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Put it down to experience and move them on. Any work to make them fit is a compromise. On the positive side, if genuine and refurbished, that’s half the battle.

If the boot is open, then the car will not shut down, and so any readings you take will be meaningless. As I said, car can take in excess of 30 mins to go to sleep. Use light insulated cables to set up fly leads off the battery, then close the boot lid. Measure current draw once car has been locked and left for 30 mins. My view is that you would be wise to now engage the services of a local mobile auto electrician, before something goes wrong.

All the sites you mentioned. Also think about Gumtree. Ultimately, I wouldn’t get too snooty about where the interest comes from. You can tell genuine interested parties from tyre kickers. I personally think an RS4 will go to an enthusiast. Insurance will sort the wheat from the chaff so to speak. Even local classifieds in your newspaper. No experience of Motorway, but sold a 15 plate Polo TDI via webuyanycar on 50k miles a couple of years ago and worked for me. The car was meticulously maintained and bodywork was mint, but you’re dealing with a business that employs people with no knowledge of the motor trade. They check an online register for book price and work down. Low mileage and newer cars, then you’re in with a decent shout. Any DIY maintenance, even documented and receipted, then they class as part history. They want main dealer stamped books. My advice, prepare the car well, have an idea if price, be realistic and enter the lion’s den. That’s used car sales for you. Plus ride shotgun with any test drive, with no one behind you. If it’s nonsense on a phone call or email, move on, the reality is this is what it’s like.

Once sorted next month, I'll update on what it was

OK, thanks yes always water under the car after parking

Definitely just sell them and start again

starter motor out all leads disconnected from alternator, still drawing 1 amp when doors closed and just boot open to get to battery. radio fuse removed, I'm thinking it must be the immobiliser? at least i can reinstall starter and reattach alternator leads. something is stealing my amps when at rest

Hello Irvine I was wondering if you still have the Luggage Slide Bar for sale? Regards Andrew

Thank you!

Hi. If you wanted to PM me your details I'd be happy to take a look into this to see if we can get the agreed value sorted without the need for an officinal valuation. Normally most of our agreed values can be completed with just 7 photographs of the vehicle and the completion of a vehicle condition report. Regards, Dan.

By, you are a touchy lot on here as far as moderators go, maybe what they say about Audi owners is true and perhaps a car to miss. I am not too worried about Yoour personal standards, if its good for one forum its good for them all. If you cannot take a joke you shouldn't have joined. I told the salesman it doesn't worry me whether the 0-60 is 8 seconds or 20 seconds, I am retired so in no rush at all.

A musty stink often indicates residual stagnant water in the condenser, caused by the drain being blocked by dirt or leaves. A dribble of water under the car when parked after driving in humid conditions with aircon tells you the drain is open. If there is no water the drain is blocked.

The make of the battery may give a clue as to whether it is a replacement or not.

When you bought this car in June 2024 ( when it was 5 years old), did you obtain a copy of its service history ( should be available from your nearest dealer)? Did you buy it from an Audi dealership, and did you purchase an extended warranty from the seller - which would account for your reference to a 7 year warranty on the alternator? Who told you there was a 7 year warranty on the alternator?

A very good question which I sadly can't answer as I bought the car in Feb of this year.

How old is the battery then Nick?

Good. Disconnecting the alternator has been recommended as a next stage. What is your logic for thinking it’s the leads if the parasitic drain drops when the alternator is disconnected ?

Welcome Parmy, Is there something special about your 14 year old car that leads you to require Agreed Value on the policy? Is this your ‘daily driver’? Are you having a mileage restriction on the car?

I will disconnect the alternator and see if the draw drops off, If it does then it might be the alternator leads. Yes if it does in fact begin being a pain i will get it booked in somewhere and bite the bullet. Also i have nothing after market on the car that has been installed since it was working fine.

Hi all, im after a agreed valuation for insurance purposes, Adrian Flux recommended that I obtain one via the Audi owners club. Firstly have I posted in the correct area for this request? Thanks in advance

OK...it was only on the long hot trip to Cornwall that did it, not done it since on small 30 50 min trips, stays cool and power of the blower is as it should be on each setting...do getvthe odd musty smell which I thought was the gas getting low

don’t worry, i’d read some stuff about redrilling and decided it wasn’t really an option, just wanted to see some thoughts about it just incase. only thing about spacers is the price. and if they cause the wheels to rub/stick out too much i know i won’t be happy. was planning on getting some 8/10mm fronts and 10/12mm rears anyway as they seem most commonly used on a3 8p but i can’t find any adapters in that size. think selling is the best option but i really don’t want to 😅 cheers for the reply cliff.

Thanks for the feedback. I'll try both, but it'll likely have to be after I've got to the holiday location, or possibly when we get back. The scenarios you've suggested don't sound terminal in the short term though.

Please don't even consider re-drilling the wheels. Moving the holes 6mm outwards will cut into the offset web, weakening them considerably. Try the spacers if you must, and accept the risk of fouling the bodywork, but realistically your best option is to sell them.

hi all, i made a post not to long ago about refurbing some wheels, which some may remember, and after thinking about the comments i took them to a professional refurbishers. £240 later, got them back yesterday,they are georgous and i couldn’t wait to get them on my car. turns out they don’t have the same bolt pattern. as much as it’s my fault for not being careful enough, i had asked the guy i bought them off if they were 5x112 and he confirmed they were. they are 5x100. just thought I’d come here to see what my options are, as i’d love them on my car. best option i’ve seen so far would be 5x112 to 5x100 adapters but most of them are 20mm or 15mm in width which i believe would cause me some rubbing. looked at redrilling but that looks quite expensive. also, i know my best option is probably to sell them and start again but i really want these on my car. i know that may not exactly be possible but i want to try before i think about selling any help is greatly appreciated thanks frank