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Looks like Scuba Blue, however, check the build sticker in the boot recess, assuming this has a space saver, you’re looking for LX5Q or similar.

I bought a compressor and air hammer for the dreaded pinch bold on upper arms on front suspension. I’m sure it’s possible to do this rear subframe job without it, although I’d want a Milwaukee 1/2” impact wrench with a swivel head as payback, as you’re on axle stands and not always east to get a breaker bar on it. For exhaust, cut off the centre connection brackets which will be like cheese anyway and fit Mikalor stainless clamps. Basically fit and forget. Yes, you can leave brake calipers and brake lines connected, but you’ll need to support somehow. On 2012, then trade in isn’t what you think it will be. The car is probably worth more to you than what it’s worth financially, if subframe is an advisory. Ultimately this is down to time and resource. If you’ve worked on Land Rovers, this will be a walk in the park. You have eccentric bolts that control camber. Typically these are seized. I’d get new Audi bolts for that and lightly grease with ceramic grease.

Thanks for the quick response. Defo not a bearing its not a constant rubbing noise , it's like a pulsing sound that increases with speed , i can sometimes get a smell of hot metal after a long journey, and wheels are warm but disc far to hot to touch , I didn't strip the calipers as its the rear caliper with an electronic handbrake and don't have the confidence to attempt that , so can't tell if the hub was clean or not , but my guess is probably not cleaned by garage , all too busy for that in my local garage . Whatever about the safety side of it the noise is doing my head in .

More likely to be sticking caliper causing grief. Is the brake disc sitting on a very clean hub? Any corrosion on the hub will manifest itself through the brake disc to the pedal. Also rule out worn wheel bearing. Drive the car for a few miles and coast to a stop. If the disc is getting hot, you’ll smell it and feel the heat. Tell-tale heat spots on the disc will confirm. Worn wheel bearing will have constant audible rumble in the background around 40-50mph, rather that tell-tale wheel wobble if you lift car and hold wheel at 10 to 2 position. You can raise car, grip the coil spring and rotate the wheel. Any vibration could inducate goosed bearing. A full brake dismantle is probably required. Are pads able to move in carrier, etc. Are brake sliders seized? Yes, okay to keep driving, but avoid heavy braking. Depending on the eventual outcome, you may be swapping out pads again.

Hi All I'm having an issue with a pulsing rubbing noise coming from my A6 at low speed and brake pedal slightly pulsing when slowing from 60mph , it's sounds like a rubbing disc, both pads and discs were changed 5000 miles ago , I took off the wheel and spun the wheels and there is a slight rubbing on and off when spinng the wheel , the disc seems to be harder to turn at one point , took it back to the garage who installed them and they said they look OK. My question is could it be a warped disc after 5000 miles or could it be a partly seized caliper ? Also when it's a very slight rubbing noise , is it ok to drive on this for a while if its a warped disc ? Regards

Thanks guys , getting cv joint replaced next week

Have you seen this topic from just a few days ago? https://www.audiownersclub.com/forums/topic/28917-new-tailgate-struts/

My boot struts have gone - painful when it falls on you!! 😡 Can they be re-gased or is better to replace? What price should I be looking at. Looked on E-bay & getting anything from £25 - £65!!

Also thanks very much for the link to parts catalog you don’t know how long I spent last night looking for exactly that.

Thanks very much for the detailed reply. You have, rightly so, put the fear into me. I have pretty much all the tools you mention with the exception of compressor and air hammer. I used to tinker with Landrovers so I have some experience with rusty stubborn bolts. The plan in my head was to remove the brake callipers but leave them attached to the line tying them out of the way. Disconnect the harness to head light levelling, disconnect the shocks from either top or bottom, remove rear section of exhaust and lower the entire subframe with everything attached initially using the subframe bolts then onto a trolley jack. From there swap everything over replacing components as required. Then refit in the opposite order. I had scheduled a week due to inevitable bolt from hell but after sleeping on it I think I could using my heart rather than my head. I love the car but maybe it’s time to trade in… I’m in two minds at the moment. If I go through with it I will try and document my pain and keep this thread updated. It might just be too much of a job on my own.

Hi all Wonder if someone can shed some light, I've got the following code, when cleared it comes back. I understand it's down to the air horn under the scuttle panel. I've googled the code all of them say "no communication", the error code I have doesn't so what does the code I have mean? Do I need to replace the air horn or batteries inside the unit? I can't find the fuse.... Thanks Ravs

Hello All, During routine maintenance of oil change, I've noticed some sort of leak/oils what seems to be a connection between engine and gearbox/driveshaft assembly? Pardon my inexperience, I have no knowledge on FWD Audis cars. We are not aware how long it's been there or how fast it's progressing. Car is A3 8V from 2018, 1.5 TSI motor with, presuming, DSG DQ200 gearbox. Mileage is around 145k km I've cleaned that up and after driving the car for 50 km and then letting it rest overnight, here's how it looks on very next day: Local workshop mechanic have a quick glance and he said, the only way he's going to fix it, is by having total gearbox service, which would cost around 1000 GBP including labor, thus we backed off for a moment. Anyone knows what it can be? As far as I'm aware, the 1.5 TSI and DQ200 is a common combination among VAG cars. Thanks in advance.

Hi, My rear offside light cluster has stopped working due to water getting into casing. Seem's near impossible to source the part. Maybe due to age, not sure. Wondering if anyone has any advice? Looking for part number 8P 4 945 258 (or another one that may be a work around) Also part 8P4 9450966 02S as this is the part letting water in. Based in the UK. Have tried Ebay and it appears only one for light cluster is from Germany and over £100.

Hi We are taking our A3 Convertible 2017 (facelift) to France in a few weeks and I am unable to find out if the headlamps auto adjust (as they do on our 2022 A4). I have found some info which suggests that this is dependent on whether they are LED or Xenon with turning lights. However, this info also refers to an adjuster found in the vehicle settings in the MMI. I have checked, and there is nothing in the MMI. A/Will the lights auto adjust? B/ If not, do they need to be adjusted by a dealer, or is it possible to put headlamp deflectors on. If anyone has experience with this, please let me know. Thanks for your help.

Are any of these on the chassis plate pretraining to the paint code? Or does anyone know what the paint code for this 2022 A4

Thank you for the reply, much appreciated.

Failure of the instrument cluster is well known. Fortunately they can be repaired by several companies for a few hundred pounds, which is a fraction of the price of a new cluster from Audi. As the RAC said, you need to remove the cluster and post it to the company for repair, and then refit it on return. ECU Testing is one such company which has a good reputation on this forum.

While I am pleased to hear Stansted Audi are accepting responsibility, it does their reputation no good at all to have sold the car in that condition. It discredits the whole Approved Audi scheme.

I can't get my scanner to finish the scan. It is a VAG305 which says it is compatible with the C6. I can't remember if I used it before on this car or an earlier model. Just before it completes the scan I get "linking error". I have tried all the suggested methods to get round the error but still get the same message.

Top suspension mount is what mechanic thinks too, only thing if get that replaced and it’s not that 🤦🏼‍♂️, it’s strange as only happens when slow left turn, but annoying …, it’s sounds similar like a creaking old door opening

Bit long winded, sorry. I was checking out the fuses under the bonnet, I took a few out to check... Then disaster!!!!! I got in car, tried to fire it up, no dash lights at all, started engine, it cut out after a couple of seconds, then tried to fire up again on its own. Radio now not working also!!! Got the RAC out, he says it the instrument cluster (report from RAC below) and needs to be sent off for repair. Has anyone had this issue before?? All I did was pull fuses and put them back in (all fuses looked fine). And can someone please tell me how much it would cost and how or who fixes these things. RAC REPORT: non start. instrument cluster inop. racscan found various communication fault codes stored. checked fuses and relays, all ok. removed instrument cluster to check connections, all ok. suspect possible internal fault with instrument cluster, requires further diag at garage. Any help would really be appreciated.

Welcome Ewan - nice looking car. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Saj, I would suggest it’s well worth getting your mechanic to check them first - rather than just embarking on changing them when they are serviceable. Possible suspect - top suspension mount?? Kind regards, Gareth.

Or the ‘sender’ - often incorporated in the hub casting.

Welcome Chris, I have removed the location of the main dealership you post about, since they are unlikely to access this site and openly explain their involvement. Kind regards, Gareth.