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Hey there thought I'd give you an update , noise found , not brakes . Turns out it was one of my tires , I could hear it when my wife drove my car , i put on the spare wheel and the noise is gone , I think there's a flat spot on the tire , or else the wheel is buckled but can't see how it buckled as I haven't hit anything. I put on a cheap budget tire to keep me going over Christmas last. Just goes to show cheap tires are so not worth it . Thanks for your help.

I did have the lights set to auto, so the lights were most likely on for a while. Iv been through everything again. Found something that rekoned by holding the accelerator flat for 20 seconds re calibrates or resets the DSG. Tried that to no avail.

Existing ones are original ones 2020 and whilst passed MOT in September with a note they were showing signs perishing the fronts have now been flagged red (following further unrelated work) with 24k miles on vehicle. The rears have 5.3mm of tread whilst the fronts 3.4mm

Fair enough, then it must be something else unless damaged by draining it flat.

I have never known tyres to perish as a result of ageing until well over ten years old. Four years at 10000 miles per year is going to wear them out long before the rubber degrades.

It is pretty new. About a year old.

Forget the voltage of the battery. The right voltage and the ability to start the engine do not mean it is in good condition. Internal faults can interfere with the car's electronics and cause false warning messages and symptoms such as limp mode, loss of radio presets, loss of cruise control etc. So I ask again how old is the battery?

Maybe I haven't explained it well. If the tyres wear, due to mileage and need replacing that's fine. The tyre shop operative said he didnt think that would be the case, though, and they would perish before tread wore out given my milages. It just always bugs me disposing of tyre with decent tread due to perishing.

Hello A ( proper name?) If you are doing 10k/a and expect a set of tyres to still have ‘a decent amount of tread’ after 4 years, then I think you have expectations beyond the reasonable. I just don’t see it, even if you spend on the best. In case it helps:- Based on family experience, if I had a 4x4 type vehicle I would be going with Pirelli Scorpians. I’ve recently fitted a set of Kumho on our largish family saloon. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. A ? - not too fussed on your choice of forum name.

Battery seems fine. Holding 12.5 volts and starts the car good. The old head unit idea sounds promising. Ill give that a go. Thanks for the tip.

Can't believe its taken them 5 months to figure out, still waiting to see if that fixes it.

had same issue with mine. I suspected top mounts. had top mounts, dampers and drop links replaced. been fine for 12 months but now getting the odd creak again. i used Febi Bilstein top mounts and drop links and OEM spec Sachs dampers.

I recently purchased an Android 13 Plug and Play Car Radio, unfortunately although it all connected and operated okay it didn't quite fit the double Din. Has anyone else had this issue or was i just unlucky to get a slightly misfitted unit. I couldn't understand why it wouldn't sit flush as the dimensions were the same. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Good afternoon one and all. I hope we are all well? Last Feb I purchased a Q3 on a 70 plate which im pleased with. However whilst it has original (Hankook) tyres these are now showing signs of needing replacement due to perishing. I have got various prices, and went to get some Bridgestone Alenzas today, and was advised that as my mileage was 8-10K per year with minimal motorways I would potentially be in the same postion in 3-4 years with tyres perishing and needing replacement whilst still a decent amount of tread. I got prices for Kumho, Bridgestone, Hankooks and Yokahamas, but would appreciate some advise on which ones are going to last longest given my mileage / terrain. The sizes are 235/55/R18/100V Thanks in advance. A.

Glad to hear a new thermostat resolved the problem. A shame you were talked into a new water pump before investigating the simplest solution.

Picked the car up yesterday and, touch wood, so far all is well. I gave it a good 30 minute high rev blast to force DPF regen and the heat didn't deviate from optimum at all. Previously it definitely would have overheated from such driving. The radiator fans are also having a far easier time of it which is always good and quieter. We went with a thermostat from the main dealer in the end. Time will tell if this works long term but so far so good.

Hi, does anyone know if a Audi A3 2012 has a clutch cable or is it hydraulic? Thanks

At the risk of stating the obvious, but could it be possible that the replacement screen is faulty? Especially if it is a second hand one? I know this does not happen very often, but maybe it is as simple as that. I have once bought a reconditioned part and it was faulty (although it was then replaced by the shop without any hassle). I'm sure it has happen to others as well. Other option could be the faulty screen on/off button perhaps? Not much help, I know.

I doubt it was the jump start that caused the problem. My guesses are: [1] the head unit you removed was integral to the ECU. Can you refit it to test? [2] the 12 volt battery is dying. How old is it?

Welcome Mike, Have you talked with Audi Customer Services to confirm/refute that? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hi i was told by a dealer that if q5 2016 has full glass sun roof cant tow caravan with it as it might crack the glass in sunroof any heard of this ?

Hey everyone. Im new to the forum and to Audi's in general so i apologise in advance if what im saying has been mentioned before. Iv recently purchased a 2006 8P A3 with a 2.0 FSI petrol. I got it cheap with some jobs needing doing to it. Im located in New Zealand, this car was a japanese import(yes a bit odd). And it came with a japanese head unit that was useless. After i had the car mostly sorted and ready to go i thought id throw a new head unit in. I then found that the japanese head unit had about 20 kilometres of extra wiring added to the original loom. Stupidity i left the ignition on for the hours i spent untangling the mess. And when i finally had it working and went to start the car i got a battery warning light and a very slow crank. Iv only ever driven "older" more basic japanese cars and 4x4's so i instinctively hooked some jump leads on and fired the a3 up. To which i was met with a engine light, power steering light and a esp light. I plugged in my cheap obd2 scanner to find the fault saying "lost communication with tcm" i cleared the code and found that the other 2 lights might just need a drive to sort themselves out. So i went to go for a drive. But, the car is stuck in park. I found the emergency release, and once released the car goes into gear but with a sizeable clunk. Iv spent hours checking every fuse in the engine bay and the dash but nothing was blown. Im totally stumped now. Is it possible that iv done some serious damage to the TCM or could there be another fuse box that i could check? Any help at all would be really appreciated. Auto electricians aren't cheap so im doing my best to try avoid it. Thanks in advance

Thanks. Apparently its Navarra Blue.

Hi all. First time owner of an Audi and looking for a reputable specialist near Heathrow Airport. Cheers all.

I have a 2005 Audi a6 and the mmi screen does not work but everything else does, centre console lights, radio, media etc. I have replaced the screen and it still does not work at all.