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Many thanks for your reply, it's my g/f's car I will have a look in the hand book. Cheers.

Hi everyone, First time poster here. I'm driving a 2021 A5 Sportback and am noticing a sharp plastic creaking sound coming from the glove box area when going over speed bumps or dips in the road. On occasions I also get this noise on the drivers side too. It's noticeably worse when the car is hot and have a feeling it's the piano gloss black plastic that sits above the door handle and also to the right of the steering wheel on the dash. When pushing it, it feels very brittle and makes a plasticy sounding creak which is the noise I think I'm hearing. This is my second car of the same model and both cars did it. Does anyone else have the same issue or know what the fix could be? I've attached some photos of the offending areas. Any advice would be great. Thanks you!

Thanks Gareth. Got some money back from dealer, using the diagnostic report as evidence. Did a dpf cleaner run through the tank, it's not come on since, but there's numerous records on the obd of egr valve. Dealer paying for 40% of valve replacement (plus cooler) as I've had only 2 events since I had it and they should have checked it before sale. I don't want to cause any more problems to engine and emissions system by ignoring it, so going ahead this Wednesday.

Thanks Gareth. Got some money back from dealer, using the diagnostic report as evidence. Did a dpf cleaner run through the tank, it's not come on since, but there's numerous records on the obd of egr valve. Dealer paying for 40% of valve replacement (plus cooler) as I've had only 2 events since I had it and they should have checked it before sale. I don't want to cause any more problems to engine and emissions system by ignoring it, so going ahead this Wednesday.

Thanks Akash, please let us know how you get on.

Do you own this Colin, and do you have a handbook for it? If so, the wheel diameter options should be given there. My feeling is there will be a choice between 17 and 18 and possibly more. If you really want to know what it left the factory with then you will need to get a copy of the build record via. the VIN. Walking into a dealer Parts section may provide you with this. Regards, Gareth.

Also the strange noise from the egr after turning off is still there...even though it's brand new.

Hello everyone, I don't know how far posting on here extends, but I hope it reaches out to someone who can help. I have a 2.0 TDI 138. That was mapped and had egr delete by previous owner 10 years ago. It currently has 126k miles. I've had codes p0103 and p0104 flash up.. I've had car for 3 years serviced it every 4k..never had dpf light come up or any other problems. Then these codes came up.. car still ran fine. When you turn the car off after a minute or so there is a noise from the egr like something is popping..which never happened before these codes.....if car is running for a good hour and up to temp the glow plug light goes off and the eml light clears too.if I go back to it and it's still warm the codes stay off... Next morning though the glow light is flashing and codes back again .and now my dpf flashes up every 4 weeks which never happened before this..... I changed the maf it made no difference. I've done the map sensor the exhaust gas pressure sensor. Done continuity test, smoke test, cleaned throttle body. Changed egr because of that noise that started... even though it's been deleted. Had dpf removed and cleaned. And banged a new battery on it too. Some one please help 😭

Hi everyone, I’m hoping someone here might be able to help me figure out the correct DPF pressure sensor for my car. There seems to be a lot of conflicting information out there. Car details: Model: Audi A5 Sportback Year: 2016 Engine code: CNHA-PVM VIN: WAUZZZ8T1GA054215 Background: The car has had a DPF issue before. In 2021, the previous owner had the DPF pressure sensor replaced and a forced regeneration done. The part installed at that time was 03L 906 051 B. Now, in 2025, I’m getting the same DPF error again (P2002 - Particulate trap bank 1 efficiency below threshold). I started looking for a replacement sensor and here’s what I found: PartsHaus.co.uk recommends: 04L 906 051 C or 04L 906 051 K Caffyns Audi (UK dealership) recommends: 03L 906 051 D The current sensor fitted: 03L 906 051 B As far as I understand, the CNHA engine is part of the EA288 platform and might not be fully compatible with the older “B” sensor. But I’m struggling to understand: Why are multiple different part numbers being recommended for the same engine? Which sensor is actually the correct one for the CNHA engine and why? Could using the wrong sensor affect DPF performance or trigger false regeneration cycles/errors (like P2002)? If anyone has dealt with this or knows how to verify definitively based on the VIN or engine code, I would really appreciate your help. Thanks in advance for your time! Marian

I’m now home and now I have the V5 I was able to check for tax, where the Autotrader say is was £20 per year and when I check another 1.4 UK car it shows £20/30 per year. now when I run this one it’s says it’s £220 per year, so this is because the euro stats and emissions are missing from the V5 🥱 ive gone back to the trader and asked them to get the V5 updated with the correct details as I don’t want to be paying that each year.

Just in... Dear Mr Masser, Thank you for contacting Ofcom recently about in-car DAB reception. I am sorry for the delay in responding to you. The relevant DAB network operators have been looking into recent issues with certain vehicle infotainment systems. Although the issue appears to be related to the behaviour of these receivers in the presence of certain valid signalling (which is compliant with the international technical standards for the DAB system), the operators are exploring options for mitigating the issue in the future. However, as the problem does not appear to be related to a technical fault or non-compliance on the part of the broadcasters, you may want to pass any further comments to the vehicle manufacturer direct. Spectrum Broadcasting Team Riverside House 2a Southwark Bridge Road London SE1 9HA www.ofcom.org.uk

For anyone whose been helping, Thanks inhave just received a photo of the log book, I’ll attached a screen shot of page 2, you can see there no euro status or emissions listed, as I’m lucky enough to live in a ULEZ zone 🥱 when I put the reg in the .gov website it comes back as not required to pay the daily charge, so to me that seems OK 🤔 what are other people’s thoughts. if you need an thanks again

Thanks Dan

Hi, can anyone tell me the correct wheel diameter for the 2013 A3 2.0 diesel. What would the size be from the factory, would it be 17 inch or 18 inch ? ,

Thanks for the response Gareth. May have to seek professional help on this one 👍🏽

Too late, foots already off!

Welcome Akash, I have a similar issue with a non-Audi, and I’m attributing that to a bad wiring contact on the in-tank fuel pump. Not too difficult to sort, depending on your ability. Regards, Gareth.

I’m getting an intermittent notification on the dashboard stating “fuel tank malfunction, contact workshop”. The fuel reading goes down to ZERO and within couple of minutes of keeping the engine on, it goes back to the correct or previous reading of what’s left in the tank. Is anyone aware of a similar issue? Thank you in advance

A new screw is a much less painful solution than cutting your foot off.

I found out why my foot kept catching on the footrest. The footrest screw was missing and the cover had become loose, thus fouling on my trainer.

Sorry for long post. I have a Japanese imported Audi Q3 Quattro 2014 Automatic with mileage of 62,000 and after approx. 1 month I noticed when I first got in car and pulled away there was a type of thud sound coming from rear it does it 3 or 4 times as I drive along then stops. It doesn’t do it again only on start up and only if car been sitting a few hours. I took it for a full service at Audi main dealership including replacing Haldex oil and nothing was found. My husband who is a mechanic for another main dealer has gone over the car and found nothing wrong and in fact both have said the car is in excellent condition. I did wonder if it was gear change thing as I when I start off, I go ridiculously slowly it doesn’t do it almost seems to start when car changes from first to second etc.. but nothing found wrong with gears etc. on examinations. There are no faults on computer of dash so I’m baffled. Don’t really want to take the car back as it is a good car in great condition. Has anyone else experienced this?

Alright, calm down...I'm not trying to make fun of anyone, but just to lighten the mood, as I'm trying to find a solution to my problem.

I am not a betting man but as with my experience, after changing the MAF and the light coming back on, the pressure sensor is the next suspect. I think the MAF is less likely to fail and I wish I had looked at pressure sensor first as was a fraction of the price.

We are a welcoming group here, so please don’t extract the urine Lukas.

Sorry...I believed it was the work location field...changed! Mod. note- previously Brothel.