Bigdave1230

Does it have a panaramic sunroof?

First thing I’d do is change the gearbox oil and filter. scan it using vcds too but a blocked filter might throw codes up for other components that aren’t working correctly due to poor circulation. It’s about £300-£400 but if I’m honest I’d be harassing the dealer to arrange sorting it or refunding. What millage has it done? How much service history does it have and is it specialists or Audi?

Does it display the N symbol on the dash when it does this or does it still display the correct gear and revs up without drive? If you move the gear stick over into tiptronic and use the paddles does it still do this? And the noise you mentioned is it a thud or grinding or metallic?

I had a similar problem that’s posted somewhere further back in the forum. It turned out to be the crankshaft sensor. When it was cold the car started fine and would run perfectly. Let it warm up then parked it and the car wouldn’t restart. It would just turn over and over. I had to leave it to cool down a bit before it would start. Vcds showed no faults. Very intermittent and really annoying. When you drive the car and turn it off the temp under the bonnet carry’s on rising as there’s no airflow. Sometimes mine would start after 10 mins others times 30 mins. No warning lights were ever displayed and once it was running it would perform perfectly until you turned it off.

The rear wiper washer runs through the motor. The seal goes and water gets into the motor making it start and stop on the screen. It’s a rubbish design really but a new replacement on eBay is £30. Tell tale sign is the rear washer jet has poor performance or doesn’t hit the screen at all. Water then runs down into the tailgate and leaks onto the catch at the bottom. Common problem. To take it off you need to remove the top plastic trim off where the boot hinges are then the 2 side trims then the main boot trim. It’s held on with t20 torx screws I think. Put some wd40 on the rear wiper arm after taking off the 13mm nut holding it on as the arms splines seize onto the motor and as it goes through the glass you can’t really give it too much force.

Driving along with no problems then when I pulled up outside a friends house and dropped something off the glow plug light started flashing. Thought I’d best not turn the car off as it might not start so drive it the mile or so home and turned it off. Left it a min then restarted it with no problems, car ran fine with no warning lights or flashing glow plug light. Then next day jumped in the car and went to set off but the car cut out. Started straight back up and idled fine, rev’d no problem. Set off and after about 500 yards the car cut out again, started back up and after about 200 yards cut out again. Started back up and turned around to get back home and cut out again but then would start back up with a misfire and cut out after a few seconds. Couldn’t get the car home so rang a mate who turned up with a snap on code reader which showed injector circuit A & B malfunction as well as injector 2 malfunction and injector 4 electrical fault. Tried unplugging the injectors one by one to try and get the car to run if it was a faulty injector that was preventing the car from running but it would only run for a few seconds then cut out. Recovered the car back home but by this point the car wouldn’t start at all. After various checks the fuel pressure seemed low at the fuel rail ( weak and bubbly ) and the car not showing any codes due to it not starting so replaced the fuel regulator on the drivers side ( the car has 1 on each side but a faulty regulator on the passenger side will still let the car run all be it badly) still wouldn’t even attempt to start. The car would just turn over and over. Removed the injectors and set them for testing which showed various faulty. Replaced all 6 injectors with new but the car still wouldn’t attempt to start. Removed the ECU and sent away for testing with a description of the fault the car was doing. The ECU testing showed it to be faulty but beyond repair. Bought a used replacement with the same numbers on a through a friend of a friend cloned the ecu to match mine. Plugged back into the car and it fired straight up no problems with no codes stored or warning lights. After speaking with an auto electrician he believes that either a faulty injector spiked the ecu or an ecu fault killed the injectors. Found loads of posts on forums with cars with the same fault but no answer to what the problem was. Hope this helps if anybody has or gets similar.

Had a go in a SQ7 the other day on 22” and drove well

I’ve got 22” On my 08 Q7..... never had a problem and never noticed a difference between mine and other Q7’s with 20” and 21” wheels I’ve been in and driven.

The mmi in that is a 2g basic. To upgrade it to a 2g high with the colour screen etc would require changing and adding so many components that it honestly wouldn’t be worthwhile doing as the problem with fitting second hand components is that most are coded to the original car and can sometimes have limited functionality when fitted. Easiest way to get you phone to play music and phone calls through the car is to buy a Bluetooth fm transmitter from Amazon. Costs about £12 and plugs into the cigarette lighter. Bluetooth your phone to that and tune your cars radio to the fm frequency that it gives off.

Yeah the genuine tool is a socket with 2 notches to slot in but I used a pair of small grips. Hard to get to if your not using a 2 post ramp.

Sorry for the late reply I didn’t see it. I don’t know the part number as I didn’t get them from Audi. I got them from aerosus.co.uk they are air suspension specialists and sell everything. I’ve not had a problem since. I would recommend putting a little thread sealer on before fitting just to be sure. Hope this helps if you’ve not already sorted it.

Sorry just seen your wording! I changed the crankshaft sensor not the camshaft sensor

It’s not a hard job but it is fiddly. I’d recommend doing it on a ramp as you need to take the wheel off and the engine under tray to get access. It’s only held in with one allen key bolt. The sensor was about £60 I think. Mines a 3.0 v6 but I think the 4.2 v8 has 2 and might be in a different place so would be worth checking beforehand if yours is a V8.

Eurocarparts actually sell replacement bare engines (no alternator, turbo etc) but you have to ask them as they don’t list them on their website. But the main problem is finding somewhere willing to take it out as it’s a massive job! The only one I’ve ever seen taken out was by Audi who have a special table that locates into holes in the subframe and enables the whole drivetrain to come out as one unit ( engine, gearbox and subframe still attached) which lowers out from underneath.

Metal not meter

Have you tested the voltage with a multi meter on the jump points under the bonnet on the passenger side? I’d measure there then get the negative jump lead and connect to the negative terminal and clamp the other side to somewhere meter on the engine. Then measure it again and see if there’s a difference. Test it with the engine off and then with it turned on. Even 1 volt is a big difference. Should turn over quicker with the jump lead connected.

My mates Q7 just had a funny problem where the battery would go flat over night maybe once every couple of weeks. Battery tests fine and couldn’t fathom out why it was doing it. Turns out it was the auxiliary heater fan that was kicking in by itself during the night ( the auxiliary heater wasn’t turning on it was just some sort of fan associated with it) only reason it was found was one morning when he went out to it he could hear the fan before he opened the car. Pulled the 20A heater fuse on the passenger side of the dash board and it’s been fine since. Auxiliary heaters seem to be a bit rubbish on these anyway. If you run the car low on fuel and they try to kick in they lock up and need vcds to unlock them so most Q7’s aren’t working.

Could also be the starter but that’s a 4 hour nightmare of a job. If it’s not turning over at all I’d be more inclined to think starter thinking about it

Crank shaft sensor. Car will start and drive fine then when it starts to get warm and you park up the temp under the bonnet continues to rise as there’s no air flow. The faulty sensor gives an implausible signal when hot so when you try to start the car again the engine doesn’t get the correct position data so will either turn over and over or turn over for about 2 seconds then stop cranking just like it would if it had started correctly. Can be really intermittent and won’t show any fault codes in vcds. Leave it to cool down and it will fire up fine. Happened on mine last year

Air releasing after you get out and lock up is normal it’s just the car levelling itself. I have a Bosch Agm start stop battery on mine which isn’t coded in because it doesn’t have that model in its coding and it’s fine. Coding is only so the car knows at what point to turn everything off in the car if your sat in it with the ignition on and not running so it still has enough power to start the car.

What is the cars actual fault symptoms?

Should be fine. Has it fixed your problem?

Yeah your right I just didn’t want to go too far into it. I thought that was the simplest way to answer that’s all.

Does the fan gradually slow down until it stops or just cut out like flicking a switch?

All negatives on the car are linked. The negative terminal on the battery goes to the body of the car. The negative from the starter goes to the body that’s why they are called earths/earth straps. The problem isn’t the positive as that’s a dedicated wire that indirectly goes straight to the positive terminal on the battery. The negatives/earths at the bottom of the engine are open to the elements and corrode against the body and as such mean that the system can’t make a good circuit. By putting an extra earth/negative at the top of the engine the you are improving the circuit. You could just get a jump lead and connect from the terminal in the picture to anywhere on the engine to see if it cures your fault.