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White milky fluid in fuel system sounds more like water contamination. Had this on an old VX soon after I filled up at Sainsburys. Contacted them and sent them the claim - they repaid the bill but it was more obvious that they were at fault as they had a few claims hit them at the same Forecourt on the same day. Free water in diesel will drop to the bottom of the tank immediately so I would expect the damage you have experienced to be from your last fill up. Any garage would not appreciate you turning up with the parts and be asking for labour only. Have you sought the advice of a diesel specialist? http://avon-motors.co.uk/ Audi are steep on labour but I would also look at a full fuel flush if possible before going down the road of system replacement.

I would look at cleaning up electrical contacts and connections first - MAF would normally affect general running rather than misfire http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16484/P0100/000256 Could be a red herring as I still would not expect to see soot on a new Plug - in fact any plug... You have any way to check if there has not been a helicoil fitted before?

Broad

Soot on an insulator would suggest poor plug seating - hope it's not cross threaded. The rattly sound could be blowing out of the cumbustion chamber. If it is blowing it would run uneven too .

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Russell

Is this for bends in general or a specific bend? You have tightening bends, bends that open up, off camber bends etc. We have all gone in a bit hot to a bend and have had to ease off but this as Trevor has stated above will unsettle a vehicle's balance. Adjusting speed through braking or acceleration is ok if you have the traction and traction is dependant on tyre and road surface plus the variables such as water mud temperature leaves etc. It's one thing flinging it around a track where corner attributes do not vary that wildly and tyre degradation is more predictable but going into a blind bend hot to find a road covered in mud normally results in a number of things happening at once and how these are handled will normally dictate if you make it through the bend... Throttle lift off, braking, feathering the steering are all options but all can compromise traction be it drive or steering. Modern cars have ASC ABS and some are blessed with Quattro. All of these contribute to an ignorance factor where the car looks after the driver and all you will notice regarding a driving indiscretion is a few flashes of an icon on a dashboard. Drive with wild abandon in a Caterham or good old TVR and where ambition overtakes ability it normally results in a hole in a hedge. If you are trying to emulate a racing driver then you do all your braking before the corner entry accelerating through and out of the bend my short answer would be B Last bit of advice would be if you are looking to improve the commute home qualifying time practice it on a track - yes Shell Grip track surfaces provide higher levels of traction but the key secret is balance.

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