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Cheers Steve
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Hi Guys I took the car back to the mechanic who replaced the drivers side lower rearward arm and now all the noise is gone on the drivers side. Basically, that's both lower arms and drop link replaced on Drivers side. Looks like I need to do the same on the passenger side as I can now hear a creaking noise lol It only occurs at low speed during braking, as opposed to the drivers side which was during accelerating at low speed. I assume I need to replace the front lower rearward control arm too on the passenger side but has anyone ever experienced creaking noise during braking where the car pitches forward at low speed? Which arm would receive the most force during low speed braking? Just worried if I ask the mechanic to replace the arm and it doesn't fix it. Could it be the upper arms? Cheers
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You're most welcome 馃檪 please keep us posted on how you get on with the retrofit.
- Today
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Yeah, I raised it with the sales manager who showed me a 150 point pre sale check etc, the only thing I can think of is I'm pretty sure it was almost ok from cold and worse when up to temp, maybe this is why it got missed.
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Great guide. Well done on the job. If I may add; when I did mine I needed to remove the fan motor as there wasn鈥檛 the room to get the core out otherwise. Just in case anyone has the same experience as me.
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Please keep us posted on how you get on
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A trivial issue but its starting to niggle. Q2, 1.5 petrol. I thought it might be battery related as car is over 5 years old now, the start/stop kept turning off too, so I changed the battery and it is still happening, the digital clock on the MMI radio screen goes off at the same time as a single 'beep' occurs. No warning lights and I can find no info on this phenomenom. I usually have my phone plugged in with android auto showing google maps, which has its own clock, so it isn't much of an issue for me. I know its trivial but I need to know why its happening. Any ideas appreciated Thanks.
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Any news on this matter Brad?
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I will not mess any one around!!
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Please have a look at one of the advertisers at the bottom of the website as they do custom hoses. Club members get 10% off.
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If you use a vin decoder it should help tell you what spec you have. Or a sticker in the boot wheel well with various codes.
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I have the same problem mate and you're right, it is really annoying. My hearing's got worse over the years and my wife is constantly telling me I'm still indicating, unfortunately she doesn't have a volume control either.
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And no more AC, which is not what you want in this weather. Will you get it fixed?
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Finally part of Audi club but need a little help and advice
cliffcoggin replied to Cass91's topic in Audi A3 (8P) Forum
Tell us more about the driver's door. Can it be moved up and down on its hinges? Do the hinge screws still have their original paint? Does it align with the striker plate when being closed, or does it need to be slammed hard to latch? When fully closed, does it align with adjacent body panels, or is it twisted? -
Hi. When I fitted my spare wheel it dropped in underneath the boot floor, so there is no difference in the space available in the main boot. However, depending on the tyre and the fittings already fitted to the chassis underneath the floor you may get either more or less space for tools etc. my tools sit inside the spacesaver tyre which is handy. Hope that helps you out 馃憤
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Does anyone know what colour code the OEM springs are for a 2014 A6 C7 S-Line Ultra Saloon? Tried LLL parts but there's so many different colour codes that it nearly impossible to find which ones are right and I'd like to get the right springs that match the spec of the car. Cheers!
- Yesterday
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Fresh Air intake temperature sensor (G89).... Where is it
Sid2020 replied to Artea's topic in Audi A3 (8P) Forum
I would look between the intake under the scuttle trim and the interior fan motor. That would be a typical location the sensor you are looking for would be situated. Will be a very basic 2 wire sensor. -50 usualy means sensors has failed/disconnected or broken wire. You can use a jumper wire to quickly test for a change in readings to ascertain it鈥檚 the sensor needing replaced -
Thank you. I鈥檝e exhausted patience with it, I don鈥檛 know a lot to do with cars and less with electronics. Will likely be gone for scrap. Appreciate your replies.
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Ideally you need someone who can look and understand the live data readings that a good diagnostics can provide and try to get the fault to occur while doing this to see what changes
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Hi guys, recently bought an audi a4 on 110k miles. since buying the car for 拢2000, i have spent nearly the same in repairs and garage fees. it has not been kind to me. Recently got the car back after having a new timing belt kit, water pump, 2 new camshafts, aux belt - the list goes on. within a week, my EML came on after dropping down a gear and i have loss of power after around 2600 revs, along with a flashing glowplug light. ive been told by a friends "mechanically minded" dad, that the turbo is goosed, but then i have also been told it probably will be the EGR Valve or even a boost pressure sensor! good to mention that there is no smoke on acceleration etc. codes found when plugged in: p0299 05171 confused is not the word. Any help is greatly appreciated as i genuinely think im going to write the car off at this point.
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I think you'll need to get this booked into the main dealer as MMI issues are well documented.
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Which of the new Audi A5 models feature MHEV ?
Steve Q replied to georgepamak's topic in Audi A5 Club
Looking on autotrader of 24 models onwards most are not hybrid and all the 204ps ones aren't hybrid.- 1 reply
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Please keep us posted on how you get on 馃檪
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Yep it will do.
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John. Do you have question or did you join the forum merely to rant?
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