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My boot struts have gone - painful when it falls on you!! 😡 Can they be re-gased or is better to replace? What price should I be looking at. Looked on E-bay & getting anything from £25 - £65!!

Also thanks very much for the link to parts catalog you don’t know how long I spent last night looking for exactly that.

Thanks very much for the detailed reply. You have, rightly so, put the fear into me. I have pretty much all the tools you mention with the exception of compressor and air hammer. I used to tinker with Landrovers so I have some experience with rusty stubborn bolts. The plan in my head was to remove the brake callipers but leave them attached to the line tying them out of the way. Disconnect the harness to head light levelling, disconnect the shocks from either top or bottom, remove rear section of exhaust and lower the entire subframe with everything attached initially using the subframe bolts then onto a trolley jack. From there swap everything over replacing components as required. Then refit in the opposite order. I had scheduled a week due to inevitable bolt from hell but after sleeping on it I think I could using my heart rather than my head. I love the car but maybe it’s time to trade in… I’m in two minds at the moment. If I go through with it I will try and document my pain and keep this thread updated. It might just be too much of a job on my own.

Hi all Wonder if someone can shed some light, I've got the following code, when cleared it comes back. I understand it's down to the air horn under the scuttle panel. I've googled the code all of them say "no communication", the error code I have doesn't so what does the code I have mean? Do I need to replace the air horn or batteries inside the unit? I can't find the fuse.... Thanks Ravs

Hello All, During routine maintenance of oil change, I've noticed some sort of leak/oils what seems to be a connection between engine and gearbox/driveshaft assembly? Pardon my inexperience, I have no knowledge on FWD Audis cars. We are not aware how long it's been there or how fast it's progressing. Car is A3 8V from 2018, 1.5 TSI motor with, presuming, DSG DQ200 gearbox. Mileage is around 145k km I've cleaned that up and after driving the car for 50 km and then letting it rest overnight, here's how it looks on very next day: Local workshop mechanic have a quick glance and he said, the only way he's going to fix it, is by having total gearbox service, which would cost around 1000 GBP including labor, thus we backed off for a moment. Anyone knows what it can be? As far as I'm aware, the 1.5 TSI and DQ200 is a common combination among VAG cars. Thanks in advance.

Hi, My rear offside light cluster has stopped working due to water getting into casing. Seem's near impossible to source the part. Maybe due to age, not sure. Wondering if anyone has any advice? Looking for part number 8P 4 945 258 (or another one that may be a work around) Also part 8P4 9450966 02S as this is the part letting water in. Based in the UK. Have tried Ebay and it appears only one for light cluster is from Germany and over £100.

Hi We are taking our A3 Convertible 2017 (facelift) to France in a few weeks and I am unable to find out if the headlamps auto adjust (as they do on our 2022 A4). I have found some info which suggests that this is dependent on whether they are LED or Xenon with turning lights. However, this info also refers to an adjuster found in the vehicle settings in the MMI. I have checked, and there is nothing in the MMI. A/Will the lights auto adjust? B/ If not, do they need to be adjusted by a dealer, or is it possible to put headlamp deflectors on. If anyone has experience with this, please let me know. Thanks for your help.

Are any of these on the chassis plate pretraining to the paint code? Or does anyone know what the paint code for this 2022 A4

Thank you for the reply, much appreciated.

Failure of the instrument cluster is well known. Fortunately they can be repaired by several companies for a few hundred pounds, which is a fraction of the price of a new cluster from Audi. As the RAC said, you need to remove the cluster and post it to the company for repair, and then refit it on return. ECU Testing is one such company which has a good reputation on this forum.

While I am pleased to hear Stansted Audi are accepting responsibility, it does their reputation no good at all to have sold the car in that condition. It discredits the whole Approved Audi scheme.

I can't get my scanner to finish the scan. It is a VAG305 which says it is compatible with the C6. I can't remember if I used it before on this car or an earlier model. Just before it completes the scan I get "linking error". I have tried all the suggested methods to get round the error but still get the same message.

Top suspension mount is what mechanic thinks too, only thing if get that replaced and it’s not that 🤦🏼‍♂️, it’s strange as only happens when slow left turn, but annoying …, it’s sounds similar like a creaking old door opening

Bit long winded, sorry. I was checking out the fuses under the bonnet, I took a few out to check... Then disaster!!!!! I got in car, tried to fire it up, no dash lights at all, started engine, it cut out after a couple of seconds, then tried to fire up again on its own. Radio now not working also!!! Got the RAC out, he says it the instrument cluster (report from RAC below) and needs to be sent off for repair. Has anyone had this issue before?? All I did was pull fuses and put them back in (all fuses looked fine). And can someone please tell me how much it would cost and how or who fixes these things. RAC REPORT: non start. instrument cluster inop. racscan found various communication fault codes stored. checked fuses and relays, all ok. removed instrument cluster to check connections, all ok. suspect possible internal fault with instrument cluster, requires further diag at garage. Any help would really be appreciated.

Welcome Ewan - nice looking car. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Saj, I would suggest it’s well worth getting your mechanic to check them first - rather than just embarking on changing them when they are serviceable. Possible suspect - top suspension mount?? Kind regards, Gareth.

Or the ‘sender’ - often incorporated in the hub casting.

Welcome Chris, I have removed the location of the main dealership you post about, since they are unlikely to access this site and openly explain their involvement. Kind regards, Gareth.

It’s not a question of trust Martin, it a question of actual values and their significance. Appreciating opinions differ, but I wouldn’t be in any hurry to replace an expensive battery before confirming that your alternator output is indeed what it should be. Getting the battery tested would be a progressive move however - subject to it being fully charged at the point of testing.

Thanks, I’ll have to probably get them done by mechanic .

Personally I’d swop out the battery. On 2017 car that’s now 8 years old and these cars are very picky about voltage drop or you get into all sorts of issues. Go AGM and get it coded to car, clear fault codes and go from there.

Nice car, cracking colour and I rate CrossClimate tyres for grip and are hard wearing if this is going to be mile muncher. The B7 forum on AudiSport channel is very active for specialised stuff.

Jack up the car at the front, on both sides, drop the engine under tray, and you can access bolts to ARB. Wire brush first and spray with penetrating release, buzz the bolts off if you have a power driver. You will also need to remove the drop links too. If the drop links have play at balljoints, replace with Meyle HD. On fitting new bushes, use red rubber grease. Don’t use any other grease.

I had the ball joint replaced mate, but if you think ARB bushes, is it an easy job to replace?

Potentially if the balljoints are goosed. My money is on ARB bushes. Wouldn’t expect top mounts to have gone on 2017 car unless high mileage.