installation. (I am handy with spanners, and electrics).. If Google up, first comes up number variations of Osram led kits, wonder anyone have used them, any improvements?

Hi folks by the time getting dark, headlights are kind of dull, i mean feels not that efficient as it should be . Any idea improve headlight performance? LED light bulbs, or have to replace whole headlights ? thanks.

Hi folks, thinking of putting a towbar on my audi a3, bkd engine, s-line model. Any one would advice where to buy, or some particular model?( Not really want cut my bumper), also maybe someone have a wiring diagram for attaching towbar electrics (socket) Thanks

Ok. Thanks for your answer. I think could one off two things... Could be both of them. Originally it is S-Line, with lower springs, one day i discovered, that both rear springs are broken, and befort car test , decided replace springs, and shock absorbers -all 4 corners. In the shop i asked springs off regular audi a3, hatchback, 5 door. I wanted car get higher,and more comfy ride. When installing springs, to compare to original s-line, new springs was 2 rings higher. After installing, suspension still stiff, but car is higher. Also dont like, that front is a bit higher than rear. I didnt released suspension bushes,so i assume it is still stiff ride because of that. Also i think i have done mistake (but not sure yet until i have strip front struts), i think ive might installed springs or one spring upside down.. As that time i was in rush, and thought it doesnt really matter, but now after looking some etka diagrams, appearantly narrover end of spring should be in top. Regarding wheel aligment, that time when i was replacing shock, discovered that tie rod worn, i've got it replaced, and after all new suspension in, i went to garage, for wheel aligment, and guys did it. On test we get wheel aligment tested also, and it went through with flying colors. But side of tyre goes bad. Probably will have to reassemble suspension and do abother wheel aligment.

Hi folks. I have noticed that my cars front left tires corner is bold. Wheel aligment is fine, passed test half year ago, even then already was signs of wering out, but tester let it through this time. Now after six months it does look bad. And i need to figure out why. So wheel aligment is fine, next is wheel chamber. Any way to adjust it? Before that started i have replaced shocks and coilovers, so that should be somehow related to it. Pictures attached. Any idea what to look for?

Hi guys, so some update on this. Due all known circumstances stuck home for 5 days, workin only 2 days, so plenty time for everything, house, kids, and also for my audi. First few days had some time for other things , adjusted driver door window regulator, as few months back when i was changing , had to rush to finish, as rain started on half way. Also aligned driver door.... dont know how good it is, but looks straight, had a chance drop in to motor factors, picked up some paint, so did side panels. Not perfect, but sure, fairly acceptable for 12 years old in mat finish. see pictures. For some reason i cant arrange order the way pictures appears, but there is pictures with before work, preparing, sanding, primer with etch primer, and mat black paint and final result. still need to do some touch up, clean up. but looks good at the moment.

Very good. Let us know when it is done and if you are happy with. Ta

Thanks folks for replays. I dont have garage, so will have to wait for better weather conditions. @Magnet yea, i am surprised myself, ive got car in uk, with pretty high mileage. According maintinance dockets, car was doing 30-35k miles a year. I presume thats motorway, as car was in excelent condition, but later have found out that there is a lot spots has rust patches, fuel filter top cover nearly rust through, most clamps on rubber pipes are well rusty, i think car must be driving mostly sea coast roads. I dont have huge painting experience, just some bit... Touch ups, bit of spray etc. I think ill be fine with this part as it does not reqires much work like other body parts. But didnt know about etch primer, as i have not painted aluminium before. After primer - satin black. That allright. I want car look like standart as much as possible. I wonder, is alloys also need fetch primer? I presume yes. Mine s-line alloys does indeed look bit worn.

thank You !

Hi folks, i have audi A3 8P1 , thats 3 door model, and i have issues with some paint flaking off side top panel which is between the doors and rear window, i have attached picture to see what i talk about , sorry dont know what is proper name of it. would anyone advice how to paint it ? i assume thats aluminium part, does not look good. flaking both sides of the car. thanks.

Hi. I was doing some work on my audi a3 8p1 '08, 2.0 tdi bkd endine. I think there wont be much benefit from induction kit. If you do, do it properly, there is few options, buy standart sport type filter, using same housing, if you do buy mushroom one, then filter has to be seperated from engine bay, because car have to get cold air, not hot air from engine bay, so that mushroom filter have to be in kind of box, with opening towards original air intake slot. Personally i would advice get standart size sport filter. I have replaced intercooler, and i bought intake pipes from darkside development, but after use for a wile, really need kit from intercooler to intake manifold. From turbo to intercooler i would advise use standart pipes, just replace seals, and cracked rubber pipes, and will need one adapter from standart pipe to intercooler (as aluminium intercooler is not click system but sleeve system). I have removed egr with egr cooling system, worth to buy adapter for cooling system from L shape to I shape. Regarding remap, i used remapper on uk ebay , and asked to remap other ecu, not original. So my original ecu on top shelve just for unknown case 😂. My engine is 138 hp, remapper said it goin to be between 180-190 hp. I havent checked on rollers, but i feel it is way quicker. Not using car for racing or anything sport ish, it is handy to have sometimes extra few horses under bonnet, as sometimes needed on motorway and quick move on roundabouts. In normal driving conditions i found out that car is approx 10-15 % more economical than on standard ecu. Ta

First of all, it was cheapest Audi a3 diesel, from 2008 at that time and place, wouldnt buy se version either. Probably just coincidence, i bumped in to s-line , price, condition, history was acceptable. Second thing is, i didnt know much about s-line that time , i didnt really like se models, but s-line, is just fantastic, at beginning thought it is just expensive badge, but now i know it is way more comfortable and way better looking car than regular se. My friend have se model, i had kind of neutral attitude. On mine suspension is fairly tight, mileage is over 160 k miles, i believe shock absorbers probably is on the way out at that mileage ( no records of shock absorber change). I do indeed like harsh swing in to road bends or crossroads, car holds road amazingly good, havent made her slide/drift yet, have no proper place for that. I think of changing wheels with thicker tyres and maybe shockabsorbers. I am use to sport ish car (few years back were driving skyline) , but it has realy hard suspension, forget about road sound (maybe some sound deedening stuff will have to fit). It is perfect for sport ish driving and enjoy driving, but driving in city on daily basis, on not the best roads, getting annoyed about feeling every manhole or hole on road surface.